Re attic/loft -- if you had put insulation without a vapor barrier that did not contact the underside of the roof structure you would have upped the R value. It would have been really good if you used a foam board that is impervious to moisture still leaving the gap.
May want to add outside vents at the end of the flat ceiling unless there is a lot of venting going on under the roof tiles.
But it is done now so enjoy it.
Bill Uffelman
Las Vegas NV -- it's a dry heat!
adriangrayfr <adrian@...> wrote:
My substantial loft in a 1948 vintage house has had the 3" joists
doubled, to 6" depth, to carry the chipboard floor (I have quite a
bit of FR Archivery up there as well) and the space between these
joists has been filled with rockwool (fibreglass) insulation. This
has the double benefit of having seriously reduced the heating bill
for the house below and reducing the sounds of my friends and I
tramping about above the family bedrooms!
The tiled and felted roof has been underdrawn with softboard nailed
to the rafters. The architect member of our group was adamant that
NO waterproof membrane should be put behind the softboard and that
the gap under the felt should be left so that air can circulate; for
this reason the softboard does not go all the way to the apex but an
18" wide horizontal ceiling ensures a gap from one side to the other
(it also makes a good foundation for the six neon tubes).
If you impede the airflow there will be problems with condensation
between softboard and the underside of the felt.
The softboard has been painted with white emulsion - a tedious job as
it soaks up paint by the gallon, but it makes a very light 'room'.
The insulation from the house below prevents the 'room' becoming too
warm and the softboard above insulates the 'room'(mostly) from
outside temperatures. I now have a space for a layout that doesn't
suffer the extremes of temperature found in some lofts.
I feel a Narrow Lines article coming on............grrr!
Adrian
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