On Wed, Apr 2, 2025 at 10:43 AM, <flynth@...> wrote:
If you have hot air youjust tape everything surrounding the part with kapton, blast it and grab with tweezers
I prefer to use a more subtle approach, I turn my hot air station to near minimum airflow and apply background heat so that the PCBA is at perhaps 80C, too hot to touch.? I don't bother with Kapton and haven't blown a part away in years, surface tension is surprisingly strong.
Apply a sparing drop of flux to the part, ChipKwik if using.? Use a small air nozzle and hold it just above the part.? Turn it up HOT.? When you see the part melt, pick it up with your #7SA tweezers and discard it.?
Be patient, if you try to rush and lift the part prematurely you risk lifting a pad (or more), you will see the solder surface distinctly change when it liquifies.
??
Binocular magnification and BRIGHT illumination help a lot, high mag not so much, I usually end up at ~8X.?
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A client spent big $$ on a USB 'scope/display combo; it was useless compared to my Antscope from Amazon:
Monocular vision = no depth perception
Poor dynamic range, pitch black shadows, burned-out highlights
Poor resolution
Short focal distance = crowded workspace
?
Way better and cheaper:??
Similar to this, mine came with a 0.5X objective lens to double the working distance
Wow, twice what I paid, but I'd still do it.
I also added the articulating arm, it now covers most of my workbench. ?
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73, Don N2VGU
Donald S Brant Jr