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Thanks Greg. I’m nowhere as talented as you in understanding the options. I do have a spare backup camera kit…hmmm. My other concern is that I’m using the CAT connection for the Z817 LDG tuner.

I've not used that particular product, but I don't think there's much more to know about it. Connect it to the radio and get the two to talking. The device just loops through fetching the

Hi, my non ND 817 display is fine, but 2 color backlighting isn’t very helpful in low light. I see a $42.88 external CAT display device, 12864 on Ali Express, but very little info. I’m not skilled

Hi Robin, Thanks for the response. Yes, I was trying to follow the alignment procedure from the service manual as far as I could.? I have a number of manuals but I'm using the one which covers all

David, 1) Do you have a copy of the *service manual*? That's pretty much *essential* for what you are trying to do. 2) Given that the PLL, as noted below, seems to lock with the original front

I have just replaced the front panel PCB on a friends FT817ND (Lot82). I had called Yaesu UK and the told me that the board was compatible (CS1909409). It was a straightforward replacement except for

Update - With the main PCB completely removed from the radio chassis and a jumper installed across Q1082, I was able to see good 9v, 6v, and 5v lines. ?From there, I installed the front panel unit

Providing the Watson 13V at 3A, and 5A peak, power supply is a linear one with a black case and two screw trerminals on the front panel, then it SHOULD be the same as I have to run my FT-817 or other

I know this is kinda a long shot here, but Bill W1PA, were you able to solve the problem with your radio?? I have one here with the exact same problem as yours. Plugging in the power results in a

Pictures, please. Very interested. -- Robin Kidd W4IEN w4ien@...

Nice clean FT-817 (non D) FOR SALE Includes: * Ft-817. (Non D) * New Final Amplifier board with new factory installed final transistors * bhi NEDSP106 DSP super clean noise reduction * Narrow CW

I only adjust the finals. Will check driver bias also. As metioned before: it is FT817 frame with complete new FT818 interioer. There might be a lot to adjust also... cheers Ray Am 21.11.2024 um 02:46

John, are you adjusting bias for driver and finals, or just the finals? If it's just the finals, you'd normally set the second pot for twice the current, or 84mA.? I realize it's a small difference,

hi Ken after replacing every board in my old FT-817 by brand new ft-818 boards (see in this group) I could set current to the FINAL UNIT as mentioned. BUT no power out at all. Carrier is ok...

Gavin, thanks for posting this on your experience with the battery pack issue and destruction of the finals, I have never used a battery pack in my 2001 ft817 and it still has the original finals

Per the OP (!) the MRW-HF100s are base loaded whips not dissimilar to the majority of garden variety CB radio whip (and I have to slot Elecraft's spendy examples in the same category.) In resonating

A lot thanks, Al. It solved for me: I switched a dozen of times between 6m (rear antenna) and 2m (front antenna) and it solved. I hope forever, but I'm not confident; however I know what I have to

Yes, though if you are in a very wet location one earth spike might do. Only radials that are in air, above the ground, can be resonant.

Assuming mast or skyscraper grade lightning conductor. Most of us don't have that, so one or several earths is moot.

Antenna ground or counterpoise isn't the same than house ground/earth neither serves the same purpose. A counterpoise (grounded or not) is used to avoid returning RF towards the rig via balancing