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--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., "figureloop" <crobc@...> wrote:

Anyone here want to fess up?

Wasn't me. I bought all the IV-17 VFD's 8-)

But occasionally I consider buying a handful of numitrons just to make a numitron clock for the sake of "completeness."

So far I've only added a single numitron to my collection, just to see what it looks like up close. It doesn't help that most of the available ones are very small. Thus, the Russian IV-13 is very interesting, but the price is too high to buy a set (and replacements) "just for completeness."

The IV-9 is a nice part and is available from $1.00 to $1.50 each depending on quantity. Oddly, the current eBay listings have the price per tube go UP as quantity increases 10/100/1000.

If you don't want to start from scratch, I'd suggest the Numimini kit from Jon Ellis. He posts here from time to time. He sells them in full kit, partially-assembled (surface mount components pre-installed) and fully-assembled versions. There's an ended eBay listing for them at: if you want to see what it looks like or need contact info.

_
()

Do you notice a difference between the ones with and without the CCCP
stamp?

Michail

[edited by A.J. - please trim quoted material]
-----
From: NEONIXIE-L@... On Behalf Of michail1@...

Your link to the album doesn't work for me.

I have posted my findings.

Basically, I can't find a specific way to determine Used vs New. I can
say I have tried to figure it out and I have thousands go through my hands
(well, maybe just a little over a thousand) without a clear indication.

Anyone else?

I have never had one burn out yet.
<snip>
-----

For what it's worth, I have a clock with 6 ZM1040 tubes that has been running
24x7 since 2004 and no part of the tube shows any darkening compared to a set
of NOS tubes that I have as spares. If I were to pull the six years in use
tubes and shuffle them with the unused ones, I'd be hard pressed to tell
which was which.

Joe

Hi:

I'm shifting into CRT and dekatron mode now that I've bought too many Nixies. I put in an order for a CRT today with Sphere Research, and they told me that someone recently made off with their entire stock of Apollo/ITT DA2110 numitrons.

Anyone here want to fess up?

Just wondering what someone is planning to do with all those.

I'm fascinated mainly by Nixies and CRTs, with VFDs in third. Unfortunately, I seem to have recently gotten bitten by interest in dekatrons.

But occasionally I consider buying a handful of numitrons just to make a numitron clock for the sake of "completeness."

So far I've only added a single numitron to my collection, just to see what it looks like up close. It doesn't help that most of the available ones are very small. Thus, the Russian IV-13 is very interesting, but the price is too high to buy a set (and replacements) "just for completeness."

Good day!

--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., "figureloop" <crobc@...> wrote:

Hi:

I've posted photos showing darkening that I've described in previous
posts:




Photos are located in "Photos|figureloop": Member: figureloop
<;
t>

Care to speculate on the cause of these different types of darkening?

Is there any problem with the link?

I'm surprised there aren't lots of comments on IN-18 tube newness/darkening photos!

It would be valuable to see some stats (and who the sellers were) on:

1. How many folks have bought "new" IN-18 with side darkening?
2. How many folks have bought "new" IN-18 with only pink spacer darkening?
3. How many folks have bought "new" IN-18 with un-darkened pink spacers?

thanks entirely to THREE NEURONS designs and MR mikes new and wonderful hvps (get one soon)that will output all the voltages to run your dekatrons
so let's go, pull them out of the drawers and lets get them all vari spinning ...look at the size of that spinner ,i could be made just a bit smaller (spinner tie tac?)(spinner belt buckle)(in hats)(bras ?ouch)12 volts input works in cars . a word of caution 540vdc has a bit more sting than the 180volt i am use to and could burn the spot of contact (been there done it)have fun but look out it will teach respect for high voltage


SEE THE MOVIE

how do you turn the sound off?

--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., "marta_kson" <marta_kson@...> wrote:

Are there any differences on the edges of the numerals on clear and slightly darkened tubes? The pictures posted has not enough resolution to see if the edges looks newly cut or "corroded" from use.

Direct inspection of the tubes doesn't reveal any peculiarities about the electrode edges. Since only micro, or even likely nanograms of material could produce darkening of the glass, I doubt eating away at the electrodes would be perceptible.

Just noticed your link changed in your post. It is supposed to be a T at
the end, instead of a slash T.

Major thing I just noticed.....
All my tubes have always had the CCCP logo on the back.

Your tube(s) does not.

Michail Wilson
206-920-6312

Your link to the album doesn't work for me.

I have posted my findings.

Basically, I can't find a specific way to determine Used vs New. I can
say I have tried to figure it out and I have thousands go through my hands
(well, maybe just a little over a thousand) without a clear indication.

Anyone else?

I have never had one burn out yet.

I have had 2 crack on me, but that was my fault in the beginning because I
would build the clock (solder in the pin sockets) and then insert the
tube. Stress on the glass would cause it to crack after a couple of days.
After the second one, I realized what happened, so I ended up using those two
tubes to solder in socket pins so that they are aligned before putting in
good tubes.

Michail Wilson

[edited by A.J. - please trim quoted material]

Are there any differences on the edges of the numerals on clear and slightly darkened tubes? The pictures posted has not enough resolution to see if the edges looks newly cut or "corroded" from use.

Regarding the use of multiple bridge rectifiers.

There can be a problem if one of the outputs is commoned eg negatives joined together and/or ground.

It wires a diode in each bridge in parallel. Current sharing can be a problem.

Easier to see if you sketch it out.


I found this problem in an all-time-zones multiple display digital clock supplied to Nurrungar near Woomera in South Australia. Each module had its own bridge; they just wired them all across one transformer winding. A couple of the diodes got very hot.


Nurrungar was also the source of my Systron Donner Nixie clock in the photos section.

John K.

[edited by A.J. - please trim quoted material]
--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., Eli Dayan <eli.dayan@...> wrote:

On 08/12/2010 01:47 PM, DanielK wrote:

I need to use an AC power transformer rated at 2 amps at 12 v for
a clock.

After full wave rectification and filtering the voltage unloaded
climbs to ~20 volts.

I need 16 volts DC to get enough current out from my HV Nixie
switch mode supply and 5 volts DC for the clock logic.

Who designed the switchmode supply-- you or are you using someone else's
pre-made board? Anyway, the intent of the question is that you don't
necessarily need 16V to get 200V at high current.

<snip>

You don't necessarily need to regulate the input voltage to
your boost converter since it is a regulator in itself.

<snip>

Beware. A B7971 tube consumes a lot more current than your standard
nixie due to it's segmented display, and its size (it's quite large for
a nixie). I have done a lot of experimenting and work with these tubes
and realised you can get a fairly bright, more than sufficient output at
about 15mA per tube. This means you will need at least 90mA of HV for
six tubes. In my clock I used two boost converters of my design to net
60mA to drive four tubes.

<snip>

I am using John Taylor's SMPS. See specs here:

He states that it will put out 55mA if the input voltage is 16 volts.
At 12 volts input, the SMPS will output 45 mA or better, so I can use two for six B7971s.

My intent with two regulators is to get the heat dissipation to a minimum and split the heat between two regulators. I suppose I could use a 10 volt transformer, since the unregulated output should be close to 12 volts.

--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., Jkx <jkx@...> wrote:

Does anyone have interest in Vishay plasma displays?



The 1x4 char, 16segment, 2x1" char PD-04A200 gets my attention:

Hmmm, interesting indeed. 10 pc price from Newark in down to $120.
And the lead time while long, is shorter then for some Atmel processors
that I'm low on.

What's the situation with ZM1350s these days?

I'd be up for one, maybe two if the price with shipping/handling could be
kept down.
Need the -2 style with terminals that can be soldered..

Hi Henry.

The vishay (new plasma display) seems to be a good deal, because the only
display of this size I know, is the ZM1350. and the only source for this
ZM1350 is Jan.

Now look at the price, Jan sells one digit at 23.80??? * 4 = ~ 96 ??? (without
shipping..) and mouser ask 119??? for a new Vishay (free shipping) ..

So that's quite the same price at the end. Vishay looks nicer (and better
condition).

Jan sells some great products at descent price (bought some trami from him)
but with the currently dropping nixie's price, this simply become stupid.

Where do you see Nixie prices declining?

--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., "DanielK" <kuriloff@...> wrote:

[edited by A.J. - please trim quoted material]
--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., "figureloop" <crobc@> wrote:

I recently bought some IN-18 from sellers ranutek and bsa_79 on Ebay. I suspect that these tubes are not new despite being listed as such in the item title.

<snip>

Have there been indications of IN-18s being not new before from Ebay sources which listed them as "new?"

---

Can everyone who has had a questionable purchase of tubes on ebay compile a list of suspicious dealers to avoid? These tubes are getting very expensive and we don't want to get further ripped off. Is anyone interested in a group purchase to get a better price on IN-18 tubes. They seem to be going for an average price of $40.00 per tube. There appear to be a number of sellers on ebay from Russia and I have a feeling there remains a substantial supply there.
DBK

I bought two batches, one from bsa_79 and one from ranutek. Unfortunately, I mixed them up so I can't say for sure which one supplied mostly new-looking tubes, vs. used looking tubes.

There is still some question about what degree of darkening constitutes normal burn-in vs. being used. I still maintain the view that darkening of the glass sides where there are rectangular holes in the anode, results from use.

I am surprised that this post of photos didn't result in any discussion:

On 08/12/2010 01:47 PM, DanielK wrote:

I need to use an AC power transformer rated at 2 amps at 12 v for a clock.

After full wave rectification and filtering the voltage unloaded climbs to ~20 volts.

I need 16 volts DC to get enough current out from my HV Nixie switch mode supply and 5 volts DC for the clock logic.

Who designed the switchmode supply-- you or are you using someone else's pre-made board? Anyway, the intent of the question is that you don't necessarily need 16V to get 200V at high current. I was able to squeeze 200V@30mA out of a MC34063 with a 12V unregulated input. Which part are you using? A part like the MAX1771 can do much better, though, but is harder to design around. Also, perhaps you can use a LM7815 to get 15V and then that will be sufficient, but then I wonder why you wouldn't just feed the unregulated 12V from the transformer into your nixie supply. You don't necessarily need to regulate the input voltage to your boost converter since it is a regulator in itself.

My question is: can I use a L200CV adjustable regulator for the 16 volts and then feed the regulated 16 volts to another fixed 5v regulator?

Going from 16V to 5V will dissipate quite a bit of heat. Also, you can use a LM7815 to get 15V, and then that might be sufficient.

Will the current draw from the adjustable 200CV regulator be too much or would I be better off using two bridge rectifiers and feed the two regulators separately???

I don't know, all it says on the data sheet is that the Io is internally limited.... perhaps 2A.

I will be using 6 B7971 tubes in one clock and 6 IN-8 tubes for another clock.

Beware. A B7971 tube consumes a lot more current than your standard nixie due to it's segmented display, and its size (it's quite large for a nixie). I have done a lot of experimenting and work with these tubes and realised you can get a fairly bright, more than sufficient output at about 15mA per tube. This means you will need at least 90mA of HV for six tubes. In my clock I used two boost converters of my design to net 60mA to drive four tubes.

Thanks for the help since I am a novice at this.

Sure. Hope this helps.

-E

...should have mentioned that I do have a tray of faulty ones should anyone want one for display or to have a go re-filling them...

Nick

--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., "DanielK" <kuriloff@...> wrote:

I need to use an AC power transformer rated at 2 amps at 12 v for a clock.

After full wave rectification and filtering the voltage unloaded
climbs to ~20 volts.

I need 16 volts DC to get enough current out from my HV Nixie
switch mode supply and 5 volts DC for the clock logic.

Depending on how much current your clock needs, you might find that your rectified and filtered output may sag down below 16 volts. I wouldn't be surprised to see it go right back down near to 12 volts, if you use close to the full 2 amps.

My question is: can I use a L200CV adjustable regulator for the 16
volts and then feed the regulated 16 volts to another fixed 5v
regulator?

Will the current draw from the adjustable 200CV regulator be too
much or would I be better off using two bridge rectifiers and feed
the two regulators separately???

You can cascade the regulators like that if, as you wrote, the total power and current ratings of the 16 volt regulator will not be exceeded. You can also feed both regulators in parallel from the output of one bridge rectifier. This will reduce the load on the 16 volt regulator but increase the power dissipation in the 5 volt regulator. I see no need to to use separate bridge rectifiers and filter capacitors, unless you have some problem with switching noise from the HV supply adversely affecting the clock's logic circuits.

A.J.

-- In NEONIXIE-L@..., "Mike" <mbarile2@...> wrote:

Great little diagram:
Question though, if you are solving for Ra you need to know
this internal Anode Voltage correct? ...
Is there a way to determine this optimal drop and thus
solve for Ra??

It's an iterative process. You make a best guess at the start. The anode voltage (VN), usually ranges between 130V to 150V. Try 140V for starters. Calculate, and insert the tentative RA, in a test setup; Never the final circuit. Measure the VN across the nixie, and WRITE IT DOWN. Now you have your VN, or VA, (VA=VN) as its often called.

Also note, you don't need to be exact. ALL technology, including electronics, never is. Calculate a resistor that will be in the proper operating current range, assuming the voltage is 130V, and then assuming its 150V. If you calculate a value that's good for both, use it.

--- In NEONIXIE-L@..., Jkx <jkx@...> wrote:

For an audio amp, I guess I will go the "hype" of the NOS quartet. But keep in mind
the audio beams have a quite good stability in time while the nixie, and worst the
plasma display don't.

Take a look at ZM1350, do they looks in good condition ? probably not .. Are you sure
when you buy them, that the filament are not coated or dead no ..

So will you buy (at the same price) a probably in worst condition ZM1350 or a brand
new Vishay ? I will go for the new one.

This is a bit unfair. The ZM1350s that Jan sells are NOS - some do out-gas over time (as do all tubes, even Mullard/Philips/GE audio/RF tubes etc.), but Jan has the wonderful tester - - he tests everything before shipping.

All his ZM1350s are guaranteed fully working. If they have lasted this long, they are likely to last a very very long time. I have bought over 100 of them from him and all are perfect - all came in their original trays.

Nick