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Has anyone recorded the proper voltages under any condition at IC1601, particularly pins 8, 9 and 10. And the area of Q1604? If so, thanks!

Hi all, I'm looking for some help with my IC7000. I apologize for being wordy, it's in my nature and I can't help it. I'll provide a little background, in case it's relevant. If not, just skip to the problem description. === Background === I've used it quite a bit off an on over the years, but we have a bit of a dysfunctional relationship. I used to use it for a lot of portable (early days of SOTA) work in all kinds of conditions. It never got really wet or anything, and doesn't show any corrosion anywhere, but it has been outside quite a bit. Many years ago, it started doing this thing where it would just go deaf (all HF bands at least) on and off. Like, it would be sitting there in RX, showing S5 background noise, then ... silent S0 for ten minutes or so, then back to S5 like nothing happened. No touching, no external stimulus. I made a private youtube video showing it happen, wrote up a bunch of diagnosis and details, and sent it to Icom. They called me back, saying that they couldn't reproduce the problem, refused to look at the video, and thus were just sending it back to me with the ribbon cables reseated. I was super frustrated with this response (it was actually worse than I describe), so when I got it back, I literally put it on a shelf. A couple years later, I pulled it out to use it and got just the click-click-of-death thing. Back on the shelf, but later I diagnosed the shorted tantalum cap in the head, replaced, and it would power up. Back on the shelf without much use. Recently got it back out, and spent a day working it pretty hard on several bands and was thrilled to have my old friend back. Until it let me down again. On to the problem description: === Problem Description === Yesterday while working it, it started to power off when I would transmit. At one point it got into a really weird reboot loop where the relay that clicks on when you power it up would click on and off, on and off whenever it had external power. Click, click, click .. until I pull the power cable. No head input would stop it. Left it unplugged for a while and then it powered back on normally. Worked it for another hour and then it shut off again during transmit -- for would be the last time. After this, I get no click-click when I hit the power button, no activity at all when it is given power. Just totally dead like a brick. No burning smell either, for what it's worth. === Diagnosis === After much pouring over the service manual and tracing things out inside, I arrived at the IC1251 3.3v regulator on the logic unit. This (AFAICT) takes the 14v HV line and regulates it down to 3.3v to power the CPU and is required for the PWRK circuit to initiate the startup. This regulator was showing about 2.7v on the input and 2.4v on the output leg. Confirmed on the head connector pin 2 (with the head detached) that it's sitting at 2.4v instead of what I would expect to be 3.3v. I can probe the HV line on the main board right by the connector that feeds the logic board, and see that it sits at 14v when the logic board is out, and drops to 3.7v or so with the logic board in place. This indicates to me that something on the logic board is pulling that down real far. I did what I could to check the bypass caps along the input and output lines to that regulator, but they're, uh, real small and stuff. So, I decided that a sane course of action would be to pop the regulator out so I could isolate before and after it. I got it out clean (although I pulled a leg off it so I'll have to replace that at least). As soon as I did, the HV line went back up to 14v, so I was hopeful that the regulator was bad. However, I wedged a TO-220 3.3v regulator from my parts box into the spot just to test, and it does the same thing. Without the output leg of the regulator connected to the board, it sits at 3.3v and the input sits at 14v. When I connect it to the output pad, it drops down and pulls the input with it, just like the original one. As I mentioned, I tried to check what I could that is downstream of that regulator, specifically bypass caps C1252, C1317, C131

Hi, Hope you are well. Not really sure you got my email yesterday or not? Do you order from Arnazon? Please let me know. Mac

Hi all, My IC7000 seems to be suffering a somewhat intermittent issue with the internal speaker. When I powered it up yesterday the internal speaker wasn't working, after using an external speaker and fiddling around a bit it started working, then again when I switched it on this morning the same happened. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this and what the issue was? I'm using one of the aftermarket separation kits, not sure if that could be part of the issue? Many Thanks, James G5JIM / W5JIM

Hello all, I've owned my IC-7000 for around 13 years now and I guess a couple of years ago the radio fell off the table on it's face and the impact bent the stock of the PBT / M-ch knob. It ended up breaking the inner stock clean off. I don't have the tools or space to properly desolder the part from the board and put a new knob back in. I have the part from ICOM sitting in a package. I'm looking for someone with the expertise to replace this entire module for me. VR UNIT S1(V) is the part. On a side note (not as important) I noticed that the upper left side of the display has lost some of it's brightness. I am wondering if this is something that can be repaired as well? Can anyone recommend someone I can reach out to about sending in the radio for repair. Thanks, Jimmy, K5OP

Hello Members, I am looking for a BetterRF 7000 screwdriver control (yes, I own already the BetterRF Tune Control). 6 years ago I swapped my IC-7000 for a FT-991A and also added the above mentioned interfaces (not knowing the BetterRF has ceased to excist). a few months after, I started to regret this action and decided to wait for a good opportunity to buy a used IC-7000. And so I was lucky to get one at the beginning of this year. I want to setup my mobile station again. And with more than 20 years experience in Mobile HF operation I know what I want. Unfortunately the Best HF mobile antennas like the Codan 9350, Scorpion SA680, the Stealth 9310 or the HiQ5-80 are very expensive. And being incapacitated, my budget is limited. But a very helpfull HAM was willing to sell his HiQ-5-80 for a reasonable price to me. I got a BetteRF Tune Control from another helpfull OM. The only important interface which is missing is the 7000 screwdriver control. I know there are many alternatives, but I definately want the BetterRF unit because of its perfect match with the IC-7000 If anyone has one laying around or knows someone who has, please let me know. I am living in The Netherlands. 73's PA3VOS

Hello Members, This is PA3VOS. I have been operating on HF from my mobile for more than 20 years. 6 years ago I sold my IC-7000 as well as my HiQ 5-80 and the BetterRF Tune control with the 7000 Tune control. In the beginning of this year I bought an IC 7000 again. And a HiQ 5-80. A good friend of my gave me a BetterRF tune control. Only the 7000 tune control is missing. So, if you have one laying around or you know someone who has, please please let me know! 73's Fokko PA3VOS

I just purchased this Icom 7000 used and connected it to my Icom AT180 tuner. It was connected to my 7300 and worked fine. No tune on 7000 so I checked for 12 volts on the tuner plug but its zero volts. Is there an internal fuse that may be blown? Does any of the Menu settings turn off the 12 volts? Did I buy a dud? Thanks for any help you can offer.

Thank you to all that contacted me about selling an IC7K. I was lucky enough to find on from this group NIB. Thanks again. Randy W9RTB

Hello Group; I know this may be a long shot but is there anyone on the group that may be interested in selling their IC-7000. It must be in excellent condition working as intended and include everything as shipped from Icom. I have seen a few on various sites. I feel more comfortable dealing here on the group. If so email me at direct I am good on QRZ,com Randy W9RTB

Just wonder if anybody have used this display?<top>

Just wonder if anybody have used this display?<top>

Hi All Is there a way to add extra (different frequency) offset to the drop down menu ? Thanks Morrie

Just purchased another ci-v/usb interface for my Laptop running Windows 10 but can't get it connect to Icom IC-7000. Works fine on the desktop PC running Windows 11. This interface uses the FTDI chip so shouldn't be a problem but I can't get it to communicate. - Device Manager identifies as FTDI - radio and pc protocols are identical, 19.2K, 8N1. -- there are no port conflicts -- is there something I'm missing. Adam ve3fp

I see where the narrowest CW filter is 250 hz. However, from the manual am I to understand that I can reduce the CW bandwidth even more, to 50 hz?