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I removed the relay on my 440. I found that it worked by interrupting the ground on the windlass solenoid. I just wired that directly to ground and now you can run the windlass without an engine

Photo of mine and info document. Clive Fedida 380S2 #420 Lady Caroline in Greece

Hi, i had the same problem on my 410 and i simply removed the relay that was next to my port engine, the current now flows unimpeded and this allowes me to be able to use the windlass without the

Hello I am trying to find a way to separate the windlass from the port engine. At the moment it’s original, i. e. I can only operate the windlass when the port engine is running. I know there is a

Is it typical for the fixed glass escape hatches to leak or is this a sign of impending failure? One of our escape hatches leaked on a recent upwind passage. We found the window frame full of water

They never do, do they? My appliances are likely older than yours, but if you happen to have a Miele wt2780, i have the part no for the 60hz drain pump. They are easy to change. Incidentally, for

James, As noted in my original post, we do have a washer/dryer. ?But only run it on the GenSet due to the 50/60hz issue. ?That is really the only thing that I would consider a "hassle" of having

Stuart, do you have a dishwasher or washer/dryer from Europe? If so, eventually you’ll hit docks where they’ll not drain. Run too fast and cavitate. The 208 thing makes them sometimes work, but

Yes, wiring wise can be used straight away on a 240 dock, and conversion to 110/240 is fairly straight forward. Major consideration is 220v European equipment operation in states. Many devices are

I have a 450S in 220v in the US. It is totally doable to have 220v here. ?But you do have to pay a little more attention. Things we have learned. ?Have appliances that are 220v on board to use and

I am considering a 420 lagoon that is in the states, but has 220v power. Is this a problem to use here in the states if I do not go to other areas that have 220v. Can it be converted or is there a

Hi, it's possible you have mixed up the blades from each sail drive. I contacted flexofold about a problem I had refitting props and they mentioned each prop blade set is matched. Regards Dean

Thanks for that Kingsley the props were the original ones on this occasion... still an issue??? cheers rex

Something to consider, on fitting new props to original sail drives (similar but different), our mechanic took considerable care in shimming the props so that they did not "bind" on the shafts, the

Hi all I have a 2010 440 ‘TEQUILA SUNSET’...and am on the Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia I had the Sd 50s replaced with the updated sd60s and since then have had issues with drive from the

Thanks for the info. My hatches are Goiot but as you indicate the hatch handle positively hold the lens in place. Thanks, mark

Mine have been glassed in many years ago. We don't have any hatches between the hulls.

I'll add that you should periodically inspect the rivets that hold the latch strikes to the frame for galvonic corrosion. If you replace them be sure to use tefgel on them to make them last longer.

The issue with the recall involves fixed tempered glass escape hatches that one breaks in order to use. The glass is glued in and can fall out if the sealant fails. The original escape hatches on the

Hi All, I own an early 42TPI and for years those hatches have scared the stuff out of me. Under passage in a good sea the panels just get pounded. Scary, but I just keep thinking those have been doing