On Jan 17, 2022, at 1:39 AM, mikkel@... wrote:

Darn, but that's how it is. I'll have to roll up my sleves and do a one off for my saw then :-) I also do like the idea of a replaceable piece in the end of the part, so with normal tear and wear it can easily be replaced.
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Regards,

Mikkel

On Jan 20, 2022, at 2:15 PM, Fred Rossi <fred@...> wrote:

The short design is actually a plus. Just add a sacrificial block and the design works forever. Many thanks Brian.?

Fred

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On Sat, Jan 8, 2022 at 2:15 PM Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:

I spent a few days and printed some test parts to fit into the standard 72mm x 70mm fence extrusion. Did the final iteration today and it’s ready to go. I changed it to use a standard 90? cone point set screw (I machined a couple to 60? point here because that’s what I had on hand, but they aren’t readily available). I designed this with the threads in the model, so it prints the threads into the part, but most likely you will have to chase it with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap to clean up the threads. Mine seems to print the lower portion of the threads just fine, but the first turn or two is tight.

This design allows you to slide the tongue into the extrusion and just snug the set screw which wedges it into place, comes right back out with loosening the set screw. I don’t really want to get into the printing of these, so I’ve uploaded the file into the files section.?

A couple of notes, I set my slicer to do 1.8mm walls and then did 3mm top layer. The extra wall thickness makes it strong enough to use the screw to wedge it tight, and the extra thickness at the top will allow you to trim it to exactly the blade position and (hopefully) not go through into the internal support structure. I just did these in PLA as it prints fine and seems plenty strong. The “tongue” sticks out 1.625, so hopefully that’s pretty close to what most of the machines measure from the blade to the rip fence extrusion. Print it oriented with the face in the first picture down, hardest part is getting the damn support structure off the bottom once it’s done.

Oh, set screw is here:?

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STL file is here on the FOG:?/3D Printer Files/Non DRO stepped V2 90 degree point.stl

Backside, hard to see, but it has four splits to allow it to wedge open

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Slides right into the fence extrusion

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Tighten the set screw and it locks it in place

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Brian Lamb
blamb11@...

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...

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Fred Rossi

617.905.6497

On Jan 22, 2022, at 3:08 PM, Fred Rossi <fred@...> wrote:

?

Super simple. I cut a long piece of oak to mate the printed block, cut a few lengths to match the block width (1/8” round over bit for the inside match), double stick tape block and wood together, drilled the whole thing twice with a 13/64 bit, tapped the block with 1/4x18 tap, enlarged the wood holes and used 2 1/4x18 1 3/8” long screws to hold it all together.?

The wood was made about 1/4” too wide so I could run the whole assembly past the saw to create a zero clearance. I am going to make another ?for a 45deg cut zero clearance.?

Hope?this helps.?

Fred?

On Sat, Jan 22, 2022 at 3:35 PM G. Lane <lane247@...> wrote:

Hi Fred..? i love that design change!!!..may i ask? how the sacrfical block is attached to the plastic??? I may modify? mine? to your arrangement when i wear it out

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Fred Rossi

617.905.6497