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Locked Re: FW: FW: Panel hardware


 

Great, thanks. I, too, bought a bunch of cheap Chinese ones and they
wernt any better quality than the ones I got at the local Radio Shack
when it closed.



On 8/7/2017 4:54 PM, 'Mark Juett' modelrailroadbuilder@...
[jmriusers] wrote:

Bob,

Yes many of the little push buttons are unreliable. On recommendation of a
friend I bought a large quality from We Hxoxoxo in China. I had several
split open. It was no bargain.

I have since gone to Grayhill 706-30-601RED for just above $2 each and
have
had no issues since.

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: jmriusers@... [mailto:jmriusers@...]
Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 3:33 PM
To: jmriusers@...
Subject: Re: FW: [jmriusers] Panel hardware

What about for pushbuttons? Those tiny ones that are around are very
unreliable.

On 8/7/2017 4:24 PM, 'Mark Juett' modelrailroadbuilder@...
[jmriusers] wrote:

Billybob,

You are correct in that Mike B does not provide much electronics. His
forte
is the casted metal levers and plates. Likewise Rick R provides the
molded
plastic reproduction parts. They do however, recommend parts that
you can
buy from most electronic suppliers.

Several years ago Rick suggested the Alpha 10YD062 rotary switch
available
from www.Mouser.com It has been replaced by 105-SR2511F-62FN.
Unfortunately
the min on this is 1000. Although the cut over is at 30 degrees it is a
multi-position and 2 clicks get 60 deg. Not perfect.

However, the 105-SR2511F-62FN is a Grayhill single deck 2 position SPDT,
rated at 200 ma, 28V, DC 115VAC, with a 60 degree rotation. Only
$11.58 in
single quantities. From there prices go up. It has a lug connection
but not
easily soldered. The data sheet shows a solder lug style available.

For controlling signals you will need a 3 position switch. Grayhill
105-SR2511F-62FN is similar in a 3 position. Same price.

I have not taken the time to do an exhaustive search of Mouser to
find the
perfect match but it may be there amongst the many parts that they
have. If
you come up with something let us know. As I get some time I will
search, as
I have plans to build a reproduction CTC machine (USS&S).

Mark Juett

From: jmriusers@... [mailto:jmriusers@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 6, 2017 11:01 PM
To: jmriusers@...
Subject: Re: [jmriusers] Panel hardware

There are some limits to what CTCParts.com can provide.

CTCParts.com specializes in the "plates" one uses on a CTC machine.
This is
where Mike's product offerings excel.

In general, Mike doesn't offer much in the way of electronics things
like
rotary switches, pushbuttons, or lamps. One exception is a pushbutton
which
mimics the "feel" of a US&S pushbutton.

What are the alternatives?

For these "common" electronics components, your best bet is likely
to be a
general-purpose electronics supplier. In the US, some suppliers include
Mouser.com, Digikey.com, All-electronics.com.

Rotary switches with 60 degree rotation (for US&S machines) or 90 degree
rotation (for GRS machines) can be tough to find off-the-shelf. They
do show
up occasionally. And Mouser and Digikey have often "mis-cataloged" a
manufacturer's parts as 30 degree when they really were 60 degree or 90
degree, so it helps to spend the time looking at manufacturer's
specs for
the various part numbers cataloged by the supplier.

Last time I looked, Digikey and Mouser did not have any stock for 60
degree-indexed switches, but could provide 60 degree rotary switches for
orders of 2000 parts.

Tomar Inc., of Benton Harbor, MI, provides (or provided) some cast-brass
inserts which can be used in some "open" styles of commercial rotary
switches to convert a 30 degree-indexed rotary switch to 60 degree
indexing
or 90 degree indexing. Tomar also has produced US&S-like "knobs", but I
think that they no longer produce the knobs.

An alternative is to purchase "Alpha" brand enclosed 30 degree-indexed
rotary switches, and modify for 60 degree or 90 degree indexing.
I've done
this by filling in one or two consecutive "indents" in the rotary switch
shell with epoxy. The trick is to open the thing without losing the
spring
or ball-bearings. And to put the spring and bearings back into the
shell and
reassemble it, without losing the parts.

I do not have any particular recommendations for
lampholders/bezels/lenses
or for pushbuttons.

Regards,
Billybob

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