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Fixing the unrepairable IC7000


 

Hey everyone,
?
I am new to this group and I am in the process of repairing a few IC-7000s.? One was given to me by my grandfather and the other was my dad's that failed and was deemed irreparable due to parts being unavailable.? Turns out my dad's IC-7000 was actually my grandfather's (KB4NZJ's).? My grandfather passed away a few years ago and his IC-7000 became a donor radio to fix mine, but after finding out the history, I am determined to fix it.? My radio had the dreaded click-click problem no turn on problem.? My grandfather's, wouldn't turn on, I never tried it, but was listed with Bad Main Board, Bad Logic Board, and Bad DDS Module.? My desire to fix it was originally to learn a new skill and do something nice for my dad, but after finding out the story behind the radio, its more sentimental.
?
KB4RU (IC-7000 Fix)
My radio was repaired once before but after about a year, it failed again.? I found once I pulled apart the display unit, the Capacitors that were supposed to be 100uf 16v were actually 47uf 25v.? I was afraid this took out parts in my radio and after tearing it apart and checking it over, I found nothing appearing damaged. Pulled apart the other display unit and turns out the screens were switched at some point between the radios.? Put the other screen on mine, and it came back to life.? Thank god, easy fix for the first one.? Replaced the Capacitors with the correct ones and the other display unit now works and turns the radio on.? Looks like one of the 2 caps failed.? FYI, Digikey lists 100uF 20v as an upgrade for the caps, they are slightly too thick and create a bulge in the back of the display case.? Stick to the 16v.
?
Onto the second radio. KB4NZJ (Silent Key) IC-7000
Display Board- This is the older IC-7000, the display board above had the 47uf 20v Caps described above.? Replaced caps and its working as it should now.
?
Main Board- I thought I had a burned resistor and failed cap near the logic board connection point.? Cleaned the char off and found a burnt trace going to the connector.? I attempted to bridge the trace and the wire kept shifting to the space between the pins. I tried to remove the connector and make a new trace, but everything kept moving around it kept getting worse until I ended accidently pulling up the whole trace.? After several hours trying to make something work, I gave up and ordered a new main board for now.? Eventually, I will try to cut and make a new trace to keep the mainboard as a spare.? Surface mount PCB repairs and overall radio repairs is a new learning experience for me.??
?
Logic board- Found a burned inductor on the back side of the logic board.? Replaced the inductor and logic board appears to be working again!? I tested it in my radio and it powered up and appeared to be working normally.
?
DDS- Says No RX, No TX.? I have looked all over it with magnifying glass and have not found anything appearing damaged.? I haven't poked around with the multimeter yet, but I decided to start with the Main Board and Logic to see if I can get it to power on, then try the DDS board.? I am not sure how it was tested to determine it was no good.? May have originally come out of my radio, but I am not sure which part came from which radio originally anymore.??
?
Inspiration for others.
Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their IC-7000 and keeps a few more of these wonderful radios alive.? I will post up some pictures of the projects later on.? I never attempted to repair these myself before because it was outside of my comfort zone and something I never did before.? However, I had the option of try it and see what happens and learn something new or give up on the radio and let it sit in the attic.? Glad I did.? A lot of this is easier than I expected, and I am learning a lot as I go along.? I have minimal experience fixing radios and by no means an expert in soldering or electronics repair.? My dad taught me the basics and I learned the rest on YouTube.? So, don't give up.? If you're determined enough, it can be done.


 


This is very insightful and inspiring, Craig.

Thank you for sharing your experiences.

ismail


On Sat, Feb 8, 2025, 06:09 Craig- KB4RU via <ki4coa=[email protected]> wrote:
Hey everyone,
?
I am new to this group and I am in the process of repairing a few IC-7000s.? One was given to me by my grandfather and the other was my dad's that failed and was deemed irreparable due to parts being unavailable.? Turns out my dad's IC-7000 was actually my grandfather's (KB4NZJ's).? My grandfather passed away a few years ago and his IC-7000 became a donor radio to fix mine, but after finding out the history, I am determined to fix it.? My radio had the dreaded click-click problem no turn on problem.? My grandfather's, wouldn't turn on, I never tried it, but was listed with Bad Main Board, Bad Logic Board, and Bad DDS Module.? My desire to fix it was originally to learn a new skill and do something nice for my dad, but after finding out the story behind the radio, its more sentimental.
?
KB4RU (IC-7000 Fix)
My radio was repaired once before but after about a year, it failed again.? I found once I pulled apart the display unit, the Capacitors that were supposed to be 100uf 16v were actually 47uf 25v.? I was afraid this took out parts in my radio and after tearing it apart and checking it over, I found nothing appearing damaged. Pulled apart the other display unit and turns out the screens were switched at some point between the radios.? Put the other screen on mine, and it came back to life.? Thank god, easy fix for the first one.? Replaced the Capacitors with the correct ones and the other display unit now works and turns the radio on.? Looks like one of the 2 caps failed.? FYI, Digikey lists 100uF 20v as an upgrade for the caps, they are slightly too thick and create a bulge in the back of the display case.? Stick to the 16v.
?
Onto the second radio. KB4NZJ (Silent Key) IC-7000
Display Board- This is the older IC-7000, the display board above had the 47uf 20v Caps described above.? Replaced caps and its working as it should now.
?
Main Board- I thought I had a burned resistor and failed cap near the logic board connection point.? Cleaned the char off and found a burnt trace going to the connector.? I attempted to bridge the trace and the wire kept shifting to the space between the pins. I tried to remove the connector and make a new trace, but everything kept moving around it kept getting worse until I ended accidently pulling up the whole trace.? After several hours trying to make something work, I gave up and ordered a new main board for now.? Eventually, I will try to cut and make a new trace to keep the mainboard as a spare.? Surface mount PCB repairs and overall radio repairs is a new learning experience for me.??
?
Logic board- Found a burned inductor on the back side of the logic board.? Replaced the inductor and logic board appears to be working again!? I tested it in my radio and it powered up and appeared to be working normally.
?
DDS- Says No RX, No TX.? I have looked all over it with magnifying glass and have not found anything appearing damaged.? I haven't poked around with the multimeter yet, but I decided to start with the Main Board and Logic to see if I can get it to power on, then try the DDS board.? I am not sure how it was tested to determine it was no good.? May have originally come out of my radio, but I am not sure which part came from which radio originally anymore.??
?
Inspiration for others.
Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their IC-7000 and keeps a few more of these wonderful radios alive.? I will post up some pictures of the projects later on.? I never attempted to repair these myself before because it was outside of my comfort zone and something I never did before.? However, I had the option of try it and see what happens and learn something new or give up on the radio and let it sit in the attic.? Glad I did.? A lot of this is easier than I expected, and I am learning a lot as I go along.? I have minimal experience fixing radios and by no means an expert in soldering or electronics repair.? My dad taught me the basics and I learned the rest on YouTube.? So, don't give up.? If you're determined enough, it can be done.


 

Hi,

When the two 12v tants are nearly all SC after 20 years, if one holds the power on button in for too long this takes the 4R7 resistor on the underside of the logic power supply board. The resistor is 5125 1 Watt device.


I have had over 10 units with this fault some 20v caps will fit

73

Andrew
73

Andrew

?Get BlueMail for Android ?

On 9 Feb 2025, 04:39, at 04:39, "(( KT6LN )) via groups.io" <ke6tln@...> wrote:
This is very insightful and inspiring, Craig.

Thank you for sharing your experiences.

ismail


On Sat, Feb 8, 2025, 06:09 Craig- KB4RU via groups.io <ki4coa=
[email protected]> wrote:

Hey everyone,

I am new to this group and I am in the process of repairing a few
IC-7000s. One was given to me by my grandfather and the other was my
dad's
that failed and was deemed irreparable due to parts being
unavailable.
Turns out my dad's IC-7000 was actually my grandfather's (KB4NZJ's).
My
grandfather passed away a few years ago and his IC-7000 became a
donor
radio to fix mine, but after finding out the history, I am determined
to
fix it. My radio had the dreaded click-click problem no turn on
problem.
My grandfather's, wouldn't turn on, I never tried it, but was listed
with
Bad Main Board, Bad Logic Board, and Bad DDS Module. My desire to
fix it
was originally to learn a new skill and do something nice for my dad,
but
after finding out the story behind the radio, its more sentimental.

*KB4RU (IC-7000 Fix)*
My radio was repaired once before but after about a year, it failed
again. I found once I pulled apart the display unit, the Capacitors
that
were supposed to be 100uf 16v were actually 47uf 25v. I was afraid
this
took out parts in my radio and after tearing it apart and checking it
over,
I found nothing appearing damaged. Pulled apart the other display
unit and
turns out the screens were switched at some point between the radios.
Put
the other screen on mine, and it came back to life. Thank god, easy
fix
for the first one. Replaced the Capacitors with the correct ones and
the
other display unit now works and turns the radio on. Looks like one
of the
2 caps failed. FYI, Digikey lists 100uF 20v as an upgrade for the
caps,
they are slightly too thick and create a bulge in the back of the
display
case. Stick to the 16v.

*Onto the second radio. KB4NZJ (Silent Key) IC-7000*
Display Board- This is the older IC-7000, the display board above had
the
47uf 20v Caps described above. Replaced caps and its working as it
should
now.

Main Board- I thought I had a burned resistor and failed cap near the
logic board connection point. Cleaned the char off and found a burnt
trace
going to the connector. I attempted to bridge the trace and the wire
kept
shifting to the space between the pins. I tried to remove the
connector and
make a new trace, but everything kept moving around it kept getting
worse
until I ended accidently pulling up the whole trace. After several
hours
trying to make something work, I gave up and ordered a new main board
for
now. Eventually, I will try to cut and make a new trace to keep the
mainboard as a spare. Surface mount PCB repairs and overall radio
repairs
is a new learning experience for me.

Logic board- Found a burned inductor on the back side of the logic
board.
Replaced the inductor and logic board appears to be working again! I
tested it in my radio and it powered up and appeared to be working
normally.

DDS- Says No RX, No TX. I have looked all over it with magnifying
glass
and have not found anything appearing damaged. I haven't poked
around with
the multimeter yet, but I decided to start with the Main Board and
Logic to
see if I can get it to power on, then try the DDS board. I am not
sure how
it was tested to determine it was no good. May have originally come
out of
my radio, but I am not sure which part came from which radio
originally
anymore.

*Inspiration for others.*
Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their
IC-7000 and keeps a few more of these wonderful radios alive. I will
post
up some pictures of the projects later on. I never attempted to
repair
these myself before because it was outside of my comfort zone and
something
I never did before. However, I had the option of try it and see what
happens and learn something new or give up on the radio and let it
sit in
the attic. Glad I did. A lot of this is easier than I expected, and
I am
learning a lot as I go along. I have minimal experience fixing
radios and
by no means an expert in soldering or electronics repair. My dad
taught me
the basics and I learned the rest on YouTube. So, don't give up. If
you're determined enough, it can be done.




 

Craig,? ?I've been doing surface mount and through hole repairs for years (40 +).? ??
you? can glue the trace back down with superglue but use an accelerent, epoxy will work, but you have to wait for it to harden, or you can use wire wrap wire 22ga. to replace the trace.? If you have a UV cured glue that may work, I have never tried it though.? ?You will need small tweezers to hold the end while you solder it.? ? Depending on the age of the board you may be dealing with no-lead solder, which requires a higher heat then standard eutectic solder.? ? You can use eutectic solder 63/37 rosin flux, but you need to make sure the board is very clean, 63/37 doesn't like to adhere to the no-lead solders.? I use fingernail polish to re-insulate the trace.? ?They actually make trace repair kits that includes eyelets and traces.? ?They are made by pace worldwide, I believe Jameco carries them.? ?They are pricey tho.? ?Pace also has books that show how to do it.? ?It helps to have a hot-air iron, but not necessary.? ? I have seen some inexpensive vacuum repair systems advertised on FaceBook.? ?Hakko repair systems are good.? ?I learned Pace repair in the Navy in the 70's.? ?Clean the board with 190 proof or better alcohol, I used 200 proof at work, to remove all traces of flux.??
I-fixit is another good resource.? ?You may be able to find information on how to at IPC the set the rules on high reliability repair and manufacture of printed circuit assemblies.? ?I used to order repair parts from Techni-tool, excellent selection and reasonable prices.? ?
?
Side note, from about 2005-2015 the market was flooded with bogus components from china, capacitors were the big gotcha, even though the labels looked good, the insides were trash, electrolytics were the worst, bulged tops, leaking electrolyte, catastrofic failure.? ?
?
pat ne6pg


 

This email thread has great timing. Have 3 of these awesome rigs and a previous one lost the cap. Sent it to a friend hamrepair.com in SA Texas.

Just have that failure again, now I'm inspired to fix it myself.

The components to check are 4R7 and you lost me with 20v caps? Where do they go?

I'm going to take pics of this for this group when I go through this.

73-
W1JCW
John

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Andrew Lenton
Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2025 4:28 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ic7000] Fixing the unrepairable IC7000

Hi,

When the two 12v tants are nearly all SC after 20 years, if one holds the power on button in for too long this takes the 4R7 resistor on the underside of the logic power supply board. The resistor is 5125 1 Watt device.


I have had over 10 units with this fault some 20v caps will fit

73

Andrew
73

Andrew

?Get BlueMail for Android ?

On 9 Feb 2025, 04:39, at 04:39, "(( KT6LN )) via groups.io" <ke6tln@...> wrote:
This is very insightful and inspiring, Craig.

Thank you for sharing your experiences.

ismail


On Sat, Feb 8, 2025, 06:09 Craig- KB4RU via groups.io <ki4coa=
[email protected]> wrote:

Hey everyone,

I am new to this group and I am in the process of repairing a few
IC-7000s. One was given to me by my grandfather and the other was my
dad's
that failed and was deemed irreparable due to parts being
unavailable.
Turns out my dad's IC-7000 was actually my grandfather's (KB4NZJ's).
My
grandfather passed away a few years ago and his IC-7000 became a
donor
radio to fix mine, but after finding out the history, I am determined
to
fix it. My radio had the dreaded click-click problem no turn on
problem.
My grandfather's, wouldn't turn on, I never tried it, but was listed
with
Bad Main Board, Bad Logic Board, and Bad DDS Module. My desire to
fix it
was originally to learn a new skill and do something nice for my dad,
but
after finding out the story behind the radio, its more sentimental.

*KB4RU (IC-7000 Fix)*
My radio was repaired once before but after about a year, it failed
again. I found once I pulled apart the display unit, the Capacitors
that
were supposed to be 100uf 16v were actually 47uf 25v. I was afraid
this
took out parts in my radio and after tearing it apart and checking it
over,
I found nothing appearing damaged. Pulled apart the other display
unit and
turns out the screens were switched at some point between the radios.
Put
the other screen on mine, and it came back to life. Thank god, easy
fix
for the first one. Replaced the Capacitors with the correct ones and
the
other display unit now works and turns the radio on. Looks like one
of the
2 caps failed. FYI, Digikey lists 100uF 20v as an upgrade for the
caps,
they are slightly too thick and create a bulge in the back of the
display
case. Stick to the 16v.

*Onto the second radio. KB4NZJ (Silent Key) IC-7000* Display Board-
This is the older IC-7000, the display board above had
the
47uf 20v Caps described above. Replaced caps and its working as it
should
now.

Main Board- I thought I had a burned resistor and failed cap near the
logic board connection point. Cleaned the char off and found a burnt
trace
going to the connector. I attempted to bridge the trace and the wire
kept
shifting to the space between the pins. I tried to remove the
connector and
make a new trace, but everything kept moving around it kept getting
worse
until I ended accidently pulling up the whole trace. After several
hours
trying to make something work, I gave up and ordered a new main board
for
now. Eventually, I will try to cut and make a new trace to keep the
mainboard as a spare. Surface mount PCB repairs and overall radio
repairs
is a new learning experience for me.

Logic board- Found a burned inductor on the back side of the logic
board.
Replaced the inductor and logic board appears to be working again! I
tested it in my radio and it powered up and appeared to be working
normally.

DDS- Says No RX, No TX. I have looked all over it with magnifying
glass
and have not found anything appearing damaged. I haven't poked
around with
the multimeter yet, but I decided to start with the Main Board and
Logic to
see if I can get it to power on, then try the DDS board. I am not
sure how
it was tested to determine it was no good. May have originally come
out of
my radio, but I am not sure which part came from which radio
originally
anymore.

*Inspiration for others.*
Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their
IC-7000 and keeps a few more of these wonderful radios alive. I will
post
up some pictures of the projects later on. I never attempted to
repair
these myself before because it was outside of my comfort zone and
something
I never did before. However, I had the option of try it and see what
happens and learn something new or give up on the radio and let it
sit in
the attic. Glad I did. A lot of this is easier than I expected, and
I am
learning a lot as I go along. I have minimal experience fixing
radios and
by no means an expert in soldering or electronics repair. My dad
taught me
the basics and I learned the rest on YouTube. So, don't give up. If
you're determined enough, it can be done.




 

On Saturday, February 8, 2025 at 07:09:27 AM MST, Craig- KB4RU via groups.io <ki4coa@...> wrote:


Inspiration for others.
Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their IC-7000
Your story reinforces what is a very typical scenario during repairs of most anything.? Yes, sometimes thing fail in spectacular ways (lightning strike, water damage) that make a repair attempt futile but in most cases the issue is confined to a specific part or functional assembly.? In a past life I was a commercial radio bench tech and fixed thousands of radios, most of that was isolating the fault to a given part, replace it, and off it goes again.? Odds of fixing it are in your favor, *if you try*.? Hams get freaked out over surface mount and yeah, sometimes getting in there to poke at a test point with a scope can be a challenge, but there's nothing magic about it.? Take your time, be methodical and odds are you'll find something obvious.? You'll never find it if you never try.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM


 

Every once in a while if you find a part that doesn't match the schematic, such as you found a 47uF where you? expected a 100uF, doesn't always mean?someone installed the wrong part. Sometimes the manufacturer?will make a change and it doesn't make all the schematics already out in circulation. Sometimes it's just a plain error so when you find
something like this, look into it further and don't assume.
Bob W4JFA

On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 10:39?AM Mark Brueggemann K5LXP via <qrq_cw=[email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, February 8, 2025 at 07:09:27 AM MST, Craig- KB4RU via <ki4coa=[email protected]> wrote:


> Inspiration for others.

> Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their IC-7000

Your story reinforces what is a very typical scenario during repairs of most anything.? Yes, sometimes thing fail in spectacular ways (lightning strike, water damage) that make a repair attempt futile but in most cases the issue is confined to a specific part or functional assembly.? In a past life I was a commercial radio bench tech and fixed thousands of radios, most of that was isolating the fault to a given part, replace it, and off it goes again.? Odds of fixing it are in your favor, *if you try*.? Hams get freaked out over surface mount and yeah, sometimes getting in there to poke at a test point with a scope can be a challenge, but there's nothing magic about it.? Take your time, be methodical and odds are you'll find something obvious.? You'll never find it if you never try.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM






 

开云体育

Fair point Bob about the making a change from the manufacturer. ?The 2 capacitors i mentioned were a different brand than the others of the same rating and the solder joints didn’t look the same as the others in the display board, so to me, it looks highly suspicious that they have been replaced before. ?

Unfortunately, I know very little about the history of this radio except it was purchased in 2011 from HRO and it died after the car it was in, was in an accident. ?My dad was gifted it from my grandfather, not knowing it died, and when my dad couldn’t get it to work, he shipped it off for repair and received it back being told it couldn’t be repaired.?


On Feb 11, 2025, at 6:15?PM, Bob via groups.io <W4JFABob@...> wrote:

?
Every once in a while if you find a part that doesn't match the schematic, such as you found a 47uF where you? expected a 100uF, doesn't always mean?someone installed the wrong part. Sometimes the manufacturer?will make a change and it doesn't make all the schematics already out in circulation. Sometimes it's just a plain error so when you find
something like this, look into it further and don't assume.
Bob W4JFA

On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 10:39?AM Mark Brueggemann K5LXP via <qrq_cw=[email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, February 8, 2025 at 07:09:27 AM MST, Craig- KB4RU via <ki4coa=[email protected]> wrote:


> Inspiration for others.

> Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their IC-7000

Your story reinforces what is a very typical scenario during repairs of most anything.? Yes, sometimes thing fail in spectacular ways (lightning strike, water damage) that make a repair attempt futile but in most cases the issue is confined to a specific part or functional assembly.? In a past life I was a commercial radio bench tech and fixed thousands of radios, most of that was isolating the fault to a given part, replace it, and off it goes again.? Odds of fixing it are in your favor, *if you try*.? Hams get freaked out over surface mount and yeah, sometimes getting in there to poke at a test point with a scope can be a challenge, but there's nothing magic about it.? Take your time, be methodical and odds are you'll find something obvious.? You'll never find it if you never try.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM






 

Craig, From what you observed, it does sound like they were replaced. I've run across this with stereo gear. It's usually recommended by
experienced techs to replace with what was there if it was working properly. It is definitely confusing though.
Bob W4JFA

On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 9:14?PM Craig- KB4RU via <ki4coa=[email protected]> wrote:
Fair point Bob about the making a change from the manufacturer.? The 2 capacitors i mentioned were a different brand than the others of the same rating and the solder joints didn’t look the same as the others in the display board, so to me, it looks highly suspicious that they have been replaced before. ?

Unfortunately, I know very little about the history of this radio except it was purchased in 2011 from HRO and it died after the car it was in, was in an accident.? My dad was gifted it from my grandfather, not knowing it died, and when my dad couldn’t get it to work, he shipped it off for repair and received it back being told it couldn’t be repaired.?


On Feb 11, 2025, at 6:15?PM, Bob via <W4JFABob=[email protected]> wrote:

?
Every once in a while if you find a part that doesn't match the schematic, such as you found a 47uF where you? expected a 100uF, doesn't always mean?someone installed the wrong part. Sometimes the manufacturer?will make a change and it doesn't make all the schematics already out in circulation. Sometimes it's just a plain error so when you find
something like this, look into it further and don't assume.
Bob W4JFA

On Tue, Feb 11, 2025 at 10:39?AM Mark Brueggemann K5LXP via <qrq_cw=[email protected]> wrote:
On Saturday, February 8, 2025 at 07:09:27 AM MST, Craig- KB4RU via <ki4coa=[email protected]> wrote:


> Inspiration for others.

> Hopefully this helps someone else have some hope in restoring their IC-7000

Your story reinforces what is a very typical scenario during repairs of most anything.? Yes, sometimes thing fail in spectacular ways (lightning strike, water damage) that make a repair attempt futile but in most cases the issue is confined to a specific part or functional assembly.? In a past life I was a commercial radio bench tech and fixed thousands of radios, most of that was isolating the fault to a given part, replace it, and off it goes again.? Odds of fixing it are in your favor, *if you try*.? Hams get freaked out over surface mount and yeah, sometimes getting in there to poke at a test point with a scope can be a challenge, but there's nothing magic about it.? Take your time, be methodical and odds are you'll find something obvious.? You'll never find it if you never try.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM






 

So the change in components and not the schematics is very common.? ?I had two Icom 706 MkII G's, one a low serial number and one a later version, the early one used Motorola finals on the PA board.? The later used National Semi finals on the PA, the two were not swappable as they used different bias voltages and lead configurations.? ?There is a document? that was done by a tech in Spain that shows what needs to be done in order to use the later chips on the earlier board.? ?Involves moving traces and grinding the PA board.??

I also have a couple of Icom W32 handhelds?that have different components and boards, such that the newer one cannot? be configured to receive?in the upper UHF band.? ?

Pat NE6PG


 

First pic- top view of the logic board. ?Problem was the burned inductor. ?Replaced the inductor and Logic Board appears functional again.
?
Burnt section on Main Board. ?Components actually seemed to check out ok and the actual source of the burn was a trace under the connector. ?I don’t think I captured a picture of the actual trace unfortunately. ?I did get an electronic microscope yesterday to better capture the images of the damage/repairs. ?Made scouting the board and performing the repairs MUCH easier. ?Highly recommend one.


 

First pic- post repair (almost completed). ?Replaced the 2x Ferrite Beads, Resistor, Capacitor, and 2x inductors. ?White spot over the resistor to the left is glare over the flux. ?I still need to finish soldering the bottom right of the connector, but it got late and i needed to swap tips on the soldering iron. ?Hoping to finish and test tonight after work.
?
2nd pic is before i put the connector and rest of the components on. ?The gold trace over the ferrite bead is the trace that burned. ?It is an extremely short trace making the repair on it a PAIN! ?Took me hours to get the trace to stay in place and fit in halfway decently. ?I ended up using high heat transfer tape to secure it in place until I had the ferrite bead in place. ?The other missing trace has also been replaced, but I don’t think I captured a picture of it. ?I ended up having to use a fine tip soldering iron instead of the hot air rework station because the hot air melted the solder along the entire trace causing it to jump to the next pin or fly off the board. ?I’m soldering that pin last in hopes the connector will hold it in place. ?I have green solder mask to paint over the areas where it went thin from cleaning as well. ?
?
Hoping to test tonight and see if this comes back to life.


 

开云体育

Hi Do you know what caused the fault in the first place?

?

KR

?

Andrew

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Craig- KB4RU via groups.io
Sent: 17 February 2025 16:37
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ic7000] Fixing the unrepairable IC7000

?

First pic- post repair (almost completed). ?Replaced the 2x Ferrite Beads, Resistor, Capacitor, and 2x inductors. ?White spot over the resistor to the left is glare over the flux. ?I still need to finish soldering the bottom right of the connector, but it got late and i needed to swap tips on the soldering iron. ?Hoping to finish and test tonight after work.

?

2nd pic is before i put the connector and rest of the components on. ?The gold trace over the ferrite bead is the trace that burned. ?It is an extremely short trace making the repair on it a PAIN! ?Took me hours to get the trace to stay in place and fit in halfway decently. ?I ended up using high heat transfer tape to secure it in place until I had the ferrite bead in place. ?The other missing trace has also been replaced, but I don’t think I captured a picture of it. ?I ended up having to use a fine tip soldering iron instead of the hot air rework station because the hot air melted the solder along the entire trace causing it to jump to the next pin or fly off the board. ?I’m soldering that pin last in hopes the connector will hold it in place. ?I have green solder mask to paint over the areas where it went thin from cleaning as well. ?

?

Hoping to test tonight and see if this comes back to life.


 

Nice job, Craig.? It sure helps having a microscope and rework station.? ? As I passed on before, Techni-tool has traces and eyelets to repair boards.? This is what I did for 35 years in the Navy and a commercial power plant. I&C tech after Navy ET.? ? ?

Pat ne6pg

On Mon, Feb 17, 2025 at 10:07?AM Andrew Lenton via <a=[email protected]> wrote:

Hi Do you know what caused the fault in the first place?

?

KR

?

Andrew

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Craig- KB4RU via
Sent: 17 February 2025 16:37
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ic7000] Fixing the unrepairable IC7000

?

First pic- post repair (almost completed).? Replaced the 2x Ferrite Beads, Resistor, Capacitor, and 2x inductors.? White spot over the resistor to the left is glare over the flux.? I still need to finish soldering the bottom right of the connector, but it got late and i needed to swap tips on the soldering iron.? Hoping to finish and test tonight after work.

?

2nd pic is before i put the connector and rest of the components on.? The gold trace over the ferrite bead is the trace that burned.? It is an extremely short trace making the repair on it a PAIN!? Took me hours to get the trace to stay in place and fit in halfway decently.? I ended up using high heat transfer tape to secure it in place until I had the ferrite bead in place.? The other missing trace has also been replaced, but I don’t think I captured a picture of it.? I ended up having to use a fine tip soldering iron instead of the hot air rework station because the hot air melted the solder along the entire trace causing it to jump to the next pin or fly off the board.? I’m soldering that pin last in hopes the connector will hold it in place.? I have green solder mask to paint over the areas where it went thin from cleaning as well. ?

?

Hoping to test tonight and see if this comes back to life.


 

Oops Sorry Andrew I got the name wrong.? ??
Pat

On Mon, Feb 17, 2025 at 10:20?AM Pat Goodyear <ne6pg1@...> wrote:
Nice job, Craig.? It sure helps having a microscope and rework station.? ? As I passed on before, Techni-tool has traces and eyelets to repair boards.? This is what I did for 35 years in the Navy and a commercial power plant. I&C tech after Navy ET.? ? ?

Pat ne6pg

On Mon, Feb 17, 2025 at 10:07?AM Andrew Lenton via <a=[email protected]> wrote:

Hi Do you know what caused the fault in the first place?

?

KR

?

Andrew

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Craig- KB4RU via
Sent: 17 February 2025 16:37
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ic7000] Fixing the unrepairable IC7000

?

First pic- post repair (almost completed).? Replaced the 2x Ferrite Beads, Resistor, Capacitor, and 2x inductors.? White spot over the resistor to the left is glare over the flux.? I still need to finish soldering the bottom right of the connector, but it got late and i needed to swap tips on the soldering iron.? Hoping to finish and test tonight after work.

?

2nd pic is before i put the connector and rest of the components on.? The gold trace over the ferrite bead is the trace that burned.? It is an extremely short trace making the repair on it a PAIN!? Took me hours to get the trace to stay in place and fit in halfway decently.? I ended up using high heat transfer tape to secure it in place until I had the ferrite bead in place.? The other missing trace has also been replaced, but I don’t think I captured a picture of it.? I ended up having to use a fine tip soldering iron instead of the hot air rework station because the hot air melted the solder along the entire trace causing it to jump to the next pin or fly off the board.? I’m soldering that pin last in hopes the connector will hold it in place.? I have green solder mask to paint over the areas where it went thin from cleaning as well. ?

?

Hoping to test tonight and see if this comes back to life.


 

As far as we know radio was working fine up until my grandfather crashed his Saturn. ?We suspect the crash cause a voltage spike that caused the failure. ?Can’t figure out any other source. ?After the crash his car was total so he gave it to my dad, but never checked between the crash or giving it to my dad if it worked.


 

Main board is successfully repaired! ?It powered on for the first time in years! ?No audio, so onto the DDS Board
?


 

Does the S meter indicate with signal, is the DSP module warm as it foes run rather hot?

Get
On 18 Feb 2025, at 02:48, "Craig- KB4RU via " <gmail.com@groups.io target=_blank>[email protected]> wrote:

Main board is successfully repaired! ?It powered on for the first time in years! ?No audio, so onto the DDS Board
?


 

Ps change the two tant caps in the head they smooth the 12V rail generated by the buk converted.
As the6will fail.

73

Andrew

Get
On 18 Feb 2025, at 02:48, "Craig- KB4RU via " <gmail.com@groups.io target=_blank>[email protected]> wrote:

Main board is successfully repaired! ?It powered on for the first time in years! ?No audio, so onto the DDS Board
?


 

Are you referencing the 2 tant caps on the display board? ?Those were the first things replaced because they were replaced before at some point with much smaller capacitors.?