开云体育

Hashtags are not a requirement. In fact, I'd rather not see a huge number of hashtags suddenly appear for no good reason. However, I can see a use for the hashtags #tonertransfer #CuCl #KiCAD if you feel that what you are posting might be relevant to some future person looking for information on that topic. As such, please be cautious when using the # symbol. If you use it with spaces on either side, all is well. But the moment you have some alphanumeric immediately following, such as for a phone number, 开云体育 turns it into a hashtag automatically. It isn't a huge deal, but the moderators will have to go in and clean those out periodically. And we don't get paid anything. The same goes for spelling of hashtags. If you misspell it, it doesn't appear under that hashtag, but creates a separate hashtag. The moderators can delete the offending hashtag, but cannot add your message or any thread created under it to an existing hashtag. The hashtag only has to appear somewhere in the message or Subject line, everything else gets taken care of automagically. I think I'd prefer they be in the message body, as it takes up limited reading space for the Subject. Or if you are writing a message online, under the Subject line, there is an "Add Tags" box that will show all existing hashtags. If you are reading a message online, you can click on the hashtag in the message to see a list of all messages with that hashtag, regardless of subject threads. Or look to your left, and you'll see "# Hashtags" just under "Messages". Click on this, you'll see a table of all hashtags available. Just click on one to see the list of messages with that hashtag. -- Steven Greenfield AE7HD

Hello, Sounds like a very useful group. Bob B.

Here are some tips I used for making double sided pcbs. http://www.infiltec.com/seismo/pcb-home.htm Ciao, ..Dave Saum My Fun Page http://www.infiltec.com/inf-fun.htm My Inexpensive Seismometer Project Page http://www.infiltec.com/seismo/ My Business Page http://www.infiltec.com/ My Link Page http://www.infiltec.com/inf-fave.htm My Gold Prospecting Near Washington, DC Page http://www.infiltec.com/gold/

A while ago I put together a webpage distilling many years of experience making quality homebrew PCBs, including useful sources of materials etc. As I may change ISPs soon, I won't give a direct page link, but go to www.electricstuff.co.uk & click on "How to make really good homebrew PCBs" near the bottom of the page.

This group sure looks like a good idea. I have several interests. One is trying the CuCl etching method. See: http://www.dnai.com/~rexa/Projects/CuCl_ech.html for details. It looks cheap, and minimizes environmental impact. I am interested in hearing from anyone with related experience. Another is trying to make prototypes with laser-printed PCB patterns more consistent. At present I use Dyna Art paper which I like. I haven't tried any other method, though, and am interested in inexpensive alternatives which work. For example, I read somewhere on the net that clay-coated 80 pound (I think) paper works well. I have been unable to find it at Staples here in Canada though apparently it is available in the US. I also have some old silk screens with old PCB patterns. (Many are from early Elektor projects, though they are not labelled, so I am not sure what each one is. I plan to clean these screens and reclaim them, unless someone can help me identify the Elektor projects. In exchange I would try printing some of the patterns on PCB's. I think Javex does the trick to remove the old silkscreen stencil. I am interested in learning about how to apply new photoemulsion to the silk screen, and reproduce PCB art on the silk screen. I use Ivex WinBoard. Does anyone know if there is a way to laser print the PCB pattern to mylar or the like (clear plastic), and use this to print to the photoemulsion.? Is there a computer method to turn a PCB pattern to a negative one, for laser printing? Is there a photemulsion which would respond to a laser printed positive on clear plastic, so a negative would not be required? That's it for now. I look forward to seeing the group grow and pool knowledge and experience. Grant

I added it to the Links. Let me know if your URL changes. I also added your site to the Mad Scientist mailing list. Steve --- mikentb123 <mike@...> wrote: > A while ago I put together a webpage distilling many > years of > experience making quality homebrew PCBs, including > useful sources of > materials etc. > As I may change ISPs soon, I won't give a direct > page link, but go to > www.electricstuff.co.uk & click on "How to make > really good homebrew > PCBs" near the bottom of the page. > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@... > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com

Hi all, I have just joined this group and thought I'd share the method that I use to make PCB's. I have used a variety of methods over the years beginning with Plastic tape of 2 different colours on drafting film being double size and photographed using filters to separate the two colours and creating 2 negatives, then coating blank pcb with photoresist and drying then exposing and developing. It used to take ages to get a pcb from a design. Then when the design didn't work..... (Boy, did I really do all that!) Now I use Protel Autotrax and simply print to a laser printer which I use as the positive phototool and I spray CRC onto this (as recommended by a screen printer) which makes the paper more translucent. I allow this to dry under a heat lamp, line up the two sides on a light box and tape them together. I then use KINSTEN positive acting PCB material which has a green coating and is very cheap (about $3.00 U.S. for a 100mm x 150mm sheet) I made a light box with a double fluro batten top and bottom using 4 x Philips TL20W/05 tubes and a central shelf with the centre cut out with a jigsaw. A couple of sheets of window glass which I place the pcb/artwork between. Expose for 12mins and develop in Sodium Metasilicate or KINSTEN DP50 developer (also very cheap) and etch in an Amonium Persulphate Solution in a KINSTEN tank with air bubbles from an aquarium pump. Voila! A very quick and amazingly accurate way to make prototype pcb's. I use 15 thou tracks min but could probably go thinner. I have never tried the direct toner to pcb method but after reading from this group might give it a go. Regards, Paul Waller University of Tasmania Australia.

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the Homebrew_PCBs group. File : /Dscn0329.jpg Uploaded by : janrwl <JanRwl@...> Description : Home-Brew PET-ctrl. PCB-drill You can access this file at the URL http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/Dscn0329.jpg To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files Regards, janrwl <JanRwl@...>

Hello to all!!! I have asked this question on the picbasic list but no answers. a couple of thought but !!!! now I ask all of you on the homebrew board. instead of transfers from laser printer to copper. how about just buying a thin copper sheet say 3mil or so. then run the copper through the laser printer and print your art work. once that's done laminate the copper to a fiberglass board. then etch as normal. would this work???? does anyone see any problems with this? or the question should be will the laser printer print to copper sheeting?? thank you regards Victor Faria

Hi everyone I thought I might share how I have been making circuit boards for years. I have made 1000's of boards using a method that some do not like but I have had excellent results with. First I design the board on my computer using an old program that runs in dos but is very easy to use. I then print this out on my HP970 ink jet and make multiple copies of the board. Then I use the blue sheets from Techniks Inc. using a copier to lay the final trace to the blue sheet. Iron on the copper board using a setting on my iron of 3 yours might very, for 1min. till the traces can be seen through the back of the blue sheet. Use little pressure let the iron do the work if traces are smearing or spreading then the heat is too high or your applying too much pressure. You then peel the blue sheet off when it barely warm not yet cold. If you have a bad trace such as a cross over this can be corrected very easily by using a dental tool to scrape off the connected traces. After that I just put it in the tank that has a heater and aquarium pump 3min. and you have a board. I dip my finished boards in a solder tank to coat the traces never had a bad board. My boards are used on lots of equipment you don't need fancy lettering or green coating, my boards are put in a box and never seen. They have been working for 7years on equipment so I must be doing it right. There are other things I do to protect the trace such as electrical coating etc. Hope this helps some out there get started. Derek B. High-Tech Systems

Hi everybody! Does anybody know how to print on top of the pcb. (Like you see on electronic building kits, where the components are marked on top of the pcb) Great work on setting up one new group Steve :) Best regards Thor

This is a copy of an E-Mail I sent to CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO a while back. I thought It might be usefull to someone so I am reposting here. Chris Much like others are describing. After a week or so of using Protel for board layout, use the Protel CAM processor and export the gerbers then convert them to eagle scripts to import into eagle then converting to outlines and outputing G-codes and then post processing them. Also I was taking the drill files and seperately processing them. And finally taking a board outline and processing that. And after all that I could not work with oval pads. The whole process was very manual and a PAIN! Thanks to some help from this list I can now generate outlines in Protel. I also do all the CAD work for the board outline. Then I run the Protel CAM processor to get gerbers for top layer outline, bottom layer outline, board outline (including tool dimensions) and NC drill file for the holes. I then have a post processor (Basically a scripting program and script) that takes the files and converts them to G-Code along with tool changes and clearance heights. Finally I just load the G-Code files into my MaxNC and run them in order, getting a completed board out at the end. This new version uses far less programs works with oval pads and is a lot more automated. Plus I have more control in Protel as to what happens. Chris Coley.

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the Homebrew_PCBs group. File : /setup.exe Uploaded by : hightechsystems1 <hightechsystems@...> Description : Demo PCB Software You can access this file at the URL http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/setup.exe To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files Regards, hightechsystems1 <hightechsystems@...>

Maybe some thin heat resistant tape over the edges to protect the drum. Is that 1/4 Oz board from Digikey? Look for printers that say something like "true straight-through paper path". Or dig through the piles of laser printers showing up now in thrift stores and just start hacking. Steve PS I'm hijacking this discussion to the Homebrew PCBs list! http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs --- Rick Talbert <rixtalbert@...> wrote: __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals http://personals.yahoo.com

Hi to the list! I usually hang out at the CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO list, but as I have been working towards using a CNC to "etch" a board, I thought I'd post a few comments here! Not that I'm anti-chemical (I've etched a few boards before), but I'm quite taken up with the CNC approach. I'd like to mention Eagle, which has a PCB layout program, it can generate the outline traces with an available script. http://www.cadsoftusa.com/ I'm even working on generating outlines myself from Gerber files. Alan KM6VV

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the Homebrew_PCBs group. File : /PCB Software/PC Logic/manual.pdf Uploaded by : hightechsystems1 <hightechsystems@...> Description : Manual You can access this file at the URL http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/PCB%20Software/PC%20Logic/manual.pdf To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files Regards, hightechsystems1 <hightechsystems@...>

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the Homebrew_PCBs group. File : /PCB Software/PC Logic/Demo limitations and pricing Uploaded by : alienrelics <alienrelics@...> Description : No file saving in Demo, see text file for more info You can access this file at the URL http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/PCB%20Software/PC%20Logic/Demo%20limitations%20and%20pricing To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files Regards, alienrelics <alienrelics@...>

www.simtel.net/pub/pd/25092.html I happen to be at the simtel site and ran across this. I know there has been a discussion about converting pcb layouts to gcode for cnc milling. hope this is of help. regards victor Faria

I don't know, you should join and ask. ;') http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/ I've used whatever Radio Shack sells and found at best it is adequate, at worst a waste of money and time. I've also used some dry stuff I think was Ammonium Persulfate that I was satisfied with. A colleague told me he's used a weak Nitric Acid mix to etch boards -very- quickly but you have to be well rested, have a lot of ventilation and really be paying attention. And your etch resist coating had better be complete. Steve Greenfield --- Tesla list <tesla@...> wrote: __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com

Original poster: "Malcolm Watts by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla@...>" <m.j.watts@...> HI Steve, The reason I asked was so that I wouldn't be duplicating otherwise available information. From the two replies I've received, it seems that the mixture I use is not widely known, so here it is. The basic mix: 1 part commercial grade hydrogen peroxide (about 30% I think), 1 part fuming hydrochloric acid, AND 6 - 8 parts water with the H2O2 and Hcl separately added *slowly* to the water. This concentration gives a useful etching speed. Waste products are copper II chloride (soluble with a low pH) and water. DO's: - Ventilation when pouring the Hcl out of the bottle - A *good* impervious resist with no pinholes - Occasional agitation to release small bubbles from the surface of the board - water at hand to wash yourself if you get acid or peroxide on your hands. The peroxide in particular will attack skin very rapidly and you'll feel it. DON'Ts: - *DO NOT* mix the undiluted acid and peroxide together. The mix will produce copious amounts of chlorine (none will be produced if the mixing directions above are followed). - be tempted to use a strong mix to make etching much faster. A strong mix will not only etch a board bare in a matter of seconds, it will boil as well (spatter factor). - be tempted to top up the acid and/or peroxide if the etching crawls to dead slow. Make a fresh mix instead. Too much acid gives the mix a green hue during etching and too much peroxide makes the copper appear shiny. Ideal is for an oystery sheen to cover the copper if the board is lifted out of the mix and drained. If the acid is becoming exhausted, insoluble blue deposits appear on the copper. A correct mix will give the mixture a blue colour, deepening as more copper is dissolved. The basic action seems to be that the peroxide oxidizes the copper leaving the oxide easy for the acid to deal with. Finally, the waste salt can be usefully mixed with sodium carbonate (washing soda) or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to make a useful anti-fungal spray for fruit trees. The result is copper carbonate (low solubility) which needs to be washed several times to remove the soluble NaCl. I started using this recipe about 30 years ago and it is a winner. No more awful stains or waiting for hours. I can't claim originality for it - I first saw it mentioned in a letter in an electronics periodical "Practical Electronics". Regards, Malcolm Fritz <twftesla@...>" <alienrelics@...> __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com