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In article <9ca397+4gdt@...>, scalaqna@... writes

I was told that a recap of the TG would brighten the highs and mids
considerably. You mentioned something about falling into "black
holes" when recapping the TG. I was just wondering what you meant by
that... I don't think I am so much intimidated about rebuilding,
just as long as I know what I am getting into.. I would just like to
replace those old wax caps with something that will last... Plus the
Amplifier (if It's worth it) I would like to rebuild.

Take it from me (someone who fitted the Goff TWG cap kit). Leave well alone!!!! I fitted the kit to my '62 C3 a few years ago and regretted it. The sound became very bright and "brittle" sounding so that the classic 888000000 sound ended up sounding like 686000000. It took 3 attempts at recalibrating the generator (not for the faint hearted, very tedious and also possibly dangerous as you can damage the fine wires going to the pick up coils) before I was happy with the sound. The final recalibration was done after measuring all the outputs on a friend's C3 with a great sound (the voltages were not the same as in the C3 manual either). This subject has been beaten to death on the Hamtech list over the years.

Right now
there is not a lick of hum, or crackle or anything... The signal is
quite clean.... Probably better that I expected it to be... This
leads me to believe that it may be better left untouched. The big
electrolytic caps are hard to find aren't they?

They (can caps) are available from some place in Mexico I think, but apparently the quality is poor. It is much simpler to leave the cans in place and just fit some modern electrolytics to the same value or higher inside the preamp


--
David Bentley

Hi Peter, and other gurus (a Hammond guru would possible be a Huru)

My M101 has had a hum for some time and although I replaced the large
electrolytics and the rectifier bottle (sorry tube) I still cant get rid of
it .. With a great deal of care <ouch> I have measured the output from the
cathode of the rectifier and I suspect I have a heater to cathode leakage.
Not having a clue how to check that I wondered if it was worth (or even
dangerous) to use a bridge instead of the old bottle rectifier. I know there
are surge problems with this mod but I know of several older beasts that had
this mod done. I have having difficuly getting hold of good quality valves
and the last replacement I tried in it started to spark over on power up.

Any advise would be of help.

Gren

Dear Peter,

I have enjoyed the dialogue you are having with scalaqna.
I have a very special attraction for those M3 Spìnets.
Although I own a A-105 Console, a L111 Spinet and a XB2 Hammond Suzuki, I
still remember my exitement when I played around 1960 a Hammond M3, at a
class mate friend home in Chile. Then I played at a Chilean Radio Station
Theater during 1964 for a while another M3. The first one was mahogany the
second one was light pine. Wonderful instruments. Beautiful cabinetry,
strong parts, reliables.

I bought my Spinet L-111 (like the one used to play Keith Emerson) in 1967.
I liked it of course, but it was not the same stuff. The cabinet was lighter
than the M3, the Tone Generator (TG) not as close to the B3 as the M3, the
Vivrato was awful, no scanner. The percussion not the same as M3/B3s That
was the beginning of the Hammond decline.

As scalaqna, I was always dreaming for a B3. Finally in 1976, when I was
studying at Cambridge (UK), I managed to buy a brand new A-105. Another
mahogany, like a C3, but with internal amplifier. Then We moved to
Guatemala, where I bought a brand new Leslie 122, quite difficult to get by
that time. A perfect combination.

While I was playing the Spinet L-111 at Clubs, between 1967-72, I bought a
second hand Leslie-145 for the Spinet from
a friend that has bought a second hand A-100, and upgraded his leslie to a
122. That bloody spinet changed a lot. With a good Leslie you do not care
for the weak Hammond Vivrato and the second class percussion of spinets.
Never-the-less with a spinet you are forced to get the most only from the
middle part of the keyboard. First of all because there are no low keys and
the high ones lack the whole set of drawbars.

I have told you all this because I am facing hum problems with my A-105. The
Chilean Hammond dealer who happens to be a restore fan of ageing and dying
Hammonds made for me all the minimum changes with regards to vacuum tubes
and capacitors. But I got that bloody hum. I blame the pre-amplifier. I am
decided to buy a Trek Solid State Pre-Amp which it seems to be the way to
solve those hum problems (which I know could come as well from the TG), but
I would gain reverberation as well. But I have a horrible doubt. And here
comes at last my question:

Do you know if the Trek Solid State Pre Amp could change the quality of the
percussion sound?
Or the scanner-vivrato quality?

I would appreciate very much your opinion.

Thanks a lot,

Guillermo
ggha@...

Hey there Brian, et al,

I'll snip a lot out of this, as you and I seem to be the talkers in this
bunch so far, and I don't want to bore the rest to tears. And This one
won't be brief on it's own behalf. Your original post lives. So here
goes...

scalaqna@... wrote:

I still feel that there has been a change in the amount of "highs"
and "mids" that I heard prior to my mishap... Maybe this is my
imagination, but I have a pretty good ear for that kind of stuff...
What type of test equipment should I have available? I do have a
Vacuum Tube tester that works quite well, and the tubes look as
though they were replaced in the last 15 or so years (Sylvania vs.
the Original Hammond Tubes) though I have not tested them as of yet.

If you turn out to be a true fanatic (watch out) I suggest would
suggest a Silly Scope. I have a Tek 465. These are available on ebay in
the <$300 range. I grew up with these things, so I don't even have to
look at it to set things up. If you do persue that line, get some decent
probes, but not necessarily Tek ones. The 6109 probes still sell for
upwards of 300 bucks! find something cheaper, probe wise. If you don't
feel the need for something like that, a digital MM will do just fine.

I was told that a recap of the TG would brighten the highs and mids
considerably. You mentioned something about falling into "black
holes" when recapping the TG.

What I meant by that is that there are quite a few
veteran/professional organ fixers out there who caution doing the TG cap
replacement. When hammond was in business, the caps were matched to the
pickup coils by hand, using a set baseline.

What this means to you and me is this - the pickup coils were wound
to an accepted tolerance. The caps were matched to account for that.
They all were supposedly the same, but they weren't. From Harv Olsen and
other's accounts, you had a barrel fulla .105 caps, and you measured the
Q curve of that cap, and you put it in a bale of other caps that fit the
same criteria. The Q was what determined which caps were matched with
which TG pickup range. Simple.

Next, when the cap/pickups were actually hooked up together, they
would adjust the output level of each pickup coil to a known reference.
All TG's leaving the factory met this spec.

So. What we have is a really old organ, with wax caps. They have
probably drifted all over the place, mostly becoming a lot larger in
value than originally spec'd. So.

Let me throw just one more piece of phlegm into this. Capacitors,
especially ones that have rather small values (.105mf/.225mf) are
usually designed to handle things around 60Hz. The hammond TG depends on
these things to be able to deal with TG freqs approaching 6 KHZ. 100
times larger. Also they are intended for circuits exceeding 600VDC,
where the TG is way lower. Microvolts.

In a nutshell, the only way to deal with this is:

1. Get/find caps that are stable at audio freqs, and either have the
original curves (um, nobody has them) and try to make it sound like it
should by messing with the TG magnets. BTW, the published TG output freq
charts I've seen are way off base. Don't rely on them.

2. Put the caps in, and live with it. So far, for my BC-105 (a '63 A105
guts transplanted into a BC case, with all of the structural mods)
Sounds great. Much better than before the replacement of the Mylars. But
- I rebuilt the preamp before I did the mod.

3. Like I said in the first post, do the preamp first. Most folks I've
talked to say that this is the big cheese. The recap should come after,
in my (and significant others) opinion.

4. If you have Mylar that're purple/red in appearance, (they can be
found in organs from late '63 on), and you can date the organ to '63/64,
Don't Touch'm!!! These organs are godlike in their sound. Walk
slowly to the nearest Church, and thank the lord of your choice. You've
got the best thing hammond ever did. Send me the serial number and
model. You'll thank me for it. ha.

The big
electrolytic caps are hard to find aren't they? Those are probably
what I am most worried about. Does Goff include detailed
instructions with their kits (I hope)?

Nope. The big electrolytics can be readily found at Mouser and
other fine electronic places. What you *can't* do is replace any of the
Can caps that stick out above the chassis. The common technique is to
replace them under the hood, and clip the cans outta the circuit. The
amp still looks normal, but the caps doing the real work are down under.
Tip - make the values bigger in regards to the filter/electro caps. It
never hoits, won't detract from the sound, and gives a little more
reserve if you are doin a lot of Bass playin.

You mentioned that parts are still available for these M-3's... I
would love to replace just the white Upper and Lower Manual Keys,
since for some reason, about 5 of the 8 keys of each octave have
become discolored due to the use of another batch of plastic I
guess. They are almost gray and appear speckled. It would be fine
if they were all like that, but I'd like to clean it up some..

Probably from exposure to the sun. Nobody I know has a remedy for
mottled keys. The M series keys are the same as the B/C keys, after a
certain period. If your M-3 keys have rounded edges on the front, I know
somebody that can get you this type. If they look just like the B-tree
keys, then you can get them in a lot of places. Email me privately.

You know. I did all I could. It's also missing the "music stand" (I
forget the appropriate name for that)... I think it would be a great
project.

Ha! I have the Music Rack for mine, but I'm missing the fold down
bracket for it. At the present time, it props up just nicely. I can scan
dimensions for you, or build one, if need be.

I have also acquired (yesterday) an Hammond B-3 organ that is clean
inside and out (it even has the cloth bag full of screws next to the
preset bars)... Looks like nobody ever touched the thing... The
inside wasn't monkeyed with at all, and it's just cherry. It had a
minimal service done on it not too long ago by the previous owner,
and it started right up and played. As I learn more about it, I will
let the group know.

Howevwer, I am more interested in getting the Spinet up and running
because it is alot simpler an architecture, and it's a great way to
get my hands dirty... I would like to see it perform as new if you
know what I mean.

Working on the M3 is probably the best way to get aquainted with
the Btree, especially if it's in good shape. 98% of what you work on
regarding the M3 will apply to the big guy. Amp/wise, there's more to
it, as the B3 doesn't have one!

Give me some serial numbers, etc. I know some folks that can date
these pups to the day.

PS/Also - what I said about Electrolytics is also a big deal in
leslie's. The amps in the spinny things are power amps, not just
preamps. It is essential for the preservation of these things that you
shotgun the big caps asap. Once again, the original transformers are not
easy to find, and you'll be better off buying seoarate caps for the
replacements.

Here are some specs for you:

1958 Hammond M-3
Form A1 (What does this mean?)

Ha! wish I knew. My '55 says the same.

Serial# - 106921
Amplifier - AO-29-1H (the Service Manual Mentions the "H" Type
Amplifiers where a change was made.. I am assuming that I have this
type of Amplifier)

Also, the Vibrato Line Box looks alot like that of the one used in
the M-100 vs. the M3. Any suggestions as to why that is?

I never had a m100. I'm assuming the VBL is the same.

Once again... Thanks for all of your help. You have been a wealth
of accurate and useful information.

It's been a pleasure. I only Rue the day when the real techs find this
place and rip me to shreds!!

pda
Not a Vendor, not a Retail guy. Just another person that loves this
stuff. Bigtime.

Jax Fl.

Being new to the world of the hammond, I'm not exactly sure which model I've got, but this is what I think it is:

Hammond L (100? Not sure, but it is a spinnet)

Leslie 247 (although rummaging around on the net I found a picture which looked exactly like mine, and had the number 225 or something.....it's the 'furniture' cabinet)

Hammonds are new to me, but I've been playing keys for a while and also have the pleasure of owning a fender rhodes 73 mach II, a korg polysix, and an ARP oddesey.

I am livign in Hobart, Tasmania, Australia.
_________________________________________________________________________
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Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the
hammond_zone group:

What type of Hammond Organ do you own?

o M-3
o M-2
o M
o M-100 series
o B-3
o B-2
o B
o A
o AB
o A-100
o C-3
o C-2
o C
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o T,H or other Series


To vote, please visit the following web page:



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Thanks!

Hi Peter-

I am going to finish what I started writing the other day, this time
hopefully uninterrupted ;)

This is what I wrote the other day, and I'll just pick up where I
left off..

Thank you so much for the prompt and thorough reply. I really do
enjoy my Spinet, and I want to see it work, and I am willing to put
the time and money into the repairs if necessary. Fortunately, I am
less than two hours away from Speakeasy Vintage Music, and I have
spoken to Steve Hayes, and he is great. I am really considering
taking the organ to him at one point, and having him do a once
over... However, I also would like the experience of knowing all
about them, as this will not be the only one I will be owning in my
lifetime.

I recieved the Hammond M-Series Service Manual, and it has been a
great help to me. I now know where everything is, and what to
replace! I then checked the wire on the drawbar (as you stated) and
it certainly was the culprit! I think all Hammond Organs should be
sold with a soldering iron, and rosin-core solder! Thanks again...
I was so flustered from what I thought I might have done that I
didn't check one of the most obvious things. That's been fixed... I
still feel that there has been a change in the amount of "highs"
and "mids" that I heard prior to my mishap... Maybe this is my
imagination, but I have a pretty good ear for that kind of stuff...
What type of test equipment should I have available? I do have a
Vacuum Tube tester that works quite well, and the tubes look as
though they were replaced in the last 15 or so years (Sylvania vs.
the Original Hammond Tubes) though I have not tested them as of yet.
I was told that a recap of the TG would brighten the highs and mids
considerably. You mentioned something about falling into "black
holes" when recapping the TG. I was just wondering what you meant by
that... I don't think I am so much intimidated about rebuilding,
just as long as I know what I am getting into.. I would just like to
replace those old wax caps with something that will last... Plus the
Amplifier (if It's worth it) I would like to rebuild. Right now
there is not a lick of hum, or crackle or anything... The signal is
quite clean.... Probably better that I expected it to be... This
leads me to believe that it may be better left untouched. The big
electrolytic caps are hard to find aren't they? Those are probably
what I am most worried about. Does Goff include detailed
instructions with their kits (I hope)?

You mentioned that parts are still available for these M-3's... I
would love to replace just the white Upper and Lower Manual Keys,
since for some reason, about 5 of the 8 keys of each octave have
become discolored due to the use of another batch of plastic I
guess. They are almost gray and appear speckled. It would be fine
if they were all like that, but I'd like to clean it up some.. You
know. I did all I could. It's also missing the "music stand" (I
forget the appropriate name for that)... I think it would be a great
project.

I have also acquired (yesterday) an Hammond B-3 organ that is clean
inside and out (it even has the cloth bag full of screws next to the
preset bars)... Looks like nobody ever touched the thing... The
inside wasn't monkeyed with at all, and it's just cherry. It had a
minimal service done on it not too long ago by the previous owner,
and it started right up and played. As I learn more about it, I will
let the group know.

Howevwer, I am more interested in getting the Spinet up and running
because it is alot simpler an architecture, and it's a great way to
get my hands dirty... I would like to see it perform as new if you
know what I mean.

Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thanks again, Peter.

Here are some specs for you:

1958 Hammond M-3
Form A1 (What does this mean?)
Serial# - 106921
Amplifier - AO-29-1H (the Service Manual Mentions the "H" Type
Amplifiers where a change was made.. I am assuming that I have this
type of Amplifier)

Also, the Vibrato Line Box looks alot like that of the one used in
the M-100 vs. the M3. Any suggestions as to why that is?

Once again... Thanks for all of your help. You have been a wealth
of accurate and useful information.

Best Regards,
Brian



--- In hammond_zone@y..., Peter D Abrams <pabrams@b...> wrote:

Good evening Brian...

scalaqna@y... wrote:

I seem to be the only person here with a spinet. I own a 1958
Hammond M-3 and a Leslie 825. Not a bad little setup for $300.

What

do you know.. A Baby B-3...

Nope. I've got an M-3. Love it. A 1955 that I bought for

parts, but

Unless I Absolutely Have To, I'll never tear this thing apart to

fix the

Consoles. Parts are still available. I'm thinking about a complete
refinish for the case. It's a nice box.

My question is, after pulling a stupid move (possibly a surge of
power to the Tone Generator by shutting it down and turning it

back

on accidentally), I seemed to have blown out an entire Drawbar

(Lower

#7) and it sounds as though now I have to recap the entire thing,

You have a Solid State mind in a Tube world. Listen up.

Short of a 20 megaton bomb going off inside of it, I doubt you

have

hurt the Tone Generator by flipping the power on and off. It's

entirely

mechanical. Blowing out an entire drawbar is also something that

doesn't

happen, there's a wire that comes from the lower manual keyboard
assembly to the back of the drawbar. Have you checked that? It

sounds

more like that wire has become disconnected. It happens all the

time.

since the higher tones are somewhat weaker than prior to my
mishap... Any suggestions as to why that drawbar might have blown
out, and where I can purchase a new capacitor set (and how much

would

it cost)?

If anything happened as a result of the fast flipping of

switches,

it's possible that you may have damaged a capacitor/resistor in the
A0-29 amp. *Not* the caps on the TG itself. The TG caps are filters

to

keep tones from bleeding into each other and never have any

significant

voltages applied to them. Also - have you tried reseating the

tubes?

Goff has cap kits for the TG and the Vibrato Line box, but not

the

amp. www.goffprof.com. When you get the M-3 manual, figure out which
series M-3 amp you have (there are several) and if you feel brave

and

lucky, get the parts, and rebuild the amp. Replace all the caps,

replace

all the resistors. www.mouser.com. The wax caps are way beyond their
design life, and are responsible for most of the "tone" of the
instrument. The electrolytics are very crucial, as they hang off the
power supply, and if they decide to short, they'll possibly take

out the

Power transformer. Dead Horse. Almost impossible to find.

The TG caps would be next, But I would rebuild the preamp, play

it,

and see. TG cap replacement is a big deal to some people, and it

leads

you down a lot of black holes.

I can probably do the work myself. I am kicking myself as
we speak for my slip up... I would like to restore it, and

replace

everything I can, and I know there are kits out there to do this.

Only for the TG and Vib box. Goff used to sell kits for
amps/preamps, but most of the folks who bought them didn't

understand

the art of the rebuild, and screwed it up. They *will* rebuild amps

if

you send them in, but expect to pay more for that than you did for

the

whole rig!

I think the caps would apply to both the M-3 and the B3 since it

is

pretty much the same tone generator. Any help would be great!

Yeah, pretty much. I actually don't know if they sell a kit
specific kit for an M-3, I've got one TG cap rebuilt B-3 here.

Sounds

great. You'll have to call and ask.

If you haven't, you might want to check out the hammond FAQ. A

lot

of good info there, and it might enlighten you a bit as to how all

the

parts fit together.

BTW- I have a M, M2, M3, M100 Service Manual on it's way to me in
the mail, and it should be here any day now. I also know of a

guy in

Dover, PA who manufactures Tube Leslie Pre-Amps, and those very

hard

to come by Transformers...

Steve Hayes. Speakeasy Vintage Music. He has a good reputation, and
apparently has a secret Leslie magnet that he uses to collect them

with.

incredible. I've bought stuff from him. I don't think he makes
replacement power xfmrs for an M-3. The only replacement I know is
another M-3.

One (and only) one word of caution - If you feel the least bit
intimidated about any of this, think about it. $300 bucks for the

rig

you have is an excellent deal, don't let that fool you into

thinking you

shouldn't spend good money to make it work. Nothing is more

deflating

than trying to fix something, and hearing that Pop, seeing that

Flash,

and knowing that you won't be playing your hammond tonight. If it

*does*

happen, just be grateful that the thing didn't electrocute you in

the

process.

Thanks in Advance!
Brian

Regards and best of luck,

pda
Jax Fl.

Hi all

I'm looking for an output transformer for an A100 please.
Does any one know of a source of supply in the UK
I am an engineer in South Wales and I'm having a
problem finding one

ken.churchill@...

Gren and all,

Here's a good description for the fold back procedure:



later,

pda

开云体育

Gren, again,

There's a ton of stuff out there. ya just have to look. For starters,
Rufus has quite a few solos and other hammond organ things on his site,
starting with this one:



Go to the web rings and find some more:



There's a ton of stuff out there.

Have a happy. If we don't see you back here in a few months, then we'll
worry.

pda
Jax Fl.

Yo Gren.

Gren wrote:

Very interesting mail .. so does anyone have knowledge on how
different the M100 tonewheels differ from the B3 ? I know the B3 has
more harmonics than the M100 series but by how much ..?

I have both types. The differences are 2-fold:

1. In the distribution number of working tonewheels. The Consoles have
96 tonewheels, of which 91 actually do something, the other 5 are there
for balance. The M-3 Has the same 96 Tonewheels, but only 86 of them
work. (I'm pulling this from memory) The missing tones on the M series
are on the bottom, if I recall correctly.

2. Wiring - While the M's have the same tonal range of the consoles,
they do not incorporate "foldback" in the upper octaves. On a console,
when you get to that tone #91, they repeat the previous octave. If you
pull out drawbar #9, for example, it gets to the highest note it can do,
and then repeats the last octave until you run out of keys. In the case
of #9, it does this trick for almost 1 1/2 octaves. This is where that
hammond console sound rules, and why.

On a spinet, you run out of tones when you run out of tones. no
foldback. You can modify this to sound just like a console. You'll need
a "foldback kit". You can't really buy them, you have to either tear
another organ apart, or find somebody that has done so, and then the fun
begins. Some of the spinets need extra full-length bussbars to make this
work, some don't. They will all need a pile of contacts and some
involved rewiring of the manuals. It's not an easy mod, but compared to
buying a console, itsa piece'o'duck. It just depends on what you can do,
skill wise.

later,
pda

I would love
an A or B or even C purely because of the larger manuals but wouldn't
it be nice to be able to produce those harmonics on the M100 .. (which
I have) How many more tonewheels does an A,B,C have than an M ?

I love my M and but having played an A100 with its richer feel I must
admit that I am seriously thinking of looking around for an A,B or C
just for the richer sound and fuller harmonics.

Gren

I believe it is just a matter of time before this MP3 idea will happen
as more people get on the net. I know there are some wonderful players
out there but they are a long way from getting material to the net.
There is some older stuff I'm sure that maybe could be loaded for
access.

开云体育

Just a thought here but with so many organists I am amazed with the lack of
music. I wonder if it is not time for someone to start a Hammond MP3 source
.. whether that be a web site or just plain mailing.

Personally I would love to hear some of the beautiful sounds which eminate
from the worlds best organ. By the look of the patronage of this list we do
have a good supply of organists and some great Hammonds .. come on guys ..
what do you think those keyboards are for.

Gren

开云体育

Good evening Brian...

scalaqna@... wrote:

I seem to be the only person here with a spinet. I own a 1958
Hammond M-3 and a Leslie 825. Not a bad little setup for $300. What
do you know.. A Baby B-3...

Nope. I've got an M-3. Love it. A 1955 that I bought for parts, but
Unless I Absolutely Have To, I'll never tear this thing apart to fix the
Consoles. Parts are still available. I'm thinking about a complete
refinish for the case. It's a nice box.

My question is, after pulling a stupid move (possibly a surge of
power to the Tone Generator by shutting it down and turning it back
on accidentally), I seemed to have blown out an entire Drawbar (Lower
#7) and it sounds as though now I have to recap the entire thing,

You have a Solid State mind in a Tube world. Listen up.

Short of a 20 megaton bomb going off inside of it, I doubt you have
hurt the Tone Generator by flipping the power on and off. It's entirely
mechanical. Blowing out an entire drawbar is also something that doesn't
happen, there's a wire that comes from the lower manual keyboard
assembly to the back of the drawbar. Have you checked that? It sounds
more like that wire has become disconnected. It happens all the time.

since the higher tones are somewhat weaker than prior to my
mishap... Any suggestions as to why that drawbar might have blown
out, and where I can purchase a new capacitor set (and how much would
it cost)?

If anything happened as a result of the fast flipping of switches,
it's possible that you may have damaged a capacitor/resistor in the
A0-29 amp. *Not* the caps on the TG itself. The TG caps are filters to
keep tones from bleeding into each other and never have any significant
voltages applied to them. Also - have you tried reseating the tubes?

Goff has cap kits for the TG and the Vibrato Line box, but not the
amp. www.goffprof.com. When you get the M-3 manual, figure out which
series M-3 amp you have (there are several) and if you feel brave and
lucky, get the parts, and rebuild the amp. Replace all the caps, replace
all the resistors. www.mouser.com. The wax caps are way beyond their
design life, and are responsible for most of the "tone" of the
instrument. The electrolytics are very crucial, as they hang off the
power supply, and if they decide to short, they'll possibly take out the
Power transformer. Dead Horse. Almost impossible to find.

The TG caps would be next, But I would rebuild the preamp, play it,
and see. TG cap replacement is a big deal to some people, and it leads
you down a lot of black holes.

I can probably do the work myself. I am kicking myself as
we speak for my slip up... I would like to restore it, and replace
everything I can, and I know there are kits out there to do this.

Only for the TG and Vib box. Goff used to sell kits for
amps/preamps, but most of the folks who bought them didn't understand
the art of the rebuild, and screwed it up. They *will* rebuild amps if
you send them in, but expect to pay more for that than you did for the
whole rig!

I think the caps would apply to both the M-3 and the B3 since it is
pretty much the same tone generator. Any help would be great!

Yeah, pretty much. I actually don't know if they sell a kit
specific kit for an M-3, I've got one TG cap rebuilt B-3 here. Sounds
great. You'll have to call and ask.

If you haven't, you might want to check out the hammond FAQ. A lot
of good info there, and it might enlighten you a bit as to how all the
parts fit together.

BTW- I have a M, M2, M3, M100 Service Manual on it's way to me in
the mail, and it should be here any day now. I also know of a guy in
Dover, PA who manufactures Tube Leslie Pre-Amps, and those very hard
to come by Transformers...

Steve Hayes. Speakeasy Vintage Music. He has a good reputation, and
apparently has a secret Leslie magnet that he uses to collect them with.
incredible. I've bought stuff from him. I don't think he makes
replacement power xfmrs for an M-3. The only replacement I know is
another M-3.

One (and only) one word of caution - If you feel the least bit
intimidated about any of this, think about it. $300 bucks for the rig
you have is an excellent deal, don't let that fool you into thinking you
shouldn't spend good money to make it work. Nothing is more deflating
than trying to fix something, and hearing that Pop, seeing that Flash,
and knowing that you won't be playing your hammond tonight. If it *does*
happen, just be grateful that the thing didn't electrocute you in the
process.

Thanks in Advance!
Brian

Regards and best of luck,

pda
Jax Fl.

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I seem to be the only person here with a spinet. I own a 1958
Hammond M-3 and a Leslie 825. Not a bad little setup for $300. What
do you know.. A Baby B-3...

My question is, after pulling a stupid move (possibly a surge of
power to the Tone Generator by shutting it down and turning it back
on accidentally), I seemed to have blown out an entire Drawbar (Lower
#7) and it sounds as though now I have to recap the entire thing,
since the higher tones are somewhat weaker than prior to my
mishap... Any suggestions as to why that drawbar might have blown
out, and where I can purchase a new capacitor set (and how much would
it cost)? I can probably do the work myself. I am kicking myself as
we speak for my slip up... I would like to restore it, and replace
everything I can, and I know there are kits out there to do this. I
think the caps would apply to both the M-3 and the B3 since it is
pretty much the same tone generator. Any help would be great!

BTW- I have a M, M2, M3, M100 Service Manual on it's way to me in
the mail, and it should be here any day now. I also know of a guy in
Dover, PA who manufactures Tube Leslie Pre-Amps, and those very hard
to come by Transformers...

Thanks in Advance!
Brian