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now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it.
so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.
so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop) instead of 0 toe out?
what would i be missing if i do that?
David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....
imran
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Tape on the end of the fence if your that anal , wouldn’t ?worry about slider toe out. I am ready for a bashing on this recommendation...??
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 9:27 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it.
so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.
so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop) ?instead of 0 toe out?
what would i be missing if i do that?
David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....
imran
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I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
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-------- Original message -------- From: "imranindiana via groups.io" <imranindiana@...> Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
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Or a piece of thick paper between the back of the aluminium fence where it tightens up against fence casting......
Jonathan
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
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John,
i remembered and mentioned a narrow piece along the fence as an option but must be from Duluth, no pinch no stink ?
imran
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 10:12 AM, "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote: ?
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- From: "imranindiana via groups.io" <imranindiana@...> Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
<20160819_114118_resized.jpg>
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my question was really to folks who use the tape or another method to have 0 toe-out on rip and asking them if they use it for any other purpose than bump out. if there is no other use then i might as well make it parallel to slider.
imran
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 11:06 AM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? John,
i remembered and mentioned a narrow piece along the fence as an option but must be from Duluth, no pinch no stink ?
imran
On Sep 24, 2020, at 10:12 AM, "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote:
?
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- From: "imranindiana via groups.io" <imranindiana@...> Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
<20160819_114118_resized.jpg>
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1. Its easier to leave rip fence unmodified so you know it is consistent.
2. Pick a spot on the slider travel you always index. I choose to slide mine all the way back until it hits the travel stop, then move stock across slider toward the rip fence until it makes contact.
3. Verify test cut is indeed what you want.if not, adjust rip fence width accordingly and verify it is now correct.
4. Wider stock will contact rip fence further back than narrow stock using this method because the rip fence toe out means the back corner of the stock will contact the rip fence, not the front. So adding John Kee's magswitch point block he showed in prior message will ensure consistency at that same bump stop point regardless of the stock width.
5. Don't worry about it anymore, you've mastered this task now.
Or a piece of thick paper between the back of the aluminium fence where it tightens up against fence casting......
Jonathan
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
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Brett, Thanks for the details. John K method does not eliminate the bind it just reduces the friction by reducing the contact area. as the slider is moves fwd over 8’ the material will still get 0.016” closer (based on .002”/ft slider toe out).?
John, do you use it for xcut or long 8’ rips? to me binding of 16 thou is still putting pressure that could be avoided. if it works on long rips, i will make one and try it before anything else.
imran
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 11:12 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? 1. Its easier to leave rip fence unmodified so you know it is consistent.
2. Pick a spot on the slider travel you always index. I choose to slide mine all the way back until it hits the travel stop, then move stock across slider toward the rip fence until it makes contact.
3. Verify test cut is indeed what you want.if not, adjust rip fence width accordingly and verify it is now correct.
4. Wider stock will contact rip fence further back than narrow stock using this method because the rip fence toe out means the back corner of the stock will contact the rip fence, not the front. So adding John Kee's magswitch point block he showed in prior message will ensure consistency at that same bump stop point regardless of the stock width.
5. Don't worry about it anymore, you've mastered this task now. Or a piece of thick paper between the back of the aluminium fence where it tightens up against fence casting......
Jonathan
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
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You are way over thinking it, have you even tried using the rip fence with it in the pulled back position? It’s been done for melania without any extra gadgets...
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 11:49 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Brett, Thanks for the details. John K method does not eliminate the bind it just reduces the friction by reducing the contact area. as the slider is moves fwd over 8’ the material will still get 0.016” closer (based on .002”/ft slider toe out).?
John, do you use it for xcut or long 8’ rips? to me binding of 16 thou is still putting pressure that could be avoided. if it works on long rips, i will make one and try it before anything else.
imran
On Sep 24, 2020, at 11:12 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? 1. Its easier to leave rip fence unmodified so you know it is consistent.
2. Pick a spot on the slider travel you always index. I choose to slide mine all the way back until it hits the travel stop, then move stock across slider toward the rip fence until it makes contact.
3. Verify test cut is indeed what you want.if not, adjust rip fence width accordingly and verify it is now correct.
4. Wider stock will contact rip fence further back than narrow stock using this method because the rip fence toe out means the back corner of the stock will contact the rip fence, not the front. So adding John Kee's magswitch point block he showed in prior message will ensure consistency at that same bump stop point regardless of the stock width.
5. Don't worry about it anymore, you've mastered this task now. Or a piece of thick paper between the back of the aluminium fence where it tightens up against fence casting......
Jonathan
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
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That’s how I do it Mark... Kiss Bill Belanger?
You are way over thinking it, have you even tried using the rip fence with it in the pulled back position? It’s been done for melania without any extra gadgets... On Sep 24, 2020, at 11:49 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett, Thanks for the details. John K method does not eliminate the bind it just reduces the friction by reducing the contact area. as the slider is moves fwd over 8’ the material will still get 0.016” closer (based on .002”/ft slider toe out).?
John, do you use it for xcut or long 8’ rips? to me binding of 16 thou is still putting pressure that could be avoided. if it works on long rips, i will make one and try it before anything else.
imran ? 1. Its easier to leave rip fence unmodified so you know it is consistent.
2. Pick a spot on the slider travel you always index. I choose to slide mine all the way back until it hits the travel stop, then move stock across slider toward the rip fence until it makes contact.
3. Verify test cut is indeed what you want.if not, adjust rip fence width accordingly and verify it is now correct.
4. Wider stock will contact rip fence further back than narrow stock using this method because the rip fence toe out means the back corner of the stock will contact the rip fence, not the front. So adding John Kee's magswitch point block he showed in prior message will ensure consistency at that same bump stop point regardless of the stock width.
5. Don't worry about it anymore, you've mastered this task now. Or a piece of thick paper between the back of the aluminium fence where it tightens up against fence casting......
Jonathan
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
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Imran,
With regard to toe-out and bump stops, the only issue is the slider's relationship to the rip fence.
?If you free-rip a board clamped on the slider it damn well better come out perfectly jointed straight and parallel to the slider fence or your saw is out of adjustment. If you go to the other side of the blade and slide rip along the rip fence, it damn well better be straight and parallel to the rip fence or your rip fence is out of adjustment. Each side of the blade are used for different functions, which is why to toe out is engineered in each side, and why when you reference the right side of the blade but use it from the left, we are having this discussion today.
?With that regard, the toe out is desirable to me because it keeps getting wider the further the slider pushes through stock, preventing the binding you discuss. Try a skinny board, then try a fat one - you'll see super fast the difference.
On Thu, Sep 24, 2020, 12:09 PM Bill Bélanger < Bllblngr@...> wrote: That’s how I do it Mark... Kiss Bill Belanger? You are way over thinking it, have you even tried using the rip fence with it in the pulled back position? It’s been done for melania without any extra gadgets... On Sep 24, 2020, at 11:49 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett, Thanks for the details. John K method does not eliminate the bind it just reduces the friction by reducing the contact area. as the slider is moves fwd over 8’ the material will still get 0.016” closer (based on .002”/ft slider toe out).?
John, do you use it for xcut or long 8’ rips? to me binding of 16 thou is still putting pressure that could be avoided. if it works on long rips, i will make one and try it before anything else.
imran ? 1. Its easier to leave rip fence unmodified so you know it is consistent.
2. Pick a spot on the slider travel you always index. I choose to slide mine all the way back until it hits the travel stop, then move stock across slider toward the rip fence until it makes contact.
3. Verify test cut is indeed what you want.if not, adjust rip fence width accordingly and verify it is now correct.
4. Wider stock will contact rip fence further back than narrow stock using this method because the rip fence toe out means the back corner of the stock will contact the rip fence, not the front. So adding John Kee's magswitch point block he showed in prior message will ensure consistency at that same bump stop point regardless of the stock width.
5. Don't worry about it anymore, you've mastered this task now. Or a piece of thick paper between the back of the aluminium fence where it tightens up against fence casting......
Jonathan
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
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Set your fence to rip dimension with fence before the blade And cut that’s how it’s done. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 9:12 AM, jmkserv@... wrote:
?
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- From: "imranindiana via groups.io" <imranindiana@...> Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
<20160819_114118_resized.jpg>
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Always touch off in same place and all will be the same each time there should be little of no toe out for proper seating? Designing and building for 50 years
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 10:06 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? John,
i remembered and mentioned a narrow piece along the fence as an option but must be from Duluth, no pinch no stink ?
imran
On Sep 24, 2020, at 10:12 AM, "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote:
?
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- From: "imranindiana via groups.io" <imranindiana@...> Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
<20160819_114118_resized.jpg>
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Or put 5 color coded tapes on and a ledger on the wall? Designing and building for 50 years
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 12:23 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via groups.io <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
? Set your fence to rip dimension with fence before the blade And cut that’s how it’s done. Designing and building for 50 years On Sep 24, 2020, at 9:12 AM, jmkserv@... wrote:
?
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- From: "imranindiana via groups.io" <imranindiana@...> Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
<20160819_114118_resized.jpg>
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I don't get binding at all and great cuts that are consistent width with any length?of material. Both the slider?and rip fence are toed out according to spec. The bump stop being 2 1/2" wide makes it easy to grab the offcut without jamming into the blade. As with any method if it works for you great, if not figure out or try something?different. You will know your method works by cutting a piece of melamine with scoring running, if you get a flawless cut on both the pieces everything's is setup properly
On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 11:49 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brett, Thanks for the details. John K method does not eliminate the bind it just reduces the friction by reducing the contact area. as the slider is moves fwd over 8’ the material will still get 0.016” closer (based on .002”/ft slider toe out).?
John, do you use it for xcut or long 8’ rips? to me binding of 16 thou is still putting pressure that could be avoided. if it works on long rips, i will make one and try it before anything else.
imran ? 1. Its easier to leave rip fence unmodified so you know it is consistent.
2. Pick a spot on the slider travel you always index. I choose to slide mine all the way back until it hits the travel stop, then move stock across slider toward the rip fence until it makes contact.
3. Verify test cut is indeed what you want.if not, adjust rip fence width accordingly and verify it is now correct.
4. Wider stock will contact rip fence further back than narrow stock using this method because the rip fence toe out means the back corner of the stock will contact the rip fence, not the front. So adding John Kee's magswitch point block he showed in prior message will ensure consistency at that same bump stop point regardless of the stock width.
5. Don't worry about it anymore, you've mastered this task now. Or a piece of thick paper between the back of the aluminium fence where it tightens up against fence casting......
Jonathan
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: [FOG] working bump stop
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it. so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with. so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out? what would i be missing if i do that? David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time .... imran
|
Use a 123 block.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 6:23 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it.
so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.
so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop) instead of 0 toe out?
what would i be missing if i do that?
David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....
imran
|
I generally have the rip fence set to that the far end is even with the far end of the blade. But when in that position, the close end of the rip fence contacts the sheet goods on the slide. I just realized today from this thread that the easiest solution is to have the rip fence slid as far away from me as possible and then the place where it contacts the sheet goods on the slider will be right at the measuring scale for the rip fence.
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Brian Lamb Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2020 12:17 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] working bump stop Use a 123 block. Brian Lamb blamb11@... www.lambtoolworks.com On Sep 24, 2020, at 6:23 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it.
so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.
so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop) instead of 0 toe out?
what would i be missing if i do that?
David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....
imran
|
?Joe,
i tried that but you still have to address the slider toe out. it is only 16 thou over 8’ if the slider is set to 2 thou over 12”.
Mark,
Yes i tried, that is why i brought it up. i was ripping 1/8” thick sheet of ply with 4’ side referenced to the long xcut fence. i was trying to get 10” wide piece on the right side of blade. i likely have to do more of these and will take pics and try John K solution.
imran
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 6:32 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote: ?I generally have the rip fence set to that the far end is even with the far end of the blade. But when in that position, the close end of the rip fence contacts the sheet goods on the slide. I just realized today from this thread that the easiest solution is to have the rip fence slid as far away from me as possible and then the place where it contacts the sheet goods on the slider will be right at the measuring scale for the rip fence. -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Brian Lamb Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2020 12:17 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] working bump stop Use a 123 block. Brian Lamb blamb11@... www.lambtoolworks.com On Sep 24, 2020, at 6:23 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it.
so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.
so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop) instead of 0 toe out?
what would i be missing if i do that?
David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....
imran
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You don’t have to address any slider toe out, the crosscut fence is set to cut square, the part will come out parallel/square as the point that contacts the blade stays the same, what happens after the cut is kind of immaterial.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 3:51 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Joe,
i tried that but you still have to address the slider toe out. it is only 16 thou over 8’ if the slider is set to 2 thou over 12”.
Mark,
Yes i tried, that is why i brought it up. i was ripping 1/8” thick sheet of ply with 4’ side referenced to the long xcut fence. i was trying to get 10” wide piece on the right side of blade. i likely have to do more of these and will take pics and try John K solution.
imran
On Sep 24, 2020, at 6:32 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?I generally have the rip fence set to that the far end is even with the far end of the blade. But when in that position, the close end of the rip fence contacts the sheet goods on the slide. I just realized today from this thread that the easiest solution is to have the rip fence slid as far away from me as possible and then the place where it contacts the sheet goods on the slider will be right at the measuring scale for the rip fence.
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Brian Lamb
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2020 12:17 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] working bump stop
Use a 123 block.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Sep 24, 2020, at 6:23 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it.
so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.
so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop) instead of 0 toe out?
what would i be missing if i do that?
David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....
imran
|
Brian,
i have no issues with the cut on either rip of slider. even though the xcut is set to 90 deg, the slider trajectory has a 2 thou toe-out that i set myself. rip is set to 2 thou as well. so both rip and slider are closer together the farther you move back from front of the machine.
imran
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On Sep 24, 2020, at 6:57 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ?You don’t have to address any slider toe out, the crosscut fence is set to cut square, the part will come out parallel/square as the point that contacts the blade stays the same, what happens after the cut is kind of immaterial. Brian Lamb blamb11@... www.lambtoolworks.com On Sep 24, 2020, at 3:51 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Joe,
i tried that but you still have to address the slider toe out. it is only 16 thou over 8’ if the slider is set to 2 thou over 12”.
Mark,
Yes i tried, that is why i brought it up. i was ripping 1/8” thick sheet of ply with 4’ side referenced to the long xcut fence. i was trying to get 10” wide piece on the right side of blade. i likely have to do more of these and will take pics and try John K solution.
imran
On Sep 24, 2020, at 6:32 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?I generally have the rip fence set to that the far end is even with the far end of the blade. But when in that position, the close end of the rip fence contacts the sheet goods on the slide. I just realized today from this thread that the easiest solution is to have the rip fence slid as far away from me as possible and then the place where it contacts the sheet goods on the slider will be right at the measuring scale for the rip fence.
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Brian Lamb
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2020 12:17 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] working bump stop
Use a 123 block.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Sep 24, 2020, at 6:23 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1” vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don’t like it.
so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.
so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop) instead of 0 toe out?
what would i be missing if i do that?
David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....
imran
|
imran
Bill Belanger
Joe Jensen