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I purchased a Hammer J/P about 6 months ago now. I am pretty happy with the purchase so far except I can't seem to get the machine to not produce any snipe, which I am confident is possible on account of other owners.?
I have checked that the table is aligned with the cutter head, I have kept my planer table clean and well waxed. I have checked that the indeef and outfeed rollers are aligned within spec and I have endlessly fiddled with the roller tension adjustment.
I thought I had it pretty close for a bit when I was milling up a ton of Elm. Mixed results on the infeed end (mostly just slightly feel it but could not see it) but no snipe on the outfeed.?
I just started milling some White Oak the other day and it seems to be right back to where I started with very noticable (visually ) snipe on both indeed and outfeed. I'm not really sure what else I can do, is there something I'm missing here??
Any advice is much appreciated , happy Sunday!
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Toni,
this may not help but have you tried supporting material on the infeed and outfeed? just yesterday, i was getting a snipe on the trailing end of the boards. then i realized that i was feeding on the near side and my outfeed extension table was on the far side. moved the table and got rid of the snipe.
imran
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On Oct 4, 2020, at 8:41 PM, Toni <spizzirri.antoni@...> wrote: ?I purchased a Hammer J/P about 6 months ago now. I am pretty happy with the purchase so far except I can't seem to get the machine to not produce any snipe, which I am confident is possible on account of other owners.?
I have checked that the table is aligned with the cutter head, I have kept my planer table clean and well waxed. I have checked that the indeef and outfeed rollers are aligned within spec and I have endlessly fiddled with the roller tension adjustment.
I thought I had it pretty close for a bit when I was milling up a ton of Elm. Mixed results on the infeed end (mostly just slightly feel it but could not see it) but no snipe on the outfeed.?
I just started milling some White Oak the other day and it seems to be right back to where I started with very noticable (visually ) snipe on both indeed and outfeed. I'm not really sure what else I can do, is there something I'm missing here??
Any advice is much appreciated , happy Sunday!
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this is probably a silly recommendation?because?im sure you have already tried it, but the table will have play in it allowing snipe unless it is locked after each height adjustment. Have you locked the table in before attempting to run a board through?
On Sun, Oct 4, 2020 at 6:01 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Toni,
this may not help but have you tried supporting material on the infeed and outfeed? just yesterday, i was getting a snipe on the trailing end of the boards. then i realized that i was feeding on the near side and my outfeed extension table was on the far side. moved the table and got rid of the snipe.
imran ?I purchased a Hammer J/P about 6 months ago now. I am pretty happy with the purchase so far except I can't seem to get the machine to not produce any snipe, which I am confident is possible on account of other owners.?
I have checked that the table is aligned with the cutter head, I have kept my planer table clean and well waxed. I have checked that the indeef and outfeed rollers are aligned within spec and I have endlessly fiddled with the roller tension adjustment.
I thought I had it pretty close for a bit when I was milling up a ton of Elm. Mixed results on the infeed end (mostly just slightly feel it but could not see it) but no snipe on the outfeed.?
I just started milling some White Oak the other day and it seems to be right back to where I started with very noticable (visually ) snipe on both indeed and outfeed. I'm not really sure what else I can do, is there something I'm missing here??
Any advice is much appreciated , happy Sunday!
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Yes I always support my material on both ends, no change!
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Brain , yes I lock the table before every pass. This doesn't seem to help much either?
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I can get snipe when (a)? the table? is not locked or (b)?
sometimes the board needs? to be supported as it's feeding in.
When feeding in a longer piece can manifest an imperceptible? up
and down wobble. ? The? large moment arm can generate immense
force? in the short span after the first roller driving the work
up into the cutters. ERGO snipe. ? In my shop my floor is
irregular so If I put an outboard support up for? the machine
infeed I can not be certain of? the best alignment.? But in spite
of this? it still eliiminates the snipe because I'm snubbing?
motion? out where a little force accomplishes a lot.?
On 10/4/20 8:41 PM, Toni wrote:
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I purchased a Hammer J/P about 6 months ago now. I am pretty happy
with the purchase so far except I can't seem to get the machine to
not produce any snipe, which I am confident is possible on account
of other owners.?
I have checked that the table is aligned with the cutter head, I
have kept my planer table clean and well waxed. I have checked
that the indeef and outfeed rollers are aligned within spec and I
have endlessly fiddled with the roller tension adjustment.
I thought I had it pretty close for a bit when I was milling up a
ton of Elm. Mixed results on the infeed end (mostly just slightly
feel it but could not see it) but no snipe on the outfeed.?
I just started milling some White Oak the other day and it seems
to be right back to where I started with very noticable (visually
) snipe on both indeed and outfeed. I'm not really sure what else
I can do, is there something I'm missing here??
Any advice is much appreciated , happy Sunday!
|
Hey Cliff,
I always support my boards as the are fed through and exiting the planer. This doesn't seem to resolve the snipe I am getting. Thanks for your input?
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Sorry that didn't help.?? Maybe try looking for anything that
might not be bolted firmly. Snipe is the result of movement.? It
can be less than obvious? where the movement? originates.? Maybe
take the sheet metal off the sides of the cutter head and check
the bolts holding things in place.? Also? look to the table lock
make sure it is really locking the table.??
On 10/5/20 9:43 AM, Toni wrote:
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Hey Cliff,
I always support my boards as the are fed through and exiting the
planer. This doesn't seem to resolve the snipe I am getting.
Thanks for your input?
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My first J/P was a 2008 A3-31 and the manual had a good section on how to adjust for planer snipe. I don't know if this is still in the newer manuals and I have long since upgraded. Perhaps if someone has one of the older manuals they could post the adjustments section.
On Mon, Oct 5, 2020 at 12:28 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
Sorry that didn't help.?? Maybe try looking for anything that
might not be bolted firmly. Snipe is the result of movement.? It
can be less than obvious? where the movement? originates.? Maybe
take the sheet metal off the sides of the cutter head and check
the bolts holding things in place.? Also? look to the table lock
make sure it is really locking the table.??
On 10/5/20 9:43 AM, Toni wrote:
Hey Cliff,
I always support my boards as the are fed through and exiting the
planer. This doesn't seem to resolve the snipe I am getting.
Thanks for your input?
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I'll have a look, thanks again Cliff
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Hey Marlowe ,
I have fiddled with the spring tension endlessly, I'm not sure what else I could about the tension at this point.?
Thanks?
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On 10/5/20 12:43 PM, "jmkserv@... wrote: and the manual I got no manual? no instruction? no set up information absolutely? nothing at all for my saw or my JP. I chalked it up to them wanting? the customer to pay for a tech to do it all.
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I have an older A3-31, and if I do not keep the planer bed waxed, I get ¡°grabbing¡± and snipe in the infeed. ?I don¡¯t know if this will help on the out feed. ?I use Johnson furniture wax to lubricate the jointer and planer beds.
-David
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?a tad off topic but I feel a need to mention it.
I used to use Johnson¡¯s paste wax to lubricate my machine tables, and had persistent problems w/ fish eye downstream when finishing pieces. I eventually decided that Johnson¡¯s must have silicone of some sort in it, so I ?cleaned all my tools w/ mineral spirits and switched to a wax that was guaranteed silicone free. I haven¡¯t had problems w/ fish eye since.
Anyone else w/ similar experiences?
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What is the name of the wax guaranteed not to have silicone?
Marlowe?
?a tad off topic but I feel a need to mention it.
I used to use Johnson¡¯s paste wax to lubricate my machine tables, and had persistent problems w/ fish eye downstream when finishing pieces. I eventually decided that Johnson¡¯s must have silicone of some sort in it, so I ?cleaned all my tools w/ mineral spirits and switched to a wax that was guaranteed silicone free. I haven¡¯t had problems w/ fish eye since.
Anyone else w/ similar experiences?
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I use Butchers Bowling Alley Wax that was available @ Home Depot. Its super slick and no Silicone.??
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It must be good...it's "
made from a hundred-year-old formula? " Dave Davies
On Thu, Oct 8, 2020 at 6:33 AM auto_bodytech < rhorton@...> wrote: I use Butchers Bowling Alley Wax that was available @ Home Depot. Its super slick and no Silicone.??
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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imran
Brian Turner