Hi all,

I have just joined this group and thought I'd share the method that I use to make PCB's. I have used a variety of methods over the years beginning with Plastic tape of 2 different colours on drafting film being double size and photographed using filters to separate the two colours and creating 2 negatives, then coating blank pcb with photoresist and drying then exposing and developing. It used to take ages to get a pcb from a design. Then when?the design didn't work.....?(Boy, did I really do all that!)

Now I use Protel Autotrax and simply print to a laser printer which I use as the positive phototool and I spray CRC onto this (as recommended by a screen printer) which makes the paper more translucent. I allow this to dry under a heat lamp, line up the two sides on a light box and tape them together. I then use KINSTEN positive acting PCB material which has a green coating and is very cheap (about $3.00 U.S. for a 100mm x 150mm sheet) I made a light box with a double fluro batten top and bottom using 4 x Philips TL20W/05 tubes and a central shelf with the centre cut out with a jigsaw. A couple of sheets of window glass which I place the pcb/artwork between. Expose for 12mins and develop in Sodium Metasilicate or KINSTEN DP50 developer (also very cheap) and etch in an Amonium Persulphate Solution in a KINSTEN tank with air bubbles from an aquarium pump. Voila! A very quick and amazingly accurate way to make prototype pcb's. I use 15 thou tracks min but could probably go thinner.

I have never tried the direct toner to pcb method but after reading from this group might give it a go.

Regards,

Paul Waller

University of Tasmania

Australia.