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Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
Is there interference around the ISM frequencies: My Toshiba microwave oven interferes with the 2.4 GHz wifi. My manual mentions radio interference when in operation. Mike N2MS On 04/01/2025 4:53 AM EDT madbrain <groups_dot_io@...> wrote:
That's really impractical for the hardwired devices, which are many. Flipping some of the 50 breakers works, but cannot isolate a single device such as a switch or bulb.
I can turn off power to entire lighting circuits, but not to smart switches or individual bulbs.
I'm posting here because I'm hoping there is a tool that can help me with pinpointing the source(s) of the issues. Can tinySA really not help ?
Mike N2MS
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Re: ?Red paused“ information, wenn running tinysa-app on windows
I suppose that the tinySA screen is paused as long as remote access via the software takes place 73 Joe -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----- Von: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] Im Auftrag von Hartmut via groups.io Gesendet: Mittwoch, 2. April 2025 13:37 An: [email protected]Betreff: [tinysa] ?Red paused“ information, wenn running tinysa-app on windows ?Hi Erik, I am running the tinysa-app on windows, everything runs well, but starting the continuous scan in the app, on my tinysa I see the ?red paused“ info in the infobar. What does it mean? The tinysa runs continuously without pause! Have you an idea? Best regards Hartmut Dr. Hartmut Brand Aichtal www.hartmutbrand.de Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Re: ?Red paused“ information, wenn running tinysa-app on windows
The tinySA automatic scanning is stopped, hence the "paused"
Instead, the tinySA-App send scanraw commands, possibly with much higher resolution, and you see the green line of the progress of the scanraw commands
--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to
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Re: Advice on connecting TinySA Ultra to audio amplifier
Yes
--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to
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Re: Advice on connecting TinySA Ultra to audio amplifier
Thank you! ?To be clear, connect a 20 dB attenuator (from Amazon) to the RF output, then a wire (SMA - > BNC with alligator clips or SMA bare wire coaxial cable - also Amazon) red connected to FM antenna and black to chassis ground?
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?Red paused“ information, wenn running tinysa-app on windows
?Hi Erik,
I am running the tinysa-app on windows, everything runs well, but starting the continuous scan in the app, on my tinysa I see the ?red paused“ info in the infobar. What does it mean? The tinysa runs continuously without pause!
Have you an idea?
Best regards
Hartmut
Dr. Hartmut Brand
Aichtal
www.hartmutbrand.de
Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Yes, the TinySA is a spectrum analyzer. The NanoVNA is a network analyzer. The NanoVNA can be used to measure impedances of coax, the rate of loss of coax over a frequency range, SWR. It has a TDR function. It can be used to measure values (resistance and reactance, impedance) of inductors, capacitors, resistors. It can be used to measure the response curves of filters. It can be used to measure the gain and frequency response of preamps, amplifiers, etc. The TinySA is not meant to do any of these things.
The TinySA may give you a glimmer of loss of coax, but it won't be as accurate as the NanoVNA. It certainly doesn't have a TDR function. But it can tell you if a circuit is oscillating, or if it has spurious signals. It can tell if there are outputs at harmonics of an amplifier. It can tell you what RF signals are present in an area. I have a couple microwave circuits that use copper pipe caps as bandpass filters. The circuits are frequency multipliers. The TinySA is very useful to make sure I have the pipe cap filters tuned to the correct harmonic of the input, and used to peak the signal at that frequency.
Zack W9SZ
On Wed, Apr 2, 2025 at 1:26?AM David J Taylor via <davidtaylor= [email protected]> wrote: On 01/04/2025 22:39, kox.jeroen via wrote:
> Hello,
> I have a tinySA Ultra+ and I would like to measure a 50ohm coax cable, anyone
> who can help me out how to do this? I guess you can use the CAL output in
> combination with the RF input? I would like to see how many dB loss I have in
> the range of lets say 470Mhz-600Mhz.
> Thanks!
Sounds more like a job for a NanoVNA!
David
--
SatSignal Software - Quality software for you
Web:
Email: davidtaylor@...
BlueSky: @gm8arv.bsky.social, Twitter: @gm8arv
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Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
As others have rightly pointed out, your system is the very definition of RF Hell, but let me throw in my two cents.
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1) You have put too much faith in wifi. Too many devices, perhaps too many operating on 2.4 GHz, perhaps too much reliance on large bandwidth protocol selection, perhaps overlapping channels. For instance, why so many wifi light bulbs at the same location if you probably do not operate them independently? Use a single wifi switch (Such as Tapo or Meross) to control several standard LED bulbs at once (also cheaper to replace when they die).
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2) Probably too many sources of RFI, such as solar inverters, EV chargers, etc. Not much you can do about that, but a TinySA may indeed help you to identify the main culprits.
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3) Probably lots of intermodulation with so many RF sources mixing with one another on every wire mesh fence, every door hinge, every rusty bolt. Not much you can do about this, but it can definitely raise your background noise level. Again, a TinySA can help you to measure background noise levels. A total blackout measurement could provide you with a useful noise base level to compare against in the different frequency bands, but I do understand that may be easier said than done.
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Start by checking out the quality of your cell connection. If you were based in Europe, I would recommend you load your Android phone with an app called Network Cell Info. Don't know if they support USA frequency bands and protocols, but if they do, absolutely try it. It will tell you the truth about the actual cell service you are getting, carrier promises notwithstanding. If they don't serve your area well, look for something similar. Notice I said Android, because Apple severely restrict the capabilities of this type of app, so do not even bother with an iPhone. Pay special attention to signal levels (which will speak to their coverage) and signal to noise ratios, which will speak (to some degree) to your locally induced interference.
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As for the TinySA, it can do wonders for you in this application. I make my living as a professional engineer, I have one Tektronix top-of-the-line SA and one field level Rohde&Schwartz SA, and still I resort to my two TinySA's most of the time. The catch is that spectrum analyzers are tricky instrument to use effectively. You need to have a solid grasp what they do and how they do it before you can draw conclusions.
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So buy a TinySA, just make sure you buy from an authorized source (I believe it's stateside), and don't scrimp, get the Ultra version if for no other reason than the larger screen. Oh, and do it quick before tariffs hit you, LOL.
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Hope this helps.
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On 01/04/2025 22:39, kox.jeroen via groups.io wrote: Hello,
I have a tinySA Ultra+ and I would like to measure a 50ohm coax cable, anyone
who can help me out how to do this? I guess you can use the CAL output in
combination with the RF input? I would like to see how many dB loss I have in
the range of lets say 470Mhz-600Mhz.
Thanks! Sounds more like a job for a NanoVNA! David -- SatSignal Software - Quality software for you Web: Email: davidtaylor@... BlueSky: @gm8arv.bsky.social, Twitter: @gm8arv
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Re: Advice on connecting TinySA Ultra to audio amplifier
On Tue, Apr 1, 2025 at 11:01 PM, Oden, Jon David wrote:
do I need an attenuator between the Ultra and FM antenna input connectors?
For protection of the tinySA I would recommend to use a 20 dB attenuator directly connected to the tinySA RF SMA and ALWAYS leave it on.
Connect the outside of the attenuator SMA connector to chassis ground and the center pin of the SMA to either one of the FM antenna connectors of to the AM antenna connection.
--
Designer of the tinySA
For more info go to
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Re: Input RF switch fault found on TinySA ultra
WARNING !!!
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The suggested method of getting off the bad chip is very rude and dangerous!
This may be practical with bigger chips, but not with so tiny ones!
Not knowing if traces cross right below pins, I would be extremely careful with using any kind of cutter to cut off the pins. When the pin is cut, the blade usually hits the surface of the PCB and can hurt the trace below.
Also, the cutter bends the pin away from chip-body when it slides in between Chip-body and separated pin. This causes a lot of force to the soldering pad. If this ens in a lost solder pad (we talk here of almost microscopic dimensions(!), you can throw away the PCB.
If using a soldering iron is desired, I recommend bending a copper wire in U-shape, just wide enough to get the Chip-body in between. This way the copper is in direct touch with all chip pins at same time and the copper allows heating up all pins simultaneously (spreads the heat). Now apply so much solder/tin to the top of the chip-body that it reaches both sides of the "U". Wait until solder joins are molten, then pick up the chip and Copper-U with a fine squeezers.
It is wise to cover surrounding area with some tape (the yellow one for higher temperature) to protect it from tin drops.
But - honestly - hot air is definitely the better choice.???? -> I am talking of a hot air reflow workstation, not a hot-air-gun from supermarket.
Am Dienstag, 1. April 2025, 22:34:41 CEST schrieben Sie:
> 1) Remove the chip body by using the cutters to snip off all the leads close
> to the chip body.
> 2) Using the very fine tipped, temperature controlled
> soldering iron heat and remove the remaining leads with the tweezers one at
> a time.
> 3) Carefully remove the remaining old solder on the footprint pads
> with solder wick. 4) Using the Q tips clean the footprint area with
> isopropyl alcohol. 5) Examine the footprint carefully and ensure all the
> pads are isolated from each other. 6) Whilst ensuring the correct chip
> orientation solder in the new replacement chip by just wetting the pads
> using a minimal amount of solder 7) Inspect the install to ensure no
> adjacent pins have been accidentally bridged with solder.
>
> I hope this info is found helpful and good luck!
>
> 73
> Tom
> VA7TA
>
>
>
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Advice on connecting TinySA Ultra to audio amplifier
I would be thankful for any advice on how to connect my TinySA Ultra to the amplifiers I am trying to repair. ?Currently working on Magnavox Chassis # R204 ?Using a RF Signal Generator is relatively new to me so am having trouble understanding how to physically connect the signal generator to the FM and AM input. ?For example, do I need an attenuator between the Ultra and FM antenna input connectors?
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Hello,
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I have a tinySA Ultra+ and I would like to measure a 50ohm coax cable, anyone who can help me out how to do this? I guess you can use the CAL output in combination with the RF input? I would like to see how many dB loss I have in the range of lets say 470Mhz-600Mhz.
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Thanks!
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Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
On Tue, Apr 1, 2025 at 04:12 AM, Dave Daniel wrote:
How much metal is part of your home's costruction? Roof, exterior walls (metallized insulation, wire mesh under stucco, etc.), interior walls (are the studs wood or metal?), etc., etc.
I don't know for sure, but this is built to California earthquake safety standards, and most of the materials are flexible, ie. wood. The studs are wood. The roof is composition asphalt shingle, not metal. There are 70 solar panels as I mentioned, but only the frames are metal, likely light aluminum.
There are some large appliances with lots of metal. The kitchen is on the second floor, near the center of the property. Many of the wireless signals would have to pass through it. There is a 28 year old 48" Monogram fridge that came with the house and is still chugging along. I have been told by a repairman never to replace it, because it uses cheap, easily available analog parts, and the newer digital control units and less reliable with hard to find parts.? There is also a GE double oven.
There is a brick wall in the front of the house which I know interferes strongly with the Wifi signal for the 7 lightbulbs on the terrace. I moved an AP last week which improved the situation a lot, but there is still high packet loss - around 45% according to my smokeping data for the first 2 I just checked. I may need an outdoor AP to resolve this particular issue, unfortunately. It's a bit of a shame to dedicate an AP just for these 7 bulbs, and I don't currently own any outdoor rated model of AP.
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There are 4 chimneys with thick granite walls, large granite countertops on 2 floors, perhaps 1000sq ft of marble tiles on 3rd floor in the back of the house. The home theater downstairs has soundproof walls, but I'm not sure which materials are used for that. One of the two wired Wifi APs is in that room. APs in 2 adjacent rooms are still able to mesh with it with respectable signal strength.
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Re: Help ! Calling Ghostbusters.
On Tue, Apr 1, 2025 at 03:18 AM, G8HUL wrote:
Within radio range of each other.
Could you please be more specific ? Do you mean within radio range on the frequency they are supposed to operate on, at their set transmission power, through all obstacles that might be present ?
If so, it is not the case that all devices are within radio range.
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For example, it takes at least 4 APs to cover the indoors so that all 300 Wifi clients are able connect to Wifi. Many clients will still have low signal strength with just 4 APs. Outdoor clients have very marginal or no signal depending on AP placement. I used 6 APs for many years (5 NanoHD, 1 U6-Lite), but did not have any outdoor clients. I recently added 3 U6-LR. That has improved the coverage a lot. I am able to get all my Wifi devices to connect, but there are intermittent problems still with packet loss and disconnects, for some devices.
Only 2 of the APs are wired and the 7 others are meshed. They use two non-overlapping 80MHz non-DFS channels on the 5 GHz band for the backhaul. I have thought about wiring all the APs, but this will be expensive and unsightly as conduits would need to run outdoors for the Ethernet cables. I don't believe getting rid of the mesh backhaul would change much of anything given that 99% of the clients being 2.4 GHz IoT devices. The bandwidth utilization on the mesh backhaul is extremely low and is not the bottleneck Neither is the latency. However, because the APs are meshed, if I were to cut the power to some circuit breakers for testing purposes, the mesh would be broken and coverage would be reduced, unless all 9 APs were running on battery. Currently, only 2 of them are.
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Distant Z-Wave devices that go through several walls, especially more than 3 walls, also cannot connect directly to the controller. The only way they are able to connect is due to the of Z-Wave where each plug-in or hardwired device acts as a repeater. Again, if I were to cut off circuit breakers, the Z-Wave mesh would be broken, and many devices would be permanently unreachable, as opposed to intermittently.
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Re: Hunting Spurious Emission at 154 MHz
It is KHz it is likely SMPS noise. A signal in the MHz range you describe is more likely leakage from a reference crystal oscillator on the motherboard or a plug in card. On Tue, 01 Apr 2025 19:22:28 -0700 "Peter Finch via groups.io" <peterlewisfinch@...> wrote: I was exploring the VHF High public service bands (150 - 162 MHz) on my tinySA spectrum analyzer using the waterfall display. I noticed a very strong, very narrow, very clean unmodulated FM carrier at exactly 154MHz. I noticed the strength varied as I moved around the house but I could not locate a source on the end of the house with the strongest signal.
So I swapped to a small rubber ducky antenna on the tinySA and headed outside. The emission was clearly coming from a neighbor's house. Neighbor is a great guy so I knocked and we went looking for the source and suspected an older Windows PC desktop. He shut it down and the emission went away. Likely a failed filtering capacitor or choke in the switching power supply.
Don't know if he'll bother to fix or replace it, but I had fun hunting it down. I didn't think of it at the time but I may have been seeing a harmonic and probably should have checked 38.5 MHz using the tinySA MEASURE/HARMONIC tool as that is a more likely frequency from a failing switching power supply. Maybe next time he boots the PC...
Peter -- 73 -Jim NU0C
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Hunting Spurious Emission at 154 MHz
I was exploring the VHF High public service bands (150 - 162 MHz) on my tinySA spectrum analyzer using the waterfall display. I noticed a very strong, very narrow, very clean unmodulated FM carrier at exactly 154MHz. I noticed the strength varied as I moved around the house but I could not locate a source on the end of the house with the strongest signal.
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So I swapped to a small rubber ducky antenna on the tinySA and headed outside. The emission was clearly coming from a neighbor's house. Neighbor is a great guy so I knocked and we went looking for the source and suspected an older Windows PC desktop. He shut it down and the emission went away. Likely a failed filtering capacitor or choke in the switching power supply.
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Don't know if he'll bother to fix or replace it, but I had fun hunting it down. I didn't think of it at the time but I may have been seeing a harmonic and probably should have checked 38.5 MHz using the tinySA MEASURE/HARMONIC tool as that is a more likely frequency from a failing switching power supply. Maybe next time he boots the PC...
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Peter
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Re: Enhancement Requests: File Management Sort By Name and Rename
I received a couple of PMs requesting the PowerShell script. It is attached. It only reorders the .psr files and leaves all other files alone. All the normal cautions apply:
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- Use at your own risk.
- No warranty or support expressed or implied.
- Make a backup of your tinySA sdcard before using this script.
- Edit the script with the location of your sdcard and the temp directory to use.
- If you don't understand the script, or don't know how to edit and run it, you probably shouldn't use it.
- Be sure to only remove and insert the sdcard into tinySA when it is turned off.
- Likewise, safely eject sdcard in Windows before removing it.
Peter
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Re: Input RF switch fault found on TinySA ultra
Greetings,
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I think the use hot air removal in this case, considering all the near by components, could be risky unless you happen to have the proper size hot air tool hood that fits the chip and contains the heat to the very small area. I would consider just nipping the leads off the chip body and then remove the remains of the leads, one at a time, using a fine tipped soldering iron and tweezers.
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As the chip package is of the leaded type with just a few leads as shown in the photo, and is known to be defective (thus of no value) you might consider the following approach using at minimum the following list of special tools and supplies:
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a) Magnification hood with LED headlight illumination that ensures a detailed view of the chip.
b) Miniature diagonal wire cutter plyers.
c) ?Teflon or similar tipped high temperature, low thermal conductivity tweezers.
d) Fine tipped, temperature controlled soldering iron.
e) Very fine solder.
f)? Isopropyl alcohol and Q tips?
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1) Remove the chip body by using the cutters to snip off all the leads close to the chip body.
2) Using the very fine tipped, temperature controlled soldering iron heat and remove the remaining leads with the tweezers one at a time.
3) Carefully remove the remaining old solder on the footprint pads with solder wick.
4) Using the Q tips clean the footprint area with isopropyl alcohol.
5) Examine the footprint carefully and ensure all the pads are isolated from each other.
6) Whilst ensuring the correct chip orientation solder in the new replacement chip by just wetting the pads using a minimal amount of solder
7) Inspect the install to ensure no adjacent pins have been accidentally bridged with solder.
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? ? ? I hope this info is found helpful and good luck!
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73
Tom
VA7TA
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Re: Defect Report: Restore Multi-Band from SD Does Not Restore RBW
Just noting this defect is still open.
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Also noting that the RBW is saved so if you select RBW on the left info section of the display it will show the correct RBW checked but won't actually be using it.
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Workaround 1 is just reselect the checked RBW.
Workaround 2 is disable and reenable multi-band and the correct RBW will be applied.
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Peter
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Hartmut
David J Taylor
Jim Shorney