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Shaper comparison
I am looking to add a shaper to my shop. This is my first shaper and I am not sure what is crucial and what is nice to have? I am currently thinking to get the F900Z with the following configuration: * aigner safety fence * Crosscut fence 1100 mm(43") The price of this configuration is around $16k and there is additional $1k if I would like to add a digital LED/motor for the spindle angle. How frequent are you changing the angle of the shaper? ? I also asked for another quote for the Profil 45Z (non X-motion) |
If its your first shaper, why not try something second hand that doesnt cost a small fortune??
I have owned several shaper in the past, mainly Italian, Casadei, SCM... I almost bought a Profil 45Z but I have never owned a Felder shaper.? After a few years of experience I knew whats important to me, so I bought a SCM TI145EP. not a lot of information on the internet about them so I took this video a couple of months after I received it.? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j00aPTETMYQ Hope you find it useful.? |
Hi Netanel,?
Great to hear you're looking into adding a shaper to your inventory. In terms of which machine, what features, etc...., it will really be driven by what you're looking to do. For instance, will you mostly be producing cabinet doors? Furniture? Entry doors? Euro-style windows? Are you just looking for an up-sized router table? The F900Z is a decent shaper, though it suffers from a hood design where you're left guessing as to the precise location/setting (there's no readout, just a scale with a pointer). Not necessarily a problem if you process long runs of material, but if you're contantly setting- and re-setting, you'll want some manner of readout. The Profil 45 shares the same frame and guts as the 900, but adds a readout for the fence.? I produce a fair number of windows and doors, and discovered that I wanted a good tenoning table, AND a pull-out support bar for perimeter milling on assembled sashes, so I ultimately sold my Profil 45Z and ordered a TF-130 with the TL Pro-10 package. It's essentially the same configuration as Albert Lee's TI-145, minus the tilting spindle, and minus the electronics, but all of the axis do still have a mechanical digital readout accurate to 0.1mm.? On a Felder machine, if you wanted a pull-out bar and a tenoning table, you'd order a "M" configuration with the cast iron table extensions and pull-out bar, and supplement it with Rangate's bolt-on tenoning table: ? But, again, it really depends on what you're doing. As Albert Lee suggests, you may benefit from buying a second hand machine to start off with, this way you can identify what you like, what you don't like, etc.... There are plenty of used SCM shapers out there, and second hand Felder machines are not uncommon.? I'll also make the obligatory suggestion that if you are not familiar with working on a shaper, you may benefit from attending the Alpine Technical Workshop's "Advanced Joinery" class, where Joe Calhoon will provide you with an excellent overview on how to safely set up and utilize your shaper, along with a variety of other machine tips/tricks/techniques: -- Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI have the Profil 45Z (non-Xmotion) like you have called out in your post. ?I upgraded from the F700Z in 2005 specifically to get the better hood system. ? It¡¯s served me well, and if you want to stick with the Felder line, then the uplift from the F900 to the Profil 45 is definitely worth the $4,500 difference IMO for a variety of reasons I can go into if you want. ?I have a lot of information posted about this machine and the Aigner options and workflows here: ?https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/72157720381115447/But Felder is hardly the only game in town, and I would seriously recommend you do two things before buying a shaper: ? 1 - go to the Alpine class and get familiar with the use of the machine first, that way you will make a much better and informed decision about what configuration is best suited to your situation. 2 - look closely at the SCMI lineup of shapers and compare quotes. ? Whatever you do, don¡¯t get a shaper without a power feeder. ?The Comatic feeders are what I would recommend: https://www.co-matic.com/en/html/product/index.php?cid=51 David Best
DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Thank you everyone. I am doing woodworking as a side hustle/hobby and not as my main day job, so I have a limited time in the shop. That is why I am also looking for machines with DROs and motorized fence so I¡¯ll spend less time setting them ups and running tests pieces. Do you think I should do it the opposite way? I will also take a look at the SCM shapers. |
I would look at SCM. At the Vegas show I looked at a T130 equipped with a pinned fence with mechanical digital readout and looked like a robust machine. I have one Martin shaper with full auto fence and memory for cutter settings, my other shaper is a Hofmann with pinned fence and mechanical readout. It is darn near as fast to set. Especially if you understand cutter geometry and diameters. And no worries about electrical failures
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I got a profile 45z x-motion as my first shaper last October and have been absolutely loving it.
I'm a hobbyist in a small garage shop, and tilting spindle was a must have for me. Being able to dial in any angle chamfer with regular rebate blocks is great. Also being able to adjust angle on profiles to get different looks is really nice too. Before the shaper, I had to try so many different angled router bits or make sloped false tables on my router table to try and get the specific look I wanted. My shaper bundle (part of the sale last summer) came with the normal safety-bar fence, but I opted to also get the Aigner fence. The Aigner is way nicer and more convenient to use. The profil45 also comes with the Aigner Centrex guard, but I'm not sure if that is available for the f900z or not. I went with the comatic dc40 feeder with smart stand and have also been very happy with it. -- Larry Long NeckJust a noob trying to learn the ways of woodMaking youtube videos now! - |
Hi Netanel,?
If you have the temporal flexibility, I'd suggest attending an Alpine class prior to purchasing an expensive machine. Joe has several machines in different configurations, so it's a nice audit of electronic machines versus manual, machines with- and without- tenoning tables, etc.... Usually, the "Advanced Joinery" class is a good starting point.? -- Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI totally agree with Tom. ?When I got my first KF700 with a shaper, it was back in 2001 when several other FOG stalwarts like John Renzetti, John Lawrence, Thomas Haar, and Phillip Davidson got their first shaper, and we were all dumbfounded that there wasn¡¯t a decent training class available. ?So we arranged our own class at the Felder office, and brought in a so-called ¡°expert¡± to conduct the class. ?The instructor was not a good teacher, ?spending the entire first 4 hours discussing how the class would be conducted and when we could/couldn¡¯t ask questions, etc. ?But together, we learned enough to be less intimidated, stay relatively safe (I consider the shaper one of the most dangerous machines in the shop), and we all ordered tons of Aigner safety gear and shaper cutters, many of which I still have not used. It¡¯s a blessing that Joe Calhoon now offers an exceptional class, and I would highly recommend you go to his Advanced Joinery program before buying a machine or tooling for it. If you absolutely need to buy a machine now, DM me. ?I¡¯ll elaborate on the choices you face. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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I have not attended Alpine woodworking class but I have heard it is very informative, if I was in the states I would definitely signed up..?
Before I bought my SCM shaper with side tenoning table I was a little hesitant. Joe chimed in and cleared my doubt - Thank you Joe.? I have a Comatic DC40 on my shaper. a definite must.? the timing to buy a machine is critical. I bought my ti145ep at the height of Covid. SCM gave me a huge discount.? |
In addition to the fine advice offered, I will add that you would be better off with a 1 1/4" spindle.? This is the standard for most good tooling.? If you expect to get some 30mm cutters in the future you can add a 30mm later, or add a 1" and use bushings to get to 30mm. Marlowe McGraw On Wed, May 1, 2024 at 9:41?PM Albert Lee via <timbershelf=[email protected]> wrote: I have not attended Alpine woodworking class but I have heard it is very informative, if I was in the states I would definitely signed up..? |
Hi, since you don¡¯t own tooling at present, you can select either the 1 1/4¡± or 30mm spindle.
If you already own a saw with a 30mm spindle, you can share the blades and grooving tools you own with the shaper if you have a 30mm spindle. I would also suggest MAN rated tooling, or tooling that meets that design criteria to reduce the risk of kickback. You¡¯re going to love having a shaper and you¡¯ve picked a nice feeder for it. Regards, Rod |