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Attached is a direct screenshot from Felder's website on the KF700 saw-shaper.? I know I have seen "K1 Powerdrive" in other places as well:  -Aaron
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Imran,
My experience was the same as Dan’s - no issue hitting target height first try. ? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 7:33?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? David,
I found a few minutes to add more. I have the 2speed sw you describe but no DRO. I have added the DRO now. Were you able to crawl slow enough to stop the saw blade let’s say at 0.500 inch, repeatedly? I cannot even come close.
My machine uses 30VDC for fast speed and 10VDC at slow speed. It is too fast even on the slow speed to stop at an exact number. There is no white push button to bump by 0.005” like in my Dual51 powerdrive.
Imran Malik
On Jan 18, 2024, at 9:59?AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? Imran,
I am not clear on what you mean by “K1 powerdrive”. ?When I purchased my K975, there were two motorized arbor-positioning options: PowerDrive and DigiDrive. ?You are the first person I’ve heard talk about a K1 and a K2 type of power drive system on that machine. ?
The PowerDrive on my K975 had a momentary switch, spring loaded to the center off position, with two positions in each twisting direction: high and low speed movement in the up or down (anti-clockwise, and clockwise) with the turn of the switch. Granted, the low-speed position was a slight turn of the switch, requiring a sensitive hand movement so as not to overshoot to the high speed position. The system also included a DRO that displayed the height of the blade accurately if it was properly calibrated.?
So I’m not clear on whether you have a defective switch that is hampering your ability to precisely position the saw arbor, or have implemented some Frankenstein type power drive system that is unique to your machine. The terms K1 and K2 are normally used to refer to relays inside the electrical cabinet rather than an option for the PowerDrive system.? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 18, 2024, at 6:03?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Dan,
“I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..”
Not sure what you are saying. I agree, with powerdrive there is no issue to set height. Works fine on my Dual 51. My comment was regarding K1 powerdrive on my used K975. Aaron thought that would be a desirable build feature (presumably from cost standpoint) but I was warning him that it is impossible to set the blade to an exact height without full powerdrive. With K1 all I have is a 2-speed up and down switch. There is no way to hit a desirable blade height.
If a manufacturer just added DROs (not expensive compared to motorized motion) to the crank raise and tilt, I think many would be happy and not pay for the full powerdrive.
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:12?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? I have k2 power drive on my saw (long story on how I acquired a slider with k2 power drive controls and it didn’t cost me a dime extra) and can’t imagine having to crank a handle around all the time. I have not experienced the same frustrations that Imran has with his saw, just need to develop a feel for the switches that control the height..? On Jan 18, 2024, at 12:52 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Imran - good to know.? Maybe the K2 power drive is the only way to go if you are looking at motorized lift/angle.
PK - I wish I had your deep pockets!
-Aaron
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? I’ve seen that also but my comment was specific to the K975 that Imran has. ? David Best - via mobile phone? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 8:07?AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Attached is a direct screenshot from Felder's website on the KF700 saw-shaper.? I know I have seen "K1 Powerdrive" in other places as well: <Felder_K1.JPG> -Aaron
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On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 07:53 AM, Jonathan Smith wrote:
hough there are pros to 3-phase power, there are cons too.? You will find it almost universal in commercial shops but rarely in home shops as it adds the significant cost of the converter, a separate wiring system, possibly noise depending on the type and where? the converter is installed, and the cost to repair or replace if something happens to it.? Single phase motors up to 5 or 7.5-hp are fairly common.? Its common in ag to see 10-hp on irrigation pumps but added cost for 3 phase can be justified on larger motors. Power savings costs won't be measurable on 4-hp intermittent use and you can buy a lot of capacitors for the price of a converter.? Finally, if / when you eventually go to sell your machine, the 3-ph market size will be more limited.
Fair point. Regarding seperate wiring, I am anyway need to run a new electric outlet for the saw, so running from the panel directly to the saw vs running to to phase convertor and from there to the outlet should be almost the same amount of work.
I'll get some quotes and then see
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On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 08:47 AM, <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
Fair point. Regarding seperate wiring, I am anyway need to run a new electric outlet for the saw, so running from the panel directly to the saw vs running to to phase convertor and from there to the outlet should be almost the same amount of work.
I'll get some quotes and then see
I looked into converting to 3-phase in my hobby shop last year and I really wish I could have done it.? Ultimately, it would have been too costly.? I estimated that it would be probably a $15k effort because I wanted everything legit with permits, etc (that's not even factoring in selling my tools and re-buying).? The city inspectors are basically scared to sign off on anything they don't understand, so that means you need a proper electrical engineering design.? Plus the permit fee would have been really expensive because this is a non-standard project for residential electrical.? Add in electricians for install as well.? Other areas may vary so you should consult a reputable electrician with experience in this kind of thing. A 10HP phase perfect unit wants an 80 amp circuit (based on documentation).? This is a LOT to allocate, so make sure your main service panel and house has enough reserve.? The load calc sheets on my house indicate a 144A load before adding in any shop equipment.? I could not have done this with my current 200A service panel.? If you have a 200A panel, I would say that you could do this if you don't have any air conditioning or pool pumps, etc (or even electric car chargers).? Fun fact: many new homes are actually putting in electric water heaters because PG&E wants to discontinue natural gas.? These electric water heaters suck an enormous amount of current. Of course, you can install and wire your own phase converter and electrical.? However, if something happens, insurance companies love to decline claims on this type of stuff. The other part was the noise generated by Phase Perfect.? I did not have the ability to mount it outside in an area that would not impose on my neighbors and having this noise in the shop would be a problem. If you have the area and budget to do 3-phase, it would be a great thing. -Aaron
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As far as I know, powerdrive K2 refers to height and angle control, K1 would be for height only. Here’s a short video showing the operation. The spring loaded switch gets you close to where you want to be, then press the white button to go up in increments off .005” or .1mm if you’re using metric. Same concept applies for the blade angle controls as well. I have my dado stack diameter programmed in as well and it’s as easy as short pressing the reset button to switch between diameters. I think you can program up to 10 diameters but I may be wrong.?
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 11:59 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 08:47 AM, <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
Fair point. Regarding seperate wiring, I am anyway need to run a new electric outlet for the saw, so running from the panel directly to the saw vs running to to phase convertor and from there to the outlet should be almost the same amount of work.
I'll get some quotes and then see
I looked into converting to 3-phase in my hobby shop last year and I really wish I could have done it.? Ultimately, it would have been too costly.? I estimated that it would be probably a $15k effort because I wanted everything legit with permits, etc (that's not even factoring in selling my tools and re-buying).? The city inspectors are basically scared to sign off on anything they don't understand, so that means you need a proper electrical engineering design.? Plus the permit fee would have been really expensive because this is a non-standard project for residential electrical.? Add in electricians for install as well.? Other areas may vary so you should consult a reputable electrician with experience in this kind of thing. A 10HP phase perfect unit wants an 80 amp circuit (based on documentation).? This is a LOT to allocate, so make sure your main service panel and house has enough reserve.? The load calc sheets on my house indicate a 144A load before adding in any shop equipment.? I could not have done this with my current 200A service panel.? If you have a 200A panel, I would say that you could do this if you don't have any air conditioning or pool pumps, etc (or even electric car chargers).? Fun fact: many new homes are actually putting in electric water heaters because PG&E wants to discontinue natural gas.? These electric water heaters suck an enormous amount of current. Of course, you can install and wire your own phase converter and electrical.? However, if something happens, insurance companies love to decline claims on this type of stuff. The other part was the noise generated by Phase Perfect.? I did not have the ability to mount it outside in an area that would not impose on my neighbors and having this noise in the shop would be a problem. If you have the area and budget to do 3-phase, it would be a great thing. -Aaron
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Aaron,
Not sure how to take the deep pockets comment ;-) but this is my only hobby and soon it will, fingers crossed,? drive some income for us too.? We bought the home new and have been here for 21 years.? I am not sure I could afford it now!? Typical CA stuff.? My job has been good to me and my wife allowed for the mega splurge.??
Where I live in So Cal the utility of an ADU is one of the reasons that we did the new shop.? The shop is fully permitted and has a full bath.? I can easily make an ADU with a kitchenette out of it.? If my wife and I ever decide to move from CA, we can rent the main home and the ADU separate and make some great passive income.? Selling it as an ADU would require more hurdles from the city, but not insurmountable.
I feel you on the power situation.? In my 'old shop' I had a 200 amp main panel and had the 10hp PP connected with an 80 amp breaker.? We have gas in our home for heating, cooking and the dryer (not in the shop though - electric water heater).? I would never use the PP while charging a vehicle or cooking in the electric oven which were my largest loads. I never had a situation where I ran out of power.? I needed to have a 400 amp panel upgrade done to my home before I started the new shop.? The shop was going to have an electric tankless water heater that needed two 40 amp 240 volt circuits!? So my main panel has a 400 amp meter socket and two 200 amp main breakers, one of which is connected to the house breakers immediately below one of the 200 amp breakers.? The other 200 amp breaker supplies power to the shop.? I have 57 solar panels and only charge the Vehicles at night to avoid higher energy cost and balance the loads.
In the shop I have a standard 200 amp panel that has the 125 amp breaker for the Phase Perfect PTE015R (15hp version).? The 125 amp breaker feeds the PP with 1/0 copper and the output of the PP supplies a 3 phase Siemens panel via 4 gauge copper (max steady state output of the PTE015R is 52 amps).? The 3 phase panel has seven breakers for the seven machines and there are no shared circuits.?
I am almost finished with the electrical and powered up the Phase Perfect on Monday night.? Worked like a charm.? I have no machines in the shop yet, still need to get the Air lines roughed in and the ceiling drywalled.? It is moving along...
I hope to have a video out this weekend on some progress.
PK
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I probably won't have enough amp in my breaker box for a huge Phase Perfect.
I alreay have a 60A circuit for a car charger.
50A for a range
30A for the AC
30A for electric dryer
?
And the shop itslef needs:
30A for the DC
20A for single phase machinary
?
I might use the same 60A breaker that is used for the car charger and daisy-chain the PhasePerfect 7.5HP
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Hi Dan,
You may not have read earlier msgs. The discussion is about only having the electronic height control and NOT having full powerdrive.
I mentioned earlier, that this is implemented on my saw where I only have?a 2 speed elevation control and no?white button for fine adj. I am familiar with powerdrive it as I do have it on my dual51.
I do not know if what I have is the K1 option of today; If it is, I would not get it. Following is not a sharp pic but K975 control panel is shown in the distance and pointed to by the red arrow. Left most is 2 speed elevation switch, then Green/red main saw control switches followed by green button for scoring saw. Below scoring saw switch is the location for scoring saw elevation switch (not installed on my machine).
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:27?PM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote: ? As far as I know, powerdrive K2 refers to height and angle control, K1 would be for height only. Here’s a short video showing the operation. The spring loaded switch gets you close to where you want to be, then press the white button to go up in increments off .005” or .1mm if you’re using metric. Same concept applies for the blade angle controls as well. I have my dado stack diameter programmed in as well and it’s as easy as short pressing the reset button to switch between diameters. I think you can program up to 10 diameters but I may be wrong.?
On Jan 18, 2024, at 11:59 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 08:47 AM, <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
Fair point. Regarding seperate wiring, I am anyway need to run a new electric outlet for the saw, so running from the panel directly to the saw vs running to to phase convertor and from there to the outlet should be almost the same amount of work.
I'll get some quotes and then see
I looked into converting to 3-phase in my hobby shop last year and I really wish I could have done it.? Ultimately, it would have been too costly.? I estimated that it would be probably a $15k effort because I wanted everything legit with permits, etc (that's not even factoring in selling my tools and re-buying).? The city inspectors are basically scared to sign off on anything they don't understand, so that means you need a proper electrical engineering design.? Plus the permit fee would have been really expensive because this is a non-standard project for residential electrical.? Add in electricians for install as well.? Other areas may vary so you should consult a reputable electrician with experience in this kind of thing. A 10HP phase perfect unit wants an 80 amp circuit (based on documentation).? This is a LOT to allocate, so make sure your main service panel and house has enough reserve.? The load calc sheets on my house indicate a 144A load before adding in any shop equipment.? I could not have done this with my current 200A service panel.? If you have a 200A panel, I would say that you could do this if you don't have any air conditioning or pool pumps, etc (or even electric car chargers).? Fun fact: many new homes are actually putting in electric water heaters because PG&E wants to discontinue natural gas.? These electric water heaters suck an enormous amount of current. Of course, you can install and wire your own phase converter and electrical.? However, if something happens, insurance companies love to decline claims on this type of stuff. The other part was the noise generated by Phase Perfect.? I did not have the ability to mount it outside in an area that would not impose on my neighbors and having this noise in the shop would be a problem. If you have the area and budget to do 3-phase, it would be a great thing. -Aaron
<Video.mov>
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Imran, here is a photo of the control panel on my K975 FYI:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Thanks David. I figured you and Dan jumped later in the conversation and missed the fact that I don’t have powerdrive on K975.
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 4:31?PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ? Imran, here is a photo of the control panel on my K975 FYI:
<K975 Control Panel.jpeg>
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Just FYI, the capacitors are easy to replace and will set you back about $100 every 5 to 10 years if you don’t have the bank (money or available power, lol) to add a phase converter.?
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So apprrently the 3-phase (5.5kW) saw together with a longer bed (3.2m vs 2.8m) and the overhead dust costs less than buying the single phase saw and adding the overhead dust port.
I think I'll go to this route.
Felder also offered me a really resonable trade in value for my K3 (~80% of what I paid) I am not sure I'll be able to get more on the open market, but the hussle of looking for a buyer and the fact that I can simply load my old saw and pick up the new machine on the same day is really appealing.
?
For the configuration I am still debating about the two.
I know I want to add a cross cut fence DRO, still debating between Lamb tool and Felder (Felders is an extra of ~$1600 for single DRO and ~2600 for two)
Power drive (~$1600 extra)
?
I also explore the option of going with the KF instead of the K model.
The addition cost of the shaper is quite hefty and adds ~50% to the price of the saw. It will forced me to go with the power drive and probably add a power feeder.?
I never used a shaper so quite hasistate to invest so much money on that. Especially after hearing a lot of stories how cumbersome the switch between the two modes.
?
The following configuration is avaliable for immidiate pickup and it is really tempting and prevent me from waiting 6-7 months for a custom build.
3 x 230V 7.5HP (5.5kW) motor for main blade
Industrial motor driven scoring blade
Dado prepped
126" X-roll sliding table with remote start/stop on end of slider
49" rip capacity with fine adjustment.
1500 outrigger
102" crosscut fence with flip stop
Overhead saw guard.
?
I am meeting tomorrow with the sales rep to see the saw in person.
Is there anything I should ask him/check when I am there?
?
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Ask him for the form I got from Wurth for a reduced sales tax rate in CA for machinery...
I am amazed that Felder does not offer it...
PK
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That configuration sounds like a winner. ?If the shaper add-on adds that much to the price of the machine, you’d be better off getting a stand alone shaper later. ? Ask Brian to quote you on a DRO setup for your crosscut fence. ?
Do as Paul suggests. ?
You will need a 10HP PP or rotary to dive that motor. ?The 7.5HP PP unit is undersized IMO, but you might call PP and talk with them about it.
Did you talk with Fergus about commissioning the machine? ?That configuration will ship as a kit to be assembled on site. ?Setting up such a large slider is not trivial and requires specialized tools. ?Commissioning can be expensive, so get a quote on that.
Make sure you have the room in your shop for this beast. ?The attached drawings could be helpful to you. ?This is a Kappa 400 xMotion but the same overall dimensions apply to the configuration you are considering.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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For the phase convertor, I'll call tomorrow to Phase Perfect to see if the 7.5HP unit will be enough (I see that the output of American Rotary 10HP and PP 7.5HP are almost identical)
?
We haven't discussed commissioning this machine.
I remember I asked for comissioning the K3 and the price was eye watering, I'll ask him tomorrow what is the price.
What machinary is needed for the assembly?
I watched the machine setup on Felders youtube and it looks managable.
I also have the Fat lifting table as shown on the video to slide the slider to the machine.?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=US_cADCtSBQ
?
For calibration I do have precision level, dial indicators and stright edge?
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My suggested commissioning tool list can be found on my website: ?https://davidpbest.com/publications-and-videos#felder
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 9:40?PM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote:
We haven't discussed commissioning this machine. I remember I asked for comissioning the K3 and the price was eye watering, I'll ask him tomorrow what is the price.
What machinary is needed for the assembly? I watched the machine setup on Felders youtube and it looks managable. I also have the Fat lifting table as shown on the video to slide the slider to the machine.? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=US_cADCtSBQ ?
For calibration I do have precision level, dial indicators and stright edge?
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Todays powerdrive K1 looks like this, so it’s hard to tell how it operates from the photo. Perhaps it’s a dual function button for fast and slow adjustments.?
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On Jan 18, 2024, at 4:20 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Dan,
You may not have read earlier msgs. The discussion is about only having the electronic height control and NOT having full powerdrive.
I mentioned earlier, that this is implemented on my saw where I only have?a 2 speed elevation control and no?white button for fine adj. I am familiar with powerdrive it as I do have it on my dual51.
I do not know if what I have is the K1 option of today; If it is, I would not get it. Following is not a sharp pic but K975 control panel is shown in the distance and pointed to by the red arrow. Left most is 2 speed elevation switch, then Green/red main saw control switches followed by green button for scoring saw. Below scoring saw switch is the location for scoring saw elevation switch (not installed on my machine).
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:27?PM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? As far as I know, powerdrive K2 refers to height and angle control, K1 would be for height only. Here’s a short video showing the operation. The spring loaded switch gets you close to where you want to be, then press the white button to go up in increments off .005” or .1mm if you’re using metric. Same concept applies for the blade angle controls as well. I have my dado stack diameter programmed in as well and it’s as easy as short pressing the reset button to switch between diameters. I think you can program up to 10 diameters but I may be wrong.?
On Jan 18, 2024, at 11:59 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 08:47 AM, <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
Fair point. Regarding seperate wiring, I am anyway need to run a new electric outlet for the saw, so running from the panel directly to the saw vs running to to phase convertor and from there to the outlet should be almost the same amount of work.
I'll get some quotes and then see
I looked into converting to 3-phase in my hobby shop last year and I really wish I could have done it.? Ultimately, it would have been too costly.? I estimated that it would be probably a $15k effort because I wanted everything legit with permits, etc (that's not even factoring in selling my tools and re-buying).? The city inspectors are basically scared to sign off on anything they don't understand, so that means you need a proper electrical engineering design.? Plus the permit fee would have been really expensive because this is a non-standard project for residential electrical.? Add in electricians for install as well.? Other areas may vary so you should consult a reputable electrician with experience in this kind of thing. A 10HP phase perfect unit wants an 80 amp circuit (based on documentation).? This is a LOT to allocate, so make sure your main service panel and house has enough reserve.? The load calc sheets on my house indicate a 144A load before adding in any shop equipment.? I could not have done this with my current 200A service panel.? If you have a 200A panel, I would say that you could do this if you don't have any air conditioning or pool pumps, etc (or even electric car chargers).? Fun fact: many new homes are actually putting in electric water heaters because PG&E wants to discontinue natural gas.? These electric water heaters suck an enormous amount of current. Of course, you can install and wire your own phase converter and electrical.? However, if something happens, insurance companies love to decline claims on this type of stuff. The other part was the noise generated by Phase Perfect.? I did not have the ability to mount it outside in an area that would not impose on my neighbors and having this noise in the shop would be a problem. If you have the area and budget to do 3-phase, it would be a great thing. -Aaron
<Video.mov>
|
Yes, I saw that but like you, not sure how it actually ?works.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 19, 2024, at 9:02?AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote: ? Todays powerdrive K1 looks like this, so it’s hard to tell how it operates from the photo. Perhaps it’s a dual function button for fast and slow adjustments.? <fel_power_drive_k1_2014.jpg>
On Jan 18, 2024, at 4:20 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Dan,
You may not have read earlier msgs. The discussion is about only having the electronic height control and NOT having full powerdrive.
I mentioned earlier, that this is implemented on my saw where I only have?a 2 speed elevation control and no?white button for fine adj. I am familiar with powerdrive it as I do have it on my dual51.
I do not know if what I have is the K1 option of today; If it is, I would not get it. Following is not a sharp pic but K975 control panel is shown in the distance and pointed to by the red arrow. Left most is 2 speed elevation switch, then Green/red main saw control switches followed by green button for scoring saw. Below scoring saw switch is the location for scoring saw elevation switch (not installed on my machine).
On Jan 18, 2024, at 1:27?PM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? As far as I know, powerdrive K2 refers to height and angle control, K1 would be for height only. Here’s a short video showing the operation. The spring loaded switch gets you close to where you want to be, then press the white button to go up in increments off .005” or .1mm if you’re using metric. Same concept applies for the blade angle controls as well. I have my dado stack diameter programmed in as well and it’s as easy as short pressing the reset button to switch between diameters. I think you can program up to 10 diameters but I may be wrong.?
On Jan 18, 2024, at 11:59 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 08:47 AM, <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
Fair point. Regarding seperate wiring, I am anyway need to run a new electric outlet for the saw, so running from the panel directly to the saw vs running to to phase convertor and from there to the outlet should be almost the same amount of work.
I'll get some quotes and then see
I looked into converting to 3-phase in my hobby shop last year and I really wish I could have done it.? Ultimately, it would have been too costly.? I estimated that it would be probably a $15k effort because I wanted everything legit with permits, etc (that's not even factoring in selling my tools and re-buying).? The city inspectors are basically scared to sign off on anything they don't understand, so that means you need a proper electrical engineering design.? Plus the permit fee would have been really expensive because this is a non-standard project for residential electrical.? Add in electricians for install as well.? Other areas may vary so you should consult a reputable electrician with experience in this kind of thing. A 10HP phase perfect unit wants an 80 amp circuit (based on documentation).? This is a LOT to allocate, so make sure your main service panel and house has enough reserve.? The load calc sheets on my house indicate a 144A load before adding in any shop equipment.? I could not have done this with my current 200A service panel.? If you have a 200A panel, I would say that you could do this if you don't have any air conditioning or pool pumps, etc (or even electric car chargers).? Fun fact: many new homes are actually putting in electric water heaters because PG&E wants to discontinue natural gas.? These electric water heaters suck an enormous amount of current. Of course, you can install and wire your own phase converter and electrical.? However, if something happens, insurance companies love to decline claims on this type of stuff. The other part was the noise generated by Phase Perfect.? I did not have the ability to mount it outside in an area that would not impose on my neighbors and having this noise in the shop would be a problem. If you have the area and budget to do 3-phase, it would be a great thing. -Aaron
<Video.mov>
|
Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.
?
Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.
For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.
That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.
-Karl
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David P. Best
Dan Gavrilyuk
PK
imran
Caesar Simon