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Hello, I just acquired a Z-100A, and from what I can see, it's always in line, that is there's no "bypass" mode that connects the antenna directly to the radio without using the Z-100 matching. Is that correct? I have a Kenwood TS-890 and would like to sometimes use its internal ATU, rather than the Z-100. Can I do that "through" the Z-100? Any guidance would be much appreciated. 73, Mel - KS2G

Hi all, I have a year and a half old subject tuner I picked up last week on QRZ. Down in the CW portions I really don't need a tuner for my End Fed or V. SWR's are usually about 1.3:1, 1.5:1 or so. Trying the tuner the green LED goes out every time. Doesn't blink either. Putting it right into a 1:1 dummy load, same thing. Green LED goes right out. Per page 10 of the manual, this doesn't seem like it's working properly. Any thoughts appreciated!! Ken, W2GIW

I can't find this answered anywhere. I'm using an AT-100ProII with an ICOM 706MKII and the ICOM interface cable. Do I want the tuner button on the radio On (red light on), Off or it doesn't matter? thanks, Doug KC8ZKZ

Hi, I've got a Z-11 Pro 2 tuner that I have for backup, I'm now going to use this for a different radio so thought I'd give it a run in the shack today. I noticed a couple of odd things with it and i'm wondering if this was ever addressed with later software on the PIC. Firstly when the PIC Is woken up, either by button press or RF, I can hear the relays energize slightly for a milisecond, it's not trying to initiate a tune or anything it is as if the PIC GPIO is is driving the relays for a split second every time its woken up, this is a little annoying hearing the relays chatter for a split second on low passages of SSB. Also the MCU sleeps quite aggressively and it's difficult to get the tuner in to bypass and also to do a full/memory tune by pressing the tune button, I have to wake it up first with another button. Is there a way to take it out of powersaving/battery mode with a key combination or is there a later version of the PIC code or alternate version of the code that does not have this issue. I have a EEPROM/PIC Programmer here that I can easily use to flash the PIC 18F and I also have a PICKIT3 Any help with the above would be gratefully appreciated.

I have a LDG AT897 (non-plus) V2.0 I would like to repair. In the files section there is information, but that is for version 2.1. Looking at the schematics, there is quite some similarity but also some differences: There is a TLC0832 opamp that amplifies the Forward and Reverse voltage from the SWR bridge; There are two potmeters that seem to adjust the voltage from the SWR bridge The PIC ("897 1.7") seems to have additional debug facilites: space for a "DIAG" jumper to ground, and 3 pins labelled "serial" for debugging. The way these pins are connected means that the PIC is connected differently than the v2.1 schematic from the files section In both the v2.0 that I have and the v2.1 from the group, capacitors and inductors are switched by 7+7+1 latching relays and the relays are controlled via two UCN5812 driver chips. The AT897 "seems" to work, in that the LED does what it is supposed to do when the button is pressed. Incidentally, the relays operate, but in most cases they don't seem to do anything at all, even if I intentionally create a 1:3 SWR (I have a MFJ-251 for that). I am looking for a way to test the set/reset function of each of the relays individually, and I wonder if the "diag" jumper and/or the "serial" connector can do something. And if someone has tips repairing these I'd be interested. 73, Geert Jan PE1HZG

My well out of warranty LDG AT-200ProII more or less suddenly does its 'bolts in a barrel' thing when tuning on all frequencies for more than 15 seconds, occasionally finding a solution which then repeats the 'bolts in a barrel' process as soon as I try to answer a CQ. Thinking it was a cable and/or antenna problem, I tried tuning on 15m with the AT-200ProII off and got a 1.1 SWR from the transmitter and accomplished several QSOs. I'll admin that I came afraid to let the AT-200ProII grind for more than say 12-15 seconds but it is strange that sometimes in that period it will find a solution with a good SWR during tuning but when I try a QSO, it is back to grinding. Is it that AT-200ProII is just SOL or can it be reset or rebooted or whatever? I am good going directly on 15m but it is not so good on 20m or 10m. BTW: I am 'tuning' with the transmitter, not the tune button on the AT-200ProII. Thoughts are welcome. 73, Terry K9TAD

For the RT-100/RC-100, the instructions say not to ground the coax between the two units. How can you do that if the coax has to go through a lightning arrestor that is connected to ground?

Hello fellow LDG owners, I have been a lurker so far on this board. I have a strange question (or a few). I first own an IT-100, for my Icom 706, (later I also own the 7000 and MKIIG, but sold the 706 (gen 1)). (I also own an Icom AH-4.) Then I acquired Z100 Plus with a YCC cable, and used it with my Yaesu 891. (And I also have an ATAS100 and borrowed an ATAS120.) Recently I acquired an AT100ProII and an AT600ProII. I do not have any amp or radio that's over 100W (and don't plan on having in the near future). I also own manual tuners, QRP tuners and an SGC 239. So I have more than I need, not to mention some radios have good internal tuners. My questions are: 1. Can the IT-100 be used on non Icom radios? Since all other tuners can work with the Icom radios, (correct me if I am wrong) is it correct to say that the IT-100 is the least flexible and maybe the choice for being eliminated? If so, then maybe I'll sell it. I wonder why LDG created a model that is only for Icom at the time? 2. Is there a reason to prefer the 600 over the other models for 100W or below use? For power handling or for lower loss sake? Would it be fair to say that it's better to keep the 600 because all others can't handle 100W in high duty cycle, just in case? Although I only operate less than 100W, but who knows if I need it in an emergency. If there's no advantage or that the 100 can handle 100W very well, then I might sell the 600. Otherwise I might do the reverse. The two are very similar and I probably don't need to keep both. 3. Is there any advantage for using the IT-100 over any of the other LDG models, with an Icom radio? (Except the tune button which is not on the AT series.) I do like the Z100 Plus since it can run on batteries, so I will keep this one. As to the other 3,I am not as sure. Thus this post. Also, any technical differences among them as to design, performance, radio compatible chart, etc, are welcome to add to this thread. I own quite a wide range of radios, so a wider range of compatibility is better. Thanks in advance! 73, David VE7ET

-- I have an LDG AT-200ProII which I bought in July 2024. It has been working fine on Antenna 2 with my ZS6BKW antenna. I added another EFHW antenna to the Antenna 1 Port. When I try to switch to Antenna 1 with the "Antenna" button it switches to Bypass right away. I have moved the L and C buttons to get it off of Bypass, but it still will not switch to Antenna 1 (Antenna 2 light goes off). It will either give me Antenna 2 or Bypass, not Antenna 1. Anyone have any suggestions??? Pat k5pat

Hello, just wondering if anyone has had the problem with the unit not toggling to Ant1 (ie. both led's off). I had not used the tuner in awhile, and now it won't go to Ant1. I tried powering the unit down and starting it again, but it still won't go to Ant1. Thanks, Todd VE7CKZ

Hi, I have a problem with my LDG AT-100ProII. The tuner does not tune lower than the SWR of the antenna. The tuner stops when the SWR of the antenna is reached, for example if the SWR is 1:5 then the tuner stops tuning, if the antenna SWR is 2:0 the tuner stops at 2:0. The bottom led bar of de defect tuner does not go lower than 1:7. I have another LDG AT-100ProII and this tuner does tune as it should and I do not have that problem. I used the same setup as the working LDG AT-100ProII when i test the defective tuner. LDG sent me a new processor but the problem is not solved. I have no idea what it could be. 73's Marijn PA3FFS

Hi Maybe someone can help ? I've had this LDG AT100pro II tuner for about a year now. It has worked fine UP TO NOW. Problem is that when i short press the TUNE button to toggle the ByPass mode, the PWR and SWR Led's light up full scale and all the panel buttons become non functional. This all WITHOUT keying transmitter. Keying transmitter does not resolve the issue. I'm using a Yeasu FT891 without any control cable to the tuner. I reset the tuner by removing the power, wait 30 secs, and power up. The buttons are then responsive again. Using Func + C Dn i can confirm that the tuner is in SEMI mode. After the power reset ... - The Ant button correctly switches between antennas - The C Up, C Dn, L Up, and L Dn buttons works as expected, changing the C and L values. - The Func button itself works, with the Led display toggling between arrow up and arrow down. - Func + L Dn correctly goes through the SWR threshold values, and i set it to 2.0 - Func + L Up correctly toggles through the pwr setting which i set to 100. - Using the FUNC button with the TUNE button, both short press and long press, work as expected -When i MEDIUM press (without the Func mode) the TUNE button after a reset, the PWR Led's briefly all light up, followed by a quick sequential scan of all the Led's. In all the above, the panel buttons REMAIN FUNCTIONAL. - When i LONG press the TUNE button (without the Func mode) , after a reset to get the relay settings, the PWR Led's all light up (but not the SWR Led's) and the panel buttons go dead again - When i SHORT press the TUNE button (without the Func mode) , after a reset to toggle the BYPASS mode, the PWR Led's AND Swr Led'a all light up and the panel buttons go dead again. Again, this has cropped up recently. Can it be a memory store issue ? How can i force a factory default config reset ? Is there some firmware update ? Any hints would be appreciated. -- 73's "Rej" VA3DWH

Folks i have to say bin my life experiences of 64 years. LDG has to be in the top ten service after the sale companies i have ever dealt with. They received my tuner un Tuesday, I got notification Thursday that is was on the way back to me with the initial issue fixed and due to them being great they tested the whole machine and found problems on the front panel and replaced it. This unit is about 7 years old. I expected service but never thought I would get that kind of great service. So a huge thank you to the LDG team you guys are the best. starting with Mark when I made my initial phone call for help. You guys rock Craig Raper W4SFG

Hi people, Has anybody experience with the serial protocol of LDG Tuners? I'm working on this protocol to use the AT100ProII in remote with RCForb Server using an Arduino to control it. First of.all I have made a simple code with Arduino with KAT500 protocol and it works fine but I found the LDG protocol and tryed to make the same functionality but I have problems with the LDG protocol. I can receive the Sync character (Z) and can send the Sync string (000000000000000AzAz) on RCForb but it does not work. I have monitorized the serial port and all messages looks ok. Any experience to share? Any idea? Has anybody the AT1000 o AT600 working with RCForb? Regards!!

Since my topic is not showing, i will describe one more time . Hope somebody can explain me this : My rig (TS870s) antenna port is connected in standard way to AT-100PROII. Then tuner ANT1 output is connected to 50 Ohm dummy load. Tuner is set to ANT1 and in bypass mode. Rig is showing on entire HF band 1:1 SWR. Which is to be expected. LDG is showing me not expected values. 160m - 1:1.7 (it could be to 1.9 ... you know the bar graph) 80m,40m - one bar graph less - i.e - 1.5 to 1.7 30m - 1.5 to 1.7 starts blinking 20m - one bar graph less - i.e - 1.3 to 1.7 17m,15m,12m - 1.3 to 1.7 starts blinking 10m - one bar graph less - i.e - 1.1 to 1.3 I was expecting showing 1:1 on entire HF . Or i am wrong here ? There is one more mystery, LDG is showing me more power than my RIG. My rig is showing maybe 80 and LDG show that is 100-125 Watt. The last LED is ON... if I put the rig on full power, LDG is showing over 125W... which I do not believe, that my rig is possible to give. My rig is not capable to deliver even 100W , according the bargraph on rig. Tuner is new, bought 2 weeks ago, and since then its showing this weird values.