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I have just replaced the front panel PCB on a friends FT817ND (Lot82). I had called Yaesu UK and the told me that the board was compatible (CS1909409). It was a straightforward replacement except for

Update - With the main PCB completely removed from the radio chassis and a jumper installed across Q1082, I was able to see good 9v, 6v, and 5v lines. ?From there, I installed the front panel unit

Providing the Watson 13V at 3A, and 5A peak, power supply is a linear one with a black case and two screw trerminals on the front panel, then it SHOULD be the same as I have to run my FT-817 or other

I know this is kinda a long shot here, but Bill W1PA, were you able to solve the problem with your radio?? I have one here with the exact same problem as yours. Plugging in the power results in a

Pictures, please. Very interested. -- Robin Kidd W4IEN w4ien@...

Nice clean FT-817 (non D) FOR SALE Includes: * Ft-817. (Non D) * New Final Amplifier board with new factory installed final transistors * bhi NEDSP106 DSP super clean noise reduction * Narrow CW

I only adjust the finals. Will check driver bias also. As metioned before: it is FT817 frame with complete new FT818 interioer. There might be a lot to adjust also... cheers Ray Am 21.11.2024 um 02:46

John, are you adjusting bias for driver and finals, or just the finals? If it's just the finals, you'd normally set the second pot for twice the current, or 84mA.? I realize it's a small difference,

hi Ken after replacing every board in my old FT-817 by brand new ft-818 boards (see in this group) I could set current to the FINAL UNIT as mentioned. BUT no power out at all. Carrier is ok...

Gavin, thanks for posting this on your experience with the battery pack issue and destruction of the finals, I have never used a battery pack in my 2001 ft817 and it still has the original finals

Per the OP (!) the MRW-HF100s are base loaded whips not dissimilar to the majority of garden variety CB radio whip (and I have to slot Elecraft's spendy examples in the same category.) In resonating

A lot thanks, Al. It solved for me: I switched a dozen of times between 6m (rear antenna) and 2m (front antenna) and it solved. I hope forever, but I'm not confident; however I know what I have to

Yes, though if you are in a very wet location one earth spike might do. Only radials that are in air, above the ground, can be resonant.

Assuming mast or skyscraper grade lightning conductor. Most of us don't have that, so one or several earths is moot.

Antenna ground or counterpoise isn't the same than house ground/earth neither serves the same purpose. A counterpoise (grounded or not) is used to avoid returning RF towards the rig via balancing

I have to jump in here...The US is single phase power to the house.? The transformer that makes the transition from high voltage to 220 volts is only connected to one phase if three phase power is

I was chief engineer at a TV station in USA. Everything was bonded to a single point ground. Inside the building we used 6" flat copper strap. We took many strikes to the 2000' tower, but never had an

Here's what I have come to know about lightning. The trick with lightning is less about ground and more about making sure that the lightning's energy is routed past (not through) you and

A single "ground" makes little or no difference. You need all aerials and power cables, Cable TV, phone cables disconnected. A strike even 100m from the utility cables (even buried electricity, phone,

Glenn, Quite simple, disconnect your radio and other equipment completely during thunderstorms. I learned my lesson many years ago when I got hit by lightning which took out my TS-430s, computer,