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What can I say? For me it popped up a tiny square "blue smoke" container that amplifies radio signals. Maybe try ZK10D. The point was that a quick search will solve the problem more quickly than a complaint posted to an internet group. Links posted by someone often don't work as intended for others for various reasons. But you don't need to fret about the reasons to find what you are looking for.
On Sat, 17 May 2025 22:27:39 -0400 "Mike C. via groups.io" <mg@...> wrote: Really?? This is what comes up: -- 73 -Jim NU0C |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýReally?? This is what comes up: ZK10 Flashlight Box Tool Storage Case For 18650 Battery LED Flashlight 14500 Torch/Lamp Battery Charger Holder 5 Sizes OutdoorMike C. Sand Mtn GA
On 5/17/2025 5:51 PM, Jim Shorney via
groups.io wrote:
Type ZK10 into the search box. On Sat, 17 May 2025 17:22:24 -0400 "Mike C. via groups.io" <mg@...> wrote:That link does NOT work. Mike C. Sand Mtn GA On 5/17/2025 5:02 PM, Andrew Matros via groups.io wrote:They are listed - I doubt you can use the BGA2817 instead. They have a different pinout, and the powering method is not the same either. In the GHz frequency range, any extra wiring can cause unpredictable results, so I would prefer to buy a proper chip and avoid the risk. |
Type ZK10 into the search box.
On Sat, 17 May 2025 17:22:24 -0400 "Mike C. via groups.io" <mg@...> wrote: That link does NOT work.-- 73 -Jim NU0C |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThat link does NOT work. Mike C. Sand Mtn GA
On 5/17/2025 5:02 PM, Andrew Matros via
groups.io wrote:
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Re: Turn off display
Is "Brightness" only on the bigger models? I don't see "Brightness" on the TinySA Basic. Brilliant device. I used to have an HP141T with all the band plugins and then replaced it with a Rigol (up to 1.5Ghz with TG version). I'm using the Basic as a "panadaptor" at 68.33 MHz on an FT-817ND just with a J310 FET buffer in the radio. I might get another for my FT910H. The spectrum is inverted, but you get used to that! |
Re: What accessories do I need for a TinySA Ultra?
A GOOD PRACTICE:? Whenever I pick up the end of a coaxial cable, I always hold a finger across the end "shorting" the center conductor to the backshell before connecting it to anything.? Doesn't matter if the coax is connected to an outside antenna or laying on the bench.? Most of the time I don't get any response.? But occasionally I get just a "bit" (***) of a surprise.? You just might get more of a surprise if the coax is connected to an outside antenna in a windstorm, rain, or snow!?? In either case, I've just saved the piece of equipment I was going to connect the coax to. Dave - W?LEV? On Sat, May 17, 2025 at 6:03?AM Erik Kaashoek via <erik=[email protected]> wrote:
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Dave - W?LEV |
Re: Hunting Spurious Emission at 154 MHz
Some years ago I helped chase down an interferer whose signal was drifting through the input frequency ranges of a bunch of 2-meter ham repeaters in our area.? It came and went, and when present had a particular pulsing pattern.
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The local ARRL OO had managed to find its general location (to within a city block or two) but investigation of the usual suspects (TV-antenna amplifiers that might have started oscillating) hadn't found it.? I brought a spectrum analyzer and "tape measure" Yagi antenna to the party to help the direction-finding.
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We were able to DF the signal to a small portion of an apartment complex.? We spoke politely to the local residents, and one guy near the apparent location offered to let us check his apartment.? The interference was strong, so we asked for permission to start turning off his computer gear.? Bingo!? When we unplugged the Ethernet switch, the noise completely went away.? Turn it back on, and the interference reappeared, with a pulsing pattern which exactly matched the flashing of the "traffic" lights on the switch.
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My best guess is that the noise was a harmonic of the on-board crystal oscillator (which apparently wasn't all that stable) and that some failure of a filtering component in the switch was allowing the harmonic to leak out into the Ethernet and power wiring... "turning the whole house into a giant TV antenna" as the ads used to say.
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I offered to trade the noisy Ethernet switch for a spare I had at home (one with more ports).? The owner agreed, we made the exchange, and the noise was gone for good.
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Another common source for RF noise in these VHF frequency ranges, is a bad cable-TV setup somewhere.? Most cable-TV plants "re-use" over-the-air frequencies for on-cable channels.? If a cable system's wiring isn't "tight" (all segments properly shielded, and either fed to TVs or terminated in 75-ohm dummy loads) this RF can sneak out and radiate over-the-air, causing all sorts of interference.
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Re: What accessories do I need for a TinySA Ultra?
On Fri, May 16, 2025 at 11:04 AM, Adam Coate wrote:
Anyway, what can I do to discharge the voltage built up in my 3 foot SMA cable and HTOOL HT8 log periodic antenna? Grounding rod? Short the SMA central pin with the outside of the SMA plug.
No ground needed.
--
Designer of the tinySA For more info go to |
Re: What accessories do I need for a TinySA Ultra?
Yup.? DaveD KC0WJN On Fri, May 16, 2025 at 22:14 Andrew Matros via <sortamm=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: What accessories do I need for a TinySA Ultra?
Dave, W0LEV, is correct. The metric prefixes are well-defined. See? for a list of them. One of the ones that people screw up is milli (m) vs. mega (M). When mHz (or mhz) is typed instead of MHz, most of us can infer the correct prefix and unit. But in actual scientific and engineering work, accuracy in notation is very important, so we strive to use the correct notation. The difference between milli (m) and mega (M) is *nine* (10E9) orders of magnitude. The unit abbreviation is also screwed up by many people. The unit "Hertz" is properly abbreviated as "Hz" and not "hz" and named after Heinrich Hertz, who was the first physicist to prove the existence of electromagnetic waves after Maxwell predicted them mathematically. We pay tribute to Hertz's pioneering work by capitalizing the abbreviation Hz. Other examples are J for Joule, W for Watt, O for Oersted, T for Telsa (the physicist, not the vehicle), V for volt, etc., etc., all named after the scientists who first discovered or identified the quantity in question. While many users of the tinysa are not engineers by vocation, they have to know or learn the technical principles involved with using spec ans and it behooves us (at least IMHO) to get the notation correct when communicating technical information. There are other units the abbreviations for which people routinely mistype. The difference between "S" (Siemens) and "s" (seconds) comes to mind. One of the basic techniques for solving mathematical equations in scientific work is to perform unit analysis as well as the mathematical calculation. Unit analysis involves ignoring the numbers and looking at the units to make sure that the units agree on both sides of the equation. If one starts with something such as "Volts/meter" on the LH side of the equation and unit analysis results in "meters/second" on the RH side of the calculation, one knows that one has miscalculated. Using the correct abbreviations for the units involved is key to accomplishing that effort. The above is just my take on this stuff after working for 30+ years as an embedded systems design engineer in the IBM computer world of engineering. Worth 25 cents, taking into account inflation. DaveD KC0WJN On Fri, May 16, 2025 at 20:16 Mike C. via <mg=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: What accessories do I need for a TinySA Ultra?
Yes, I have one generator that goes to ?Hz.? But I'm not a typical ham by any means!? If you build yourself a seismometer, you're in the mHz region. Dave - W?LEV On Sat, May 17, 2025 at 12:16?AM Mike C. via <mg=[email protected]> wrote:
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Dave - W?LEV |
Re: What accessories do I need for a TinySA Ultra?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHate to burst your bubble Dave, but the HP-3561A , in their
documentation, refers to the low frequency coverage (micro Hz) as
uHz, and how about kHz. So, yeah, mHz for "mili Hz" works for me
but hey I'm only a retired technician. BTW electron flow is from
(-) negative to (+) positive, but the engineers I worked with
called it "hole flow". ??? I guess they stand on an overhead
bridge and watch the spaces going the opposite way than the cars.
Clip from pdf of HP's 3561A: Just sayin' Mike C. Sand Mtn GA
On 5/16/2025 6:34 PM, W0LEV via
groups.io wrote:
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Re: What accessories do I need for a TinySA Ultra?
Yea, Don, get the newbies to use proper abbreviations!? I've called it out many times, but it seems to fall on deaf ears and clearly never reaches the gray matter.? What really gets my goat is "mhz".? What is mhz?? MilliHertz?? Nothing the typical amateur deals with delves into the milliHertz range!? Further the proper abbreviation for Hertz is Hz, not hz!? Should I give up? Dave - W?LEV On Fri, May 16, 2025 at 5:49?PM Donald S Brant Jr via <dsbrantjr=[email protected]> wrote:
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Dave - W?LEV |
Re: What accessories do I need for a TinySA Ultra?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOne word. MOVE. Mike C. Sand Mtn GA PS Better yet, drop a #10 gauge wire straight out your window, shove it into the ground (bare) then connect the other end, 'CAREFULLY', to your ground lug on the outlet but quickly disconnect it if the building catches fire.
On 5/16/2025 2:04 PM, Adam Coate via
groups.io wrote:
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