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I just cut the first 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3, and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the plywood oriented with the 8’ length perpendicular to the saw blade (cutting into 3’ and 5’ lengths) I was set up and ready to make the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I can’t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or ?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so I don’t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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Hi Kevin,
I am not familiar with hammer but if interested, I am sure you can figure out something like I did.
Imran
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On May 28, 2021, at 12:41 AM, Kevin Wells <kjwells54@...> wrote: ?I just cut the first 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3, and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the plywood oriented with the 8’ length perpendicular to the saw blade (cutting into 3’ and 5’ lengths) I was set up and ready to make the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I can’t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or ?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so I don’t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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There's only one Power On switch on the Hammer, and it is indeed located on the "wrong" side of the blade.? If you're cutting a large sheet of plywood, or anything else that gets in the way of you leaning over the sliding table to turn on the saw, then your only option really is to crawl under the table as you said.? Walking around the front of the sliding table is also an option, but depending on the size of the piece you're trying to cut you might still have to crawl under the piece to get to the switch.? I don't do a whole lot of work with large plywood sheets, so 99% of the time I am able to just lean over the sliding table to turn on the saw.
There is technically a second Power Off switch on the side of course: the "emergency" stop switch, which I've only used a couple times.
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This is pretty common on most sliders, you turn the saw on first then load then cut. This is the way I did it for many years in my business and when I worked for others it is only with my ne k940 that I ponied up the $700ish for the on off on the end of slide which I never use…old habits die hard…
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On May 28, 2021, at 7:35 AM, Steve Wurster <steven.m.wurster@...> wrote:
?There's only one Power On switch on the Hammer, and it is indeed located on the "wrong" side of the blade.? If you're cutting a large sheet of plywood, or anything else that gets in the way of you leaning over the sliding table to turn on the saw, then your only option really is to crawl under the table as you said.? Walking around the front of the sliding table is also an option, but depending on the size of the piece you're trying to cut you might still have to crawl under the piece to get to the switch.? I don't do a whole lot of work with large plywood sheets, so 99% of the time I am able to just lean over the sliding table to turn on the saw.
There is technically a second Power Off switch on the side of course: the "emergency" stop switch, which I've only used a couple times.
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Common problem, solved many years ago by adding a pendant with start/stop buttons in it.
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I just cut the first 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3, and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the plywood oriented with the 8’ length perpendicular to the saw blade (cutting into 3’ and 5’ lengths) I was set up and ready to make the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I can’t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or ?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so I don’t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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Thanks Imran, I see that I am using the machine correctly and that a modification is needed to move the switch to a more convenient?location.?
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Thanks Mark, you have confirmed for me that I am using the saw properly. I am rebuilding my shop (original was lost in a 2017 California wildfire) and am building cabinets. I, too, don't normally work with sheet goods and the switch location, while not ideal, is workable for smaller furniture type parts.?
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Thanks Brian, this is very helpful. I apologize for rehashing an old subject. I will start with a search next time.?
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No problem, I just meant you aren’t the first to run into it. I did one on my machine days after I got it in 2001. Wish I had used a lighter coiled cord, but it’s still working 20 plus years later.
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Thanks Brian, this is very helpful. I apologize for rehashing an old subject. I will start with a search next time.?
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Leave the saw on ,,,simple. Designing and building for 50 years
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On May 28, 2021, at 9:23 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Common problem, solved many years ago by adding a pendant with start/stop buttons in it.
I just cut the first 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3, and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the plywood oriented with the 8’ length perpendicular to the saw blade (cutting into 3’ and 5’ lengths) I was set up and ready to make the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I can’t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or ?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so I don’t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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Kevin, my “solution” may not help enough in your situation since I do not work with sheets, only hardwood - as a result I do not have to duck under the board to get to the switch. In my case I wanted an easier on-off (especially off) switch. My solution was to build a simple hinged cover over the off button. While this focusses on the off switch, it also makes it easier to locate the on switch by feel.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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? HAHAHAHAHAHA?
STUPID? isn't it?
I got some strong solenoids and a power supply and? rigged up a
pendant on/off stitch that hangs from the? ceiling on a retracting
coiled cord.?? The hard part was finding solenoids string enough.
On 5/28/21 12:41 AM, Kevin Wells wrote:
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I just cut the first 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3,
and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the
plywood oriented with the 8’ length perpendicular to the saw blade
(cutting into 3’ and 5’ lengths) I was set up and ready to make
the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the
overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I
can’t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the
Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations
of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away
from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is
impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands
and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format
saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes
complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels
to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or
?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in
my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so
I don’t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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I tried that.? It? gave me? the willies? when the? stock? came close to
the blade before I was ready
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On 5/28/21 7:43 AM, Mark Kessler wrote: you turn the saw on first then load then cut.
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In all fairness I can see where it can be an issue, back in the day the saw would go on at 6am and I could be there until noon busting up panels - turning off was not usually an option, now that I just do ww for the hell of it it is more of an off/on kinda thing and I don’t do many full sheets. ?The past two that I did I totally forgot I had the on/off on the end of slide …duh…
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On May 29, 2021, at 12:06 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
ready
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Thanks Derek, I had a similar set up on my cabinet saw and I liked it as I could turn the saw off with my hip/thigh if needed. With your idea this wouldn't?be possible but in an emergency it would be a big advantage to have a large target such as yours to aim for. I will probably copy your idea.
Kevin, my “solution” may not help enough in your situation since I do not work with sheets, only hardwood - as a result I do not have to duck under the board to get to the switch. In my case I wanted an easier on-off (especially off) switch. My solution was to build a simple hinged cover over the off button. While this focusses on the off switch, it also makes it easier to locate the on switch by feel.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Ahhh, solenoids. Do you use the solenoid shaft to push the button?
On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 9:05 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
? HAHAHAHAHAHA?
STUPID? isn't it?
I got some strong solenoids and a power supply and? rigged up a
pendant on/off stitch that hangs from the? ceiling on a retracting
coiled cord.?? The hard part was finding solenoids string enough.
On 5/28/21 12:41 AM, Kevin Wells wrote:
I just cut the first 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3,
and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the
plywood oriented with the 8’ length perpendicular to the saw blade
(cutting into 3’ and 5’ lengths) I was set up and ready to make
the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the
overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I
can’t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the
Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations
of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away
from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is
impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands
and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format
saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes
complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels
to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or
?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in
my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so
I don’t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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Hi Brian, I believe you hit the nail on the head,?leaving the saw on is probably what the machine's designers had in mind and it makes sense especially when in a production environment. I may evolve to this as I become more comfortable with using the slider (all of my previous saws were cabinet type).?
On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 12:45 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Leave the saw on ,,,simple. Designing and building for 50 years On May 28, 2021, at 9:23 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?Common problem, solved many years ago by adding a pendant with start/stop buttons in it.
I just cut the first 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3, and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the plywood oriented with the 8’ length perpendicular to the saw blade (cutting into 3’ and 5’ lengths) I was set up and ready to make the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I can’t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or ?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so I don’t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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I'd get a hunk of plywood on the machine and then I'd be? on my
hands and knees (cussing up a storm) turning the machine on.? I
was? incredulous that they did that.? The Hammer doesn't have an 9
foot slider. Handling full size sheet goods can be trippy.
? Don't get? me going on the hammer rip Fence. I had to make my
own.? It's way better.? the factory one just fell into pieces
The slider is pretty good though.
On 5/29/21 12:30 AM, Mark Kessler
wrote:
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In all fairness I can see where it can be an issue, back in the
day the saw would go on at 6am and I could be there until noon
busting up panels - turning off was not usually an option, now
that I just do ww for the hell of it it is more of an off/on kinda
thing and I don’t do many full sheets. ?The past two that I did I
totally forgot I had the on/off on the end of slide …duh…
ready
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I have a K3, and, as you've found and others have said, crosscutting wide panels that extend well right of the blade can necessitate crawling under the workpiece to access the start button. (I remember as a new owner being surprised the first time I encountered this reality, which ran counter to my newbie expectation/assumption that all such operations would be seamless on a sliding tablesaw.) ...It's interesting to read about how different people deal with this. Speaking as a hobbyist user, I don't find letting the saw run continuously is an option for me: my workspace is too tight to safely be loading or removing large panels around a powered blade. Of course, being a hobbyist, I'm not making these cuts--or any repetitive cuts--in any quantity anyway. So it's not a big issue to crawl under twice or three times to hit start, instead of just once, the few times a year this situation crops up. ...Notwithstanding what I just wrote, I personally would pay for the convenience of having a start switch on the sliding table, just to save on leaning over and down the other 99.9% of times I start the saw. It's too bad Hammer doesn't offer this as an extra-cost option.?
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Crawled once then used a broomstick followed up with a decent length of conduit still going strong today.
It's too bad Hammer doesn't offer this as an extra-cost option.
I wouldn't even want to know how much
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Kevin Wells
imran