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Hi - new to me Leslie 147A - connected via 6 conductor cable to my B3 console. Wiring to 6 pin socket is as follows: Pin 1 - brown Pin 2 - Leslie half moon Pin 3 - gray and other leg of Leslie half moon Pin 4 - blue Pin 5 - jumpered to 4 Pin 6 - black AO-28 was recapped about 3 years ago and had no hum with Leslie 770 Sample here: https://youtu.be/h7AbZlyV3qI Appreciate advice and pointers to troubleshoot Joel

Hi I am trying to connect my Hammond A100 to my Leslie 251 (with the reverb going to the second stationary Chanel) Parts I have - Leslie half moon Main-Ensemble-Echo switch and Chorale-Tremolo switch, Six pin Leslie cable, Six pin sockets. A100 Service manual, Leslie 251 Owners Manual. An old console connector metal box which I hope to use to make my own kit. I do not have the correct kit which I understand is kit 8253 but I do have the 'Console Connector Kit 8253 Installation Instructions' which includes wiring diagrams. My problem is that because I don't have the kit, I don't know what components if any are inside it and how the internal wiring goes inside the kit box. As the kit is unavailable I am hoping with the expert help on here to be able to make up my own box. Many thanks Robin

I'm having a weird problem. I bought a Booker LBB to use my guitar with my Leslie 122. It works quite nicely. It requires a footswitch to change speeds. So I built one. The standard for the CU-1 Half Moon switches is that you ground either the tip or the ring to select fast/slow. Oddly, to my mind, what you're grounding is 12V. Now, sometimes, but only on occasion, those 12 volts will get passed into the casing of the footswitch and the cable connectors and give you a slight shock. How does the CU-1 handle this? Is the whole mechanism electrically isolated? Or am I missing some essential information about how this is meant to work? Why, for instance, doesn't it always shock me if it's passing 12V to ground no matter which speed is selected? I'm very confused. Thanks for any help you can give.

Greetings - Does anyone know what gauge wiring is/was used in the OEM Hammond Organ cables for Leslie and tone cabinets? Are the voice channels the same gauge as the line voltage? Your input would be greatly appreciated. Stay home and safe, Bob

Hi Guys,ive bought a rough old C3 ,145 and 222rv.(?750) the console has a 428-13 box inside(which is for a 122 series),but theres all sorts of wires loose coming out of it Its only got a speed switch and no MEE. So theres only one box not two in the console. Has anyone on here got any wiring instructions for this. Failing that ,anyone got a NOS 122 fitting kit ? I have got a kit that came off an organ for a 251 ( 012617).Is that wired the same.Of course i havnt got a wiring diagram for that either. Adrian

Greetings - would anyone happen to have a schematic for the series 12 tone cabinet for the X-66 organ? Mainly interested in the connector pin out configurations and tone selector switch. Thanks

There are 2 available a 122 and an 860. Is either one a for either organ?

console, b3 style presets, 4 sets drawbars (2-11, 2-10, and 4pedal), white tabs and power sw, power sw on left, big pedalboard Does anyone know this instrument?

Hello, I have discovered a strange issue with my ca. 1965 D-152. It only pertains to the B pre-set on the lower manual. When I play and hold a note on the 8' drawbar from middle C upward, and then play a note one octave higher, it sounds that tone plus the pitch one octave lower. The issue is unique to this one drawbar. I did check and the lower tone does not sound when the four' drawbar is pulled, only when the corresponding pitch is played on the keyboard. Needless to say, this can lead to some strange, thick chords in the upper register, when the 16' is not desired! I'm hoping that someone can help me determine the source of this problem and suggest a fix. Thank you in advance!

Hi, I recently moved my B3/122 to NC and was pleased when everything worked after a bit of a journey and months in storage. The other night I was about to sit and play, and my foot touched the wire tube to the left of the volume pedal. Sparks flew, B3 wound down and a little acrid smoke and odor filled the air. It took a little time to realize I also tripped the breaker. Being a new house, it appears the trip time was about instant. Anyway, I kept calm and decided to go on to other issues. When I get back to it I am trying to decide course of action. If anyone has some comments or experience with something like this, any feedback welcome. Here are my options: 0) Inspect area where wires potentially shorted to chassis and repair as necessary / 1) turn it on what the hell, go for broke / Experience says it would not be wise 2) Get a variac and bring up the Hammond like one would with a tube amp or radio of that vintage / Closer however have no idea if that would be a problem for the synchronous motors 3) Unsolder connectors, pull the amp and inspect, recap as long as I am in there / Hoping that was not going to be the option 4) Send the amp out and get it fixed / Buy replacement / Not great alternative either. And of course, the above does indicate I may be jumping the gun, since there are other areas that coud be affected and that is why I figured I would ask. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Regards, John

Hi, Since a few weeks I think something is missing in the upper manual second Drawbar. The sound seems werker. I just listened to some YouTube videos. First drawbar should be 16'. Second should be 5 1/3'. Does that mean when I press a C I should hear the G above that C? I think I hear that G one octave higher which means a lesser fat tone when I open the first 4 drawbars. Is a wire loose at the back? How ever do I get that wire back in the right place? Every drawbar works, top and second manual. It's only the second from the top manual that sounds week. Any suggestions? (yes I oiled the organ some weeks ago). Thanks for thinking. Ali

Greetings - rather then bombard the group with messages of which most will have no interest, I would like anyone who could help me with an X-66 help me outside the group normal communication system. If you wanna help, email me at "BobGuttman@..." directly. Mega Thanks

Hello all, Let me start by saying that I am not a musician and know very little about Hammonds! We have a tatty Hammond sitting in our garage and it's time for it to go. If necessary, I'll take a chainsaw to it, but first I wanted to ask if there is any interest in it for either parts or renovation. I have no idea what model it is or its age. I inherited it from a friend many years ago and my son, who is a keen musician, played it for a while, but it is large and heavy and it just does not fit in with his life any more! To the best of my knowledge it is complete and it was working when it was moved to the garage. When we inherited it, there were several broken components and a large number of plugs, switches and edge connectors that were dirty and not making contact - I'm an electronic engineer and we worked through it, replacing the broken bits and cleaning up the rest to the point where it worked. That was quite a few years ago and it has not been stored in ideal conditions for the last several years, so it must be assumed that it is not currently working! This is a heavy item - as I'm sure you are well aware! It is located in Hertfordshire (UK) and I cannot offer delivery. If anyone is interested, they are very welcome to it... If there are no takers within the next few weeks, I will regretfully have to chop it up and cart off to the local dump.... Martin