开云体育

At 07:56 11/01/2002 -0800, you wrote:

First off, let's take this off list.

Before you take it off list...

In addition to real live viruses, there are also a number of hoaxes doing the rounds - email messages, again that you will receive from people you know, with messages of the form "Go look on your hard disk for file named XXX.YYY & if you find it, delete it & flush it out of your trash can. Then send this message to everyone you know". The result, if you take it seriously, is that you delete a perfectly good Windows utility file or whatever, and tell your mates to do the same.

If you get messages like this, you can look up the encyclopedias held by people like Symantec (who sell Norton Antivirus), Macafee, etc. and check whether the warning is real or not before you a) damage your own system or b) make a complete a$$ of yourself by sending the hoax on to your mates/colleauges/clients etc.

I have had about 6 of these forwarded to me in the last year by people who didn't know any better!

Regards,
Tony

I want to get a plotter what would be the right one I now have a
calcomp 1034 and it can not be used for this type of work . What
would be the best one to get.Thank you group I have seen a lot up for
bid on E-bay

I gave myself a Christmas present, the current edition of the
ARRL's "Hints and Kinks". The author recommends Staedler Lumocolor
318's which he fits into one of the refillable plotter pens. (That
is, he cuts the marker with a utility knife and fits it, tip and all,
into the carcass of refillable pen. (I guess that it's kind of
messy, but that hasn't stopped any of us in the past.)

HP7475 pcb construction:
"
FAST AND EASY PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
Like many hams, I prefer to build some of my gear. I started etching
my own PC boards several years ago, and I have tried
several methods. The least expensive approach is hand-drawing the
pattern on the board with a permanent marker. This can be
very time consuming and does not easily permit a good parts density,
so it wastes copper.

I use Ultiboard, so have the option of generating output in HP
Graphics Language or Gerber. Looking at the file of the same project
produced in the two languages, it seems to me that it would be
fastest to use a translation of Gerber to HP G/L -- convert
the "tools" that Gerber flashes for different pad sizes and trace
widths to different pen sizes.

With HP G/L and Ultiboard, a circle is drawn with the "Arc Absolute"
command, using a chord angle of 1 degree. This is very slow. I
use "Search and Replace" to change the chord angle to 15 or 30
degrees which speeds it up dramatically. I guess you could
use "Search and Replace" to draw a circle using CI, but this assumes
that the current pen position is the center of the circle (which it
is not) and you need to recalculate the coordinates with a little
trig to determine the true center of a circle.

I'm fed up with Easy-PC and put it up for auction at eBay.


t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1011923141&indexURL=0&rd=1

I've been using positive photo sensitized board. If you use a PCB
layout and print transparencies in positive it is possible to get 8
mil lines every day.

BTW I'm selling a PCB and schematic capture program at eBay


t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1011923141&indexURL=0&rd=1

Currently the first bids stands at 1 penny.. but that may be too much
to ask.. !


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., "caveteursus" <j.walton@a...> wrote:

I gave myself a Christmas present, the current edition of the
ARRL's "Hints and Kinks". The author recommends Staedler Lumocolor
318's which he fits into one of the refillable plotter pens. (That
is, he cuts the marker with a utility knife and fits it, tip and

all,

into the carcass of refillable pen. (I guess that it's kind of
messy, but that hasn't stopped any of us in the past.)

HP7475 pcb construction:
"
FAST AND EASY PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
Like many hams, I prefer to build some of my gear. I started etching
my own PC boards several years ago, and I have tried
several methods. The least expensive approach is hand-drawing the
pattern on the board with a permanent marker. This can be
very time consuming and does not easily permit a good parts density,
so it wastes copper.

Hello,

I'm a beginner in the world of making PCBs.

I seek for a website which offers cheap Ferric Chloride and a Etch
resist pen (that's all I need, right?)


Best Regards,
Aviv Revach

Not sure where to direct you for the ferric chloride, but I have used the
Sharpie brand marker pens made by Sanford for etch resistant pens and they
worked great. Available in a variety of widths and available at the local
office supply store.

Tim
[Denver, CO]

--- jolp9 <jolp@...> wrote:

Hello,

I'm a beginner in the world of making PCBs.

I seek for a website which offers cheap Ferric
Chloride and a Etch
resist pen (that's all I need, right?)

Where do you live? What country, I mean.

Etch resist pens are just those permanent laundry
marking pens.

You can also get sheets of rub-on shapes of PCB traces
and IC pin patterns. They work just fine directly on
the copper as etch resist.

I'm in the USA and there is Radio Shack in almost
every town. You can also order from companies such as
Digikey and Mouser


Look through some of the past messages for opinions on
different kinds of etchant. Ferric Chloride has its
own set of problems. I don't like it because it is
just way too slow.

Steve Greenfield

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!

I've started a group called SumoRobot. Sumo Robots or
SumoBots are small robots that try and push each other
out of a small flat ring area. They are -not- supposed
to damage each other. There are numerous weight
classes from Ant-weight of several hundred grams to
Japanese Sumo class at 3 to 5Kg.



I intend to advertize to get people to the list. Other
robotics lists are more general than I am looking for.
I'm interested personally in the autonomous 500g Sumo
Robots but discussion of other Sumo Robot classes is
welcome and invited.

I've already posted a small number of links in the
Bookmarks section there. I'm interested in more links,
especially to suppliers of motors, gearing, wheels,
and pre-geared motors.

Steve Greenfield
Team Evil Genius


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!

check out www.lavenir.com for a free Gerber viewer.

they also have a 516 page pdf file which has all the d-code
conversions etc

Hello,

Etch resist pens are just those permanent laundry
marking pens.

So I only need to seek for a permanent marking pen?
Do you know the exact material which is used in these sort of pens?
(so I could check whether it is found in the pen' description)

You can also get sheets of rub-on shapes of PCB traces
and IC pin patterns. They work just fine directly on
the copper as etch resist.

Yeah, I know these sort of sheets, but I rather design my own PCB,
print and etch it to the board (the rub-on shapes don't fit complex
designs, at least that's what I think...)

I'm in the USA and there is Radio Shack in almost
every town. You can also order from companies such as
Digikey and Mouser

RadioShack just openned two new stores in Israel. I'm going there
today in order to see if they are selling the "Complete PCB making
kit" that was once sold in their website.

Thanks for the links, I will pay a visit to those websites.

Look through some of the past messages for opinions on
different kinds of etchant. Ferric Chloride has its
own set of problems. I don't like it because it is
just way too slow.

What would you offer me to use?
A link to a website that sells it would be nice ;)


Best Regards,
Aviv Revach

They are in the "Drafting" section of STAPLES, not in the "Pens"
section. There is a little kit of 4 with different widths for a
couple bucks.

I had been unable to find the specific Staedtler #318
Lumocolor locally.

But I see Office Depot carries a Staedtler Lumocolor
pen meant for marking directly onto non-coated CDs.
Which means ultrasmooth, which means they should work
on copper.

Listed as waterproof and permanent. I'm going to pick
one up and try it. I'll let you know how it works.

Steve

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!

In a message dated 28-Jan-02 10:34:57 Central Standard Time,
alienrelics@... writes:

Listed as waterproof and permanent. I'm going to pick
one up and try it. I'll let you know how it works.

DO, please! Jan Rowland

I've made a little test and have found another permanent marker that works
better for me.
It is Faber-Castell, OHP-PLUS1523.
In FeCl solution it was still on the copper when Staedler Lumocolor was
allready gone.
Anyway results was not satisfactory, maybe a different kind of solution
required. The copper under the marked lines was damaged a bit.

KPL

Hi all,

What methods do back-yarders use to get the sharpest
PCB tracks? Photographic? Milling?

--- Russell Shaw <rjshaw@...> wrote:

Hi all,

What methods do back-yarders use to get the sharpest
PCB tracks? Photographic? Milling?

I've never done PCB milling, but I have done
photographic. And it is very sharp and professional
looking, professional looking as your mask. I've used
both positive precoated boards and spray-it-yourself
negative. Both have good and bad points, mostly
overcome by computer aided drafting.

I've used drafting tape and those rub-on shapes, and
I've used photocopies on mylar but I usually had to
repair the masks (pinholes). Anyone remember that blue
film? It was on a backing and you cut out parts of it
with an Xacto knife to create a mask. A real pain in
the neck, I hated the stuff. Just try and cut out IC
pads with an Xacto.

Steve Greenfield


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!

In a message dated 29-Jan-02 03:00:04 Central Standard Time,
rjshaw@... writes:

What methods do back-yarders use to get the sharpest
PCB tracks? Photographic? Milling?

When I need best I can do without having a pro-shop do etching, I use
contact-printing of negatives with Kepro stuff. But I haven't done a
home-brew "photographic" in so long I don't even know what the various
solutions were called!

I have done nothing more complex than a 6-IC little lashup in years, and I
get by with Radio Shack and whoevermailorderitwas "pressure sensitive"
"rub-on" stuff. That works really fine, if done right, actually!

Jan Rowland, Old Troll

JanRwl@... wrote:

In a message dated 29-Jan-02 03:00:04 Central Standard Time,
rjshaw@... writes:

What methods do back-yarders use to get the sharpest
PCB tracks? Photographic? Milling?

When I need best I can do without having a pro-shop do etching, I use
contact-printing of negatives with Kepro stuff. But I haven't done a
home-brew "photographic" in so long I don't even know what the various
solutions were called!

I have done nothing more complex than a 6-IC little lashup in years, and I
get by with Radio Shack and whoevermailorderitwas "pressure sensitive"
"rub-on" stuff. That works really fine, if done right, actually!

I was wondering how much resolution the various
methods get. I've found the best printers are
epson stylus colour inkjets (400 and higher),
used with epson transparencies (its coated
with an absorbing layer instead of 'sandpaper').
Using a lightbox etc, i can get 6-8mil tracks
and spacing. Works with precoated negative
boards, and spray-on positive resist (PRP).