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New again to me 89 restoration


 
Edited

Long long story short, I’ve known this bike since new. A good friend of mine bought this bike new in 91 and I bought his old bike. 10 years later, I bought it off of him and drove it for the next ten years then I gave it back to him. Fast forward another 10 years and only 500 miles later, he gives it back to me. ?I was hoping this was going to be a quick new battery and carb clean and back on the road but it is in a lot worse shape than when I gave it to him. Needless to say, there’s a bit of restoration needing to take place. Some of the paint is chipping off so it’s going to get a full respray on the plastics keeping the original color. The choke cable is broken and the only way I found an intact one was to buy a complete set of carbs. Those will get rebuilt and balanced. New fuel filter and hoses, rebuild master cylinders and brakes, spark plugs, oil, filters, coolant, thermostat, tires, wheel refinishing, LED light replacement except for turning lights are just a few things on the list. As it gets torn down further, I’m sure the list will continue to grow.?

After a quick rinse when I got it home.?

I realized how long ago I owned this bike. I added a mirror so I could fix my hair before work. Don’t really need that any more.?

Half torn apart.?


Hober Mallow
 

I just got a bike I sold back similar to you, but without the heritage. On yours, take a good look at the carb insulators; new ones made by K&L are reasonably priced. Also check for leaky fork seals, and if they are, consider putting progressive springs in while you've got it opened up.

Nice 89, mine has 10,001 miles on it. Brake and clutch fluid had turned to brown Vaseline after sitting a number of years.


 

Got the rest of the plastic off today. I installed a USB with volt meter in the trunk as I don’t want to drill into any of the painted plastics. I have ordered other USB cables to run throughout the bike for other accessories if I need to add them in the future. I do have to replace the fork seals so if anyone has the Honda part number for those that would be great. I never really has an issue with comfort on the bike but would like to hear those who have experience on stock and progressive springs ?chime in on their experiences with them.?

I’m waiting on many parts to come in but I had spark plugs and the petcock rebuild kit so I knocked those two projects off the list.?

All naked.?

I’m going to add an inline switch so if I’m not going to be riding for a week or two, I can shut off the parasitic draw.?

I had to buy a whole carburetor just to get a functional choke cable but theses are in better shape than mine anyway. The rebuild kit arrives tomorrow.


I put the other tires on in 2002. ?They are hard as a rock. Went with the Dunlaps since I know 100% they fit my 1989 and they were quite affordable and available right on Amazon.?


 

On Apr 10, 2022, at 4:55 PM, Wertles <Chriswerth72@...> wrote:

I’m going to add an inline switch so if I’m not going to be riding for a week or two, I can shut off the parasitic draw.
You think the battery will power that voltmeter a whole week? I don't. Put the usb/voltmeter on a switched circuit that goes on/off with the ignition key.

--
David Kelly N4HHE, dkelly@...
============================================================
Whom computers would destroy, they must first drive mad.


 

I have this USB charger/volt meter on my scooter with a much smaller battery. I can go a month between rides and it doesn’t ?drain the battery. I want to be able to charge a phone or Go Pro battery without having to have the key on.?


Hober Mallow
 

I restored a 95 last year with 81K miles on it. When I went for its first test ride, the forks bottomed pretty solidly on our rock and gravel mountain road. I installed progressive springs from Traxxion Dynamics ($139.99) and that took care of the bottoming. Fork seal set (oil seal and dust seal) part number is 51490-MN8-305, $25.51 from www.servicehonda.com.


 

There are progressive springs and there are Progressive springs. There is a company named ‘Progressive’ which supplies motorcycle suspension parts. There is also a type of spring winding that provides a spring with different spring rates under different loads and springs with this type of winding are called progressive springs.
So you can get progressive springs that are not Progressive springs.
The stock Honda springs are progressive but they are not Progressive springs.?
I would like to know what the spring rates of the Honda springs are. Progressive publish the spring rates for their springs.

Probably worth considering that when people replace their fork springs they also replace the fork oil. How much of the improvement they report is due to the springs and how much is due to the fresh fork oil? I suspect that fork oil degrades a lot quicker than steel springs.
Here is a link to the progressive springs recommended by Progressive for my PC.




 

You Schul be abel to finde the Honda sparepart number on this pdf.




s?n. 10. apr. 2022 23.55 skrev Wertles <Chriswerth72@...>:

Got the rest of the plastic off today. I installed a USB with volt meter in the trunk as I don’t want to drill into any of the painted plastics. I have ordered other USB cables to run throughout the bike for other accessories if I need to add them in the future. I do have to replace the fork seals so if anyone has the Honda part number for those that would be great. I never really has an issue with comfort on the bike but would like to hear those who have experience on stock and progressive springs ?chime in on their experiences with them.?

I’m waiting on many parts to come in but I had spark plugs and the petcock rebuild kit so I knocked those two projects off the list.?

All naked.?

I’m going to add an inline switch so if I’m not going to be riding for a week or two, I can shut off the parasitic draw.?

I had to buy a whole carburetor just to get a functional choke cable but theses are in better shape than mine anyway. The rebuild kit arrives tomorrow.


I put the other tires on in 2002.? They are hard as a rock. Went with the Dunlaps since I know 100% they fit my 1989 and they were quite affordable and available right on Amazon.?


 

After a few busy weeks of life, I finally got back to the bike project. I warmed it up and changed the oil. It looked really good coming out but it was probably at least 8 years old if not 10 so it had to go. Next was the rear gear oil. That definitely needed changing. After dropping it, I filled it back up with diesel fuel a few times to clean it out really well then filled it up with the oil. A few weeks ago, I found new in packaging coolant hoses and clamps for a really good price so I started the cooling system refresh. The coolant was NASTY. I replaced all coolant lines except for the small rear hose. If someone knows how to get to that hose, let me know. I ran out of time today to figure that out. ?I replaced the thermostat and cap with the ?Duralast parts and filled it up with distilled water because I’m going to flush the system out a few times before putting in the good stuff.?

Up next will be rebuilding the carbs, replace the boots and cam plugs. Hopefully with the carbs off, I can get the engine covers off and get to the last coolant hose.?


 

After coolant hose swap, time to flush the coolant system. Here is the progression from initial dump to subsequent distilled water changes. The last one after the pics was perfectly clear and clean. Next on the list is to rebuild the carbs and cam plug change.


 

You have to find someone with Japanese sized fingers to do that small hose at the back.? 12 year old is just about the right size.


 

Me having small/medium hands does have that one advantage. :P I have a bud that is 6-5 and has huge hands. and another that it 5-9 and has wide thick palms. I am right in the middle and have these smallish hands. Genetics are weird.

--
______________________________________________________________________________

"...probability factor of one to one...we have normality, I repeat we have normality....Anything you still can’t cope with is therefore your own problem."


 

Getting more of the mechanicals done this weekend. I rebuilt the new to me set of carbs I got off of ebay. They looked good but we’re completely gummed up. It took a few cans of cleaner along with the ultrasonic cleaner to get all the passages and holes cleared out. I took apart the carbs on the bike just to see their condition. They look like they were stored under a desert for the last 100 years. I have no idea how this bike even started, let alone ran. While the carbs are off, I pulled the heat shields and changed the last water hose, replaced the leaking cam plugs and intake boots. This should be the last of the engine maintenance. Can’t wait to get the carbs back on to see how it runs now! ?Before the covers go back on, I will take it and have them synced.?


 

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For all the work you have?done already balancing the carbs is cake. Somewhere in here is a discussion of how to do this using a clear tube with some fluid for balance. Can't remember what I used for fluid.


 

After a busy summer of other projects, I have jumped back on the PC project. I removed and dissembled the wheels and took them to my buddy who refinished wheels so hopefully they get back to an OEM finish along with new tires. After much hassle, the calipers, slave and masters have all been rebuilt. I ordered new brake and clutch lines from Speigler USA and even though the website listed 1990-1998, I called and was assured they would fit my 1989. Well, the clutch line fits perfectly, but I can’t seem to find the correct layout to get them to fit properly. It’s as if the lines running to the calipers are 90 degrees off. I am open to any suggestions otherwise a call to Speigler tomorrow is in order.?

I will be doing a mostly LED conversion. ?Only the turn signal bulbs will stay because I don’t want to lose the self cancelling feature. Any clue if the turn indicator lights on the dash need to stay or can those be converted to LED without issues??

Tomorrow I will be tackling rebuilding the forks with the addition progressive springs. I know I watched a video on a good way to replace the seals using PVC but I haven’t found it yet this evening.?


 
Edited

I replaced my instrument lights and I believe the turn signal indicators with LEDs on my 89 and they still self cancel.? I did not change the incandescent turn signal lamps themselves? for the same reason you indicated.? I like the self canceling.? Oops.? I typed 80 instead of 89.? it is an 89
--
Phil in Northwest Arkansas


 

I converted all dashboard lights to LED until I noticed the High Beam light is way too bright in the night with a LED.
So, I put a normal light back in. The others are great with LEDs.?






On Mon, Dec 5, 2022, 5:28 PM Wertles <Chriswerth72@...> wrote:

After a busy summer of other projects, I have jumped back on the PC project. I removed and dissembled the wheels and took them to my buddy who refinished wheels so hopefully they get back to an OEM finish along with new tires. After much hassle, the calipers, slave and masters have all been rebuilt. I ordered new brake and clutch lines from Speigler USA and even though the website listed 1990-1998, I called and was assured they would fit my 1989. Well, the clutch line fits perfectly, but I can’t seem to find the correct layout to get them to fit properly. It’s as if the lines running to the calipers are 90 degrees off. I am open to any suggestions otherwise a call to Speigler tomorrow is in order.?

I will be doing a mostly LED conversion.? Only the turn signal bulbs will stay because I don’t want to lose the self cancelling feature. Any clue if the turn indicator lights on the dash need to stay or can those be converted to LED without issues??

Tomorrow I will be tackling rebuilding the forks with the addition progressive springs. I know I watched a video on a good way to replace the seals using PVC but I haven’t found it yet this evening.?


 

So the Speigler brake lines are awesome. They have swivel heads on them so with the supplied tool, I was able to get them all mounted perfect. The brake master despite the rebuild, still would not move fluid so I ordered another off of eBay and hopefully it will be here in a couple of days and then the whole brake system is new.?

Today I was able to rebuild the front forks with OEM seals and new progressive springs. I used 375cc of 10wt fork oil per manufacturer recommendations. It’s been 12 years since I drove this bike so I have no recollection of how it rode before so I won’t be able to tell if it’s an upgraded ride or not.?


 

The top spring in the above pic is OEM, the bottom is the new progressive spring. If anyone needs the OEM springs, pay for shipping and let me know ASAP and they are yours, otherwise, they will be in the trash in a couple of days.?


 

On Mon, Dec 5, 2022 at 09:40 PM, stefan_grotegut wrote:
the High Beam light is way too bright in the night with a LED.
So, I put a normal light back in. The others are great with LEDs
Now that you mention it, I think I did the same thing and put an incandescent back in the high beam indicator.? The back lighting with the LEDs was much nicer.
?
--
Phil in Northwest Arkansas