Re: Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
Rod, ? We tend to be a bit afraid of cocking up the job at the last stage. I still airbrush with trepidation, but I always think that the blokes who do hot rods and motor cycle tanks started somewhere. ? Now that is an art form, but outside its 'clan' virtually unrecognised. ? Frank ?
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From: O14@... [mailto:O14@...]
Sent: 01 February 2015 23:38
To: O14@...
Subject: RE: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics? ? Hi Frank, I was a little flippant.? My intent was to show the previous writers that air brushing is not that frightening.? If in doubt I would recommend Tim Shackleton's airbrushing DVDs. My steps for brass painting: 1. Lightly grit blast.
2. Lightly prime with an aerosol automotive primer.
3. Spray smoke box with gunmetal aerosol.
4. Spray remainder with desired colour, in my case a dark grey of some sort.
5. Weather as per Tim Shackleton and/or Martyn Welch.
6. I weather over the gunmetal as well as the body. PS: my little Garratt is a HOn30 unit as used by Victorian Railways NG lines in Australia. Regards
Rod Hutchinson
Australia On Feb 1, 2015 11:33 PM, "'Frank Sharp' frank.j.sharp@... [O14]" <O14@...> wrote: ? Rod, ? There is no such thing as a 'little' Garratt! ? If possible lightly grit blast before painting. Even with etch prier the key is much better. ? Frank ? From: O14@... [mailto:O14@...]
Sent: 01 February 2015 11:40
To: O14@...
Subject: Re: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics ? ? Just go for it. I sprayed the smoke box with a gunmetal aerosol and air brushed the body with floquil grimy black.?? Weathering alah Tim Shackleton, and you have a dirty little Garratt. Regards
Rod Hutchinson
Australia On Feb 1, 2015 10:12 PM, "kevin MacIntosh kelf28@... [O14]" <O14@...> wrote: ? Thanks John, I agree , my nerves are shot,even thinking about it. ? ? Stunning, I find taking an air brush to a beautifully built brass / nickel silver model quite nerve-wracking, which probably explains why I have many fully built but as yet unpainted models! ?
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Re: Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
Hi Frank,
I was a little flippant.? My intent was to show the previous writers that air brushing is not that frightening.? If in doubt I would recommend Tim Shackleton's airbrushing DVDs.
My steps for brass painting:
1. Lightly grit blast.
2. Lightly prime with an aerosol automotive primer.
3. Spray smoke box with gunmetal aerosol.
4. Spray remainder with desired colour, in my case a dark grey of some sort.
5. Weather as per Tim Shackleton and/or Martyn Welch.
6. I weather over the gunmetal as well as the body.
PS: my little Garratt is a HOn30 unit as used by Victorian Railways NG lines in Australia.
Regards
Rod Hutchinson
Australia
?
Rod, ? There is no such thing as a 'little' Garratt! ? If possible lightly grit blast before painting. Even with etch prier the key is much better. ? Frank ? From: O14@... [mailto:O14@...]
Sent: 01 February 2015 11:40
To: O14@...
Subject: Re: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics ? ? Just go for it. I sprayed the smoke box with a gunmetal aerosol and air brushed the body with floquil grimy black.?? Weathering alah Tim Shackleton, and you have a dirty little Garratt. Regards
Rod Hutchinson
Australia On Feb 1, 2015 10:12 PM, "kevin MacIntosh kelf28@... [O14]" <O14@...> wrote: ? Thanks John, I agree , my nerves are shot,even thinking about it. ? ? Stunning, I find taking an air brush to a beautifully built brass / nickel silver model quite nerve-wracking, which probably explains why I have many fully built but as yet unpainted models! ?
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Re: Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
Frank is correct, after all assembly is completed, blasting over with pumice powder or fine aluminium oxide using one of the small abrasive guns such as those made by Badger or Passche gives a fine tooth for the primer to get the best of all possible grips on brass (or any other metal).
If you precede the blasting with a cleaning and de-greasing in an ultrasonic bath, all the better.
Once blasted over, blow any remaining abrasive powder away and then flush over with etch primer thinners. Once this has evaporated or been blown off, get a coat of etch primer on as soon as possible. When dry this will be almost impossible to remove with anything - other than a sharp instrument like a scalpel blade - providing a great base coat for the final finish.
I use Railmatch (H Marcel Guest) one-pack primer (where the thinners is the activator). Don’t ever get thinners in the pot of primer - it will go off rapidly. The primer should be well thinned and sprayed in a warm atmosphere.
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Rod, ? There is no such thing as a 'little' Garratt! ? If possible lightly grit blast before painting. Even with etch prier the key is much better. ? Frank ? ? ? Just go for it. I sprayed the smoke box with a gunmetal aerosol and air brushed the body with floquil grimy black.?? Weathering alah Tim Shackleton, and you have a dirty little Garratt. Regards
Rod Hutchinson
Australia On Feb 1, 2015 10:12 PM, "kevin MacIntosh?kelf28@...?[O14]" <O14@...> wrote: ? Thanks John, I agree , my nerves are shot,even thinking about it. ? ? Stunning, I find taking an air brush to a beautifully built brass / nickel silver model quite nerve-wracking, which probably explains why I have many fully built but as yet unpainted models! ?
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Re: Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
Rod, ? There is no such thing as a 'little' Garratt! ? If possible lightly grit blast before painting. Even with etch prier the key is much better. ? Frank ?
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From: O14@... [mailto:O14@...]
Sent: 01 February 2015 11:40
To: O14@...
Subject: Re: [O14] Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics? ? Just go for it. I sprayed the smoke box with a gunmetal aerosol and air brushed the body with floquil grimy black.?? Weathering alah Tim Shackleton, and you have a dirty little Garratt. Regards
Rod Hutchinson
Australia On Feb 1, 2015 10:12 PM, "kevin MacIntosh kelf28@... [O14]" <O14@...> wrote: ? Thanks John, I agree , my nerves are shot,even thinking about it. ? ? Stunning, I find taking an air brush to a beautifully built brass / nickel silver model quite nerve-wracking, which probably explains why I have many fully built but as yet unpainted models! ?
|
Re: Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
Just go for it. I sprayed the smoke box with a gunmetal aerosol and air brushed the body with floquil grimy black.?? Weathering alah Tim Shackleton, and you have a dirty little Garratt.
Regards
Rod Hutchinson
Australia
?
Thanks John, I agree , my nerves are shot,even thinking about it.
?
Stunning, I find taking an air brush to a beautifully built brass / nickel silver model quite nerve-wracking, which probably explains why I have many fully built but as yet unpainted models!
|
Re: Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
Thanks John, I agree , my nerves are shot,even thinking about it.
On Sunday, 1 February 2015, 11:02, "mark_noble@... [O14]" wrote:
?
Stunning, I find taking an air brush to a beautifully built brass / nickel silver model quite nerve-wracking, which probably explains why I have many fully built but as yet unpainted models!
|
Re: Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
Stunning, I find taking an air brush to a beautifully built brass / nickel silver model quite nerve-wracking, which probably explains why I have many fully built but as yet unpainted models!
|
Re: kargarin 100/8 rail (roller gauges)
I know a lot od people swear by roller gauges, but they are not without
there problems when it comes to hand laying track, especially if you happen to
be working on a gradient, roller gauges tend to do what they do best, ‘they roll
away’ making it hard for you to keep them in place while continuing to spike the
rails.
Personally I believe that roller gauges are really only good for testing
track after you have laid it, and mind you a pair of rail wheels will basically
do the same thing, although a bogie is probably a better choice, but as far as
setting the gauge goes, I think the old 3 point gauges are the best, as they
hold the rails to the correct gauge on straights and as you move it into a
curve, because you have to points on contact on one side and a single on the
other, the outer rail is forced outward to compensate for the diagonal between
the 2 lugs on one side, which gives you an automatic gauge widening on curves,
and best of all you don’t have to think about whether you need to allow gauge
widening on a given curve, a 3 point gauge will decide that for you.
I notice also on your drawing, you have the gauge designed for 14mm. gauge,
but keep in mind unless you have modified the axles on your Garratt's Romford
axles are set for Sn3 [14.3mm.] so if you lay your track to 14mm. you might have
problems.
?
Brian
Qld.
Aust.
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Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 8:32 PM
Subject: [O14] kargarin 100/8 rail (roller gauges) [1
Attachment]
?
Hi All
?
As ive completed Ngg16 .110, ,,,just needs painting. I have decided to start
the dreaded turnout building.
As im using Karlgarin 100/8 rail. the KBscale roller gauges are not
correct.
?
I sent David (KBscale) a e-mail concerning my problem..He tried to fabricate
this on the lathe , but no luck.
So i got sent the drawing which i have attached.
?
Would any of you know a better way of making a roller gauge or a gauge spacer
,as im very much stuck now
any help or advice would be great.
?
regards
Kevin
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Re: kargarin 100/8 rail (roller gauges)
Kevin, ? As Roy Link's standard was based on narrowed EM gauge I bought Carrs (C&L) EM roller gauges. These are very similar to John's description except that the spacing is done by a piece of tubing on the bolt. Simply shorten the tube. ? Frank ?
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From: O14@... [mailto:O14@...]
Sent: 30 January 2015 11:14
To: O14@...
Subject: [O14] Re: kargarin 100/8 rail (roller gauges)? ? Hi Kevin, A simple, crude but often effective method is to use a long bolt, 4 nuts, 4 large washers and smaller washers to pack out to the rail width. If you do one end up tight then adjust the other using a piece of track to a known exact gauge as a reference. I made a few like this for my S7 with gauge widening for the curves.
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Re: Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
Beautiful … neat work?
Gary?
Marlborough | SN8 1PA
primer get done tonight....hopefully
<20150129_124518.jpg><20150129_115026.jpg><20150129_114959.jpg><20150129_124538.jpg><20150129_124407.jpg>
?
?
DISCLAIMER: "Opinions, conclusions and other information contained in this e-mail that do not relate to the official business of Marlborough College shall not be understood as endorsed or given by the College. Any attachments are confidential and may be the subject of legal privilege. Any use, copying or disclosure other than by the intended recipient is unauthorised. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete this message and any copies from your computer and network"
|
Re: kargarin 100/8 rail (roller gauges)
Hi Kevin,
A simple, crude but often effective method is to use a long bolt, 4 nuts, 4 large washers and smaller washers to pack out to the rail width. If you do one end up tight then adjust the other using a piece of track to a known exact gauge as a reference.
I made a few like this for my S7 with gauge widening for the curves.
John
|
Re: Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
|
Ngg16 .110 pre-painted pics
primer get done tonight....hopefully
|
kargarin 100/8 rail (roller gauges)
Hi All
As ive completed Ngg16 .110, ,,,just needs painting. I have decided to start the dreaded turnout building. As im using Karlgarin 100/8 rail. the KBscale roller gauges are not correct.
I sent David (KBscale) a e-mail concerning my problem..He tried to fabricate this on the lathe , but no luck. So i got sent the drawing which i have attached.
Would any of you know a better way of making a roller gauge or a gauge spacer ,as im very much stuck now any help or advice would be great.
regards Kevin
|
Re: Military N.G. Enquiry
John,
You might want to see if anyone is a stockist of this brand name in your
neck of the woods, but this mob here in Oz will certainly send you what you want
if they have it in stock.
<>
?
<>
?
<>
Brian
Qld.
Aust.
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Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 6:22 AM
Subject: [O14] Military N.G. Enquiry
?
Hello Roy,
?
I am in process of scratchbuilding some 7mm. scale WW1 military N.G.
locomotives and rolling stock, and am awaiting the arrival of my copy of "WDLR
Album" here in Texas.? I have a question which I hope you might
answer.? I have seen photos of similar 7mm. models in the U.K. and all have
very realistic versions of the "corrugated" water suction hoses carried on the
locomotives.? Might you advise as to what material is used to represent
such hoses in 7mm. scale, as well as recommend sources for such material.
?
Likewise, might you suggest a reference source for WW1 German N.G.
locomotives and rolling stock.? I am interested in sources for drawings and
photos.? I have a copy of Dr. Cenac's book, the two books by Keith
Taylorson , and Rich Dunn's book on U.S. equipment, but absolutely nothing on
German equipment.? I am hoping that "WDLR Album" contains the drawings of
British wagons missing from my files ( particularly Class E and Class F Wagons
)!
?
Thank you for your help.
?
Best regards,
John A. Craig
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Database: 4273/9007 - Release Date: 01/27/15
|
Re: Military N.G. Enquiry
Hello John
For the pipes try the large-scale plastic motor-bike details add-on-market.? I got some 10" lengths of 3mm corrugated flexible brake pipes in a grimy black - should be ideal for you.
For German stock there is a superb book 'Heeres Feldnahnen' by Alfred R Gottvaldt (ISBN3-613-01080-1) 1996.? There are also some weight diagrams of German WW1 stock in Sid Moir's book 'Namib Narrow Gauge'.
Cheers
David
From: "bravophoto@... [O14]"
To: O14@...
Sent: Tuesday, 27 January 2015, 21:45
Subject: [O14] Re: Military N.G. Enquiry
?
Hello John,
I use guitar string for mine bottom E seems to be about right.
For German side of things try 'Two Foot Rails to the Front' - Charles S Small sorry, no ISBN on it, also some good footage on YouTube which can be found via the Narrow Military Rail Forum.
Kevin.
?
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Re: Military N.G. Enquiry
Hello John,
I use guitar string for mine bottom E seems to be about right.
For German side of things try 'Two Foot Rails to the Front' - Charles S Small sorry, no ISBN on it, also some good footage on YouTube which can be found via the Narrow Military Rail Forum.
Kevin.
?
|
Hello Roy,
I am in process of scratchbuilding some 7mm. scale WW1 military N.G. locomotives and rolling stock, and am awaiting the arrival of my copy of "WDLR Album" here in Texas. ?I have a question which I hope you might answer. ?I have seen photos of similar 7mm. models in the U.K. and all have very realistic versions of the "corrugated" water suction hoses carried on the locomotives. ?Might you advise as to what material is used to represent such hoses in 7mm. scale, as well as recommend sources for such material.
Likewise, might you suggest a reference source for WW1 German N.G. locomotives and rolling stock. ?I am interested in sources for drawings and photos. ?I have a copy of Dr. Cenac's book, the two books by Keith Taylorson , and Rich Dunn's book on U.S. equipment, but absolutely nothing on German equipment. ?I am hoping that "WDLR Album" contains the drawings of British wagons missing from my files ( particularly Class E and Class F Wagons )!?
Thank you for your help.
Best regards, John A. Craig
|
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On 25 Jan 2015, at 18:27, James Hockley jameshockley_38@... [O14] < O14@...> wrote:
?
I am pleased to say that the price on the gauge will now be ?7 thanks to the quantity of the order.
It will be 4 weeks or so before these are produced.
James Hockley?
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S5 - powered by Three
-------- Original message --------
From: "John Clutterbuck jclutterbuck2001@... [O14]" < O14@...>
Date:24/01/2015 12:17 (GMT+00:00)
To: O14@...
Cc:
Subject: Re: [O14] Back to back gauge
?
Roy/All,
I appreciate your concerns that the standards relate to the wheels you originally produced, so I thought it would be useful to measure my locos and rolling stock which use other types wheels. Results are:
Wagons - mainly Alan Gibson OO wheels re-gauged (I'm assuming these are RP25) - 12.4mm
Manning Wardle 2-6-2 -? Alan Gibson wheels intended for the 7mm L&B kit - 12.4mm
Baldwin 4-6-0 - very old Alan Gibson wheels intended for OO/EM - 12.4mm
K1 Garratt - coarse Romford/Markits wheels on 14mm axles re-profiled with Scale7 tool - 12.3mm
From the above I would assert that the modern fine RP25 standard wheels set to 12.4mm will work just fine.
Interesting the B to B part of my old RCL standards gauge (which O confess I rarely use) seems to measure at 12.6mm. I don't believe my 15 year old (but carefully looked after) Mitutoyo vernier caliper is at fault.
Regards
John
|
I am pleased to say that the price on the gauge will now be ?7 thanks to the quantity of the order.
It will be 4 weeks or so before these are produced.
James Hockley?
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S5 - powered by Three
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message --------
From: "John Clutterbuck jclutterbuck2001@... [O14]"
Date:24/01/2015 12:17 (GMT+00:00)
To: O14@...
Cc:
Subject: Re: [O14] Back to back gauge
?
Roy/All,
I appreciate your concerns that the standards relate to the wheels you originally produced, so I thought it would be useful to measure my locos and rolling stock which use other types wheels. Results are:
Wagons - mainly Alan Gibson OO wheels re-gauged (I'm assuming these are RP25) - 12.4mm
Manning Wardle 2-6-2 -? Alan Gibson wheels intended for the 7mm L&B kit - 12.4mm
Baldwin 4-6-0 - very old Alan Gibson wheels intended for OO/EM - 12.4mm
K1 Garratt - coarse Romford/Markits wheels on 14mm axles re-profiled with Scale7 tool - 12.3mm
From the above I would assert that the modern fine RP25 standard wheels set to 12.4mm will work just fine.
Interesting the B to B part of my old RCL standards gauge (which O confess I rarely use) seems to measure at 12.6mm. I don't believe my 15 year old (but carefully looked after) Mitutoyo vernier caliper is at fault.
Regards
John
|
G Shearn