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Hello, here Jorge, Lu1da, i have my 7000 for a month, replacing my old and dear IC706mk2g, and I am very happy. Hope to enjoy the same way with this transceiver. 73 from Argentina de LU1DA

Is there any way to improve the accuracy? In a 24 hour period it loses about a minute. Ed KE6SU

Hi Team, A few days ago, I connected my IC-7K to the PS using an extension cable, not noticing I was reversing the polarity. A few seconds later, I felt a smell coming from somewhere and I inmediately disconnected it. There was no smoke but a bit of a smell. The unit was a bit warm in the back but nothing I couldn't hold with my bare hand. After a while, I decided to reconnect the unit to the PS, making sure I was respecting the polarity. I turned it on and, to my surprise, it behaved as if nothing had happened. The couple diodes connected between +12V and ground saved the life of many components in the 7000... and my wallet. I wonder... Should I check something else? I believe the smell came from the insulation of the extension cable I used to plug the unit, for it was a small diameter cable; I only needed to use the 7000 for listening. Your comments will be welcome. 73 de Raoul CE3RY

Hello, this is Chris KQ6UP. I have my IC-7k since 2006. This thing has taken' a licken' and it keeps on tickin'. I have some questions about the 6 pin DIN in the back. I don't seem to be getting any transmitter power out using a known good interface. Suggestions? -Chris KQ6UP

Good evening all I have scoured the forum but cannot find a definitive solution to my problem.... forgive me if this has already been covered and I missed it. I have a 7k and want to interface it with a Rigblaster Advantage, to be controlled by HRD, but I am stumped in regards to what cable to use, from the 7k, to the Rigblaster Advantage. I have seen a mono to stereo cable as well as a 6 pin Din plug being mentioned on the Internet but the dew posts I have read are somewhat cryptic. Both the 7k and the Rigbladter Advsntage are recent addition to my shack and any help getting them interfaced with each other will be greatly appreciated. My main rig is the 7300 so this a new realm for me. 73s Don - M0CVZ

I managed to kill Hsend and Vsend on My IC-7000 maybe by shorting the 13.8 V on pin 8 to pin 3 on the 13 pin accessory plug. Pin 3 and pin 8 show around -4 volts on both receive and transmit. Has anyone had to repair this problem? What is involved in the repair? Sent this IC-7000 to MI Icom repair service he pronounced it working. Still does not work! Sent to him twice explaining in detail my problem He could not find the problem and sent it back. Sent to Toledo MTS same result. Both are/were ICOM techs repair centers. There must be some standard testing procedure from ICOM that is not showing my problem. Help! John, N0JA

Had other chokes wrapped it once through before the head and whala!! Problem fixed and 1KW out on all bands! Thanks for all the replies and taking the time. 73- W1JCW John

Hey guys I had this fine rig installed previously for many years with no RF issues but that was without the remote kit. Now that I have the remote kit setup RF is getting into the radio and shutting it down when I run my amp and on 40m with no amp. I placed chokes before the head and at the radio before entry and no luck, no matter which band when I have the amp online just a small amount of RF with low drive shuts it down. Any ideas for problem solving? Antenna is a Hi Q 6" coil on the rear corner of the truck. 73- W1JCW John Join my new SteppIR Antennas IO group by sending an email to: [email protected]

Hi all, today my display stated wiggling laterally on tx, but only on 14 MHz, and only when I keyed (I'm pretty much CW only). I tried lowering power but no change. Has anyone experienced this? Any thoughts? Many thanks, Colin N2TQT

Hi All, Looking for a OPC- 1443 or 1444 separation kit cable. Thanks. Best-- --Hugh Hugh Aodh O'Brien haobrien@... 1-818-519-1236

Hugh, Originals are hard to find and expensive when found. DL5AL makes an OPC-1443 alternative which I bought from him for EUR 71.88 in 2021 via is Ebay store. On that version the mounting bracket MB-105 is not needed. I am very happy with it. His contact info is: support@... https://dm5al.de/ https://dm5al.de/projects/ Email him and ask when he can make you one. 73, Jim WI6X

I just got word that my IC-7000 needs a PA board. If anyone is looking for a parts IC-7000 with separation cable make me an offer.

I have managed to change something that when I transmit I have whistle feedback noise. Any suggestions? Ed KE6SU

Has anyone recorded the proper voltages under any condition at IC1601, particularly pins 8, 9 and 10. And the area of Q1604? If so, thanks!

Hi all, I'm looking for some help with my IC7000. I apologize for being wordy, it's in my nature and I can't help it. I'll provide a little background, in case it's relevant. If not, just skip to the problem description. === Background === I've used it quite a bit off an on over the years, but we have a bit of a dysfunctional relationship. I used to use it for a lot of portable (early days of SOTA) work in all kinds of conditions. It never got really wet or anything, and doesn't show any corrosion anywhere, but it has been outside quite a bit. Many years ago, it started doing this thing where it would just go deaf (all HF bands at least) on and off. Like, it would be sitting there in RX, showing S5 background noise, then ... silent S0 for ten minutes or so, then back to S5 like nothing happened. No touching, no external stimulus. I made a private youtube video showing it happen, wrote up a bunch of diagnosis and details, and sent it to Icom. They called me back, saying that they couldn't reproduce the problem, refused to look at the video, and thus were just sending it back to me with the ribbon cables reseated. I was super frustrated with this response (it was actually worse than I describe), so when I got it back, I literally put it on a shelf. A couple years later, I pulled it out to use it and got just the click-click-of-death thing. Back on the shelf, but later I diagnosed the shorted tantalum cap in the head, replaced, and it would power up. Back on the shelf without much use. Recently got it back out, and spent a day working it pretty hard on several bands and was thrilled to have my old friend back. Until it let me down again. On to the problem description: === Problem Description === Yesterday while working it, it started to power off when I would transmit. At one point it got into a really weird reboot loop where the relay that clicks on when you power it up would click on and off, on and off whenever it had external power. Click, click, click .. until I pull the power cable. No head input would stop it. Left it unplugged for a while and then it powered back on normally. Worked it for another hour and then it shut off again during transmit -- for would be the last time. After this, I get no click-click when I hit the power button, no activity at all when it is given power. Just totally dead like a brick. No burning smell either, for what it's worth. === Diagnosis === After much pouring over the service manual and tracing things out inside, I arrived at the IC1251 3.3v regulator on the logic unit. This (AFAICT) takes the 14v HV line and regulates it down to 3.3v to power the CPU and is required for the PWRK circuit to initiate the startup. This regulator was showing about 2.7v on the input and 2.4v on the output leg. Confirmed on the head connector pin 2 (with the head detached) that it's sitting at 2.4v instead of what I would expect to be 3.3v. I can probe the HV line on the main board right by the connector that feeds the logic board, and see that it sits at 14v when the logic board is out, and drops to 3.7v or so with the logic board in place. This indicates to me that something on the logic board is pulling that down real far. I did what I could to check the bypass caps along the input and output lines to that regulator, but they're, uh, real small and stuff. So, I decided that a sane course of action would be to pop the regulator out so I could isolate before and after it. I got it out clean (although I pulled a leg off it so I'll have to replace that at least). As soon as I did, the HV line went back up to 14v, so I was hopeful that the regulator was bad. However, I wedged a TO-220 3.3v regulator from my parts box into the spot just to test, and it does the same thing. Without the output leg of the regulator connected to the board, it sits at 3.3v and the input sits at 14v. When I connect it to the output pad, it drops down and pulls the input with it, just like the original one. As I mentioned, I tried to check what I could that is downstream of that regulator, specifically bypass caps C1252, C1317, C131

Hi, Hope you are well. Not really sure you got my email yesterday or not? Do you order from Arnazon? Please let me know. Mac

Hi all, My IC7000 seems to be suffering a somewhat intermittent issue with the internal speaker. When I powered it up yesterday the internal speaker wasn't working, after using an external speaker and fiddling around a bit it started working, then again when I switched it on this morning the same happened. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this and what the issue was? I'm using one of the aftermarket separation kits, not sure if that could be part of the issue? Many Thanks, James G5JIM / W5JIM

Hello all, I've owned my IC-7000 for around 13 years now and I guess a couple of years ago the radio fell off the table on it's face and the impact bent the stock of the PBT / M-ch knob. It ended up breaking the inner stock clean off. I don't have the tools or space to properly desolder the part from the board and put a new knob back in. I have the part from ICOM sitting in a package. I'm looking for someone with the expertise to replace this entire module for me. VR UNIT S1(V) is the part. On a side note (not as important) I noticed that the upper left side of the display has lost some of it's brightness. I am wondering if this is something that can be repaired as well? Can anyone recommend someone I can reach out to about sending in the radio for repair. Thanks, Jimmy, K5OP

Hello Members, I am looking for a BetterRF 7000 screwdriver control (yes, I own already the BetterRF Tune Control). 6 years ago I swapped my IC-7000 for a FT-991A and also added the above mentioned interfaces (not knowing the BetterRF has ceased to excist). a few months after, I started to regret this action and decided to wait for a good opportunity to buy a used IC-7000. And so I was lucky to get one at the beginning of this year. I want to setup my mobile station again. And with more than 20 years experience in Mobile HF operation I know what I want. Unfortunately the Best HF mobile antennas like the Codan 9350, Scorpion SA680, the Stealth 9310 or the HiQ5-80 are very expensive. And being incapacitated, my budget is limited. But a very helpfull HAM was willing to sell his HiQ-5-80 for a reasonable price to me. I got a BetteRF Tune Control from another helpfull OM. The only important interface which is missing is the 7000 screwdriver control. I know there are many alternatives, but I definately want the BetterRF unit because of its perfect match with the IC-7000 If anyone has one laying around or knows someone who has, please let me know. I am living in The Netherlands. 73's PA3VOS