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Tuning Rod for Wacom WP-643

 

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Good evening,

I was recently asked to tune a Wacom WP-643 duplexer.? I was having a hard time getting the pass set on one side; I couldn’t seem to manage to tighten the locknut without the tuning rod turning.? None of the other cavities gave me any unusual problems.?

I finally figured out that the Invar tuning rod had been bent slightly and it was making the threads bind.? I finally managed to get it tightened to the sweet spot and all is right with the world.?

But it got me wondering about replacement rods.? I know Wacom is gone, but has anyone sourced tuning rods for Wacom duplexers?? I assume the rod attaches to a plunger similar to the DB4060 (I’ve never had a Wacom duplexer apart), so even if a new rod was available, the old rod would have to unscrew down through the top of the cavity rather than out the top.? That would probably be difficult given the bend in the rod, but I assume I could screw the rod up beyond the bend, cut it, and then screw it back down and out the bottom.

At any rate, this is mostly an academic exercise since I did manage to get the pass set properly.

Thanks for your thoughts.

73,

Mike

WM4B
 

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Mike,

Have you considered straightening the rod?? I've successfully done it several times on other threaded rod duplexers.

Kevin W3KKC


On 4/19/2025 7:31 PM, Mike Besemer - WM4B via groups.io wrote:

Good evening,

I was recently asked to tune a Wacom WP-643 duplexer.? I was having a hard time getting the pass set on one side; I couldn’t seem to manage to tighten the locknut without the tuning rod turning.? None of the other cavities gave me any unusual problems.?

I finally figured out that the Invar tuning rod had been bent slightly and it was making the threads bind.? I finally managed to get it tightened to the sweet spot and all is right with the world.?

But it got me wondering about replacement rods.? I know Wacom is gone, but has anyone sourced tuning rods for Wacom duplexers?? I assume the rod attaches to a plunger similar to the DB4060 (I’ve never had a Wacom duplexer apart), so even if a new rod was available, the old rod would have to unscrew down through the top of the cavity rather than out the top.? That would probably be difficult given the bend in the rod, but I assume I could screw the rod up beyond the bend, cut it, and then screw it back down and out the bottom.

At any rate, this is mostly an academic exercise since I did manage to get the pass set properly.

Thanks for your thoughts.

73,

Mike

WM4B
 

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I did, but then decided that discretion was the better part of valor and resisted the temptation.? I did put some lateral pressure on it and it just didn’t feel right; probably because it’s Invar.

?

If I ever get it back in the shop again, I’ll give it a try.

?

Thanks

?

Mike

WM4B

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Kevin Custer
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2025 8:18 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [repeater-builder] Tuning Rod for Wacom WP-643

?

Mike,

Have you considered straightening the rod?? I've successfully done it several times on other threaded rod duplexers.

Kevin W3KKC


On 4/19/2025 7:31 PM, Mike Besemer - WM4B via groups.io wrote:

Good evening,

I was recently asked to tune a Wacom WP-643 duplexer.? I was having a hard time getting the pass set on one side; I couldn’t seem to manage to tighten the locknut without the tuning rod turning.? None of the other cavities gave me any unusual problems.?

I finally figured out that the Invar tuning rod had been bent slightly and it was making the threads bind.? I finally managed to get it tightened to the sweet spot and all is right with the world.?

But it got me wondering about replacement rods.? I know Wacom is gone, but has anyone sourced tuning rods for Wacom duplexers?? I assume the rod attaches to a plunger similar to the DB4060 (I’ve never had a Wacom duplexer apart), so even if a new rod was available, the old rod would have to unscrew down through the top of the cavity rather than out the top.? That would probably be difficult given the bend in the rod, but I assume I could screw the rod up beyond the bend, cut it, and then screw it back down and out the bottom.

At any rate, this is mostly an academic exercise since I did manage to get the pass set properly.

Thanks for your thoughts.

73,

Mike

WM4B

?
 

I did, but then decided that discretion was the better part of valor and resisted the temptation.
I did put some lateral pressure on it and it just didn’t feel right; probably because it’s Invar.
If I ever get it back in the shop again, I’ll give it a try.
I've bent them back when I've had no other choice and, probably 8 times out of 10, was successful. I'd suggest that after you bend it back into what seems to be right that you run the rod out (not in) and put some Never-Seez on the threads in the area where it had been bent just in case it starts to bind on the way back in; you'll have a better chance of backing it out for further tweaking without it galling up.

--- Jeff WN3A
 

Thanks Jeff... that sounds like really good advice.

Mike
WM4B

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jeff DePolo WN3A via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2025 9:42 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [repeater-builder] Tuning Rod for Wacom WP-643

I did, but then decided that discretion was the better part of valor and resisted the temptation.
I did put some lateral pressure on it and it just didn’t feel right; probably because it’s Invar.
If I ever get it back in the shop again, I’ll give it a try.
I've bent them back when I've had no other choice and, probably 8 times out of 10, was successful. I'd suggest that after you bend it back into what seems to be right that you run the rod out (not in) and put some Never-Seez on the threads in the area where it had been bent just in case it starts to bind on the way back in; you'll have a better chance of backing it out for further tweaking without it galling up.

--- Jeff WN3A
 

In reference to the Never-Seez recommendation, I have two needs, Invar threaded duplexer tuning rods, and stainless steel on stainless steel nut/bolts for tower leg clamps on towers.? I have used some Permatex Antiseize from NAPA in the past for both.
?
Amazon shows 20 different versions of Never-Seez.? Looking at just versions that come with a brush for applying, I see:
?

1.? NGBT-8 Silver Gray Nuclear Grade Nickel Special Anti-Seize

?

2.? Never-Seez NSBT-8 Silver Gray Regular Grade Anti-Seize

?

3.? Never-Seez NSBT-8N Silver Pure Nickel Special Anti-Seize

?

4.? Never-Seez NMCBT-8 Black Gray Mariners Choice Anti-Seize

?

5.? Never-Seez NSBT-16N Silver Pure Nickel Special Anti-Seize

?

6.? Never-Seez 535-30803832 8 oz Mariners Choice Anti-Seize, Black & Gray

?

7.? Never-Seez NSSBT-16 Silver 16 High-Temperature Stainless Anti-Seize
***
Pretty sure I don't need a 2000+ degree material.? But I have no idea what Nuclear, Mariners Choice, Pure Nickel, or Regular, means.
Just want to know which of the 7 items above is best and if I need to use a different material for tuning rods vs. stainless on stainless bolts/nuts.
?
Dan K5FVL
 

I would definitely look for a brand name like Loctite,
It's never failed me - I liked the copper base,
too many copy cats these days ready to take your money, Dan.

Tell the man behind the counter what the application is for,
Stainless steel hardware will gall. Kerosene was an old trick.

73 John

On 20/04/2025 12:33 pm, Dan Schroeder via groups.io wrote:
In reference to the Never-Seez recommendation, I have two needs, Invar threaded duplexer tuning rods, and stainless steel on stainless steel nut/bolts for tower leg clamps on towers.? I have used some Permatex Antiseize from NAPA in the past for both.
Amazon shows 20 different versions of Never-Seez.? Looking at just versions that come with a brush for applying, I see:
1.NGBT-8 Silver Gray Nuclear Grade Nickel Special Anti-Seize
2.Never-Seez NSBT-8 Silver Gray Regular Grade Anti-Seize
3.Never-Seez NSBT-8N Silver Pure Nickel Special Anti-Seize
4.Never-Seez NMCBT-8 Black Gray Mariners Choice Anti-Seize
5.Never-Seez NSBT-16N Silver Pure Nickel Special Anti-Seize
6.Never-Seez 535-30803832 8 oz Mariners Choice Anti-Seize, Black & Gray
7.Never-Seez NSSBT-16 Silver 16 High-Temperature Stainless Anti-Seize
***
Pretty sure I don't need a 2000+ degree material.? But I have no idea what Nuclear, Mariners Choice, Pure Nickel, or Regular, means.
Just want to know which of the 7 items above is best and if I need to use a different material for tuning rods vs. stainless on stainless bolts/nuts.
Dan K5FVL
 

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I prefer copper on stainless parts, but aluminum is OK too.? The thing to remember is you want to use an anti-size with particles that are NOT the same as either of the surfaces that are in contact.? Heat resistance is the other variable, but not applicable here.

?

?

??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? --- Jeff WN3A

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Dan Schroeder via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2025 10:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [repeater-builder] Tuning Rod for Wacom WP-643

?

In reference to the Never-Seez recommendation, I have two needs, Invar threaded duplexer tuning rods, and stainless steel on stainless steel nut/bolts for tower leg clamps on towers.? I have used some Permatex Antiseize from NAPA in the past for both.

?

Amazon shows 20 different versions of Never-Seez.? Looking at just versions that come with a brush for applying, I see:

?

1.? NGBT-8 Silver Gray Nuclear Grade Nickel Special Anti-Seize

?

2.? Never-Seez NSBT-8 Silver Gray Regular Grade Anti-Seize

?

3.? Never-Seez NSBT-8N Silver Pure Nickel Special Anti-Seize

?

4.? Never-Seez NMCBT-8 Black Gray Mariners Choice Anti-Seize

?

5.? Never-Seez NSBT-16N Silver Pure Nickel Special Anti-Seize

?

6.? Never-Seez 535-30803832 8 oz Mariners Choice Anti-Seize, Black & Gray

?

7.? Never-Seez NSSBT-16 Silver 16 High-Temperature Stainless Anti-Seize

***

Pretty sure I don't need a 2000+ degree material.? But I have no idea what Nuclear, Mariners Choice, Pure Nickel, or Regular, means.

Just want to know which of the 7 items above is best and if I need to use a different material for tuning rods vs. stainless on stainless bolts/nuts.

?

Dan K5FVL

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