Via USB, but there is a BT version (about 10 times the price, but then the price was < ?2)
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It actually has five 'controls' (turn right, turn left, press, press-turn right, press-turn left.) these can be mapped in engine driver to any functions you want, but the obvious is right=speed up, left = slow down, press=toggle forward/back, leaving two for other functions.
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Your idea is exactly what I was hoping for, but the beeps kill it currently.??
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You still need the phone/tablet to select the loco to control though (unless press-turn could be rigged to scroll through available locos).? This plus a phone? together would definitely make good UI to engine driver if only I could stop the blessed beeps!