开云体育

I have loaded some photos into the photo section in a file called
Lister. By some miracle they seem to be a sensible size, I only wish I
could remember how I did it!

Lister 1
Top view, you can see that I have cut part of the footplate away under
the gear box. The red is the sleeve on the chip, will you notice it when
it's painted black?

Lister 2
This is the coupling pocket, drilled out, ground into a slot and cleaned
up with a fine file

Lister 3
The motor is the one supplied with the kit, I am worried that the
clearance between the brushes and the engine cover is so tight that I
might get shorts. With a DCC chip this will be fatal.

Lister 4
Branchlines new micromotor, just positioned to show how much more
clearance there should be. I have e-mailed Branchlines who say it is
rated at a maximum of 0.75 W at 12 volts, so it can draw 60 mW. However
Branchlines say that the windings are very fine and that it certainly
isn't recommended to run it at that for long. I won't be doing anything
which will make it so the old motor won't still fit.

Lister 5
The modified chassis block, the light catches where I have filed it away

Lister 6
Lister 2 was the modified coupling pocket, I have cut the pivot off the
Kadee and drilled a hole through the top of the coupling pocket, and
then drilled the hole in the coupling bar to match. My intention is to
drill into the end of the shortened coupling bar, and put in a short
length of wire. I think I can find room then for a Slaters buffer spring
to act to centre the Kadee.

Lister 7
Drawing of the footplate, I've cut away the green area.

That's progress so far, I know one or two are holding off DCC because
you aren't supposed to be able to do Roy's Lister, but I reckon I'm well
on the way to getting it done.

Further Episodes to come.

Frank

Frank,

Very impressive, you are a lot braver than I am! If ever I get round to DCC the Lister will be the loco on (I think) channel 0, or whatever it is that can operate a DC only loco.

Regards

Steve

A bit more progress to report. If you looked at the last photos I added,
you will have seen that in one I had cut down the Kadee coupling and
drilled a hole through it. Since then I drilled another hole straight
into the end of the stub beyond the first hole, and Araldited a piece of
wire into it. Once set the coupling was pushed through the coupling
slot, the wire bend down (towards the track) and cut to just over 1 mm
in length. A Slater's buffer spring was the Adaldited across the wire.
See Lister 9

A cut out has been made in each end of the chassis block for the spring,
see Lister 8

I have unsoldered the function wires from the chip. To do it I have had
to remove the shrink wrap, but have replaced it with black which saves
painting it. I had looked at trying to give the driver a working
(glowing) fibre optic cigarette and a working hurricane lamp on the
footplate, both DCC controlled. I think it could be done, but what the
hell, it's Christmas..it's a new year challenge for someone.

I'm partly through painting, and then it is just assembly. I have
decided to try to keep the original motor and to shield the brushes
under the motor cover.

Next pictures should be completed model, I doubt it will be ready for
the new year, but hopefully early next week/month/year

Frank

About half an hour ago it made its first faltering steps under DCC
control. Faltering because there's a bit of paint on the wheels and the
steel track is prototypically rusty. I've posted the last photos, sorry
one is a bit short of depth of field. It is painted a bit darker than it
looks in the pics, I've lightened in photoshop to show the detail. I
still daren't run it with the motor cover in place. I'm going to have to
fit some reliable insulation over the motor terminals first. There isn't
much space.

I'll sort that out, give it a touch of plastic safe oil or thin grease
in the gears and then get it weathered and programmed.

Frank

Very nice work -- thanks for sharing. As we are babysitting our 3 grandkids (2.5 year old twin boy and girl and 6 month old boy) in kind of cold but very wet Chicago, your work has brightened my day!

Bill Uffelman

Frank Sharp <Frank.J.Sharp@...> wrote:

About half an hour ago it made its first faltering steps under DCC
control. Faltering because there's a bit of paint on the wheels and the
steel track is prototypically rusty. I've posted the last photos, sorry
one is a bit short of depth of field. It is painted a bit darker than it
looks in the pics, I've lightened in photoshop to show the detail. I
still daren't run it with the motor cover in place. I'm going to have to
fit some reliable insulation over the motor terminals first. There isn't
much space.

I'll sort that out, give it a touch of plastic safe oil or thin grease
in the gears and then get it weathered and programmed.

Frank



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

I had intended that yesterday's postings would be the end of this saga,
You're all probably sick of seeing Chipped Lister popping up.

However, when I tried to get some insulation which I would regard as
durable, i.e. not just electricians tape, over the motor I found it
difficult to get the engine cover to sit down square. It must be
possible, others have obviously done it. The cover stands up on some
short legs, leaving a gap under the engine cover at the sides. I assume
this was to clear the motor as the drawings in 'Narrow Gauge &
Industrial Modelling Review No. 58 don't show this gap. No doubt Roy
used the smallest motor he could get at the time. Anyway, if you have
been following this tale, you will know that I have a smaller motor on
hand, ex Branchlines.

This morning I have fitted that motor. The kit motor comes with the worm
attached, a very quick waft with the gas torch loosens the adhesive. The
new motor shaft is only 1mm diameter but Sharman make 1.5 to 1 reducing
bushes so I was able to fit the worm to the new motor. I drifted the
holes for the motor screws in the footplate and chassis inwards a touch.
What is critical is the length by which the worm stands away from the
motor base, note from the base, not from the bearing bush on the new
motor. The screws need shortening a fraction, Branchlines say they must
not go more than 1 mm into the motor body. You will need to shorten the
shaft on the worm end and virtually remove it on the other end.

A bit of fiddling and it's running fine, drawing about 20 to 30mA. I
have been able to shorten the legs on the engine cover so there is no
longer a gap at the sides.

Happy New Year to All

Frank

The motor housing of my LISTER kit should fit snugly over the motor, just as
per the real thing. It does NOT 'stand up on short legs' - these only serve to locate the housing on the bed casting. Providing the plastic brush housing on the motor is shaped as shown in the instructions the housing will fit. I've built plenty of these with no problems at all.

Roy

Roy,

You won't believe it but I missed that bit about shaping the brush
housing. It's taken a few moments to spot it on the chassis block
diagram this morning, but that might have something to do with a late
night. Typical for me is to do the 'difficult' and miss the obvious. The
motor is changed now, and it runs O.K. so I'll leave it as it is. I'm a
bit happier with the extra clearance of the wiring, especially as a
short there would probably burn out the chip. I've arranged the pickups
to run on top of the treads, so it acts as if it's slightly sprung, and
it runs like a dream. With this springing effect and the weight, as long
as the track is clean the pickup is totally reliable, which with
something running this slow is essential. It isn't going to be racing
round and round a circuit, so this smaller motor should be fine.

Frank