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Premium Quality PCB at Low Cost
sam_jiangs
Hi, there:
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Re: Thick PCB
At 04:58 PM 2/20/02 +0000, juberset wrote:
How thick can you make a PCB ?We routinely get PCBs made 1/8" thick (by a production house) for that very purpose. Its not cheap - they cost 3 or 4 times the cost of a standard 1/16" board. But the customer wanted it that way and paid for it. So - no problem! dwayne Dwayne Reid <dwayner@...> Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA (780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax Celebrating 18 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2002) .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .- `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address. This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email. |
Re: Thick PCB
In a message dated 20-Feb-02 11:00:13 Central Standard Time,
jim.ubersetzig@... writes: How thick can you make a PCB ?Jim: I haven't "looked ahead" to see if someone with more cerebral mass has already more intelligently answered, already, but here's MY 2? "hobby experience" worth toward this question: "FR-4", the Fire Retardent green epoxy-glass presently more common than the previously-popular G-10 "same thing" comes in 1/64" through 1/8" thick versions with NO copper at all, copper only on ONE side, copper on BOTH sides, 1/2, 1.0, and 2.0 oz. "weights) (the copper-thickness; I never learned how thick an "ounce" is!). The 1/8" is plenty tough! But if you needed something as thick as 1/4", to drive Sherman tanks across (that'd mess up the nicest solder-masks and PTH!!!), I THINK you would have to do one of TWO things: Order some SPECIAL-made, or find who may have already done so, and still has some on hand, he's willing to sell, or two, GLUE-UP some, putting non-copper-sides together. I have never learned the howzits of multi-layer PCB-makin', but in that, layers are heat-laminated in a 'spensive press, once the inner-layers of copper are etched. Drilling is last. Whew, a 'spensive mess! Anyway, the PRESS for glueing that up to make thicker (multi-layer) boards is not only expensive, but incredibly powerful in terms of PSI on the laminate, and I THINK they can also heat the layup. Find a jovial PCB firm near yoy and go hassle 'em! Jan Rowland, old troll [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
Re: Thick PCB
caveteursus
If you have to do it yourself, you can laminate two boards with epoxy
resin -- won't be fireproof anymore, however. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., JanRwl@A... wrote: In a message dated 20-Feb-02 11:00:13 Central Standard Time,mass has already more intelligently answered, already, but here's MY2? "hobby experience" worth toward this question:than the previously-popular G-10 "same thing" comes in 1/64" through 1/8"thick versions with NO copper at all, copper only on ONE side, copper onBOTH sides, 1/2, 1.0, and 2.0 oz. "weights) (the copper-thickness; Inever learned how thick an "ounce" is!). The 1/8" is plenty tough! But if youneeded something as thick as 1/4", to drive Sherman tanks across (that'dmess up the nicest solder-masks and PTH!!!), I THINK you would have to do oneof TWO things: Order some SPECIAL-made, or find who may have alreadydone so, and still has some on hand, he's willing to sell, or two, GLUE-UP some,putting non-copper-sides together. I have never learned the howzits ofmulti-layer PCB-makin', but in that, layers are heat-laminated in a 'spensivepress, once the inner-layers of copper are etched. Drilling is last. Whew,a 'spensive mess!boards is not only expensive, but incredibly powerful in terms of PSI on thelaminate, and I THINK they can also heat the layup. Find a jovial PCB firmnear yoy and go hassle 'em! |
Re: How I make Pcbs
High Tech
This was bounced back so I am posting it here.
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Sean I actually purchased my tank at Circuit Specialists. Here is the spec sheet on it. As you can see it uses a standard fish tank heater and pump. The air is pumped into the side at the top and it travels down the side to small holes in the bottom its that simple. You just want gentle agitation of the ferric chloride. Pick up the FeCl at any radio shack. The heater need to be set till the tank is warm to the touch. It takes only about 3-5 mins to etch the board. Use gloves and other safety equipment. Hope this helps Derek -----Original Message-----
From: duzallcnc [mailto:duzallcnc1@...] Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 2:29 AM To: High Tech Subject: Re: How I make Pcbs Hi Derek, I made a tank like you described with a heater. while I was at the store buying the heater I wondered about the pump. Is there a particular arraingement for the output? Can you give detials of your solder tank and its operation. Thanks Sean - In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., "High Tech" <hightechsystems@a...> wrote: Hi everyoneyears. I have made 1000's of boards using a method that some do not likebut I have had excellent results with. First I design the board on my computerusing an old program that runs in dos but is very easy to use.of the board.the final trace to the blue sheet.might very, for 1min. till the traces can be seen through the back of the bluesheet. Use little pressure let the iron do the work if traces are smearingor spreading then the heat is too high or your applying too muchpressure. You then peel the blue sheet off when it barely warm not yet cold.If you have a bad trace such as a cross over this can be corrected veryeasily by using a dental tool to scrape off the connected traces.pump 3min. and you have a board.had a bad board.lettering or green coating, my boards are put in a box and never seen. They havebeen working for 7years on equipment so I must be doing it right.coating etc. |
Re: ultrasonic cleaners
Jon:
Here are some various electronic links. Perhaps one or more will be of interest/use to you. I realize Radio Shack is a Yank firm, but I have seen them there in smaller towns outside London, so perhaps there is one near you. The ones here, at least, carry "basic" books, and if you can find one with a helpful/friendly staffer, you might become a PhD in a week! Regards, and good luck! Jan Rowland, Old Ugly Yank with attitude. <A href="aol://5863:126/mB:197359">Electronic Projects</A> <A href=">Electronics</A> <A href=">Don Lancaster's GURU'S LAIR home page</A> <A href=">Diana's Electronics Info Page</A> <A href=">555 tutorial</A> <A href=">HowStuffWorks - Learn how Everything Works!</A> |
ultrasonic cleaners
J Mitchell
Hi,
I have been lurking on this list for ages, as I want to learn more about electronics (especially interfacing pic chips to the real world), but as of yet I am still learning and mostly confused! :o) Although I can assemble small project PCBs and roughly understand how they work, my understanding of why "that" resistor is "there" is next to zero. I have a couple of questions for the group. 1. are there any good basic electronic foundation tutorials on the net? all the ones I find are too basic (like what a resistor is) 2. Anyone here have any experience of ultrasonic cleaning baths? I have the schematic for the electrical side, with an explanation of many of the components, but I have no idea what specific components to use, anyone interested in looking at the schematic, helping me make one of these and furthering my electrical experience and understanding? thanks in advance Jon PS: Anyone here ever known someone to buy one of the cheap (under $300) fibrescopes? (also known as a borescope or endoscope)... I would love one of these, but I suspect they are trash. |
Re: ultrasonic cleaners
Some good places to look for links to tutorials:
A good place for links and to ask for help learning electronics: The ultrasonic cleaner schematics should have part numbers for the transistors. I'd suggest going to the Electronics_101 list, post the schematic to the files section and ask for help there. I'm on that list also, there are over 1000 members. Steve Greenfield --- J Mitchell <jonster_man@...> wrote: Hi, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games |
Re: ultrasonic cleaners
J Mitchell
Thanks, checking it out now!
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No part numbers on the schematic :o( but its a very simple looking circuit.... will try the 101 group. jon ----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Greenfield To: Homebrew_PCBs@... Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 12:58 AM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] ultrasonic cleaners Some good places to look for links to tutorials: A good place for links and to ask for help learning electronics: The ultrasonic cleaner schematics should have part numbers for the transistors. I'd suggest going to the Electronics_101 list, post the schematic to the files section and ask for help there. I'm on that list also, there are over 1000 members. Steve Greenfield --- J Mitchell <jonster_man@...> wrote: > Hi, > > I have been lurking on this list for ages, as I want > to learn more about electronics (especially > interfacing pic chips to the real world), but as of > yet I am still learning and mostly confused! :o) > > Although I can assemble small project PCBs and > roughly understand how they work, my understanding > of why "that" resistor is "there" is next to zero. > > I have a couple of questions for the group. > > 1. are there any good basic electronic foundation > tutorials on the net? all the ones I find are too > basic (like what a resistor is) > > 2. Anyone here have any experience of ultrasonic > cleaning baths? I have the schematic for the > electrical side, with an explanation of many of the > components, but I have no idea what specific > components to use, anyone interested in looking at > the schematic, helping me make one of these and > furthering my electrical experience and > understanding? > > thanks in advance > > Jon > > PS: Anyone here ever known someone to buy one of > the cheap (under $300) fibrescopes? (also known as a > borescope or endoscope)... I would love one of > these, but I suspect they are trash. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
Printing, just printing PCB layouts
caveteursus
I was wondering if anyone had a better way of "printing" PCB outlines
for reproduction. I use Ultiboard as my design, routing program. It allows saving the document to Adobe through Distiller. When I open the document (in Acrobat) and magnify it, however, it looks as if the doc has been saved as a somewhat rough bit-mapped file. If I just print the diagram to my laserjet, everything looks great. For now, I have been fixing up the jaggies in a drawing program. Time consuming. Anyone have a better way -- scanning in hi-res produces too big a file btw. |
Re: Printing, just printing PCB layouts
At 05:43 PM 2/26/02 +0000, caveteursus wrote:
I was wondering if anyone had a better way of "printing" PCB outlinesPrintGL from Cary Ravitz. <> dwayne Dwayne Reid <dwayner@...> Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA (780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax Celebrating 18 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2002) .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .- `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address. This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email. |
Re: Printing, just printing PCB layouts
Karlis
Maybe you are using incorrect settings for Distiller? IIRC there was
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something about resolution (DPI). KPL I was wondering if anyone had a better way of "printing" PCB outlines |
Re: Printing, just printing PCB layouts
Dave Hylands
Maybe you are using incorrect settings for Distiller? IIRC there wasDistiller does have a resolution setting, but this may not help you. Distiller keeps vector objects in the PostScript as vector objects in the PDF. It has the ability to resample raster objects, so if the underlying image in the PostScript has more resolution, then you can improve things by turning off resampling. Turn it off for all image types (under the Compression Tab in Job Options). I would set Compression to ZIP, so that you're using lossless compression. Otherwise, the resolution setting is for PostScript that queries to determine what raster resolution is being used. I would set it to a number like 1200 or 2400, and only set it smaller if you're experiencing file size/display speed issues. In Acrobat, if you crank up the magnification and you see the pixels getting bigger, then you're looking at raster objects. If the pixels stay at screen resolution, then you're looking at vector objects. Acrobat normally displays at around 75 dpi, so at the maximum zoom setting of 1600%, you're one screen pixel corresponds to approximately 1200 dpi. Most newer laser printers are 600 or 1200 dpi. Dave Hylands |
Re: Plated Thru Hole at Home
In a message dated 27-Feb-02 10:42:43 Central Standard Time,
j_hallows@... writes: Other than using eyelets has anyone made Plated Thru Hole at Home and DITTO! I have OFTEN needed "onesy-twosey" PCB's with PTH, and have had to use "jumper wires", eyelets, or have 'em made by the local PCB house for $450 each! Seems plating-through should be within the realm of us ol' home-brewers who can make a double-sided board, if we just knew the steps, and where to get the chemistry to plate the holes before etching. You DO know, doncha, that the PTH is done FIRST, then "SOLDER-plating" of the desired pattern (including through the holes!), and etch LAST, with chemistry that will etch copper, but NOT "solder". Someone TELL us how! GOOD topic! |
Re: Plated Thru Hole at Home
At 10:43 PM 2/28/02 -0500, JanRwl@... wrote:
In a message dated 27-Feb-02 10:42:43 Central Standard Time,I use 2 methods: 'Track Pins' made by Harwin (UK, I think). We used to get them from Arrow/Bell but I don't know if they still have them. These are a stick of tapered pins that you push into the hole, then snap off. Nice tight fit into a #66 hole. Quick, fast, reliable. Only down side is that they are good for vias only - they fill the hole so you can't put a component lead through. Multicore makes a system called Copperset <> This is a little stick of solid solder which has copper and tin electroplated over it. It is then scored at intervals slightly more than the average PCB thickness. You drill the via holes to the correct diameter, then insert the stick and snap off the vias one at at time. You then use an impact punch to squash the via - doing so causes the solid solder rod to expand the copper / tin coating so as to grip the sides of the hole in the PCB. Solder both sides of the via, then vacuum out the solder if you need to put a component lead in. I have one and use if occasionally - it works well but is actually more work than the Harwin Track pins I mentioned earlier. It works best if you use it before the board is populated - place the board on a smooth steel surface, insert the feed-through pins, then set them with the impact punch. dwayne Dwayne Reid <dwayner@...> Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA (780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax Celebrating 18 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2002) .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .- `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address. This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email. |
Re: Plated Thru-Holes
j_hallows
Yes I read all these but does anyone have any experince?
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., "electronic_workshop" <hans@c...> wrote: This link has a good description using conductive ink to actiavtethe holes and then plate on that.ID
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Re: Plated Thru Hole at Home
j_hallows
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., JanRwl@A... wrote:
each! Seems plating-through should be within the realm of us ol'steps, and where to get the chemistry to plate the holes before etching.Could not agree more. I know the thoery but the practice it's a whole different ball park. You DO know, doncha, that the PTH is done FIRST, then "SOLDER-plating" of the desired pattern (including through the holes!), and etch LAST,Took me sometime to figure this one out. But it's not solder but tinned. And the process is called pattern plating. As a homebrewer it is too expensive for me to send boards out to make. If I could only find out a simple way to make plated thru holes at home without killing myself. And eyelets and baluns are too time consuming. |
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