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You've got it. The resistance should definitely be less than ten ohms in normal service. The "R 1m" value is specified so that test equipment can be specified, expecting that ICT can check for "less

I think I figured it out enough to make sense of it. The 1.5 ohms will likely be the normal state and if a short occurs the resistance will quickly rise to the 10 ohms and trip the PTC fuse. That

OK...we can scratch alcohol off the list! :D) On Thu, 7 Nov 2019 05:15:33 +0100 "stefan_trethan" <stefan_trethan@...> writes: I've tried thinning old dry paste with denatured alcohol and the

Thanks for the info Mike! On Thu, 7 Nov 2019 13:59:25 -0600 "K5ESS via Groups.Io" <k5ess.nothdurft@...> writes: The MSDS for the ChipQuick solder past lists

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/240/Littelfuse_PTC_1206L_Datasheet.pdf-477012.pdf In reference to the part number 1206L010/60 (second one down in top list), I have a question. Resistance R (min)

The MSDS for the ChipQuick solder past lists Terpineol. https://www.amazon.com/CCS-Terpineol-Purity-Aroma-Compound/dp/B00YYCRJXG/ref=sr_1_2?hvadid=7019209758

In addition to what Stefan said, I'd say it's probably not worth it. If the reliability of the joints is compromised by attempts to "rejuvenate" dead paste, how much is lost and how much is gained? I

No, all the liquid flux I had back then was in ethanol or isopropanol solvent anyway. I'm sure there is a way, ideally just figure out what liquid they use in the first place, but after that

Had you tried thinning it with flux? And you may have used too much, I can see the stuff boiling from here. Harvey

I've tried thinning old dry paste with denatured alcohol and the result was that the components popped off the board like popcorn as soon as I heated it up. ST

Thanks Donald.... So, in a way it's like paint...solvent evaporates and the solids settle out. I just wonder what chemical the "medium" is....and if more of the same were added and mixed would that

Hi Jim, Ok on the environment. Figured that but didn't know if there was more to it than that. I know that lead free needs higher temps and components also need to be able to take the higher temps,

Harvey, I figured the environment was the main reason but I wasn't sure if it was the only reason. I know the majority of the people don't seem to like it though. Well, that is all good news then. I

Received from Dave at 11/6/2019 15:02 UTC: The reason is environmental... lead being harmful. Absolutely yes. In reality it takes almost 3X as long to thoroughly wet a joint when soldering with

The reason for lead free solders is that a lot of the electronics equipment gets dumped in a landfill.? The lead leaches out and gets into the ground.? In the EU, environmentally conscious people

Harvey, ? I was hoping to avoid "lead free" solders altogether but I am sure there is a good reason for them. I will continue to avoid them as long as I can. But, that brings up a new question. Now

Harvey, ? All good info. I have watched videos that show some things I always wondered how they did that without a machine doing it for them. Very interesting. I recently watched a guy using a tip

Hi Jim, ? Thanks for the info. I have heard of tin whiskers although never had any dealings with them. I was thinking about building a reflow oven although my needs are small as a hobbyist, I like

Thanks for the info Dwayne. Water soluble flux sounds like the way to go. Dave

Somewhat easier method, but it diverges after you tack down the opposite pins.? If you don't do that, then the solder hardening pulls the chip out of alignment, so do diagonals first then go for the