I believe the Factory "Henry Co"? says that their silicone products will adhere to itself or previously applied silicone compounds if cleaned well.? ?I have never tried it.? ?Gayco or Heng Co. is another mfgr of the professional silicone roof products.??

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Thank you for this great tutorial, Tika. I once caulked two of my Dolphin’s windows with silicone. A couple years later it took hours and hours of scraping and solvent to remove it (it had flaked apart in that time). No silicone for me on anything ever again.

Although Henry’s is a good brand, not all their products are appropriate.?I do NOT recommend the one called Tropicool.? The reason is that is it silicone-based and nothing will adhere to it ever again after it begins to deteriorate, which could be in as little as just a few years.? ?

Instead I recommend any version of roof sealing product for metal roofs that is labeled as “elastomeric sealant.”? It flexes like silicon, however more can be added to it without removing it ?when some deterioration develops.? If that is what you already have, then it can be scrubbed clean and more applied. ?

Dicor brand makes a highly-recommended elastomeric roof sealant.? It will take about one gallon per coat, and at least two coats are recommended and three is even better.? Five gallons is too much unless you have a way to store it tightly sealed for a few years until you want to use up the rest.?

I also do not recommend any product labeled as “Rubber Roof Sealant.”? That is specifically for rubber membrane roofs. ?Unless you have a Toyota Odyssey Americana, no other Toyota RVs came with a rubber membrane roof. ?

The important thing is no matter which version of elastomeric sealant that you get, the preparation is extremely important.? If the roof is not scrubbed completely clean, no sealant will stay put and will begin to peel rather soon.

In addition, applying self-leveling caulk. aka "lap sealant," is needed before the roof is “painted.”? ?Dicor brand is recommended, in Ivory rather than white. ?After scrubbing thoroughly, squirt it all around any vents and seams that have cracks. You will need 2-3 tubes.?

Eternabond tape DOES seal well, but it looks somewhat unsightly (kinda like band-aid), because it only comes in bright white.? Another drawback is that it does not work well at all on curves without lots of time-consuming “notching.”

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Instead, porous fiberglass fabric tape is what the professional RV roof sealing shops use around every opening.? After it is applied, it is coated (and therefore infused) with the roof sealing paint that makes it stick with a tight seal. ?

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The professional RV roof sealing companies also sell their products for DIY use, to folks who are in a position to attempt it on their own.? It is worth it to spend more on their roof paint and accompanying products if you are going to keep your RV for a while.? The directions need to be followed carefully for best results.? If you have it sealed in a shop, they’ll give you up to a 10 year warranty. ?

It is hard to visualize all of what you are saying but in general I believe it is agreed among those who have done testing that liquid Silicone topping is the longest lasting and the most flexible most UV resistant of all the different liquid options such as acrylic or EDPM etc.? One popular brand is "HENRY".? ?There are? a few others.? ?However, nothing else will adhere to it when cured except silicone.? ?Sometimes it is a good idea to embed fiberglass tape into a wet coating and then apply another top coat within 24 hrs.
Caulk is sometimes necessary and again silicone is best and again sometimes if there is movement in a joint or seam due to mechanical movement or hot cold fluctuations a fiberglass cloth or tape should be embedded.? ? ? When using? adhesive tape for sealing,? Eternabond I think is regarded as the best and longest lasting.? See the many youtube tests of RV roof repair at Youtube.? ? I dont know what the Eternabond compound is but I think it is Butyl Adhesive. and can be top coated with silicone? coatings like Henry.? ?Lastly, the Silicone coatings are double ( or more ) of the cost of other RV roof coatings..... but if it lasts 2 or 3 times as long,? is cost justified.? ?There are at least several dozen RV roof repair videos at YouTube? ? One that surprised? me was "Gorilla" white roof patch and seal tape.

I bought this dolphin easily 10 years ago. It was in pretty good shape, but there were a few minor leaks in the cabover area.?

As the area of the cabover was prone to leaking, I decided to take a drastic step and removed the window, sealing it with plywood then fiberglassing over it. I also decided that some of the corners, between the wall and roofing metal, had water leaks so along the ply had puffed out from water expansion. There were spots where the corner metal did not fully cover the joint. As we were fiberglassing in the front window panel, I decided to fiberglass over the corners.

Here it is, many years later. I've pulled the tarp off with the intention of getting Dolphin on the road. Of course, I can't get it started, and it's been diagnosed to be a fuel pump problem, but the problem I'm here to ask about is there has been moisture that has gotten into the camper. I'm wondering if it's from where the fiberglass covers the metal corners, as it's impossible to tell whether it's 100% sealed. Though we put 2 coats of Kool Seal on, the Kool seal has come off in spots.

I'm wondering how to seal off roof.?

1. Do I need to remove some of the Kool Seal so anything I apply is on bare metal/fiberglass?

2. Should I get a can of Dicor RP-CRC-1 EPDM Rubber Roof Acrylic Coating Part 2 - White, 1 Gallon off a washed, cleaned roof. Can I se the Part 2 without using the Part 1?

3. Should I just use Dicor 501LSW-1 RV Rubber Roof Sealant Self Leveling Caulk where I think it needs to be applied?

4. Should I just run RV Roof Tape White along the edges where the fiberglass ends on the metal roof?

Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I removed the AC and replaced it with MaxxAir, using new gaskets, so I don't think the leaks come from the open ports. I think it's the Kool Seal.?

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??

I'm planning to install a tachometer, coolant temp gauge, and transmission temp gauge on a 3-gauge left-pillar-mount housing in a 1991 Warrior V6 auto.

I'd like to use GlowShift gauges but the only 2" tachometer I can find is 10,000 RPM max.? For a toyhouse with a redline of around 5500-6000 that probably spends most of its life below 3500 it seems like 10,000 is kind of silly.

Anybody know of a 2" tach with a max range of more like 6000, that would look good with the GlowShift temperature gauges?

Have any of you done a similar installation using the pillar-mount housing and would you mind sending me a few photos (or post them here)?

Thanks...

Eric in NH

Due to accident we lost our motor home, insurance gave us good settlement. ?Here are a few new parts I want to sell. The mirror $185 and 3 valve stems $20 each.

Originally there was a peg that stuck out from the door that went into that rubber bumper to hold the door open. I think a hole in your door makes fixing it imperative.? There are plenty of RV door stops available online. You need to find the right size. Fix the door or you won't have anything to attach the peg side to.?
Linda S

Looks like it worked for them, just fine, for quite a while!! Not bad enough yet to correct.
Looks like there had been a wider protection bumper piece on the wall in the past.
Whatever!!

Is this the original door stop? Or is here a smart solution for??

I've owned this camper since 2008 and it's great for one or two people.? I had just done repairs on the fuel system (new tank and injectors etc) and when I cranked it at my mechanics it made a banging noise - he said it was most likely a valve.? His vision is going and he's not up to digging into it but he did find a buildable core that comes with it.? This has been a great little camper and I hope someone will buy it and fix it.? It's a V6. Here are some pics -?.? It's located south of Tucson.??

p.s.? ?the old booster passed the tests for proper operation
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rz

i just replaced the booster on my 84 dolphin.? old one just didn't seem to work well.? now i have to add a proportioning valve for the rear brakes since i bypassed the load sensing proportioning valve (lspv) because the brakes are so powerful
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rz

One thing that comes to mind for me is a power brake booster failure. I*t causes the brake pedal to be hard to push than if it was strictly manual brakes. However, I am not sure the Nissan had such a booster. My 89 Toyota has such a booster.

Update to my subject line.? Thanks to your posts, I did determine that the brake booster was behaving as you described it should be.? But the brakes did not lock up.? I did drive it to the very small annual Quartzsite Rally (6 rigs) and Steve White took it for a drive, and brakes did not lock up for him either, on pavement and the unpaved RV park grounds.? Steve said "There is something definitely wrong with the rear brakes, take it to a brake place or truck repair.? It may cost me $800 but it will be done for the rest of my life".? I already got turned down by many shops, who refuse to deal with RVs, and those that would, refuse Nissan trucks (claiming too much trouble and hard to work on, but accept Toyota trucks).??

Last week I called my local 5 Yelp star rated Brake Masters.? As soon as I said 3 words to Paul who'd been working there almost 20 years, he knew who I was and my little Toyota RV I'd taken there over 10 years ago.? Sadly Paul said he no longer works on RVs, even one as small as mine, cos "We lose money EVERY time on RVs, because they never seem to get fixed, full of complications.? Tell you the truth I wouldn't do another RV even for my own best friend!!!"

? Last Wed I drove my 1995 Corolla wagon to my second home in San Diego, where I have a much larger problem with my 1982 Toyota Sunrader, which I will post here after I post this.? ?So I won't be able to take Nissan Sunrader to a truck repair place till I get back to AZ maybe in May.? I am going to print out all your diligent speculations and responses to my brake problem on this forum, and take to the willing shop.? Thank you all who posted about my brake problem.? I will report results found.

Meanwhile the other problem with the Nissan is that it won't start on occasion.? When I was 30 miles before reaching Quartzsite, I stopped at a Pilot truck stop to get gas.? After I pumped gas, the Nissan would not start.? It was in the afternoon, and maybe 60 degrees.? Well, long story short I had to spend the night at that gas pump, cos as I posted, "it always starts on another day".?

Next morning wouldn't start by 11 am so I called tow truck to tow me to Quartzsite.? Took another 3 hours to find me a provider willing to tow small RV, who had to drive 70 miles from California to come get me.? I told him "Wait before you hook up, lemmie show you what happens when I try to start it".? ? Well, Murphy's Law, it started immediately!!!? I got out of having to pay the $90 for extra miles over 15 by filing dispute with my credit card company.? Steve White looked into No Start issue too, and he posted update what he did under subj "Nissan D21 hardbody Sunrader won't start."
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Julia - Scottsdale, AZ