Re: 110v 240v Electrial advice sought
All you need is a 110/240 transformer. They usually can be configured to go either way. So your 110 system stays intact. Just plug thw washer into the 240 side of the transformer.
BTW, when you're at a 240 marina you can also use a sufficiently large transformer for the boat to feed it 110.
Bruce
2011 L400 240 with some 110 tools, etc.
Apia, Samoa
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110v 240v Electrial advice sought
Hi Lagoon community. Hoping someone can assist.
I have a Lagoon 440 wired for 110volt complete with Onan 11kva genset, 80A Dolphin battery charger, Enag 115VAC 2000w inverter and 1050aH gel house bank. I live in Australia...240v country.
Here is the challenge.... I have installed a 240v 50Hz washer (Note here that I probably would have spent more time trying to find a 110v version other than someone advised I could switch the genset between 110v and 240v at a flick of a switch...not possible) and I have considered converting the boat to 240v however all the ac units and water heater element are 110v.
I have a paltry 240 watts solar on the coach roof and thinking of upping the ante on solar with some on the davits. I also want to install a water maker which is avail in 110 or 240v.
To run my washer and future desal should I be looking at drawing from the house bank with a separate 240v inverter whilst the genset is on pumping 80watts in from the Dolphin charger or is there a means of coming straight from the genset delivering 110v 60Hz and converting that to 240v 50Hz. If a separate 240v inverter is required can anyone re commend a brand and model. The washer requires 1850w and the future desal 1600w continuous.
Thanks in advance.
Milan
Blue Pearl
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Antifouling for lagoon 420
Any suggestions about which brand to used for our Cata and how many gallons we may need
Any ideas also about electric toilet ( jebco??)
Which brand you may suggest us
This is our first Cata
And we love it
French flag
Allons -Y?based in west palm beach Florida
Cruising to smx mid nov one cabin available stoping. to few islands
Welcome on board
Bienvenue
Lisa /philippe
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Re: I know it is July, but winterizing...
ah, the old vodka myth. a handle, 1.75l of the cheapest vokda is $10usd. so about $20 a gallon. I can buy the pink stuff for $3/gallon. But maybe it is worth the difference not to have to spend a few hours flushing the
anti freeze....
I would like to use the air compressor, that is what my post was about, but I am asking fellow lagoon owners a)if they have ever done that, and b)if so how. You need to make sure the tank is completely empty, I don't
know how to do that, and need to essentially get a fitting for the air compressor into the beginning of the line, where it connects to the tank. Was simple to do on my mono.
Needs to be good to -5F.?
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Do not know how my last post has appeared in Bold and Large can see no formatting in what I posted.
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Paul Rogers . Lagoon 450F #233 2013 East Coast of Oz
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Re: I know it is July, but winterizing...
On our Lagoon 421 sailing on the Great Lakes – she goes on the hard for the winter.? For us: - First – drain the hot water tank and then bypass it by either moving the hoses or better yet re-plum it so you can just turn a valve.
- I run the tanks dry
- I connect compressed air to the deck inlet with appropriate fittings and put in about 20 pounds of air. (We have a craftsman 2-gallon air compressor I bring to the boat for this chore)
- Open all the facets one by one – a couple of times each till clear air flows
- But I still go back and run a bit (1/2 gallon) of “red pop” into the deck water inlet, start the water pump, and run it to one facet.? I’m afraid the pump itself, the strainer, the accumulator and manifold could still have a bit of water in them and cause breakage. ?
- Also, I leave the shower facets lying on the floor, so no water will get caught in the hose.
This has worked well for us.? But you still have a bit of red pop that has to be run out in the spring.? But using that same facet you minimize the amount flowing through the entire system. After thorough flushing, then remove the hot water by-pass – you don’t want any red pop in the water heater – it will take forever to get it all out then.? (Don’t turn on the hot water heater when its bypassed – surely will kill the heater tube). ? ? Doug Jackson Bleu Lagoon L421 1262 Crooked Tree Ct Westerville, OH? 43081 614-519-6996 doug@... Wishing you fair winds and following seas ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Scott Jay
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2018 4:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [lagooncatowners] I know it is July, but winterizing... ? ? ?A few questions on winterizing water tanks, and water tanks themselves.
1. Is there a special tool to open the inspection port on the water tank. This a few inch wide red threaded plug on my blue plastic tanks. It has an indented cross in it so you can put something in to turn it. I tried to make a bit to fit in there out of wood with some vice grips, only broke off the wood. Didn't budge the plug at all. Assuming some thread lock. How does one open this inspection port?!?
2. I normally empty the tanks then fill with pink antifreeze and run through. Then spend hours in the spring flushing out the antifreeze so my water tastes just OK. Many still won't drink it. I have a pretty good method of getting the pink stuff out, but the better method is not to put pink stuff in, but rather completely drain the tanks, then blow all the water out of the lines. Has anyone successfully done this on a lagoon that has multiple tanks, multiple faucets, an accumulator, and manifold. My water tanks are in the forward nacelle locker in front of the mast. Almost impossible to get to the main feed line down in there under the tank. Without being able to wet vac out the entire tank, I don't believe by running the water pumps you can really drain the tank so there is no water in tank to go back into the lines.
Anyway, hope for someone to comment on if they have done this method of prepping the boat. For those where the boat never gets into freezing temps, keep smiling.
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Great idea! If you’ve got strong padeyes low enough to take the upwards loading, this is probably simplest. the lower they are, the lower the stress on them to resist the vertical load.
I’m a fan of bowsprits that can be remove or pivoted in some manner to reduce LOA (and make one less thing for someone to hit in a marina)
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On Jul 12, 2018, at 2:46 PM, PaulinOz < rogersp@...> wrote:
Another option would be bolt on a standard Bow Spit flexible fitting to the fore-stay chain Plate.
Add pad eyes and rigging to each hull and rig as per a more conventional Bow Spit.
Picture is an after market bow spit I added to my L450 would just as easily bolt to the stainless plate
as it does to the cross beam. I guess it will come down to what is the most cost effective.Paul Rogers . Lagoon 450F #233 2013 East Coast of Oz
<bow sprit.jpg>
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-Rob H
Pacific NW, USA
No sailing vessel at the moment
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Another option would be bolt on a standard Bow Spit flexible fitting to the fore-stay chain Plate. Add pad eyes and rigging to each hull and rig as per a more conventional Bow Spit. Picture is an after market bow spit I added to my L450 would just as easily bolt to the stainless plate as it does to the cross beam. I guess it will come down to what is the most cost effective,
Paul Rogers . Lagoon 450F #233 2013 East Coast of Oz
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Re: I know it is July, but winterizing...
Freeze points - remember vodka is (?) 80 proof (US measure), so 40% alcohol
Anecdotal: we use cheap vodka to wipe down the outside of the freeze container for our compressor-driven ice cream maker - otherwise a little bit of condensation means it freezes into the machine and cannot be removed until your oh-so-anticipated fresh ice cream has melted back to sludge.
Ethanol based Water Solutions Freezing Point| Freezing Point |
|---|
Ethanol Concentration
(% by?volume) | 0 | 10 | 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | 60 | 70 | 80 | 90 | 100 |
|---|
| Temperature | (oF) | 32 | 25 | 15 | 5 | -10 | -25 | -35 | -55 | -75 | -110 | -175 | | (oC) | 0 | -4 | -9 | -15 | -23 | -32 | -37 | -48 | -59 | -73 | -115
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and as a graphic:
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On Jul 12, 2018, at 2:38 PM, Rob Hepler < rob@...> wrote:
half a gallon of vodka in tank and run it through? ?Catch the flow !!
How cold do you need to protect against?
Or you could add a fitting in your lines and use a little air compressor to blow them empty, like a sprinkler system
Better yet.. never live where water gets hard ;-)
-Rob On Jul 12, 2018, at 1:34 PM, Scott Jay < jbinbi@...> wrote:
? ?A few questions on winterizing water tanks, and water tanks themselves.
1. Is there a special tool to open the inspection port on the water tank. This a few inch wide red threaded plug on my blue plastic tanks. It has an indented cross in it so you can put something in to turn it. I tried to make a bit to fit in there out of wood with some vice grips, only broke off the wood. Didn't budge the plug at all. Assuming some thread lock. How does one open this inspection port?!?
2. I normally empty the tanks then fill with pink antifreeze and run through. Then spend hours in the spring flushing out the antifreeze so my water tastes just OK. Many still won't drink it. I have a pretty good method of getting the pink stuff out, but the better method is not to put pink stuff in, but rather completely drain the tanks, then blow all the water out of the lines. Has anyone successfully done this on a lagoon that has multiple tanks, multiple faucets, an accumulator, and manifold. My water tanks are in the forward nacelle locker in front of the mast. Almost impossible to get to the main feed line down in there under the tank. Without being able to wet vac out the entire tank, I don't believe by running the water pumps you can really drain the tank so there is no water in tank to go back into the lines.
Anyway, hope for someone to comment on if they have done this method of prepping the boat. For those where the boat never gets into freezing temps, keep smiling.
--
-Rob H
Pacific NW, USA
No sailing vessel at the moment
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Re: I know it is July, but winterizing...
half a gallon of vodka in tank and run it through? ?Catch the flow !!
How cold do you need to protect against?
Or you could add a fitting in your lines and use a little air compressor to blow them empty, like a sprinkler system
Better yet.. never live where water gets hard ;-)
-Rob
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On Jul 12, 2018, at 1:34 PM, Scott Jay < jbinbi@...> wrote:
? ?A few questions on winterizing water tanks, and water tanks themselves.
1. Is there a special tool to open the inspection port on the water tank. This a few inch wide red threaded plug on my blue plastic tanks. It has an indented cross in it so you can put something in to turn it. I tried to make a bit to fit in there out of wood with some vice grips, only broke off the wood. Didn't budge the plug at all. Assuming some thread lock. How does one open this inspection port?!?
2. I normally empty the tanks then fill with pink antifreeze and run through. Then spend hours in the spring flushing out the antifreeze so my water tastes just OK. Many still won't drink it. I have a pretty good method of getting the pink stuff out, but the better method is not to put pink stuff in, but rather completely drain the tanks, then blow all the water out of the lines. Has anyone successfully done this on a lagoon that has multiple tanks, multiple faucets, an accumulator, and manifold. My water tanks are in the forward nacelle locker in front of the mast. Almost impossible to get to the main feed line down in there under the tank. Without being able to wet vac out the entire tank, I don't believe by running the water pumps you can really drain the tank so there is no water in tank to go back into the lines.
Anyway, hope for someone to comment on if they have done this method of prepping the boat. For those where the boat never gets into freezing temps, keep smiling.
--
-Rob H
Pacific NW, USA
No sailing vessel at the moment
|
I know it is July, but winterizing...
? ?A few questions on winterizing water tanks, and water tanks themselves.
1. Is there a special tool to open the inspection port on the water tank. This a few inch wide red threaded plug on my blue plastic tanks. It has an indented cross in it so you can put something in to turn it. I tried to make a bit to fit in there out of wood with some vice grips, only broke off the wood. Didn't budge the plug at all. Assuming some thread lock. How does one open this inspection port?!?
2. I normally empty the tanks then fill with pink antifreeze and run through. Then spend hours in the spring flushing out the antifreeze so my water tastes just OK. Many still won't drink it. I have a pretty good method of getting the pink stuff out, but the better method is not to put pink stuff in, but rather completely drain the tanks, then blow all the water out of the lines. Has anyone successfully done this on a lagoon that has multiple tanks, multiple faucets, an accumulator, and manifold. My water tanks are in the forward nacelle locker in front of the mast. Almost impossible to get to the main feed line down in there under the tank. Without being able to wet vac out the entire tank, I don't believe by running the water pumps you can really drain the tank so there is no water in tank to go back into the lines.
Anyway, hope for someone to comment on if they have done this method of prepping the boat. For those where the boat never gets into freezing temps, keep smiling.
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so back to the original poster’s question… It appears if you want a bowsprit, you have some options:
1. using a full penetration weld, attached appropriate tube to outside of existing plate, or 2. remove existing (hidden) tube, bore through plate, insert full length tube and weld to seal and hold them in alignment
Both would require tying off your forestay and removing the chainplate/tube combo
3. However… if you can find a good rigging engineer, you might want to look at boring through plate at the inner diameter of the tube and having a nice carbon tube made to slip in there. ?In theory, you are not removing any steel that is loaded by the rigging, but you will want to make sure the weld on the upper part of the plate is a full penetration weld as it will be more critical now (less material around tube at mid-point to transfer load to lower half weld)
4. even crazier and cooler: replace the whole setup with a custom composite piece - see some of the newer multis and their composite “chainplate” replacements - an integral part of the hull, not a plate at all. No rust !!
-Rob Who added a signature, but (not unexpectedly) the software puts it WAY at the bottom
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On Jul 12, 2018, at 7:29 AM, Paul < pwagsc@...> wrote:
On my 420, hull #57, it extends aft about 20" to another bulkhead in the nacelle where it is held in position by a metal collar.
_._,_._,_
--
-Rob H
Pacific NW, USA
No sailing vessel at the moment
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On my 420, hull #57, it extends aft about 20" to another bulkhead in the nacelle where it is held in position by a metal collar.
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Re: bottom paint removal questions lagoon 380
380 s2.?yard 2 years ago used 3 gallons of?Sea Hawk Biocop TF . I am actually surprised it was 3 gallons, I have heard others say 2 gallons... I am in the Northeast, boat left in the water over the winter. Had a
diver clean the bottom a week ago and said it looked 'really' good for it's second year, and suggests that I use this paint again. Will do bottom next may after 2.5 years. As others have said, do the sail drives with the specialty stuff! No idea what the surface
area of the paintable bottom is.?
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You,re spot on Paul. The stainless tube extends about 400mm back and slips into a cup that is bolted to the bulkhead that forms the front of the chain locker. I'll attempt to attach a photo.
Andy Reid
L420 Gabian
Bonaire
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Re: bottom paint removal questions lagoon 380
I think the underwater area is 44 sqr m, approx 475 sqr ft.
Mine is probably a bit more as I had the antifouling line raised a couple of inches because she sits low in the water due to all the extra weight she has accumulated over the years (a bit like me really)
--
Peter Ablett
Salila
Lagoon 380 S2 No 469
Boat currently in Sardinia
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Re: bottom paint removal questions lagoon 380
I take it by renewing the surface you mean to blast off all the antifouling down to the fibreglass substrate. An epoxy coating should then be applied. It is then a good idea to apply the antifouling undercoat when the epoxy is a little bit past “tacky” that will guarantee good adhesion. Replacing the thru hull fittings if they have not been replaced in the past 7 years is good advice.
Frank Aquilina
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On 12 Jul 2018, at 4:02 pm, scottietracey via Groups.Io < scottietracey@...> wrote: Moisture test around your thru hulls.?
If water line thru hulls are the old plastic ones replace with the newer more reliable versions.? Scott Tracey William & Molly YOLLATA. Lagoon 440. #148 FOR SALE in NEW ZEALAND Dream Believe Create Succeed
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Re: bottom paint removal questions lagoon 380
Moisture test around your thru hulls.?
If water line thru hulls are the old plastic ones replace with the newer more reliable versions.? Scott Tracey William & Molly YOLLATA. Lagoon 440. #148 FOR SALE in NEW ZEALAND Dream Believe Create Succeed
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bottom paint removal questions lagoon 380
we are considering having the surface renewed on our year lagoon 380. ? St John Boat Company Jacksonville, Florida has invested in sponge blasting equipment which is 'greener' for the environment and gentler to the hull. ?
two questions
1. They price on square footage, so what is the surface area of the painted surface of a lagoon 380's' bottom?
2. What should we be looking / asking for to help get a good estimate on a 18 year old boat?
tim and tracey ramsey
s/v folie a deux
Lagoon 380 hull #47
year 2000
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Looking at that picture, I’m pretty sure that bowsprit tube also extends
behind the plate and into the structure.
I suspect you are correct Rob, found these picture from a repair 7 years ago and it appears to show a S/S tube extending rewards through the nacelle and fore stay attachment plate.
I do not remember or have pictures as to what happened with the tube then.
From memory the Glass Lay up at the front which the tube passes through and the fore stay attachment bolts to was in the region of 30mm thick.
I will be near the boat in a week or two, if it is of any use, I can try to get aboard and get a photo of the tube extending rewards. I do not want to do this just for academic interest but if you are serious about building one of these Vicky I will see what I can do.
I own it, but It is a bare boat charter vessel and is booked out continuously for next couple of months.
--
Paul Rogers . Lagoon 450F #233 2013 East Coast of Oz
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