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Power feeder setup on a shaper (Comatic DC40)

 

I recently added the Comatic DC40 to my f700z. I ran some stiles for shaker doors and when cutting, mid profile I get some vibrations. I'm not sure if the wheels are slipping and would really appreciate if anyone can advice what might cause the vibration and also how to adjust the feeder correctly- I set it about 5-6mm lower than the thickness of the profile and about 10mm difference between back to front (angled in)

TIA
 

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JDhm,

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It would help if you share a pic of your setup and the milled piece showing the effect of the vibration.

?

Imran Malik

?

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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of JDhm via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2024 8:37 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] Power feeder setup on a shaper (Comatic DC40)

?

I recently added the Comatic DC40 to my f700z. I ran some stiles for shaker doors and when cutting, mid profile I get some vibrations. I'm not sure if the wheels are slipping and would really appreciate if anyone can advice what might cause the vibration and also how to adjust the feeder correctly- I set it about 5-6mm lower than the thickness of the profile and about 10mm difference between back to front (angled in)

TIA

 

The vibrations don't have any effect on the cut, it cuts clean it just doesn't feel right. I'm attaching photos of the setup

20240709_185209.jpg
20240709_185158.jpg

 

Lube. A spritz of mineral spirits in a spray bottle or a rub of some paraffin wax block. On the base table and possibly the fence. Often I swipe just the infeed contact points before the feeder grabs for safety clearances (no hands anywhere dangerous) and the lube drags through on its own. It takes very little to make difference and you'll identify what symptoms mean you need to add more. If you are new to the power feeder, you may also find the pressure running through will help self polish critical surfaces after a couple hundred or thousand feet run across the contact surfaces too.


Also big difference from texture of the wood running through, rough milled through fine sanded makes a difference in power feeder grab and contact surface friction.



Happy experimenting!
 

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I use supergleit on planer table but have not had to lubricate the KF other than just regular cleaning. Then again I do not do the volume Brett Wissel does, so I would follow his advice.

It looks like you have two wheels in front and two behind the cutter. I only angle the front wheel in about 6mm compared to the rear. For the height, I don’t measure it. I just make sure that the material moves the wheel up and I get good feed. 5 to 6 mm is definitely enough, you may see if ~4mm makes a difference.

You may just run a board through the PF w/o running the cutter to see if you get the same vibration.?

Keep an eye on the rear of your material when it leaves the infeed fence. It is not uncommon for it to move away from the fence.

Imran Malik

On Jul 9, 2024, at 10:09?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:

?
Lube. A spritz of mineral spirits in a spray bottle or a rub of some paraffin wax block. On the base table and possibly the fence. Often I swipe just the infeed contact points before the feeder grabs for safety clearances (no hands anywhere dangerous) and the lube drags through on its own. It takes very little to make difference and you'll identify what symptoms mean you need to add more. If you are new to the power feeder, you may also find the pressure running through will help self polish critical surfaces after a couple hundred or thousand feet run across the contact surfaces too.


Also big difference from texture of the wood running through, rough milled through fine sanded makes a difference in power feeder grab and contact surface friction.



Happy experimenting!
 

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I would recommend taking the following steps:

  • Wax and buff the top surface of your shaper. The best wax I’ve found to use for this is Renaissance wax because it dries extremely hard and produces a very slippery surface as well as lasting long time. ?I apply and rub in the wax with a fine Scotch-Brite pad, blow that dry with compressed air, and then buff out with a cotton rag. ?
  • I can’t tell from your photos what type of tires you have on your feeder or wheels, but they must be clean and free of dirt and dust. The best way I have to clean them is to dampen a rag with Acetone or Naphtha ?and hold that against the rotating wheels. ?If the tires are old or hard rubber, you might consider replacing them with polyurethane equivalents to get a better grip on the material being propelled through the cutting operation.?
  • Your feeder wheels appear to me to be set too low. This can cause jumping, stuttering, and skipping during the feeding operation. If your wheels are clean, and your machine surface is polished with wax a 2 to 3 mm distance from the top of your material to the bottom of your wheel should be sufficient.?
  • It also appears to me that you have the feeder set at two steep of an angle relative to the trajectory of the material feed path.?

Hope this helps.

David Best - via mobile phone?

On Jul 9, 2024, at 7:09?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:

?
Lube. A spritz of mineral spirits in a spray bottle or a rub of some paraffin wax block. On the base table and possibly the fence. Often I swipe just the infeed contact points before the feeder grabs for safety clearances (no hands anywhere dangerous) and the lube drags through on its own. It takes very little to make difference and you'll identify what symptoms mean you need to add more. If you are new to the power feeder, you may also find the pressure running through will help self polish critical surfaces after a couple hundred or thousand feet run across the contact surfaces too.


Also big difference from texture of the wood running through, rough milled through fine sanded makes a difference in power feeder grab and contact surface friction.



Happy experimenting!
 

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My two cents is the centerline of the spindle should be in the centerline between the widest distance between 2 wheels
it’s critical that the amount of tension put on with the rollers is the same in the front as the rare so if you got 8 mm of difference between roller and material should be at the front roller and the back roller the way to adjust that is roller should be parallel and X and Y on the tablenot under compression?

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 9, 2024, at 10:22?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:

?I would recommend taking the following steps:

  • Wax and buff the top surface of your shaper. The best wax I’ve found to use for this is Renaissance wax because it dries extremely hard and produces a very slippery surface as well as lasting long time. ?I apply and rub in the wax with a fine Scotch-Brite pad, blow that dry with compressed air, and then buff out with a cotton rag. ?
  • I can’t tell from your photos what type of tires you have on your feeder or wheels, but they must be clean and free of dirt and dust. The best way I have to clean them is to dampen a rag with Acetone or Naphtha ?and hold that against the rotating wheels. ?If the tires are old or hard rubber, you might consider replacing them with polyurethane equivalents to get a better grip on the material being propelled through the cutting operation.?
  • Your feeder wheels appear to me to be set too low. This can cause jumping, stuttering, and skipping during the feeding operation. If your wheels are clean, and your machine surface is polished with wax a 2 to 3 mm distance from the top of your material to the bottom of your wheel should be sufficient.?
  • It also appears to me that you have the feeder set at two steep of an angle relative to the trajectory of the material feed path.?

Hope this helps.

David Best - via mobile phone?

On Jul 9, 2024, at 7:09?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:

?
Lube. A spritz of mineral spirits in a spray bottle or a rub of some paraffin wax block. On the base table and possibly the fence. Often I swipe just the infeed contact points before the feeder grabs for safety clearances (no hands anywhere dangerous) and the lube drags through on its own. It takes very little to make difference and you'll identify what symptoms mean you need to add more. If you are new to the power feeder, you may also find the pressure running through will help self polish critical surfaces after a couple hundred or thousand feet run across the contact surfaces too.


Also big difference from texture of the wood running through, rough milled through fine sanded makes a difference in power feeder grab and contact surface friction.



Happy experimenting!

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