开云体育

This posting just appeared in another Yahoo Group, which I think might be of interest. Brian Rumary -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: [On30] RE: Grandt Line closing Date: 18 May 2018

Marl End is a no show now - Ralph emailed me directly last week to say that unfortunately he would need to withdraw from the show.? Looking forward to seeing the rest of you in June? - it's not

From the Association website, Bunny Mine, PLR and Abbey Light will appear. Ashcroft too.? Looks like I’m down as FfWHR here and 014 demo on the 7mm website. My LMVLR layout is next year; I will be

John, The list I posted a few nmonths back for Burton on 9 June is below. It may well have changed since but I've not seen an 'official' one, which will probably appear now the Derby show is

Just a few weeks left so I've started cleanup work on my quarry board and ensuring everything works. My K1 is in the middle of rechipping and is in danger of being a static exhibit :( I confess I've

Mark Greenwood wrote: "What this all often means is that while you could model every bolt and rivet, and they would be printed and visible on the model (especially after painting and weathering which

Thanks John, I'm one of the 3 builders of this layout so if anyone has any questions I'll try and answer them as best I can. Regards Mike

To a certain extent the resolution of the printing process is fairly immaterial when adding details to a model. What you really need to worry about is how details you might add will affect the

Michael, I have always use what I call the “1ft. Rule”, how it works is for whatever scale you are working in, the distance that 1ft, equals eg: 7mm. scale is 43.5ft. so I try to find photos of

Hi Michael, My experience with 3D printing is to ensure you know the limits of the 3D print. Shapeways publish those. Just work to those limits. I printed to 16 microns then used the print to make

I am drawing up a coal skip that I intend to have 3D printed by Shapeways using their Ultra Frosted Detail process, which uses 16 micron layers. It is very easy to get carried away and attempt to

I've just added a Hall of Fame entry for this:?/g/o14/wiki/Hall-of-Fame-Ferme-du-Pont-WDLR-1918?I'm hoping the builders will keep us updated (and write for the REVIEW). John

Hi Rod. ?It is a GT Sonic machine bought if I recall from Ebay (but might have been Amazon) One with dials on the front not digital display. It's quite large at about 10 litre to take a 7mm scale

Thanks Paul.? I asked the wrong question.? I meant the ultrasonic machine.

Ambersil from RS.

Paul will be pleased to hear that I don’t use DCC and hence no decoders. I do use PowerFlow for other electrical work and have experienced no problems at all as a result but I have taken note of

John, The solder you want is http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/Ngineering/ngineering_new.html#Solder and the flux is http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/Ngineering/ngineering_new.html#Flux When it comes to

I normally work with the iron set to 100 degrees higher than the melting point of the solder. I might increase this if I am working with a large piece of metal (but this wouldn’t apply to electrical

Thanks Paul that's really helpful. And thanks Rod for your guide - I'm plan to replace the LEDs in the headlights using SMDs. I'll do a bit of internet shopping and come back to you Paul if I cant

I found this guide to be helpful. You may find it useful for your application. http://www.nmra.org.au/Hints/SMDs/Using%20SMD%20LEDs.html Rod