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My machine just arrived West sacramento and it is ready for pickup.
I paid Felder to commission my saw and I wonder if any of you have a list of things I should check before I release the guy?
Should I start assembling the saw by myself (to give the Felder's employee more time to complete the calibration) or should I leave it wrapped so they won't blame me of any damage.
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I think you are expected to get the machine in position and connected to power and dust extraction before the tech shows up.
The tech and I worked together to install the slider on my saw. I had the base in place and leveled up before the tech arrived.
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John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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I picked up my slider today from Felder warehouse in Sacramento and dropped of my old K3 slider.
I rented a 12 ft trailer from United rentals.
loading up the K3 was super easy with the mobility kit (As oppose to loading it on U-Haul trailer which was nightmare)
The pallet of the K700 is huge and we rotated the pallet in order to accommodate the 3.2m slider
When I tried to unload it with a pallet jack, the pallet jack was too small and the end of the pallet was still on the ground.?
At that point, even if I got a forklift I wasn’t able to unload the pallet since the trailer wheels blocked the access from the side of the pallet. luckily the machine was oriented in such a way that I was able to build a ramp from the pallet on the trailer directly to the ground.
I was a stressful hour until I was able to securely placed the saw in its place .
PS.
PK, I almost made the trip (120 miles each direction) without stopping to charge. Each direction consumed 54% battery.
I stopped for 10 min charge on my way back and all blocked all the entire EVGo site. The charging stations don’t accommodate vehicles that tow.?
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I unpacked the saw and found out that the factory ignored my request for metric scale and the crosscut fence arrived with with imperial units :angry-emoji:
It looks like the scale is permanent attached to the fence and not something that I can easily remove and swap (like the rip scale).
Is the fence doomed? (beside adding an ugly metric sticker on it which will probably won't be accurate)
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This is another "deja vu all over again" topic that is constantly brought up. ?There are plenty of suggestions in the message archive. ?It’s also discussed in my Survival Guide which you have. ?Here is my latest post on this topic from the archive - Fastcap and Starrett (among others) also make stick-on replacement measuring tapes/rules:
I recommend you do your own scale conversion by adding a version that has metric and imperial. ?The link below is what I used. ?Get the version that reads right-to-left for the crosscut fence on the outrigger and just paste it over the one that comes with the machine, or the version the reads left-to-right for the rip fence:
The Felder supplied scale is an aluminum strip that can be moved right/left as required to make it accurately read relative to the saw blade kerf cut. ?Just stick down the new one on the back of the aluminum strip Felder provides, and remount it with the new tape face up, and you’re golden. ?You can do the same on both the crosscut and rip fences.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On May 2, 2024, at 8:48?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I unpacked the saw and found out that the factory ignored my request for metric scale and the crosscut fence arrived with with imperial units :angry-emoji:
It looks like the scale is permanent attached to the fence and not something that I can easily remove and swap (like the rip scale).
Is the fence doomed? (beside adding an ugly metric sticker on it which will probably won't be accurate)
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On Thu, May 2, 2024 at 09:37 PM, David P. Best wrote:
lied scale is an aluminum strip that can be moved right/left as required to make it accurately read relative to the saw blade kerf cut. ?Just stick down the new one on the back of the aluminum s
The strip that move left to right is only on the rip fence. On the crosscut fence it is fixed and it doesn't move.
This is why I think I'll have issues with the calibrate it.
For the crosscut fence I shouldn't get both (R2L for the fence and L2R for the telescopic section)?
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Now I’m confused. ?I’m not saying you are wrong, but unless Felder has modified their measuring tape system, the measurement scale should be movable - if for no other reason than to facilitate shifts left/right to calibrate it accurately to the position of the saw blade cut. ?Typically the measurement scale is anchored into one of the slots in the extrusion with a hex-shaped wafer with a locking grub screw as shown below:
You can see this in the end-view of the crosscut fence shown below (red points to locking wafer, green to the movable aluminum strip). ?
If you have a telescoping extension, that measurement scale is typically etched into the bar that slides out from inside the extrusion, but it’s a simple matter to paste a different sticky-back tape over the existing version. ? On the rip fence, more typically the aluminum scale strip is held in position by a leaf spring under the rule that pushes it up in the slot against the lip overhangs.
Please take some photos of your fence extrusion and scale from the end position (like above) so we can see how the measurement scale is affixed to the extrusion, and post them here. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On May 2, 2024, at 10:46?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
On Thu, May 2, 2024 at 09:37 PM, David P. Best wrote:
lied scale is an aluminum strip that can be moved right/left as required to make it accurately read relative to the saw blade kerf cut. ?Just stick down the new one on the back of the aluminum s The strip that move left to right is only on the rip fence. On the crosscut fence it is fixed and it doesn't move. This is why I think I'll have issues with the calibrate it. For the crosscut fence I shouldn't get both (R2L for the fence and L2R for the telescopic section)?
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Hi Netanel,?
I ordered my KF700 without the DRO on the rip fence, but after running a few specialty projects that would have benefitted from the DRO, I reached out to Felder and was able to order the parts necessary to retrofit the DRO on to my machine. On the one hand, I appreciated the ability to add the DRO after the fact, but the cost to do so was significantly more than having it included in the original scope.?
I should also point out that it was "iffy" whether Felder would sell me the parts or not, so there's no guarantee they'll offer the same opportunity in the future.?
In terms of Felder DRO or aftermarket, everybody is going to be different in terms of how they value their time. For myself, time spent fussing around adapting an aftermarket solution is time not spent producing billable products, so, for myself and how I value my time, I determined it was more cost effective to go with the Felder solution.?
I almost exclusively use the rip fence as a bump stop for crosscutting.?
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Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Thank you Tom for your feedback.
it is a bit too late since I got the
slider yesterday :) (I ordered Felders DRO
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I level the machine today and start measure the tolerance of the saw.
I find out that the cast iron top is out of complainer of 0.25mm. It looks a bit high, no?
I thought Felder line suppose to be calibrated at the at for higher level than the Hammer line.
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Well?Netanel, did you look closer? ?What did you find? ?Post photos as requested please.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On May 2, 2024, at 11:12?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
Now I’m confused. ?I’m not saying you are wrong, but unless Felder has modified their measuring tape system, the measurement scale should be movable - if for no other reason than to facilitate shifts left/right to calibrate it accurately to the position of the saw blade cut. ?Typically the measurement scale is anchored into one of the slots in the extrusion with a hex-shaped wafer with a locking grub screw as shown below:
You can see this in the end-view of the crosscut fence shown below (red points to locking wafer, green to the movable aluminum strip). ?
If you have a telescoping extension, that measurement scale is typically etched into the bar that slides out from inside the extrusion, but it’s a simple matter to paste a different sticky-back tape over the existing version. ? On the rip fence, more typically the aluminum scale strip is held in position by a leaf spring under the rule that pushes it up in the slot against the lip overhangs.
Please take some photos of your fence extrusion and scale from the end position (like above) so we can see how the measurement scale is affixed to the extrusion, and post them here. ?
On May 2, 2024, at 10:46?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
On Thu, May 2, 2024 at 09:37 PM, David P. Best wrote:
lied scale is an aluminum strip that can be moved right/left as required to make it accurately read relative to the saw blade kerf cut. ?Just stick down the new one on the back of the aluminum s The strip that move left to right is only on the rip fence. On the crosscut fence it is fixed and it doesn't move. This is why I think I'll have issues with the calibrate it. For the crosscut fence I shouldn't get both (R2L for the fence and L2R for the telescopic section)?
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Adjusting the cast iron table flatness and the alignment of the sliding table to a flat cast iron table is part of the normal commissioning procedure. ?A Felder tech will align the sliding table to be 0.010” (that’s 0.254mm) above the cast iron top as part of the commissioning package. ?But it is certainly possible to dial it in closer. ?Sound like your machine is to Felder spec, but you didn’t comment about how well it stays aligned as it’s moved forward & back. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On May 6, 2024, at 10:20?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I level the machine today and start measure the tolerance of the saw.
I find out that the cast iron top is out of complainer of 0.25mm. It looks a bit high, no?
I thought Felder line suppose to be calibrated at the at for higher level than the Hammer line.
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I use the precision machine level and align it on one side of the saw. I moved it to the backend of the cast iron and it show a big difference. I added a filler gauge of 0.25” (inch and not mm as described above) to one of the side of the level in order to aligned it.
 
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I am not talking about the slider itself. And how it is reference to the cast iron. I am talking about the fact that the cast iron itself isn’t coplanar?
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In that case, you should make some adjustments. ? The important thing is that the cast-iron table is as flat flat as possible by getting the edge along the rip fence to be coplanar with the edge along the extension table at the outfeed side of the chassis. ?The cast iron top becomes the reference surface to which you align the sliding table, so if the reference surface is not flat, you’re be chasing your tail when you get to the sliding table alignment.?
The cast top doesn’t have to be level per se, but it does have to be as flat as possible. Cast iron surfaces are easy to twist into the shape of a banana if your machine is not sitting on a flat floor surface (Felder machine chassis are flexible enough to conform to the floor surface). So I always recommend putting the machine on adjustable leveling feet and using those leveling feet to adjust the top to a flat surface.?
Failing that, the cast iron top is suspended at all four corners via adjustable threaded studs and adjusting nuts and jamb nuts which attach it to the machine chassis. You can use those four adjustment points to bring your cast-iron top into a near perfectly flat condition. They are called out in the attached parts diagram, and you will find four (4) such attachment points - one at each corner of the cast iron top. ?Once that’s accomplished, you can move onto aligning the sliding table surface to the cast-iron top surface. Hope this helps.
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best 
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On May 6, 2024, at 10:35?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I am not talking about the slider itself. And how it is reference to the cast iron. I am talking about the fact that the cast iron itself isn’t coplanar?
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Netanel,
I had the same kind of precision level results on my K700S before I adjusted the leveling feet.? I would recommend doing leveling feet first.? This should let you resolve the cast iron twist issue.? I would not start working with the cast iron mounting bolts at this point.? Like David said, the chassis/frame of this machine is flexible enough where it will allow a twist in the cast iron top if the floor is not flat.
-Aaron
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Sorry, one more thing.? I see that you have a mobility kit.? If you decide to move the saw around a lot, you will likely cause the alignment to go out of spec whenever you "move" the saw.? If your not picky about a .010" spec, then that's fine.
-Aaron
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Thank you David.
Aaron - I don’t have the mobility kit. I installed yesterday levelling feet on the machine.
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To add to David and Aaron’s advice, keep in mind that, if needed, there should be a 5th support point to counter the weight of the saw aggregate. I am not 100% about K700 but it is present in my KF and K975 saw. This will allow you to remove a dip in cast iron close to the middle of the table. Check you saw parts drawing to locate this bracket. Here is how it appears in my K975 drawing. See label B to visualize where the bracket is attached to the saw chassis. The vertical bolt at the end of the bracket is the persuader. Meant to remove small dips, go easy as it can potentially crack the cast iron.
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On May 7, 2024, at 11:30?AM, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote: ?Sorry, one more thing.? I see that you have a mobility kit.? If you decide to move the saw around a lot, you will likely cause the alignment to go out of spec whenever you "move" the saw.? If your not picky about a .010" spec, then that's fine.
-Aaron
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This link will give you some images of where to find that support strut and the bolt that can adjust the center of the cast iron top along the edge nest to the sliding table - from the archives:
/g/felderownersgroup/message/130758
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On May 7, 2024, at 9:14?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
To add to David and Aaron’s advice, keep in mind that, if needed, there should be a 5th support point to counter the weight of the saw aggregate. I am not 100% about K700 but it is present in my KF and K975 saw. This will allow you to remove a dip in cast iron close to the middle of the table. Check you saw parts drawing to locate this bracket. Here is how it appears in my K975 drawing. See label B to visualize where the bracket is attached to the saw chassis. The vertical bolt at the end of the bracket is the persuader. Meant to remove small dips, go easy as it can potentially crack the cast iron.
<image0.jpeg>
On May 7, 2024, at 11:30?AM, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote: ?Sorry, one more thing.? I see that you have a mobility kit.? If you decide to move the saw around a lot, you will likely cause the alignment to go out of spec whenever you "move" the saw.? If your not picky about a .010" spec, then that's fine.
-Aaron
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David P. Best
Tom Gensmer
imran