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Re: Desense is driving me crazy

 

?I often battle insomnia. Tonight at 3AM I decided to look at some photos I took prior to taking the loops out of the duplexer to clean with alcohol, along with the tee connectors. I take photos more for reference of placement of things really. It's a trick I've learned over the years because I've been taking things apart since I was a little kid. Works well for long term auto restoration too.
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I was already cleaning the tee connectors prior to taking the loops out. So when I did take them out they went straight to cleaning. Instead of examining them prior. Mainly because I figured since I seen some silver flakes on the tee connectors, that I'd just do all the connectors to the duplexer for good measure. Afterwards I was looking at them with the microscope to see how they looked, they looked good then.?
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?Ok so back to the pre removal photos. I started looking at my photos to see if there was any correlation to loop placement. By looking at the tuning capacitor relative to mounting screw locations. Because there's no degree marks on these for any reference points. Then as I zoomed way in I started noticing there was some heavy silver flakes down inside some of the loop N connectors. So there was a bit of an ah ha moment there. When the loops are in the cans, inside the cabinet. I can't see down inside those connectors that easily. The cabinet doesn't allow my head to be inside there to look down. Plus getting older I need glasses to see far away & close up now. But thankfully the camera was able to capture this for me to see & realize.?
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Im going to get some sleep hopefully. Then finish working on this more later today. Set the loops for .5db IL per cavity & line everything up again. Hopefully this solves the noise issue in the duplexer. Then I can start focusing on what's causing noise on the tower exactly. Wish me luck.?
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Here's a picture of what I seeing down in the loop N connectors. It's been zoomed in. Hopefully it shows the flakes clearly & the picture doesn't get too degraded in post.


DB-4060-WOC-C For sale for sale

 

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Decibel Product DB-4060-WOC-C for sale.? It has not been modified for 144-148 MHz use.? Pulled during system upgrade, very nice condition.? I don¡¯t have the need or the time to modify them for amateur use.

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$500 plus shipping, from 89436

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TNX Jim

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Sent from


Virus-free.


Re: DB4060 Tuning Rod Replating

 

There must be dozens of electroplating businesses in USA.
My brother in Perth WA and other vintage vehicle enthusiasts
ship vintage motorbike components over the Atlantic for such work.
Well they were a few years ago, Uncle Don may have put the screws on that lately.

Can they offer quotes, (if they will quote on unsighted work)
do they have pictures of their finished work.
Can you remove the plunger rod from the plunger, Joe?
That alone will save on freight..

Just my 2 bob
John VK4JKL

On 25/05/2025 12:08 pm, Joseph Mancino via groups.io wrote:
Has anyone had the plungers in the DB4060/4062 replated with silver before? I have a set that needs new plating and am in the process of getting a quote with a local company to get them done. If it's not too bad, I will probably do it. However, I'm unsure of the thickness of the plating. I'm thinking too little will cause the contacting fingers to dig through the plating into the brass, but too thick would make the surface too soft because of thick silver deposit and cause problems too. I was able to measure a piece that flaked off with a micrometer at half a thousandth of an inch.
I'm also at the point where I don't want to invest anymore into these cans and just put the money towards a new set. What to do lol.
Joe


Desense is driving me crazy

 

Desense is driving me crazy. Might be a short ride there. ?
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Warning: This will be long & descriptive. In hopes I cover everything for getting good advice in return.
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?Last year I bought a new Yaesu DR-2X & a new Hustler G7-144. I'm using some older Andrew's 1/2 heliax. The duplexer was purchased from a wholesaler as new old stock. It's a Sinclair Q201GC 6 cavity (7" diameter) set in it's own cabinet. The data sheet says it left Sinclair in 2015. Originally tuned to 170Mhz.?
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?This makes the 4th repeater I've messed with in the 26+ yrs of being a ham. I've done lots of tower & antenna work over the years. I even used to work for a tower company many years ago climbing. One thing I never messed with was tuning duplexers. So this time I wanted to do everything myself. One reason was I didn't want to haul this large duplexer many miles away to get it tuned. I didn't have a safe way to haul it sitting upright (vertical).?
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So I decided it was time to invest in some test equipment. For tuning & other ham radio projects. Originally I already had a Lite VNA 64. I used it to check the duplexer cavities individually to see if they will tune down from 170MHz to 145MHz. They looked like they would. So I decided to move forward with this set. Now, as I mentioned, I was told these were "new old stock". They look great! Still shiny. They had a cardboard box cover over the cabinet for shipping. Plus as stated the data sheet from Sinclair inside. One thing that strikes me as odd, was all 6 of the brass dust covers for the trim capacitors were missing. I'm to understand those are important to keep the caps clean.?
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? I've gotten some great help from people here on repeater builder to get started. I may have even gotten on some nerves asking so many questions lol.?
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It was mentioned I will need to make a new harness for the duplexer to get it down to 145.330. I was able to get information on the correct lengths for the cables. Using RG214U & silver N hex crimp-on connectors. I made each cable 13.5 inches long. I used silver plated amphenol tees. I had to buy the tees used. As they were impossible to find new at a reasonable price. With the cable, connectors & tools I had nearly $300 dollars tied up in just materials to make the harness.?
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?I needed some more test equipment to begin alignment of the duplexer. Keep in mind this is my first time tuning a duplexer & getting equipment for it. I was originally going to invest in a used VNA like HP, Keysight etc. But the turn off there was age of equipment vs cost. Then being worried about buying old equipment that might be a problem later with failing parts due to age of components. Then finding parts to repair them. Plus most everything that was suggested still only had about 100db of dynamic range. Which wasn't going to be enough for this duplexer. I started looking around at other equipment that's newer. Plus more in my budget.?
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?I decided to buy a LibreVNA. It's advised as 90 to 100db of dynamic range & seemed to be better than my Lite VNA 64. It still wasn't going to get me past 100db for final tuning. But it was great for all the individual cavity tuning. To final tune I decided to buy a Siglent SSA3021X + spectrum analyzer with tracking generator. I used this stuff to tune the duplexer. It appeared to have about 120db of rejection.?
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?When I hooked everything up & started testing out the repeater it all worked OK. But I'm not one to just stop there. So I decided to start testing for desense. I also have a TinySA ultra. This has a spectrum analyzer plus a signal generator. I'd generate a low power signal with that & listen to the DR-2X receiver speaker by ear. Get the signal down low & listen. Then engage the transmitter & listen for any changes to how the receiver sounds via the speaker. Sure enough I was hearing changes aka desense.?
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I tried this with the repeater hooked to the coax & antenna. Then I'd try it into a 250 watt TX/RX dummy load. It was worse with the coax & antenna hooked up. But it was also still slightly present into the dummy load that bypassed the hardline & antenna. Now for the coax & antenna I suspect the Hustler G7 could be making noise. Since there's so many assembly parts to it. Plus that hardline is older & may have some water damage. But for repeater & duplexer into the dummy load. I totally suspect it's likey something I've done. Or there's dust in those tuning capacitors that didn't have dust covers on them. I'm leaning towards my own fault somewhere. I mean it's my first time tuning a duplexer. It's 6 cavities (4 would be easier). It's my first time making a duplexer harness. Plus my first time using test equipment for this. I do like to learn & do things though. I've always been a bit of a techy geek my whole life.?
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Now since having these issues I've tried to get some better tools to go with the equipment I bought. I invested in several 3 & 6ft RF test set cables. I bought some used but good shape N calibration sets. Agilent Keysight male set & Anritsu female N set. Plus some older amphenol silver barrels (male & female) for through calibrations. I bought new old stock of Narda male & female N 50 ohm loads. As well as Narda shorts & opens. Plus some Midwest microwave 50 ohm loads that were new in package. I picked up various name brand antennuators as well. I even decided to buy a Measall KC901J dual port VNA. Just because I wasn't liking the LibreVNA & having to be tied to a PC to use it.
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?I've retuned this duplexer several times now. Just to try different insertion loss settings with the loops. From .4 to .7db per cavity. Nothing seems to totally remedy the issue completely. As well as trying out different devices to tune it with. I even tried using older tuning methods I've read & have been told about. Where you use a low power signal & a receiver on the other end. I've even tried using two devices when tuning. To check one vs another in a sense. This was actually beneficial because I've noticed the LibreVNA can often give me different readings vs the Spectrum analyzer & KC901J VNA. Then later on I was reading some other people having issues with the accuracy of their LibreVNAs. So for now I just use my KC901J & the Siglent SSA3021X + for making adjustments.?
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I've tried examining the cables I made for the harness. I'd key up & get a low signal into the receiver & engage the TX to hear the desense in the receiver speaker. Then wiggle each cable on the harness. To see if I hear any changes to indicate one of the cables was being problematic. Nothing there made any difference. I have also checked the cables for electrical length & distance to fault. They all came up the exact same length 13.5 inches & didn't show any faults there.?
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?This weekend I took the loops out & looked at them to see if anything looks odd. I also cleaned all the tee connectors with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Plus examined them with a microscope. To see if there were any issues with the insulators or anything that looked odd. I haven't put the duplexer back together yet. It's gotten to the point I don't enjoy messing with it almost. But I don't like being beat. So I won't give up. Everything looks OK inside the cans the best I can tell. I've asked others to give an opinion on those pictures for 2nd opinions.?
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In my mind I keep going back to 3 possibilities. Its either the harness I made. Or it's a problem with the dust caps not being there & dust has gotten into the tuning caps. When I'm adjusting the rejects it can be a pain. They will jump around a bit. Sometimes you'll be turning it to the left & it suddenly jumps right instead, then goes left but jumps ahead after more turning. But that can make it hard to get the notch to be exactly where it needs to be. I've read that can be dirty caps. Where dust inside is making contact with areas of the blades in the caps. Im to understand that dirty caps can cause desense issues from things I've read. Or a 3rd idea I had that's probably unlikely but would explain somethings. This duplexer had a problem. A tech took all the dust caps off to make adjustments. Found that things were not simply solved. Didn't put the dust caps back on. Then they got another identical duplexer & put the box it came in on this set & eventually it got sold to a wholesaler & I got it. I know..that version likey isn't true. But your mind wanders when you can't seem to make sense of things. It's almost amusing what my imagination comes up with.?
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As for the harness I made. I've never used crimp-ons before. I had to buy the tools for it. I looked around for some stuff that had good ratings/reviews. I watched several videos before hand to learn what to do & what not to do. I even used heat shrink that has a glue residue inside, that helps bond things together. The center pins are soldered on as well. Maybe it's because I bought used Tees??
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?Aside from all that I've even went a little further. I have read that the internal RF cables in Yaesu repeaters are marginal. So I replaced them with RG400 with silver plated connectors. I am also using RG400 from the repeater to the duplexer. I have also tried using RG214U from the repeater to the duplexer. I have purchased a RFI surge outlet for everything to plug into. I also tried using a battery powered inverter in one test to totally remove the house electrical from the equation. Just doing other processes of elimination.?
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The only thing I haven't done yet is take these cans completely apart. I can't see the bottom of the plunger tubes & the fingers down there just looking in from the top loop holes. I didn't think it to be nessesary at first. But when you get to your wits end of trying to figure & rule things out on your own, you might find yourself doing things you previously wouldn't choose too.?
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?Ideas & constructive criticism welcome. Hopefully I've covered most everything that would be helpful.??


Re: DB4060 Tuning Rod Replating

 

I would probably do something like that, but the shedding is bad enough to where it's peeling off in big chunks. I'm certain that moisture and corrosion has made its way between the brass and the silver. It just flakes off if I touch it.?


Re: DB4060 Tuning Rod Replating

 

It's probably not what you're hoping for but I've used Cool-Amp to touch up silver plating on cans and finger stock.
https://www.cool-amp.com/

Good luck,
Brad KB9BPF
On Saturday, May 24, 2025 at 09:08:43 PM CDT, Joseph Mancino via groups.io <joseph3502@...> wrote:


Has anyone had the plungers in the DB4060/4062 replated with silver before? I have a set that needs new plating and am in the process of getting a quote with a local company to get them done. If it's not too bad, I will probably do it. However, I'm unsure of the thickness of the plating. I'm thinking too little will cause the contacting fingers to dig through the plating into the brass, but too thick would make the surface too soft because of thick silver deposit and cause problems too. I was able to measure a piece that flaked off with a micrometer at half a thousandth of an inch.?
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I'm also at the point where I don't want to invest anymore into these cans and just put the money towards a new set. What to do lol.?
?
Joe


Re: DB4060 Tuning Rod Replating

 

Sounded too good to be true haha. I should expect to probably pay around 50-75 per rod then 2019-2020 prices). Mine are only 2x8" cylinders. Perhaps $100 per rod would be about right for mine.?


Re: DB4060 Tuning Rod Replating

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Nope, $100 for one.




On 5/24/2025 10:45 PM, Joseph Mancino via groups.io wrote:

Hell, at that price, I'd do it in a heart beat. $100 for all 6 movable plungers?


Re: DB4060 Tuning Rod Replating

 

Hell, at that price, I'd do it in a heart beat. $100 for all 6 movable plungers?


Re: DB4060 Tuning Rod Replating

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I had some silver plating done probably 4-5 years ago for a 6-meter can. The fixed portion of the plunger had about an inch at each end plated, and the movable plunger was completely plated (about 16"-18" as I recall). They offered two thicknesses. After discussion, the thicker plating was chosen. It cost $100.00. Don't know if this was a good or bad price.

Chuck
WB2EDV




On 5/24/2025 10:08 PM, Joseph Mancino via groups.io wrote:

Has anyone had the plungers in the DB4060/4062 replated with silver before? I have a set that needs new plating and am in the process of getting a quote with a local company to get them done. If it's not too bad, I will probably do it. However, I'm unsure of the thickness of the plating. I'm thinking too little will cause the contacting fingers to dig through the plating into the brass, but too thick would make the surface too soft because of thick silver deposit and cause problems too. I was able to measure a piece that flaked off with a micrometer at half a thousandth of an inch.?
?
I'm also at the point where I don't want to invest anymore into these cans and just put the money towards a new set. What to do lol.?
?
Joe


DB4060 Tuning Rod Replating

 

Has anyone had the plungers in the DB4060/4062 replated with silver before? I have a set that needs new plating and am in the process of getting a quote with a local company to get them done. If it's not too bad, I will probably do it. However, I'm unsure of the thickness of the plating. I'm thinking too little will cause the contacting fingers to dig through the plating into the brass, but too thick would make the surface too soft because of thick silver deposit and cause problems too. I was able to measure a piece that flaked off with a micrometer at half a thousandth of an inch.?
?
I'm also at the point where I don't want to invest anymore into these cans and just put the money towards a new set. What to do lol.?
?
Joe


Re: upgrade cdm 750 dash to 1250 remote

 

Yes, this is possible. Chirp + waris.py extension will allow you to make the edits for the control head swap. After you do it, you'll need to edit and re-write the codeplug because fields like channel names are not present in the CDM750 codeplug. At first it appears the change doesn't fully work because the codeplug doesn't have all of the fields programmed. You can make any CDM radio hold up to 255 channels with this method as well.?
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As far as the remote part, that is just the remote mount kit. But to start I'd mount the 1250 head on your 750 body, make the changes with Chirp, and verify it all works. Then install the remote kit and verify it still works.
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Read this page twice:
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Here are the notes I made while doing this:
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####################################################
Chirp
####################################################
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Open Chirp 20181018
? ? load module waris.py
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Download from Radio
Model: Waris Tuning
Update features
128 Trunking Channel Limit
Check all signaling boxes
255 Conventional Channel Limit
Upload to radio
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Control Head Types
CDM750? head:? ?C 0x00
CDM1250 head: D 0x11
CDM1550 head:? ?H 0x21
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Note: After changing CDM750 control head to CDM1250 or CDM1550 the display won't work at first.
After the chirp option we must return to the CPS to read the codeplug, update the channel name info, and re-write.
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Larry


Re: Midland 91-1110 Basetech III intermittent receive

 

How old are they? I seem to remember about 10-15yrs ago a major mfr of ceramic IF filters, maybe Murata, made bad batches that affected lots of brands of radios. They would fail after some time and the only fix is to replace them. If you have a spectrum analyzer you could sniff the input and output of the IF filter during good and bad times to see if its isolated to the IF filter.?


Re: Isolated Tee

 

This is exactly what I used yesterday to do an effective sensitivity test on an APRS digi here to determine why it has limited receive range..
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On Mon, May 19, 2025 at 06:01 AM, Matthew Kaufman wrote:

RF Industries Unidapt kit plus one of these:?
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Adjustable coupling, which can be very helpful.


Midland 91-1110 Basetech III intermittent receive

 

I'm troubleshooting a pair of 91-1110 VHF repeaters that both seem to exhibit the same issue: Intermittent receive.
The units will work perfectly for days, then suddenly stop recognizing a receive signal (even with a comm analyzer on freq and PL connected to the RX N connector.
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Sometimes, immediately preceeding this failure mode, the BUSY light on the front panel will illuminate with a 1 bar signal shown on the LED display.? Sometimes the machine will still work in this condition, other times it does not recognize a legitimate input signal (ie, on freq with correct PL)? then the BUSY light will extinguish and the RX will be dead.? No recognition of any on freq on PL signal into the RX input.
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If left alone, hours to days later, it recovers and once again receives and works normally.? Then it fails again in the same cadence.? Rinse and repeat...
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Having no familiarity with these machines and having only minimal data (the programming manual, user manual, and supplementary maintenance manual) I do not have enough data to go looking for the root cause of the intermittent failure.? I thought logic issues, but I would not expect a logic fault to self clear, so I'm at a loss.
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Both machines were a "give away" from local public service, so I wonder if both were exhibiting this failure and discarded from use.
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Has anyone experienced a similar issue?? Any thoughts on where to focus troubleshooting?? Furhter, soes anyone have a complete maintenance manual (not the addendum.? I already have that)?
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Thanks for the assist
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Ron
KA3JIJ


Re: ID intervals (was: [repeater-builder] RC-210 and SLR-8000 PL Inhibit)

 

This really belongs on the FCC Rules group! ?The ground system needs watering!


Re: RC-210 and SLR-8000 PL Inhibit

 

Oh good grief! ?Take this overrated pissing contest over to the ¡°FCC Rules Group¡±! ?That¡¯s why I established that group!
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73
?
Kevin


Re: upgrade cdm 750 dash to 1250 remote

 

ok fat fingers to cdm 1250 and phone is 913-530-6527


On Sat, May 24, 2025 at 10:01?AM dewey jones via <luckyduck1956=[email protected]> wrote:
i just changed a cdm 750 4 channel to 36 channel for testing haven't?got much further but planning?
to put it in 6 meters.? i used chirp to do this works ok for both control head swap and band
change. if you need help contact me at 019-530-652? name is Dewey or Lucky
W0DRJ/KAF4575

On Sat, May 24, 2025 at 8:46?AM Part 15 Engineer via <kc8gpd=[email protected]> wrote:
Is this possible to do?

It's a low band d split 25 to 40 w.


Re: upgrade cdm 750 dash to 1250 remote

 

i just changed a cdm 750 4 channel to 36 channel for testing haven't?got much further but planning?
to put it in 6 meters.? i used chirp to do this works ok for both control head swap and band
change. if you need help contact me at 019-530-652? name is Dewey or Lucky
W0DRJ/KAF4575

On Sat, May 24, 2025 at 8:46?AM Part 15 Engineer via <kc8gpd=[email protected]> wrote:
Is this possible to do?

It's a low band d split 25 to 40 w.


Tait TM-8105 UHF AllStarLink Ready Repeaters -- Memorial Day Sale

 

Memorial Day Sale - $100 Off

40 Watt UHF 70CM Watt AllStarLink Repeaters including Raspberry Pi
computer, Sound Interface, and 2 Tait Radios, ready to go and link to
the AllStar Network!



UHF AllStarLink Repeater - $399 !
UHF AllStarLink Simplex Node - $359 !

Sale lasts while supplies last Starting today through Thursday 5/29.


73
Skyler W0SKY