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Hammer K3 On/Off switch


 

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I think my DIY solution to add remote slider switches is around $100. If you understand how a switch works you should be able to do it. Obviously, one should feel comfortable working with electricity to attempt. As mentioned earlier in this thread, pendent is another option.

Imran

On May 30, 2021, at 12:12 PM, Ronnie <picktool@...> wrote:

?Crawled once then used a broomstick followed up with a decent length of conduit still going strong today.

It's too bad Hammer doesn't offer this as an extra-cost option.
I wouldn't even want to know how much


 

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Does nobody not just use a long stick??
Elwin


On May 30, 2021, at 9:27 AM, df.stone via groups.io <df.stone@...> wrote:

?I have a K3, and, as you've found and others have said, crosscutting wide panels that extend well right of the blade can necessitate crawling under the workpiece to access the start button. (I remember as a new owner being surprised the first time I encountered this reality, which ran counter to my newbie expectation/assumption that all such operations would be seamless on a sliding tablesaw.) ...It's interesting to read about how different people deal with this. Speaking as a hobbyist user, I don't find letting the saw run continuously is an option for me: my workspace is too tight to safely be loading or removing large panels around a powered blade. Of course, being a hobbyist, I'm not making these cuts--or any repetitive cuts--in any quantity anyway. So it's not a big issue to crawl under twice or three times to hit start, instead of just once, the few times a year this situation crops up. ...Notwithstanding what I just wrote, I personally would pay for the convenience of having a start switch on the sliding table, just to save on leaning over and down the other 99.9% of times I start the saw. It's too bad Hammer doesn't offer this as an extra-cost option.?


 

I agree, I would like to see an option for a sliding table switch for convenience if nothing else.

On Sun, May 30, 2021 at 8:26 AM df.stone via <df.stone=[email protected]> wrote:
I have a K3, and, as you've found and others have said, crosscutting wide panels that extend well right of the blade can necessitate crawling under the workpiece to access the start button. (I remember as a new owner being surprised the first time I encountered this reality, which ran counter to my newbie expectation/assumption that all such operations would be seamless on a sliding tablesaw.) ...It's interesting to read about how different people deal with this. Speaking as a hobbyist user, I don't find letting the saw run continuously is an option for me: my workspace is too tight to safely be loading or removing large panels around a powered blade. Of course, being a hobbyist, I'm not making these cuts--or any repetitive cuts--in any quantity anyway. So it's not a big issue to crawl under twice or three times to hit start, instead of just once, the few times a year this situation crops up. ...Notwithstanding what I just wrote, I personally would pay for the convenience of having a start switch on the sliding table, just to save on leaning over and down the other 99.9% of times I start the saw. It's too bad Hammer doesn't offer this as an extra-cost option.?

--
Kevin J. Wells


Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq.
 

On 5/30/21 2:29 PM, Elwin Kershaw wrote:
Does nobody not just use a long stick??

I tried that.? The long stick was never? handy? Damn thing? kept walking
off