You are correct, the view with the camera isn't exactly what you'll see through the eye pieces. The problem is that sliding barrel that's used to attach the camera to the body. I've purchased one of these to fix that problem: . There are plenty of times during a video where I'm working away on a board that's fine in scope view but it's out of the scene with the camera.
If you're going the route of using a camera, be sure to get a scope that's Simulview or something like that. Some of the lower end scopes with a camera are listed as trinocular but what they have is a lever that flips the image from an eyepiece to the camera leaving you with just one eye to view what you're working on.
On Fri, Nov 1, 2019 at 6:13 AM Dave <theschemer@...> wrote:
Thanks for the info. I checked out your website and looked at the view.
Don't know if I need the camera but I guess it wouldn't hurt to have
that option. I read that the camera's vie isn't in the same place as the
binoculars view. Is that true?
Dave
On 10/31/2019 7:45 PM, Mark Schoonover wrote:
> I have the trinocular version of this scope. I needed the camera for
> creating YouTube videos. See website.
>
> You are correct on viewing angle you need to see exactly through the
> center of the eye piece. Also the little fluorescent light isn't
> bright enough under higher mag so splurge for the led version. The
> other issue you'll have is solder fumes if you're working on a board.
> Get a good fume extractor too. You can see the quality of the view in
> some of my videos to give you an idea what you'll see.
>
> 73! Mark KA6WKE
>