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How do I make this molding
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI know how to achieve everything but the shallow groove between notches. Any ideas? Imran Malik |
Imran , I presume you didn¡¯t have CNC. I don¡¯t and this is how I would attack it ¡..first shape the length of moulding to required shape. I would then make a jig for the router, you would need to cut in from 2 directions to get rid of the round shape of the router cutter. Finish the inside of the cut/hole with chisel. Last job is the cut the division¡¡.These type of moulding are fun especially if you see the internal and external miters and want all the segments the same size. Always start fitting with a full segment on the external mitres and hope the external mitre works out ok Kindest Regards Jonathan Samways Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener informaci¨®n privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilizaci¨®n, divulgaci¨®n y/o copia sin autorizaci¨®n est¨¢ prohibida en virtud de la legislaci¨®n vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma v¨ªa y proceda a su destrucci¨®n. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it. On Tue, 29 Oct 2024 at 14:34, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
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Hey Imran, Will the moulding be painted like the example? Also, do you have a closer photo?? If the final moulding will be painted, then i would do it in two pieces. The front dentil moulding would be one piece. This allows you to run through a dado and achieve the squared?profile in one shot. The second piece is simple flat stock that appears to be taller than the dentil moulding. Once painted they will appear as one moulding. As for the small groove separating the dentil pieces, can you see how deep it is? If it is just a simple shadow line, then you can make a nonthrough?cut at the table saw/radial arm saw. If that skinny groove goes full depth, then i suppose you are gluing a ton of separate dentil pieces with a spacer. This seems like a PITA. I just did a similar dentil moulding for an exterior door and i am interested in how the pros approach it. I did all my cuts with a dado stack at my oliver 232. I made it out of one solid piece of sapele, and this ended up requiring a decent amount of cleanup in very tight nooks n crannies. In hindsight, i would have chopped the moulding up into many different pieces in order to make sanding much much easier. I dont?appreciate the grain continuity as much as i thought i would.? Patrick On Tue, Oct 29, 2024 at 10:19?AM jontathan samways via <jonathansamways=[email protected]> wrote:
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Like Patrick said, do it in two pieces, heck even if it were stained, you could still do it in two by first ripping the piece to be used in two. If the saw kerfs do indeed go full depth, or even close to it, i would simply do the dado cuts for the dentil part, then glue the pieces together before making the kerf cuts.
Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThanks Jonathan, Bryce and Patrick. Yes, the thought was to do it in 2 pieces. Dado the profiles stock and the glue it to a backer. The shadow line is the tough part. I can roll the molding on top of a spinning router V bit but need to secure the end of the molding against something for registration of each cut and also to avoid any sideways movement of the molding. Still not sure if it is safe. Imran Malik On Oct 29, 2024, at 11:45?AM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote:
? Like Patrick said, do it in two pieces, heck even if it were stained, you could still do it in two by first ripping the piece to be used in two. If the saw kerfs do indeed go full depth, or even close to it, i would simply do the dado cuts for the dentil part, then glue the pieces together before making the kerf cuts.
Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw |
Realizing that I could build up complex profiles from multiple pieces was the key thought that really opened up possibilities for me.? Depending on the complexity, I've sometimes build fixtures to enable consistent glue-ups of the component parts.? I've also built fixtures to enable me to run sub components through routing/shaping.? I'm largely a self taught woodworker, but I have a background as a machinist, where creating fixtures is a very common technique for solving difficult work-holding problems. |