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Re: SD50 problem
Tim, excellent guide !
I would like to add 1 enhancement - do not use hammer and hit direct or indirect to push back pinion gear. Can be done without punching by using screwdriver and position it to get leverage and squeeze out. In this case, no chance of breaking anything and bleed $$$$$$.? |
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Re: [LagoonOwners] SD50 problem
It is possible, albeit difficult, to install the shifter backwards when putting the shifter lever assembly back together. Having serviced the cone clutches on my L400 4 times (and helped the owner of a L450 service his), it is something that I have repeatedly had difficulties with, especially since the shifter is spring loaded and pops out upon removing the shifter lever assembly. The part is not symmetric and needs to be installed in the correct orientation, yet the diagrams in the manual do not show what is correct. Only when putting it together wrong is there slight difficulty getting the shifter lever assembly back into place, but it is possible to force it... and if forced, will make it difficult or impossible to shift into gear, or make it immediately pop out. See Figure 5 in Step 2 on Page 6 here: Also worth mentioning for all SD-50 owners: Cone clutch glazing (resulting in difficulty getting the drive to engage in gear, either forward or reverse, and sometimes inconsistently) is caused by over-filling the SD-50 with gear oil. Yanmar attempted to fix this by lengthening the "dip-stick" built into the cap (you should measure yours to make sure it is correct), but did not make it clear to owners the problems caused by over filling. During operation, the unit gets hot and fluids inside expand. When filled correctly, the air inside the unit will compress and keep pressure low. If over filled with gear oil, there is less air inside to compress and pressure increases to a point where the properties of the gear oil change and cause the oil to glaze on the surface of the clutch cone, causing it to slip. Once I figured this out and filled the unit with just enough gear oil to barely register on the dipstick, I never had another issue with cone clutches slipping. Good Luck! Tim
On Thursday, February 1, 2018, 5:27:53 AM PST, pondering_50@... [lagooncatowners] wrote:
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Hello all, |
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Re: [LagoonOwners] SD50 problem
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI had one of my SD50 slipping in reverse. ?Had a mechanic look at it, and he found the tolerances on the bearing/washer on the top was not correct. ?There was no adjustment per se, and he ground down the washer, put it back together and it has been working fine since. ?It was not fully engaging. ?Good luck.Doug Bleu Lagoon. L421 ? Doug Jackson Wishing you fair winds and following seas ? On Feb 1, 2018, at 8:25 AM, pondering_50@... [lagooncatowners] <lagooncatowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [LagoonOwners] SD50 problem
HI Y, Cone clutch or low sail drive oil will cause that. Joe Sea Of Love L440 BVI
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Re: Old sails - to keep or not to keep?
Repair & sell may not work out well. Better to sell as-is and have the next owner take care of the problems.?
I would probably patch & keep the genoa, if its the same size as the new one.? If you have a long downwind passage ahead you can hoist it into the second slot of the furler and run a twizzle rigg (two genoas, one each side). I found this to be an excellent choice when I don't want to hoist a spinnaker (say at night with sqalls around). Pretty good sail area, no chafe, less hassle than main & genoa and even the admiral can quickly reef it in a sqall. ? ? |
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Old sails - to keep or not to keep?
Dear club,
2006 440 original sails at end of life. I am in the eastern med (Marmaris, Turkey) and hope to get back home to oz, heading west over a year or two. Question is - do I have the existing sails repaired to a fair standard and retain as a spare (on the boat as cruising and no place to store when on the hop, taking up weight and space; Or Simply bin them? Or Repair and attempt to resell for a few bob. Probably not worth the hassle. Any stories of spare sails coming in handy or just an on board liability? Thanks in advance. Ian L440 hijinx |
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Re: Quick Argo Anchor Windlass Circa 2006
Thank you. ?Yes, I sort of figured I would have to figure this out the hard way. ?As a philosophical aside, I object to owning any piece of equipment I cannot service and fix myself. ?When I asked Quick about why they wouldn't offer a parts kit for their gear box (or any specifications for the seals and bearings) their response was something like "we want to assure the quality of our products" and something about how lay persons mucking about with their equipment might damage THEIR reputation(?!?). ?Sheesh. ?Cold comfort when you are making repairs in exotic locations.
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Re: Quick Argo Anchor Windlass Circa 2006
I have no experience with this particular issue. I have, however, had good luck finding parts using Motion Industries. Take any numbers you can find on the seals or bearings, they are usually an industry-standard. I replaced the bearings in my Hood Seafurl this way. Good luck.
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Hull core
sorry for the empty post before but my "send" finger was too quick I am confused... I have a 2010 specification for the Lagoon 380 and it says foam cored hull above the waterline. My own 2008 Lagoon 380 has foam cored hull sides. I haven't drilled into but after removing the locker in the head one can see the foam shine through the bare fibreglass, just as the bits of balsa trim on the edges to the uncored area. The current 2018 specification for the 380 says balsa core above the waterline. It seems they changed the hull materials?? Does anyone know the details when this happened? |
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Re: Weeping Saildrive Unit - New Lagoon 380
If the alarm doesn't sound then the gasket itself seems to be OK.
There could be a small groove in the surface of the saildrive bed so the rubber can't fully seal. Or someone drilled in the sealing area. I doubt you will see the cause without removing the upper half of the SD. That may require moving the engine a few cm forward, so its much more effort than the lower leg which is a few minutes to remove. |
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Re: [LagoonOwners] Weeping Saildrive Unit - New Lagoon 380
The leak appears to be getting around the boot because if it were into the boot, you would be getting an alarm. Perhaps they failed to adequately seal things when they installed the engine.? Bill On Tue, Jan 23, 2018 at 11:29 AM, griffinpaulj@... [lagooncatowners] <lagooncatowners@...> wrote:
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Weeping Saildrive Unit - New Lagoon 380
Hello,
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Re: [LagoonOwners] Quick Argo Anchor Windlass Circa 2006
Brandon and Jamie Wieschhaus
Mike: For problems like these, I've been having good results from a local machine/offroad shop.? The guy running the operation is a bit of a mad scientist, and with a fully-capable suite of machinery, with parts available from McMaster Carr (and others), I would say that just about anything is possible.? Local transmission shop may also work for you.? It's worth a quick phone call to these places.? If you go the DIY route, I speculate you'll need a press, since most bearings I've seen are press-fit into place. Brandon MESSING ABOUT L380 #006 On Tue, Jan 23, 2018 at 5:39 AM, vb64o2lvmpvvk3vrlluolgktgkfokdzz6elufqg6@... [lagooncatowners] <lagooncatowners@...> wrote:
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Quick Argo Anchor Windlass Circa 2006
Does anyone here have experience sourcing seals and bearings for the Quick Argo anchor windlass that the Lagoon 440 (circa 2006) came equipped with? ?We are told by Quick that although it's labeled 1500watts it's actually a 1700watt windlass. ?Ours started giving trouble last summer, and upon inspection the electric motor was fouled with an emulsion of oil and sea water coming through the gearbox. We cleaned it. ?Brushes appeared in good condition. ?Once cleaned up it ran well for a month or two, but is fouled again. Appears the seals are blown in the gearbox allowing oil and sea water to migrate into the electric motor. ?We know the bearing in the electric motor is growling too, so we would like to simply replace the seals and bearings in the gearbox and the bearing in the motor. ?QuickUSA informs us that they do not sell parts for the gearbox, but they will sell us a brand new gearbox (at a dear price). ?I am loath to basically buy a new windlass (the gearbox is more than half the cost of the entire brand new unit) when my current one appears very salvageable with some parts and a little of my time. ?Any pointers would be most appreciated. Mike SV Zingara 2006 Lagoon 440? Hull #123? |
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Re: Shades for Aft-facing windows
We have navy blue mosquito/shades that came with our L380 from a previous owner. They were made by American Marine Canvas & Upholstery(canvasandcovers.com).
For the quarter circle windows that do not open, they attach on the inside with buttons.? For the sliding window and door, they attach on the outside. The top portion is a track to connect a zipper, giving the option to leave half the zipper if the outside shade is removed. All other sides attach with buttons. Where the door is, there are zippers on each side allowing the door section to roll up and button down if you want to leave it open. Cheers, Brett Key of Sea - L380 #411 |
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Re: how does everybody divided the top door freezer on 410
thanks for all the positive replies,?
it seems what ever works for the individuals. reducing the size of the freezer is a good option.? i have a engel 40l fridge freezer and will be installing it under the front starboard bunk. this will then become my dedicated freezer. Engel are very reliable units and draw very little current compared to the 10amps for the fridge and freezer on start up. this will mean i? will have to get under the bunk for items but as it will be the freezer, this will not be a big hardship. This will allow the top loading fridge/freezer to be cold storage for drinks juices etc as steve says the vertical fridge works very well but sometime you really have to get down on the floor to reach the back of the unit. i placed small plastic fridge containers with open tops. 2 fit the width of the fridge and 2 deep. this allows us to have like items together and stops the rolling around of everything. i will post a picture to the next few days. paul elangeni |
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