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I bought both an H4 and TinySA Ultra from R&L at the strong recommendation of several. Both units are very good and good distributor that stands behind them.

Hi all. I have looked for past postings for my question, but don't find a >recent< answer. So here's my situation. I have destroyed my second NanoVNA, an H4 model that I bought last July to replace my

The USB port does not define the connectivity protocol, just the physical interconnect, and if DFU is working (part of the bootloader), but the COM port mode isn't, then that could also be a bad

15:2 ratio? Approx. Cheers, Paul

56:1? That’s kind of a weird ratio. 49:1 is easy, it’s 7:1 turns ratio (impedance goes as the square of the turns ratio). 64:1 would be 8:1 turns.

FWIW, I had a similar problem with my NanoVNA-H. It wouldn't work with the USB-C cable that came with my Hantek Oscilloscope. It wouldn't work with the USB-C cable that came with my cell phone. I

I'm looking back at this and thinking about your configuration. Its much like an inverted L but on its side - so yet not, but the second half may still be experiencing some loading. Its understood

Good morning Tim, Thanks for the note about DFU driver, I didn't knew. An interesting thing is the fact that yesterday evening I installed nanoVNA-saver on a MacBook Air (with MacBook Ports) and I

Just out of curiosity, have you tried different USB cables? I think i have heard that some are non data complient, meaning they are just power cables. Fred N4CLA [email protected]> wrote:

maybe just fold a bit over to get it a tiny bit higher?? so 20m is better into place?? and getting the mid dip on the 40m band inside the band?? that does not do much on 80 ... maybe lifts a bit more

DFU mode is a completely different driver in Windows, so lacking the appropriate COM port driver will cause this but still alow upgrades. - Tim -- Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please

I have been making RF/microwave prototypes for decades and wouldn't do it any other way. Especially with the proliferation of nanoVNAs/SAs, using directly-mateable connectors makes sense. Use SMA

I'm also using that building style quite a lot. Attached is a look under the chassis of my 15-band MW/SW AM radio, and also a photo of the FM module that I will add to it, to turn it into a 16-band

Hi Bob, I tried your trick also, and also with no luck :( That "USB unrecognized" message still appears. And BTW, no COM port appears in Device Manager when I am trying to connect my friend's NanoVNA

Hi Fred , I tried your hint, but unfortunatelly with no luck :( Still the same problem...

SUGGESTION: First learn the ropes at HF frequencies, <20 MHz. Once you have conquered those, then branch out to higher frequencies. Dave - W?LEV [email protected]> wrote: -- Dave - W?LEV

Addressing your first plot from 3 to 30 MHz: Your worst case return loss (RT) shows roughly 4 dB at the low end and pretty much 5 dB for the rest of the plot. At low points of the RT I'd expect

I've seen other kits which supply 130 ft with a 56:1. (and since you went with a heavy wire you are a little long on your trim yet - its seen in your traces) If its high enough a counterpoise isn't

The 49:1 UNUN is whatever MyANTENNA sells. I did not open it or examine it. I took off the counterpoise and put it back on (30 ft wire) and it made very little difference since the coax itself served

Stan You raise good points. I am using the space I have available. The 140 ft #12 wire attached to the MyANTENNA 49:1 UNUN is about 20 ft above Chester County ground and is horizontal the whole way