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Dear all, I recently upgraded my KF500 with a custom build overhead guard. Unfortunately, Felder does not offer an overhead guard?for the KF500?as the chassis has a small extrusion where the guard is usually mounted. This is required for the shaper unit to be tiltable. On the other hand, the K500/K700 overhead guard is not exactly a cheap add-on, whereas all the parts for this contraption, including the hood, where about �200. The dust hood was 3D printed by a . I used standard 45x90mm aluminium profiles for mounting the hood to the ceiling and for height adjustment. I still need to replace the little star knob with a proper lever, but other than that it is fairly comfortable and sufficiently sturdy.?The whole construction works really well and is fairly simple to build. I can post detailed photos if someone is interested.? Best, Michael   
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Whoa! That is very nice. Where do you get the aluminum extrusion? I like my Euro style guard but if for some reason I have to remove the riving knife there is no place to mount it, so I have been thinking of doing something like this.
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Thanks! Here in Germany there are quite a few online shops selling these aluminium profiles and accessories, cut to length and not very expensive. Specifically, I ordered at??and?. The ones I got are "45 B-Type Nut 10".
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This is really spectacular Michael. I like seeing a professional alternative, rather than a “make do with it” version. I can see that you have plenty of vertical adjustment when working with thick stock. Do you also have a way of moving the guard completely away from the line of cut, so that you can place timber in a vertical direction and make end-grain cuts? I do this for dovetails and box joints on the saw, one-off end-grain bevels, etc.
What diameter is your flex? It looks healthy. I bet that guard does a great job in getting rid of the finest dust that is the killer. Thanks for sharing.
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Dear all,
I recently upgraded my KF500 with a custom build overhead guard. Unfortunately, Felder does not offer an overhead guard?for the KF500?as the chassis has a small extrusion where the guard is usually mounted. This is required for the shaper unit to be tiltable. On the other hand, the K500/K700 overhead guard is not exactly a cheap add-on, whereas all the parts for this contraption, including the hood, where about �200.
The dust hood was 3D printed by a . I used standard 45x90mm aluminium profiles for mounting the hood to the ceiling and for height adjustment. I still need to replace the little star knob with a proper lever, but other than that it is fairly comfortable and sufficiently sturdy.?The whole construction works really well and is fairly simple to build. I can post detailed photos if someone is interested.?
Best,
Michael
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Thanks, Lucky! If fully moved up, there is about 30cm clearance below the hood. In principle, one could increase this by another 10-20cm by shortening the aluminium bars, without loosing sturdiness. The arm can also be tilted out of the way towards the ceiling. I still have to mount some kind of bracket to the ceiling, though, as the whole thing is too heavy to be held just by the hinge. There is practically no flex in forward-backward direction and about half an inch from left to right due to the hinge which holds the arm at the ceiling. I may have an idea for eliminating that, but anyhow the hood is large enough that there is not much danger of pushing it into the blade. Best, Michael  
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Hi Michael:
Exactly what I had hoped — that you could swing it out of the way completely. The fact that you have 30cm of clearance is not to be sneezed at. I don’t know if you have Mac’s clamps or not — you should buy them ASAP if you don't — but I often have to swing away my Kappa 400 guard simply because I want to position Mac’s clamps in really close, and the Felder guard does not have enough travel to lift up out of the way. Your set-up is great.
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Thanks, Lucky!
If fully moved up, there is about 30cm clearance below the hood. In principle, one could increase this by another 10-20cm by shortening the aluminium bars, without loosing sturdiness. The arm can also be tilted out of the way towards the ceiling. I still have to mount some kind of bracket to the ceiling, though, as the whole thing is too heavy to be held just by the hinge.
There is practically no flex in forward-backward direction and about half an inch from left to right due to the hinge which holds the arm at the ceiling. I may have an idea for eliminating that, but anyhow the hood is large enough that there is not much danger of pushing it into the blade.
Best,
Michael
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Michael, that's a beautiful design!? I've been modeling something for my Hammer C3 that's similar, but I may need to incorporate some of your ideas.??
Joe Kurtz, there are several places to buy extrusions here in the states.? McMaster Carr is a good choice, and also F and L 8020.? I'm sure there are others.
Here are a few images of what I've been designing for mine. The issue for me is that I needed this to be able to move forward & backward as well as side to side about 20 inches each way, so I've designed a track into it.? I also am considering suspending the entire system from a yet-to-be made overhead cabinet where I can keep all the things I need for the saw (blades, tooling, etc).?
Thanks for sharing, and for the inspiration!
Bob Card
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Lucky,
I am in the process of upgrading my machines to make them more comfortable and safer to use.?I do not yet have Mac's clamps, but they are on my list of machine upgrades planned for the near to mid-term future. I recently added
- short parallel fence (as the standard one tends to flip over when used as stop fence close to the blade)
- proper hand wheels (as the standard ones always fall off)
- full surface support insert for the outrigger (what an annoyance without)
- remote start/stop switch
- overhead guard
- planer outfeed extension for the A3-31
- cartridge dust filter for the AF-16
All of these make life so much more enjoyable, but I still need to add
- Mac's clamps
- power feeder for the shaper
- Aigner jointer fence for small parts
The KF500 is not quite as comfortable as a Kappa 400, but it is the largest machine I can get down into my basement. So there it no other option than some good old-fashioned DIY upgrades.
All the best,
Michael
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Bob,
Thanks a lot! Your design is interesting as well. If you can omit the hinge at the ceiling and fix the arm at your platform, that could be quite advantageous for reducing flex. The hinge at the top seems to be the biggest source for that.
I will probably add another support between the bar at the ceiling and the arm. Although there is almost no flex in forward-backward direction, if you bump into the hood or the arm with a piece of wood, it is likely to slip back and push the hood into the blade. That would be quite unfortunate...
Best regards,
Michael
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Nice!
I see you listed the Aigner jointer fence on your wish list. Do you have other Aigner accessories? I ask because there’s quite a bit on the list that you might prefer to have… pressure modules (p- and f-channel), clamp strip, contermax, bowmouldmaster, integral (shaper) fence plates, but you may have some or all of these already.
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Lucky,
I am in the process of upgrading my machines to make them more comfortable and safer to use.?I do not yet have Mac's clamps, but they are on my list of machine upgrades planned for the near to mid-term future. I recently added
- short parallel fence (as the standard one tends to flip over when used as stop fence close to the blade)
- proper hand wheels (as the standard ones always fall off)
- full surface support insert for the outrigger (what an annoyance without)
- remote start/stop switch
- overhead guard
- planer outfeed extension for the A3-31
- cartridge dust filter for the AF-16
All of these make life so much more enjoyable, but I still need to add
- Mac's clamps
- power feeder for the shaper
- Aigner jointer fence for small parts
The KF500 is not quite as comfortable as a Kappa 400, but it is the largest machine I can get down into my basement. So there it no other option than some good old-fashioned DIY upgrades.
All the best,
Michael
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Lucky,
Oh yes! Pretty much all of these are on the wish-list, but more in the mid-term section. The items I listed are the ones in the near-term section :o).
Best,
Michael
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Michael - Thanks for that feedback.? I've been concerned about the potential for too much flexing in the hood. So your feedback is right on point.
Cheers,
Bob
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Michael,? nicely done, as the whole shop appears to be. WRT Lucky's comment on Z - axis ( cutting into endgrain on longer pieces) I was having a far too large scrap rate- then I got the Rangate saw blade for my shaper and, Mac- clamped to the slider, it's far more accurate and repeatable. Only downside is depth of cut. BR Eric
On Wed, Jul 21, 2021, 07:06 Bob Card < bob@...> wrote: Michael - Thanks for that feedback.? I've been concerned about the potential for too much flexing in the hood. So your feedback is right on point.
Cheers,
Bob
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Eric, I was thinking about something similar. I am currently using a simple jig for cutting tenons (and also for resawing on the table saw). It is not exactly dead on accurate, but at least for larger tenons it does the job well enough.?I was looking into getting a large groove cutter, in order to cut tenons on the shaper instead, but I hardly couldn't find anything with enough depth of cut and fixed width. There are 250mm groove cutters with 100mm depth of cut but variable width and thus rather expensive. Which is the Rangate blade you are referring to? My shop is a bit on the small side, with about 21m2/230sqft. I attached a few photos. I just moved around some stuff, the A3 switched places with the table, so the hand tools appear a bit displaced. Next steps are to build a proper work bench and to get an HS-950 and a band saw. Right now the kids got a better workbench than I do :o). Best, Michael      
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David Luckensmeyer
