There are two types of gauge, the roller gauge intended mainly for straight track and the three point one which automatically widens the gauge on curves. As Roy Link has? said, 14mm standards are basically EM but narrower. Buy from Carrs (C&L) a couple of EM roller gauges. Unless they have changed they are in effect a series of spacers and ?tube with a bolt through the middle. Take it apart, measure the centre tube and take 4mm off it and reassemble. Make yourself a length, say 6 inches, of dead straight track. Check that the gauge makes 14mm between the rails, From the EM gauge society buy a couple of three point gauges. Cut out at least 4mm from the centre. Fit the halves onto the rail on your straight track, smear the top with Araldite and put a plate on top. Clamp with hair clips or the like until the Araldite sets. Once solid you can use it like that or drill through and reinforce the Araldite bond with nuts and bolts, say 10 BA.

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I bought a 16.5 back to back gauge, a brass block, and turned it in a lathe to the correct b to b for 14mm gauge, you don't need a four jaw chuck as you are only taking from the face.

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I started in 14mm but gave up and went 16.5 as none of my friends were doing it so I couldn't run on their track. Friends matter more than dead scale. Some time ago Paul Holmes has run my De Wintons on Dinas 1869, but despite their archaic design they are in fact at least eleven years too late!

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John talks about 'finescale' and I've no doubt that smaller rail and true gauge can look better, but recently I saw a good few P4 and EM layouts and though the track looks the part some of the rest? of the modelling was no better, and in some cases not as realistic as some OO layouts. The phrase may be 'total package'.

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Frank

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