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I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill Bélanger
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Here’s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1”) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my “scrap” stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.?
John Pestonjee
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)? Bill Bélanger
<IMG_8049.JPG> <IMG_8047.JPG> <IMG_8046.JPG>
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Bill and John:
?
Such good ideas along the same lines but … John’s wooden threads are pretty cool!
?
?
Here’s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1”) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my “scrap” stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes
the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.?
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum
and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement
is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill Bélanger
|
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1” aluminum square bar, 1/2” bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws… all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won’t hit them accidentally.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but … John’s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here’s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1”) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my “scrap” stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill Bélanger?
|
Aaack… springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1” aluminum square bar, 1/2” bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws… all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won’t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but … John’s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here’s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1”) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my “scrap” stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill Bélanger?
|
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I’m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill Bélanger?
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Aaack… springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1” aluminum square bar, 1/2” bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws… all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won’t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but … John’s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here’s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1”) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my “scrap” stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill Bélanger?
|
I posted this ?8 years ago. ?Plans attached if you want to 3D print it.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:28?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I’m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill Bélanger?
On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Aaack… springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1” aluminum square bar, 1/2” bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws… all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won’t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but … John’s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here’s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1”) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my “scrap” stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill Bélanger?
|
Of course your design would have to be the best David! Very nice rockers on the ends. Brilliant? Bill Belanger?
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 16:42, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? I posted this ?8 years ago. ?Plans attached if you want to 3D print it.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:28?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I’m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill Bélanger?
On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Aaack… springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1” aluminum square bar, 1/2” bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws… all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won’t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but … John’s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here’s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1”) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my “scrap” stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill Bélanger?
<ShotiMac_2157.jpeg> <Clamping Bridge for Sliding Table.pdf>
|
The angle lets the dust hood clear the hold downs.
David, as for 3D printing that complete bridge clamp like you have drawn… I don’t think I would trust a piece of 3D printed plastic with an air clamp capable of what these put out, it would bend or snap after a bit.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:28?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I’m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill Bélanger?
On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Aaack… springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1” aluminum square bar, 1/2” bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws… all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won’t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but … John’s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here’s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1”) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my “scrap” stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill Bélanger?
|
Great content; thanks for sharing!
Jacques
|
Actually, I’ve been doing some test prints with carbon fiber reinforced PETG and Nylon recently, and I’ve been really impressed how well it compares to aluminum in some applications. ? This stuff in particular has really impressed me: ?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDFBPDKP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
This stuff is even stronger, but it is 4X the price and requires well regulated high temp enclosure (which I have but I don’t like the off-gas in my office):
https://www.prusa3d.com/en/product/prusament-pa11-carbon-fiber-black-800g/ Over the weekend I’ll print up my bridge clamp design in that PETG-CF and give it an AB test with Cocobolo using Mac’s clamps at 150 PSI. ? ? Some background on what started me down this path is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQ8FkVi-Kes
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:47?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
The angle lets the dust hood clear the hold downs.
David, as for 3D printing that complete bridge clamp like you have drawn… I don’t think I would trust a piece of 3D printed plastic with an air clamp capable of what these put out, it would bend or snap after a bit.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:28?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I’m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill Bélanger?
On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Aaack… springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1” aluminum square bar, 1/2” bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws… all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won’t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but … John’s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here’s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1”) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my “scrap” stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill Bélanger?
|
Hi David -
Two quick questions.? How wide would you make the clamping bridge and what orientation would you bring it in - upside down with the legs sticking up on on its side?
Jeff
|
Give me couple of days to get back to my shop, I will photograph what I have made. ?But the short answer is that I sized the width to match the pressure foot diameter on my AirTight clamp. ?Any short length material should be held trapped between the two components of a Fritz & Franz jig. ?
I’m not sure I understand your question about “upside down”. ?Both “legs” point down, one on the surface of the sliding table, the other on top of the part being clamped down. ?
And you don’t have to go crazy with this thing. ?What David Luckensmeyer illustrated in his excellent Australian Wood Review article on Using a SlidingTable Saw is every bit as good (shown below), as is Brian Lamb’s suggestion and the others that have been posted here.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Mar 28, 2024, at 9:23?AM, Jeff <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote:
Hi David -
Two quick questions.? How wide would you make the clamping bridge and what orientation would you bring it in - upside down with the legs sticking up on on its side?
Jeff
|
For the upside down question I was referring to when you 3D print it. Would you print it on its side, with the later lines running vertical when the bride is in use or would you print it on its back so that the layer lines runs parallel to the table surface when the bridge is in use. It would print cleanly in both orientations I think but I'm not sure which would be stronger. My guy feeling is it would be stronger with the later lines running parallel to the table so that the layers are being compressed together when under clamping force.?
Jeff?
|
It will be interesting to see what you find out. My experience is that nothing coming off of a FDM printer is going to be as strong as aluminum. The layer adhesion of the plastic is not strong enough and parts always fail along layer lines. Until the technology advances to where we have 5 axis printing where each path of the printer can be interwoven and criss-crossed with other layers, the parts will always fail from separation.
You won’t see aluminum or any other metal for that matter, fail in lines similar to layers. The material is homogenous as it is cast or wrought at a molecular level. This also is seen in injection molded plastic parts… while the plastic itself will fail at some point, it doesn’t come apart at layer lines.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Mar 27, 2024, at 5:18?PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
Actually, I’ve been doing some test prints with carbon fiber reinforced PETG and Nylon recently, and I’ve been really impressed how well it compares to aluminum in some applications. ? This stuff in particular has really impressed me: ?
This stuff is even stronger, but it is 4X the price and requires well regulated high temp enclosure (which I have but I don’t like the off-gas in my office):
Over the weekend I’ll print up my bridge clamp design in that PETG-CF and give it an AB test with Cocobolo using Mac’s clamps at 150 PSI. ? ? Some background on what started me down this path is here:
On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:47?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
The angle lets the dust hood clear the hold downs.
David, as for 3D printing that complete bridge clamp like you have drawn… I don’t think I would trust a piece of 3D printed plastic with an air clamp capable of what these put out, it would bend or snap after a bit.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 4:28?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
Great idea on the angle on the end Brian! I’m gonna steal that idea too! ? Bill Bélanger?
On Mar 27, 2024, at 15:39, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?Aaack… springs not swings.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:36?PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I had made this a couple of years ago, some leftover 1” aluminum square bar, 1/2” bolts that I 3D printed a t-slot adapter for and some springs and jack screws… all stuff I had laying around. I like having the swings under them as they automatically rise up when un-clamped and the bolt in the t-slot locates them just shy of the blade, right on the edge of the slider, so I won’t hit them accidentally. <IMG_5587.jpeg><IMG_5588.jpeg>
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 27, 2024, at 3:07?PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Bill and John: ? Such good ideas along the same lines but … John’s wooden threads are pretty cool! ? ? Here’s my take on an inexpensive, adjustable hold down. ?I already had the tap and die (1”) from an earlier project, and the materials were all from my “scrap” stores. The set-in dowel on the right distributes the force on the work piece, the single point contact to the slider with the threaded dowel makes it self-leveling and non-marring, and the wide board makes clamp placement easy.? <IMG_3956.jpeg>
On Mar 27, 2024, at 1:35?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
?I know we discussed hold downs lately and I had to come up with something to hold the very edge of these legs I'm making. I used 1" aluminum and printed some caps for the ends, then threaded one end for a bolt for adjustment. I think I stole the idea from one of you (sorry) but this is my iteration. Quick and cheap. I have a F&F but this is quicker. The wood is just to test with and the clamp placement is just an example, in case someone would say that Mac's clamp would have fit on the rear piece in the picture. ;)?
Bill Bélanger?
|
I used wood blocks like Lucky's picture for years, just got tired of fumbling with placement and finding material the same thickness to use as the jack side. A little bit of work with scraps laying around and I had the clamps I’m using now, which work very well for repetitive work.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Mar 28, 2024, at 10:32?AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
Give me couple of days to get back to my shop, I will photograph what I have made. ?But the short answer is that I sized the width to match the pressure foot diameter on my AirTight clamp. ?Any short length material should be held trapped between the two components of a Fritz & Franz jig. ?
I’m not sure I understand your question about “upside down”. ?Both “legs” point down, one on the surface of the sliding table, the other on top of the part being clamped down. ?
<ShotiMac_2158.jpg>
And you don’t have to go crazy with this thing. ?What David Luckensmeyer illustrated in his excellent Australian Wood Review article on Using a SlidingTable Saw is every bit as good (shown below), as is Brian Lamb’s suggestion and the others that have been posted here.
<ShotiMac_2159.jpeg>On Mar 28, 2024, at 9:23?AM, Jeff <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote:
Hi David -
Two quick questions.? How wide would you make the clamping bridge and what orientation would you bring it in - upside down with the legs sticking up on on its side?
Jeff
|
Brian, I think the best part of your design is that it registerers the hold down so you get the most purchase on the wood without hitting blade… Repeatedly?
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On Mar 28, 2024, at 10:51, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? I used wood blocks like Lucky's picture for years, just got tired of fumbling with placement and finding material the same thickness to use as the jack side. A little bit of work with scraps laying around and I had the clamps I’m using now, which work very well for repetitive work.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 28, 2024, at 10:32?AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
Give me couple of days to get back to my shop, I will photograph what I have made. ?But the short answer is that I sized the width to match the pressure foot diameter on my AirTight clamp. ?Any short length material should be held trapped between the two components of a Fritz & Franz jig. ?
I’m not sure I understand your question about “upside down”. ?Both “legs” point down, one on the surface of the sliding table, the other on top of the part being clamped down. ?
<ShotiMac_2158.jpg>
And you don’t have to go crazy with this thing. ?What David Luckensmeyer illustrated in his excellent Australian Wood Review article on Using a SlidingTable Saw is every bit as good (shown below), as is Brian Lamb’s suggestion and the others that have been posted here.
<ShotiMac_2159.jpeg>On Mar 28, 2024, at 9:23?AM, Jeff <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote:
Hi David -
Two quick questions.? How wide would you make the clamping bridge and what orientation would you bring it in - upside down with the legs sticking up on on its side?
Jeff
|
Few picks of my bridge clamp , slot and tennon 6” 3x3 ash first one others thin lumber?
 
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 28, 2024, at 2:23?PM, Bill Belanger <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Brian, I think the best part of your design is that it registerers the hold down so you get the most purchase on the wood without hitting blade… Repeatedly? Bill Belanger On Mar 28, 2024, at 10:51, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? I used wood blocks like Lucky's picture for years, just got tired of fumbling with placement and finding material the same thickness to use as the jack side. A little bit of work with scraps laying around and I had the clamps I’m using now, which work very well for repetitive work.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 28, 2024, at 10:32?AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
Give me couple of days to get back to my shop, I will photograph what I have made. ?But the short answer is that I sized the width to match the pressure foot diameter on my AirTight clamp. ?Any short length material should be held trapped between the two components of a Fritz & Franz jig. ?
I’m not sure I understand your question about “upside down”. ?Both “legs” point down, one on the surface of the sliding table, the other on top of the part being clamped down. ?
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And you don’t have to go crazy with this thing. ?What David Luckensmeyer illustrated in his excellent Australian Wood Review article on Using a SlidingTable Saw is every bit as good (shown below), as is Brian Lamb’s suggestion and the others that have been posted here.
<ShotiMac_2159.jpeg>On Mar 28, 2024, at 9:23?AM, Jeff <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote:
Hi David -
Two quick questions.? How wide would you make the clamping bridge and what orientation would you bring it in - upside down with the legs sticking up on on its side?
Jeff
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The only disadvantage I have found with it is the stud is in the t-slot and if you already have clamps on the machine you have to slide them out to put in the bridge clamps. I might make version 2 with some slightly smaller studs and make twist in and out t-nuts, see picture below:
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Bill Belanger
David Luckensmeyer
David P. Best
