Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- Toyota-Campers
- Messages
Search
|
Re: Propane tank gauge reads low doesn't accept propane? AND entry step rusting.
Hi, finally got around to seriously addressing this problem unfortunately I am at square one!? It must be the gauge, it did move a bit lower after a cold trip using more propane than usual.? Called all over town for help...only one business works on propane issues and he is not highly recommended??? Anyway, tried to fill it once more, same thing took a couple shots of propane and quit.? Concensus of opinion...full tank.?? So...should I let the issue solve itself and freeze to death in the future when the tank runs out or try to get a new valve or visit the non recommended junk yard RV guy?? Great fun living in a small community when you have any kind of repair issue on anything! Thank you all for your advice on this dilemma.? HELP!? Diana on the Oregon Coast
On Wednesday, November 1, 2023 at 11:41:42 AM PDT, mlhazel1155 via groups.io <mlhazel1155@...> wrote:
I also had this issue several times but only at gas station buying propane. I have a newer tank and regulater. Went to propane dealer and all was fine. Dealer (I've gone to same one for years) says this happening more frequently as gas station employees don't have proper training. Just a thought. Good luck
|
|
Re: Rear Brakes?
Re: Brake Lockup
The not-well-trained "average" driver is usually better off if the front brakes lock first. Plowing straight ahead with suboptimal braking (best braking is right before the brakes lock up) tends to cause less chaos then locking the rear brakes and having the vehicle fishtail. Hence, vehicle manufactures tended to build some bias towards front lockup first. TIre retailers appy the same logic when you buy only 2 tires. They will insist upon mounting them on the rear wheels to minimize the chance of the rear wheel hydroplaning before the front ones do. But if you're comfortable with your vehicle control skills, then set the brake bias as you see fit.? Buzz L. Phoenix, AZ P.S. I remember a very old Car & Driver article (early 1980s). I believe the title was "Beyond the Limit 101" and it discussed a driving school in Canada where the instructors deliberately taught students to mash the brakes and induce 4-wheel lockup in emergency braking situations. Their philosophy was threshold braking (the best possible without lockup) was difficult to master. Therefore, the most consistent way to get maximum braking in? the real world across a variety of conditions was to mash the brakes, lock the wheels, and control the vehicle accordingly. And that's what they taught their students |
|
Re: Rear Brakes?
Robert keep us posted, I have had the same issues with my brakes since I have owned 18 Nissan Sunrader. Lots of front braking, weak rear. I order all my parts from Rock Auto all fit except the rear brakes shoes. My shoes were to big, I kept them for reference. I'm Still looking for a set of new shoes. My Nissan did not have a proportion valve when I bought it, don't know if it ever came with one. I'm hoping the new shoes will help.?
|
|
Re: Rear Brakes?
Thank you everyone for your ideas, keep them coming! I am sort of leaning towards glazed brake shoes, thus wanting to replace them with something better than stock, or stock parts. Also gutting, or totally replacing the proportioner valve with a tee fitting. New cylinders, hoses, steel brake lines.? Locking up the rear end vs locking up the front end? I will take "Neither for $200 Alex"... I would be fine with locking both ends at the same pedal pressure because my foot can control that situation.? so... Where do I find new Shoes? Cylinders? Hoses?? The DOT 5 fluid I have been using in everything, dirt bikes, motorcycles, cars, trucks. Mainly because I am too lazy to bleed out the system in every vehicle every year, as required where I live in near 100% humidity on the Oregon coast... It's enough to change the oil and filters on all of these rigs... The DOT 5 is a non-water absorbing, low maintenance, once and done solution, plus "It's PURPLE!". My local shop couldn't stop talking about the "Purple Brake Fluid". When you start running dirt bikes through creeks up to the bottom of your gas tank, or worse, dump it in a creek...don't ask... Your engine might not run again until you stand it up on the rear tire and pump the creek water out of the exhaust, but your brakes will still work...one less problem |
|
Re: Rear Brakes?
OK, some basic brake physics (which some of you may already know but it's good to review).
The proportioning valve is there for two reasons: The first is the fluid pressure and volume demands for disc brakes and drum brakes are very different. The second is that the relative requirement for front and rear brakes changes with how much weight load is added towards the rear of the vehicle. The actuator arm you removed from the valve is supposed to sense weight load (more weight = more spring compression = change in relative geometry of the position of the actuator arm = more brake pressure to rear brakes). If, with the arm fully removed, you are still getting insufficient pressure to the rear brakes, it may be that the valve has failed somehow internally. It could also imply you have a restriction in the brake hoses aft of the proportioning valve. Or, it's possible the master cylinder is not delivering full design pressure to the rear brake circuit. The simplest soution may be to remove the proportioining valve and install a manually adjustable one in its place. If you do this, please adjust the valve carefully and test your brakes thoroughly in safe area. A crucial function of the proportioning valve is to deliver best possible braking at the rear while NOT ALLOWING the rear brakes to lock up before the front ones. Being in a hard braking scenario with the rear wheels locked is a nightmare scenario. Finally, I don't know exactly how your ToyHomes brakes are behaving, but we must have realistic expectations. The two things that vehicles with supeior brake performance have in common are A) Low relative mass and B) sticky tires. Neither of those conditions apply to our ToyHomes. Good luck and please let us know how your efforts turn out. Buzz L Phoenix, AZ Former '86 Dolpin 500, '89 HiLux longbed, and '96 Tacoma owner |
|
Re: Rear Brakes?
I've seen some bypass and removal video's but they either wouldn't be enough or over complicated. Most do just what you have already done.?
I keep wondering if the valve itself couldn't just be gutted. Transferring brake pressure with no obstructions. If someone finds out how to do it I'd be interested.? What brand are your new brake shoes. I've had problems with Centric and my mechanic son in law had some too. In my case the shoes for my dually Nissan didn't fit at all. The ones he bought for a 4runner were so out of round they couldn't be arched enough to fit the drum properly. All not good.? Linda S |
|
Re: Rear Brakes?
I used to race SCCA and we tried to use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid as you mentioned and it is great for ultra hi temps and will not absorb any water which could cause corrosion in your brake system,? but the DOT 5 fluid is ever so slightly "compressable" compared to non silicone brake fluids.? This means it will INCREASE the brake pedal spongeiness just a little bit ( somewhat like a few air bubbles in the fluid)? ?so if your brakes are marginal to begin with the silicone fluid will make them a little worse.? ?
|
|
Rear Brakes?
?My rear brakes leave something to be desired. I can lock up the front brakes, skid the front tires, while the rears don't seem to be "Stopping their Weight". I've go the "GO" thing going really well, new tranny, 4:80 positraction rear end, ect. But the STOP thing... needs some git up and STOP! I'm running my air bags pumped up pretty high (75~80 PSI) to put more weight on the front end. My rear shoes are stock about 50% worn. I have blocked the rear proportioning valve to give the rear end? full flow. The front end has new calipers and pads. The whole system has been flushed out and converted to DOT 5 Silicone. So my questions are , are there better options for rear shoes than stock, or are they perhaps glazed? Should I totally remove and re plumb around the proportioning valve? Replace rear cylinders, shoes, replumb around proportioner valve? Something else? Part Numbers? |
|
Sunrader Tail Lights
A few tips. An LED flasher must be used with LED bulbs or they won't flash, they will just stay on. An LED flasher will also flash conventional bulbs so you don't have to change out your front bulbs if you don't want to. To use the cheap LED flasher I listed, make (3) 3" long 14 gauge wires and crimp a female spade to one end and a male spade connector to the other end of each wire. The female ends go onto the flasher, while the male ends go into the flasher socket. Study the new and old flashers to determine which wire goes where. I then taped the male ends into a type of plug which positioned them properly to plug into the socket. I have yet to find the exact Toyota LED flasher that you simply just plug in. I wasted a bunch of time looking for used or new old stock (NOS) Bargeman tail lights, which were hard to come by. And by looking at the slipshod way the originals were wired, I had to ask myself if I really wanted them, even if I found new ones? So I just built these, they kind of remind me of the 1958 Fords, kind of retro cool. Just replace the "Fairlane" with Sunrader Classic... Plexiglass: you need to predrill mounting holes for screwing into the body a little larger than the screws or you run the risk of cracking the plexiglass at the hole. |
|
Sunrader tail lights
This was supposed to be my first post but it got returned undeliverable. Yesterday's posts make more sense with this one before it . I cut and painted two plexiglass rectangular sheets to cover the existing sunrader body holes. Used butyl tape or silicone sealant and screws to attach to the body. But first I wired the four LED trailer lights as follows, all four are wired as running lights. The two outer are blinking turn signals, the inner two are brake lights. You need to replace the stock blinker module with an LED blinker module. It's located in the driver side kick panel. I used three 3" wires each one with a male and female spade connector, to attach the LED flasher to the flasher socket. I used two LED spot lamps mounted under the window and angled slightly outwards for the backup lights, they are great for backing into a dark wooded camp spot . But you can also get these 6" oval lights with backup in each light? |
|
Re: Where to find 21" long Sunrader tail light replacements
After looking at the stock original tailights, even if I could find new in the box originals, I wouldn't want them. They are poorly built with not very good connections to the bulbs or the grounds. It's all "cut wire against a metal slit' connections, really crap. On Mon, Nov 6, 2023 at 3:47?PM Lee Riddle <binrydin@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Where to find 21" long Sunrader tail light replacements
These would probably be the easiest to install On Mon, Nov 6, 2023 at 3:35?PM Lee Riddle <binrydin@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Where to find 21" long Sunrader tail light replacements
Here are a bunch of LED Tai light options On Mon, Nov 6, 2023 at 3:24?PM Lee Riddle <binrydin@...> wrote:
|
roy vannoy
rz
to navigate to use esc to dismiss