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FWIW, I happen to speak with the guy running Felder service dept and he confirmed that warranty starts from the time machine is received.

Yea Derek, I'm OK with the flaw. It happens with castings. Like anything else in life, it's how it's handled. It's the argument over warranty, being told that my machine was out of warranty because it's build date was 2022, and the fact that I still haven't heard back on the issue. Worse than the walnut it ruined when it broke, now my arm match isn't what I planned, and that's really irritating me.

My fence also swung into position, which is really a poor design in 2024. For those now wanting to blame me for the breakage, tightening it was to the point where that stopped, then kipped.?

Since I've already ordered a driftmaster, and for the time being I'm stuck using a 14" bandsaw, I'll probably also have to talk to the state AG about warranty representation. That's one call. The other will be to my rep, to tell him to lose my contact information. They've gotten two tools out of me, but have lost any further relationship at this point, all for $170. Which, at this point I've spent more out of pocket, and I've got machinery sitting around doing nothing. Shame, I like sending money to home-adjacent. However at this point I don't trust Felder US or AT. Saftladen.

The broken casting for the fence base happened to a few I know as well. In my case, the fit of the base was a little sloppy, which made the fence "swing" into position. The work-around was to push against the fence before tightening down. But this should have beeen unnecessary.

For all of us (with an issue), Felder (in Perth) was prompt in replacing the part.

I compared the parts, and the original had a thinner casting. The fact that it is a casting, which may have hidden occlusions, places it at risk. Having said all this, my replacement is about 15 years old now.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Imran and Alex,

I bought this as new. Delivery from felder.
I paid in full, the day they provided the invoice.
I did not ask them to deliver a two year old machine.

Purchase date, on my invoice is Feb of this year. It doesn't matter anymore, now I've noticed that the table isn't coplanar (of course, now I'm being picky about everything) and I've already ordered a replacement third party fence.

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This is a bit late, but perhaps it'll help someone else make a decision in future. I have an N4400 that in the few months I've owned it has been fine. Except that the fence head casting cracked and felder seems to date their warranty from build date. Since this thing sat in their warehouses for two years before it was shipped to me, I'm having to argue about warranty coverage. Long story short, buy used as it doesn't seem to matter. Also, the replacement part is over half the cost of a driftmaster.

What a juice-shop this outfit is.

I also have the Lenox Woodmaster CT, 25mm and it is great blade.
I haven’t tried to replace the tension spring, but my saw claims it can tension 25mm blade vs the like you shared that is up to 20mm blades?

Used Hammer N4400 - Further update;
After trying several blades with variously underwhelming results we ended up getting a Lenox 1" CT Woodmaster blade from a supplier in the Netherlands. We also upgraded the tension spring following instructions from
all I can say is what a difference! - the saw cuts smoothly with no noticeable drift and cuts 10" veneers in oak with 0.1mm tolerances along length.

During the process we also swapped out the original worn euro guides with a new set of ceramic guides. I'm not entirely sure what I think of these - the bottom guide is positioned way below the base of the table and the whole design appears poorly thought out. We improved things by turning the bottom guide upside down and 3d printing a spacer which resulted in pushing the guides nearer to the table base. With this adjustment the thrust guide now runs below the side guides but this doesn't appear to have any negative effect.?
I notice Felder sell 2 versions of the ceramic guides - 1 for saws until year of manufacture 2020 and the other for saws as of year of manufacture 2021. As our saw is a 2016 model we obviously bought the version for older saws. I haven't actually had my hands on the other newer version but the design looks better thought, particularly with regards the bottom guides - it appears the guides would sit higher up in the saw nearer to the table base without all the adjustments that we made. My guess is with a little fettling it wouldn't be too difficult to get the newer version to work with an older saw. I would be annoyed if it actually transpires that the newer version actually fits without adjustment to older saws and would question Felder's motives for not making this clear..

Anyway the bottom line is we now have a saw that works as it should.
It's a shame there isn't a uk supplier of the Lenox blades but the supplier in the Netherlands was very helpful and the price was as cheap as if bought in the US..?

The scribing beam will tell you that, as it'll either draw one straight line, or it won't.
I couldn't say what tolerance a 4400 sized wheel needs to be, or in-fact if a Formula wheel of the same size
has less margin for error having a longer chassis.

All I can say is my 600mm wheeled saw, (ACM Star) required the wheels to be better, i.e half the 0.5mm discrepancy,
in order for the beam not to draw multiple lines.
(mimicking the results of someone changing tracking adjustment)
So a simple test checking all over the wheel prior with the beam, to be sure that the pen keeps dropping onto the same tick or line.

Best use an old blade for the job, if you've got one which has a damaged set.

Plenty of recent Centauro threads you'd find on the creek, as some of those CO saws were made fully adjustable,
hence perhaps a more fitting place to post in more detail, regarding the why's or why not's,
and another thread with some trial and error involved, whilst getting used to using the tool, along with some other details relating to the job.

All the best
Tom

Tom we did think of checking the outside rims - we used a dial guage and on the whole they were pretty good - top wheel edge maximum deflection 0.2mm and 0.1mm on bottom. Is this really enough to cause a problem when taking measurements from them?

Thanks for all the replies again.
Tom i'll have a good look at your detailed instructions on Monday - appreciated.
Yes it's a new blade and yes I am aware of the adjustment on the top wheel.

Did you put a new blade on it before mucking around with moving wheels? Tom is the world expert on bandsaws, he will sort it out for you.?

I've documented getting my bandsaw fully working (over a long period of troubleshooting, that is)
last year, and posted my findings on pretty much every forum considering wheel alignment, using the scribing beam
which proved the faces of most wheels isn't trustworthy to register any sort of beam against, so don't let that throw ya off.

/g/felderownersgroup/message/132955?p=%2C%2C%2C20%2C0%2C0%2C0%3A%3Arecentpostdate%2Fsticky%2C%2Cbandsaw+wheel+alignment%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C102356245

I've mentioned elsewhere like Sawmill Creek, using a pound shop laser pen mounted in a block, which is bored for a longer wheel retaining screw,
(preferably with some accurate tightly fitting component) butted up to the inner race of the wheel, would give a projection
and could be used instead, either way you'd be sticking some masking tape down, and comparing the lines drawn.

All the best
Tom

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[Edited Message Follows]

To clarify as my description above is not easy to follow;
current situation is 2nd illustration from left (parallel, not coplanar - bottom wheel 1cm forward of top!).
We managed to fix situation as shown 3rd illustration from left (not parallel (lateral)).

Did you already adjust the position of the top wheel using the wheel at the back of the saw (#14 in the diagram at )

Kind regards,

Jonathan

To clarify as my description above is not easy to follow;
current situation is 2nd illustration from left (parallel, not coplanar - bottom wheel 1cm forward of top!).
We managed to fix situation as shown 3rd illustration from left (not parallel (lateral)).

..running with new 3/4" resaw blade - Tuffsaws fascut

Update;?
After a lot of fettling the wheels are now parallel but I'm still getting the same issues re. drift. Mostly pulls away from fence except with very thin pieces where it pulls in. All very puzzling...