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RoHS question
I bought some USB cables and noticed the RoHS sticker on them and never really read much about the standard so I have a few questions. It states something about 0.1% lead is allowed but in the case of cables, does that take in the whole weight of the cable?? Or on a circuit board, how is the math actually based for the allowable limit of lead in the solder. And last but not least, I have never ever used no lead solder. Is is a good idea to buy some for future reference in case of reworking something that followed the standard? And if yes, are all no lead solders the same or do the have choices using differing amounts of the ingredients to make it?
Thanks Dave |
It doesn't really matter what the item is, the lead (or whatever) percentage
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is applied to each material used. So the cable is made of copper, steel, solder, a few different plastics and each of these needs to have under 0.1% lead. Kinda makes sense when you think about it, although documenting it would be "fun". For hobbyist it doesn't matter much what you use. Lead-free solders seem to have improved, I was at my soldering something at a friend house and only after I'd finished I noticed the solder was lead free. I think, like many things, the "lead free is terrible!!" rantings and raving are from people just repeating what they've read on the internet. Pretty sure it was this stuff: , tin with 0.7% copper. Whatever it was, it worked like normal lead-free, I'm sure there are alloys that are terrible. That said, I use lead free because I've still got heaps of it left. And besides, why switch when it's still cheaper: Tony -----Original Message-----math actually based for the allowable limit of lead in the solder. And last butnot least, I have never ever used no lead solder.the same or do the have choices using differing amounts of the ingredients to |
I think you meant to type, "leaded" instead of, "lead free" - your 2nd link is to classic 60-40 Sn-Pb solder. Some of the early Pb free solders were genuinely unpleasant to work with, enough so that whoever did the plumbing in my house chose to silver braze everything instead of using whatever Pb free soft solder was available locally.
Roy |
开云体育Ah yes, I did mean I still use the leaded stuff, maybe I should stop chewing it. ? And at least in Australian, you can buy it easily enough and it’s $10/roll cheaper than lead-free, so yay for us I guess. ? As far as RoHS, Wikipedia has a reasonable write-up: .? Huh, there’s 10 things on the list now. ? Weighing by individual materials eliminates cheating.? Say your cable is a metre long, weighs 1000 grams and the solder joints have 2 grams of lead, at 0.2% it’s double the limit.? No problems, just make the cable twice as long.? You still have the same amount of leaded solder but now 2 grams of lead in a 2000 gram cable is 0.1%, so it passes!? Everyone happy! ? Under RoHs both cables have 40% lead in the solder, so you need to sort that out. ? They don’t make the limit 0% because easier said than done, plus a tiny little bit of lead in steel & brass makes it easier to machine. ? Tony ? ? ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Roy via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, 27 October 2020 1:06 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [homebrewpcbs] RoHS question ? I think you meant to type, "leaded" instead of, "lead free" - your 2nd link is to classic 60-40 Sn-Pb solder. Some of the early Pb free solders were genuinely unpleasant to work with, enough so that whoever did the plumbing in my house chose to silver braze everything instead of using whatever Pb free soft solder was available locally. |
Jim Higgins
Received from Dave at 10/26/2020 23:23 UTC:
I bought some USB cables and noticed the RoHS sticker on them and never really read much about the standard so I have a few questions. It states something about 0.1% lead is allowed but in the case of cables, does that take in the whole weight of the cable?? No, it's based only on the weight of the components that are expected to contain lead... in this case the solder used can contain only 0.1% lead. Actually ROHS stands for "Restriction of Hazardous Substances" and it refers to a dozen or so other substances, not just lead, and the allowed percentage of each varies according to the substance involved... but we're just talking lead in this case. Or on a circuit board, how is the math actually based for the allowable limit of lead in the solder. It's based on the weight of the solder alone. And last but not least, I have never ever used no lead solder. Is is a good idea to buy some for future reference in case of reworking something that followed the standard? If you're a commercial enterprise, repairing an ROHS product with non-ROHS solder would be a be no-no. In the case of a hobbyist making things for himself and a few friends I wouldn't touch ROHS solder... not even for repair of ROHS products. In general it doesn't wet the parts nearly as well as tin-lead solder does so you're more likely to get a good joint with tin-lead... and wetability aside, during a repair you're also far less likely lift a PCB pad due to the higher temperature ROHS solder requires. And if yes, are all no lead solders the same or do the have choices using differing amounts of the ingredients to make it? They're not all the same. Neither are all lead containing solders. Jim H |
Thanks for the reply Tony. That is what I wanted to know as I have a lot of regular 60/40 and some 63/37 that ought to last me forever. I also see no need to overheat or burn up my pcb's when using the higher temps with lead free solder.
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Cheers, Dave On 10/26/2020 6:52 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
It doesn't really matter what the item is, the lead (or whatever) percentage |
Thanks Jim. That sorts out all of my questions and thoroughly answers them. I will stick with what I have as I have plenty to last forever.
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Dave On 10/27/2020 9:35 AM, Jim Higgins wrote:
Received from Dave at 10/26/2020 23:23 UTC:I bought some USB cables and noticed the RoHS sticker on them and never really read much about the standard so I have a few questions. It states something about 0.1% lead is allowed but in the case of cables, does that take in the whole weight of the cable?? |
开云体育Tony, ? Looks complicated but as Jim said I (we) shouldn't even worry
about it as hobbyists. Dave On 10/27/2020 5:08 AM, Tony Smith
wrote:
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开云体育RoHS doesn’t bother a lot of people, even if you’re repairing old gear where the tracks fall off if you look at them funny you’re still allowed to use leaded solder.? They’re full of lead and god only know what so redoing a couple of joints in lead-free isn’t going to save too many whales. ? It’s not all that complicated, just mainly nit-picking pedantic pen-pushing stuff.? I work in IT dealing with money, so I’m used to that sort of thing. ? If you making laptops or whatever you get a statement from whom you buy solder, PCB, wire etc from that says how much lead is in it.? You staple all those together and send it off to the EU and say “our laptops are made from this” and everyone is happy.? Of course this means you can’t buy the cheapest solder from Honest Johns Alibaba shop and things are a bit more difficult if you actually make solder, but that’s not most of us. ? Tony ? ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Wednesday, 28 October 2020 4:12 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [homebrewpcbs] RoHS question ? Tony, ? Looks complicated but as Jim said I (we) shouldn't even worry about it as hobbyists. Dave On 10/27/2020 5:08 AM, Tony Smith wrote:
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Jim Higgins
RoHS isn't a requirement that applies to consumers, incl hobbyists who might tinker with the product. It applies only to manufacturers. We - hobbyists - can repair even brand new RoHS compliant gear using tin-lead solder if we want to.
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RoHS is an EU thing dating from early 2003 that expanded industry wide because industry wants to do business with the EU. I have no idea how the low/no-lead portion of it was ever incorporated into products made for applications in space... since the problem of "tin whiskers" (Google it) in pure (or almost pure) tin solder was documented back when vacuum tubes were king and solid state didn't exist - in the early part of the 20th century. We (the USA) have had at least one satellite failure and one nuclear plant malfunction due to tin whiskers. In the case of a satellite - even a big expensive commsat as was the case - it's not really convenient to go up there to fix a connection that's growing a whisker that has caused a short circuit even if the short hasn't caused permanent damage. RoHS solder formulation has improved since those days and conformal coating over completed boards takes care of any remaining risk. Conformal coatings in consumer products make repairs much more difficult. Jim H Received from Tony Smith at 10/28/2020 04:43 UTC: RoHS doesn't bother a lot of people, even if you're repairing old gear where the tracks fall off if you look at them funny you're still allowed to use leaded solder. They're full of lead and god only know what so redoing a couple of joints in lead-free isn't going to save too many whales. |
Yes, we're in violent agreement.
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Unless you're a manufacturer, RoHS (or whatever your local flavour is) isn't a problem. Space vehicles are exempt from these regulations, I guess they figure not many of them are going to wind up in a landfill. For the tin whiskers, the problem wasn't lead-free solder, it's the tin plating on the copper tracks, something even hobbyists do. I think they nickel plate stuff like spacecraft PCBs now. Dunno if there is a chemical solution to do nickel plating on copper like you do with tin, but electroplating nickel is really easy. Tony -----Original Message-----might tinker with the product. It applies only to manufacturers. We - hobbyists- can repair even brand new RoHS compliant gear using tin-lead solder if wein pure (or almost pure) tin solder was documented back when vacuum tubes werethere to fix a connection that's growing a whisker that has caused a shortcircuit even if the short hasn't caused permanent damage. RoHS solder formulationmany whales.sort of thing.of us.
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Jim,
There is a raft of information on tin whiskers at one of the NASA sites: Some really great (scary) photos As you can see on the NASA site, there actually were several communications sat failures due to whiskers. The one that most people remember is the Galaxy 4 Panamsat. That is the one that was carrying most of the pager traffic in the US. I worked on equipment that went on the replacement sat. If ever there was a customer that was jittery and over protective about tin, that one was it. He was right! As to how the tin got onto the sats, you will see several examples of things that were overlooked. "Everybody" knew that the leads on the ICs, transistors and most electronic parts were tin plated, so we had them solder dipped. We went out of our way to make sure the terminal posts we bought were solder plated, or solder dipped. When we inspected some of the terminal posts that looked odd for solder plate, we found that some were tin plated. At that point we stepped up our inspection for the finish, and we found that the suppliers were ignoring the solder requirement, and sending tin finish because they were in stock. Other structural hardware sometimes was tin plated. Several corrective actions were taken to replace them. Conformal coat does not protect against tin whiskers. The whiskers are really sharp, and push through the coatings. They also take on all kinds of odd shapes, and have been seen to curl over and touch each other. They also can break off, and become lodged in areas that are not coated. Harvey |
开云体育Tony, ? I get the idea now. I was just making sure I didn't need any
lead-free stuff. And I am just a hobbyist and still somewhat a
noob at that when it comes to electronics. But I sure have learned
a lot over the years but keep getting interrupted and cannot stay
100% focused on my projects. Sometimes I buy the same resistors
and other components over again. Some projects feel like I have
been working on them for years and I almost have to relearn the
software (for a few minutes) to get back to where I left off. I
have learned buying cables is easier than making them although I
have made quite a few, they never look professional to sell. I
have tried many pcb softwares but have settled on DipTrace. I have
learned that etching my own boards is work that still doesn't look
professional enough for me as I have to figure out the silk
screening next. Easier and cheap enough to have them made. Still a
noob, but getting there...:) On 10/27/2020 11:43 PM, Tony Smith
wrote:
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Jim,
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? I read about tin whiskers a long time ago but didn't much worry about them as I wasn't making pcb's etc then. I just read about them before you brought them up. I came to the conclusion that the "tin" was the problem and not the solder. After seen some microscopic images it looks pretty wild and plenty of room for disaster. In fact, I bought some Tinning solution but only used it once. I also bought the crystals but never used them. Now I have quickly advanced (with my most basic and useless projects) to getting my boards made. I am waiting for my first order to arrive hopefully next week. :) Then after I really any mistakes or things I should have done different, I will have learned something so it's all good. On 10/28/2020 12:19 PM, Jim Higgins wrote:
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Tony,
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? I tinned some of my first home made pcb's but never again. And the boards I ordered are of the ENIG variety. No rocket science comes out of my hobby. :) On 10/28/2020 3:08 PM, Tony Smith wrote:
Yes, we're in violent agreement. |
开云体育Harvey, ? Interesting link on the tin whiskers. And a weird phenomena. On 10/28/2020 4:55 PM, Harvey
Altstadter wrote:
Jim, |
开云体育replies interleaved On 10/29/2020 10:49 AM, Dave wrote:
I avoid it, nasty working on older PC boards that are more
fragile.? Iron is too hot and soldering can take too long
depending on the lead free solder.
I buy in bulk, the cost of resistors and capacitors goes down
dramatically when buying in 100 lots, but then again, that's
surface mount parts.? I' suggest a spread sheet of the resistors
and capacitors (and whatever else) you buy, making them preferred
parts, and using them where possible.
The comments in the code aren't for when you're designing it,
they're for when you redesign it 6 months later.?
Assuming you use toner transfer, the thick white film is not optimal, but does work.? I just generally skipped that step, but I did put some labels in the ground pour. Not that Harvey: Harvey
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Jim Higgins
Dave,
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I doubt you need to worry about tin whiskers as a hobbyist... not due to the solder or to tin plated traces or parts. I consider the lower ability to "wet" the connection and higher required temperature for RoHS solder to be the larger drawbacks to using it. 73 de Jim, KB3PU Received from Dave at 10/29/2020 14:55 UTC: Jim, |
Jim,
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? Well that is perfect. No worries, be happy. :-) What more could one ask for. Thanks for the info. Dave On 10/29/2020 10:38 AM, Jim Higgins wrote:
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replies interleaved from me too. :)
On 10/29/2020 10:15 AM, Harvey White wrote: ---I am so glad everybody agrees on this no lead solder being something we don't have to use. ---I buy in bulk too. I just ordered a few hundred resistors from in the states and 3 sets of 1000 resistors from abroad (not a girl). LOL But as a noob I want to start making a SMT PCB and copy what I have already made with thru hole technology. Buy I always want the big SMT parts and there are not as available even from ebay and seeing even the big parts are relatively small, it will make it easier to start with I think. I will revisit ebay to see if anything has changed. But I have started buying off a roll from overseas some resistors mainly. The spreadsheet is a great idea, why didn't I think of that. But I did buy some of those large Stanley compartment boxes and am getting organized. I bought 12 of these:And I am just a hobbyist and still somewhat a noob at that when it comes to electronics. But I sure have learned a lot over the years but keep getting interrupted and cannot stay 100% focused on my projects. Sometimes I buy the same resistors and other components over again.I buy in bulk, the cost of resistors and capacitors goes down dramatically when buying in 100 lots, but then again, that's surface mount parts.? I' suggest a spread sheet of the resistors and capacitors (and whatever else) you buy, making them preferred parts, and using them where possible. ---Not those comments. I am used to REM statements and other ways to comment code. I was referring to re-familiarizing myself with the PCB making software. I went through a view different ones so by changing softwares until I was happy it was easy to be a little confuse as they are all different. I settled on DipTrace.Some projects feel like I have been working on them for years and I almost have to relearn the software (for a few minutes) to get back to where I left off.The comments in the code aren't for when you're designing it, they're for when you redesign it 6 months later. ---My toner transfer and laminator worked perfect. I was referring to the solder mask and the silkscreen. I bought some colored UV paints in a tube but never tried it. Looked like a pain.I have learned buying cables is easier than making them although I have made quite a few, they never look professional to sell. I have tried many pcb softwares but have settled on DipTrace. I have learned that etching my own boards is work that still doesn't look professional enough for me as I have to figure out the silk screening next. Easier and cheap enough to have them made. Still a noob, but getting there...:)Assuming you use toner transfer, the thick white film is not optimal, but does work.? I just generally skipped that step, but I did put some labels in the ground pour. ---Thanks Harvey. Not that Harvey: Harvey |