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Re: [O-14] Question re 0-16.5


Vincent Bradley
 

Yes, two, 7mmnga and On30 both appropriate

-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Spencer [mailto:janantone@...]
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 10:38 AM
To: O-14@...
Subject: [O-14] Question re 0-16.5



Can anybody tell me if there is a 0-16.5 group as I haven't been able to
find one? Or in particular Lynton & Barnstaple.

Cheers

Tony Spencer

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Kendrick [mailto:trainbrain@...]
Sent: 17 January 2005 03:43
To: O-14@...
Subject: RE: [O-14] Gear trains in loco's


Frank,
Thanks for relating your experience and the photos.
I think I will go for a gunmetal or steel worm with a delrin or celcon gear
with a widened bearing area to prevent the wobble.
Regards,
Mark



-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Sharp [mailto:Frank.J.Sharp@...]
Sent: Thursday, 13 January 2005 11:39 PM
To: O-14@...
Subject: RE: [O-14] Gear trains in loco's



Mark,
I assume when you say gear chain you mean a worm and gear and then a set
or series of gears to either increase the reduction ratio or move the
drive somewhere else.
I've always understood that the worm should be harder than the gear,
hence steel/brass and brass/nylon. Nylon/nylon seems to work, but if you
get anything abrasive in the mesh the worm soon wears away. Think about
this if your thinking of sand ballast for example.
Once you've got to the gear to gear section, unless you can find
helically cut gears, if indeed they are made so small, and unless you
can run in an oil or grease bath, metal to metal gears tend to be noisy.
My only objection to some of the small nylon gears used in reduction
boxes is that rather than rotate with the shaft they are intended to
rotate on the shaft. If they are thin they tend to wobble. I've sleeved
nylon gears with brass tubing to make the bit which rotates on the shaft
slightly longer and a closer fit to stop the wobble. Usually I use brass
gears if available in the size I want and put up with the noise.
If possible I sleeve the final drive gear on the driven axle. The brass
sleeve is stopped from spinning by a piece of thin wire through a hole
drilled through the brass/axle/brass so it goes right through. You can
then leave the wire out whilst you set up the quartering and any valve
gear.
I'll put a picture in photos of the drive for my De Winton. The motor
goes up in the boiler and this whole unit is sprung. This leaves the
real driven axle clear for the working valve gear.

Frank







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