|
Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK
|
Yes, I have one, my shop is 685 sq feet and I am a hobbiest. I think it is the perfect machine for me. Sure a separate would be nice but I do not have room and the budget point for a saw/shaper is nicer than separates.?
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Show quoted text
Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK
|
Mark,
Thanks for the input!? What combo do you own?
PK
|
I just purchased a CF531 and have now had it for a couple weeks. I replaced a 52” SawStop cabinet saw. I also previously had a A3/31 jointer/planer. The reason for my change was that I got a CNC machine with a 4’ x 8’ table and have moved
to doing my large sheet processing on the CNC router instead of the table saw. I wanted to reclaim some space.
?
I debated on the Hammer C3 and also just a saw shaper but ended up getting the CF531 for the nicer XRoll table and the tilting shaper. I got the full combo instead of just a saw shaper because the extra jointer/planer function was only
about $2K more than the saw shaper version and also provided some more table surface area.
?
I’m not very far into the machine and this is my first sliding saw, but here are a few initial thoughts:
?
- Felder recommends way more operating clearance around the machine than I (and probably most people have). Because of that, I can’t always put my kept piece of wood to the left of the
blade to use the material stops – e.g. if I wanted to cut a 10” piece off a full sheet I would need 86” right of the blade for clearance, which I don’t have (I actually don’t have it left of the blade either – I would probably do that cut with either the track
saw or the CNC router.
- The CF531 slider is perfect for 5’ x 5’ plywood sheets.
- There are some operations that are harder [for me] to do the slider way and therefore I use conventional saw techniques – ripping boards longer than 6’, or combination techniques –
using the fence to put the kept piece of wood to the right of the blade but still using the sliding table to maneuver the rest of the sheet
- The hole in the table between the saw section and the J/P section is mildly annoying to work around – if you want to set the fence at 18” you’re doing it with a tape measure rather
than the fence scale. This is a minor nuisance only.
- If you can plan your project where you do your operations in order, then the combination machine is totally functional. If you do a bunch of one-off things where you bounce between
saw and planer especially, the changeovers get annoying fast.
- There are a ton of options that take a lot of time to sort through. If you decide to order one, do your homework to figure out what you need and what the choices are. I had probably
30 hours of research and 4 hours of phone calls with my sales rep.
?
At this point, I think I’m going to keep my A3/31 J/P along with the CF531. The way my shop is laid out I will probably do most of the jointing on the CF531 and planning on the A3/31, but could swap that around depending on the needs of
the job in hand.
?
Short version – if you have a 10,000 sq ft shop and a rich benefactor, then a combo machine is not for you. If you have limited space like I have and your projects are usually on the smaller side, especially if you can plan all of your
construction steps to minimize tool changes, then the combo machine is probably fine.
?
Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK
|
Rule 1 with a combi. ?Always, but always rip, plane and thickness an extra length or two. ?DAMHIKT.
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Show quoted text
On 17 Aug 2020, at 22:02, TJ Cornish < tj@...> wrote:
I just purchased a CF531 and have now had it for a couple weeks. I replaced a 52” SawStop cabinet saw. I also previously had a A3/31 jointer/planer. The reason for my change was that I got a CNC machine with a 4’ x 8’ table and have moved to doing my large sheet processing on the CNC router instead of the table saw. I wanted to reclaim some space. ? I debated on the Hammer C3 and also just a saw shaper but ended up getting the CF531 for the nicer XRoll table and the tilting shaper. I got the full combo instead of just a saw shaper because the extra jointer/planer function was only about $2K more than the saw shaper version and also provided some more table surface area. ? I’m not very far into the machine and this is my first sliding saw, but here are a few initial thoughts: ? - Felder recommends way more operating clearance around the machine than I (and probably most people have). Because of that, I can’t always put my kept piece of wood to the left of the blade to use the material stops – e.g. if I wanted to cut a 10” piece off a full sheet I would need 86” right of the blade for clearance, which I don’t have (I actually don’t have it left of the blade either – I would probably do that cut with either the track saw or the CNC router.
- The CF531 slider is perfect for 5’ x 5’ plywood sheets.
- There are some operations that are harder [for me] to do the slider way and therefore I use conventional saw techniques – ripping boards longer than 6’, or combination techniques – using the fence to put the kept piece of wood to the right of the blade but still using the sliding table to maneuver the rest of the sheet
- The hole in the table between the saw section and the J/P section is mildly annoying to work around – if you want to set the fence at 18” you’re doing it with a tape measure rather than the fence scale. This is a minor nuisance only.
- If you can plan your project where you do your operations in order, then the combination machine is totally functional. If you do a bunch of one-off things where you bounce between saw and planer especially, the changeovers get annoying fast.
- There are a ton of options that take a lot of time to sort through. If you decide to order one, do your homework to figure out what you need and what the choices are. I had probably 30 hours of research and 4 hours of phone calls with my sales rep.
? At this point, I think I’m going to keep my A3/31 J/P along with the CF531. The way my shop is laid out I will probably do most of the jointing on the CF531 and planning on the A3/31, but could swap that around depending on the needs of the job in hand. ? Short version – if you have a 10,000 sq ft shop and a rich benefactor, then a combo machine is not for you. If you have limited space like I have and your projects are usually on the smaller side, especially if you can plan all of your construction steps to minimize tool changes, then the combo machine is probably fine. ? Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK?
|
TJ,
“Felder recommends way more operating clearance around the machine than I (and probably most people have). Because of that, I can’t always put my kept piece of wood to the left of the blade to use the material stops – e.g. if I wanted to cut a 10” piece off a full sheet I would need 86” right of the blade for clearance, which I don’t have (I actually don’t have it left of the blade either”
if i understand your concern above it is not a felder machine issue rather the space you have for the machine. correct?
imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote: ?
I just purchased a CF531 and have now had it for a couple weeks. I replaced a 52” SawStop cabinet saw. I also previously had a A3/31 jointer/planer. The reason for my change was that I got a CNC machine with a 4’ x 8’ table and have moved
to doing my large sheet processing on the CNC router instead of the table saw. I wanted to reclaim some space.
?
I debated on the Hammer C3 and also just a saw shaper but ended up getting the CF531 for the nicer XRoll table and the tilting shaper. I got the full combo instead of just a saw shaper because the extra jointer/planer function was only
about $2K more than the saw shaper version and also provided some more table surface area.
?
I’m not very far into the machine and this is my first sliding saw, but here are a few initial thoughts:
?
- Felder recommends way more operating clearance around the machine than I (and probably most people have). Because of that, I can’t always put my kept piece of wood to the left of the
blade to use the material stops – e.g. if I wanted to cut a 10” piece off a full sheet I would need 86” right of the blade for clearance, which I don’t have (I actually don’t have it left of the blade either – I would probably do that cut with either the track
saw or the CNC router.
- The CF531 slider is perfect for 5’ x 5’ plywood sheets.
- There are some operations that are harder [for me] to do the slider way and therefore I use conventional saw techniques – ripping boards longer than 6’, or combination techniques –
using the fence to put the kept piece of wood to the right of the blade but still using the sliding table to maneuver the rest of the sheet
- The hole in the table between the saw section and the J/P section is mildly annoying to work around – if you want to set the fence at 18” you’re doing it with a tape measure rather
than the fence scale. This is a minor nuisance only.
- If you can plan your project where you do your operations in order, then the combination machine is totally functional. If you do a bunch of one-off things where you bounce between
saw and planer especially, the changeovers get annoying fast.
- There are a ton of options that take a lot of time to sort through. If you decide to order one, do your homework to figure out what you need and what the choices are. I had probably
30 hours of research and 4 hours of phone calls with my sales rep.
?
At this point, I think I’m going to keep my A3/31 J/P along with the CF531. The way my shop is laid out I will probably do most of the jointing on the CF531 and planning on the A3/31, but could swap that around depending on the needs of
the job in hand.
?
Short version – if you have a 10,000 sq ft shop and a rich benefactor, then a combo machine is not for you. If you have limited space like I have and your projects are usually on the smaller side, especially if you can plan all of your
construction steps to minimize tool changes, then the combo machine is probably fine.
?
Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK
|
PK was asking for experiences of combination machine owners, and as I’m a recent convert, I thought my observations about workflow in general might be helpful since I’m keenly aware of differences compared to how I used to do things. You
are right – it’s not Felder’s fault that plywood is 8’ long, but in a conventional table saw your kept piece is typically against the fence and right of the blade, where with the slider, the stop is left of the blade, meaning if you want to avoid the math
of subtracting the blade thickness and kept portion of the wood, the kept piece needs to be left of the blade. It’s not necessarily better or worse, but it is a pretty different workflow with some space impact, at least for me.
?
BTW, my shop is 22’ x 32’ and my CF can use about 18’ along the table axis (total distance including infeed and outfeed) and maybe about 13’ of width. If I would have gotten the full-blown 10’ slider in a CF741 – something that a lot of
folks here recommend to be able to rip 8’ on the table, I would have lost close to 8’ worth of space in length, which in a shop that’s only 32’ on the long wall would have been a challenging sacrifice.
?
“Felder recommends way more operating clearance around the machine than I (and probably most people have). Because of that, I can’t always put my kept piece of wood to the left of the blade to
use the material stops – e.g. if I wanted to cut a 10” piece off a full sheet I would need 86” right of the blade for clearance, which I don’t have (I actually don’t have it left of the blade either”
if i understand your concern above it is not a felder machine issue rather the space you have for the machine. correct?
On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
?
I just purchased a CF531 and have now had it for a couple weeks. I replaced a 52” SawStop cabinet saw. I also previously had a A3/31 jointer/planer. The reason for my change was that I got a CNC machine with a 4’ x 8’ table and have moved
to doing my large sheet processing on the CNC router instead of the table saw. I wanted to reclaim some space.
?
I debated on the Hammer C3 and also just a saw shaper but ended up getting the CF531 for the nicer XRoll table and the tilting shaper. I got the full combo instead of just a saw shaper because the extra jointer/planer function was only
about $2K more than the saw shaper version and also provided some more table surface area.
?
I’m not very far into the machine and this is my first sliding saw, but here are a few initial thoughts:
?
- Felder recommends way more operating clearance around the machine than I (and probably most people have). Because of that, I can’t always put my kept piece of wood to the left of the
blade to use the material stops – e.g. if I wanted to cut a 10” piece off a full sheet I would need 86” right of the blade for clearance, which I don’t have (I actually don’t have it left of the blade either – I would probably do that cut with either the track
saw or the CNC router.
- The CF531 slider is perfect for 5’ x 5’ plywood sheets.
- There are some operations that are harder [for me] to do the slider way and therefore I use conventional saw techniques – ripping boards longer than 6’, or combination techniques –
using the fence to put the kept piece of wood to the right of the blade but still using the sliding table to maneuver the rest of the sheet
- The hole in the table between the saw section and the J/P section is mildly annoying to work around – if you want to set the fence at 18” you’re doing it with a tape measure rather
than the fence scale. This is a minor nuisance only.
- If you can plan your project where you do your operations in order, then the combination machine is totally functional. If you do a bunch of one-off things where you bounce between
saw and planer especially, the changeovers get annoying fast.
- There are a ton of options that take a lot of time to sort through. If you decide to order one, do your homework to figure out what you need and what the choices are. I had probably
30 hours of research and 4 hours of phone calls with my sales rep.
?
At this point, I think I’m going to keep my A3/31 J/P along with the CF531. The way my shop is laid out I will probably do most of the jointing on the CF531 and planning on the A3/31, but could swap that around depending on the needs of
the job in hand.
?
Short version – if you have a 10,000 sq ft shop and a rich benefactor, then a combo machine is not for you. If you have limited space like I have and your projects are usually on the smaller side, especially if you can plan all of your
construction steps to minimize tool changes, then the combo machine is probably fine.
?
Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK
|
PK,
i am a hobby WW as well and started with KF700SP with 2m slider. that was fine when i was otherwise employed and worked small projects. few yrs before retirement my workload at real job settled and i started spending more time in the shop and i realized the limitation of the saw shaper.
i sold my separate Jointer and planer and got a felder combo J/P. i find that considerably more palatable than saw/shaper. for one you are not removing things and putting them elsewhere like a shaper hood and various hold downs. secondly a DRO on planer allows you to go back to previous setting.
then i got a felder saw and now my KF serves as a shaper. if space and funds do not allow it is an easy call. i rather have a saw/shaper vs saw only. also, as others have pointed out, if you projects are small and you are not working on multiple things KF will be fine also.
imran
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On Aug 17, 2020, at 4:32 PM, PK <paul.kellymjc@...> wrote: ?Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK
|
TJ,
i am glad you shared that detail. i just wanted to be sure i understood your concern correctly. yes, since an 8’ piece of ply can be xcut on a slider (which one cannot do on a conventional saw) it does require more physical space to do so.
with overhead saw guard on my K975 the material to the right of the blade if longer than ~50” can be only ~18” wide. i believe my cast iron table is 36” deep.
imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:26 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote: ?
PK was asking for experiences of combination machine owners, and as I’m a recent convert, I thought my observations about workflow in general might be helpful since I’m keenly aware of differences compared to how I used to do things. You
are right – it’s not Felder’s fault that plywood is 8’ long, but in a conventional table saw your kept piece is typically against the fence and right of the blade, where with the slider, the stop is left of the blade, meaning if you want to avoid the math
of subtracting the blade thickness and kept portion of the wood, the kept piece needs to be left of the blade. It’s not necessarily better or worse, but it is a pretty different workflow with some space impact, at least for me.
?
BTW, my shop is 22’ x 32’ and my CF can use about 18’ along the table axis (total distance including infeed and outfeed) and maybe about 13’ of width. If I would have gotten the full-blown 10’ slider in a CF741 – something that a lot of
folks here recommend to be able to rip 8’ on the table, I would have lost close to 8’ worth of space in length, which in a shop that’s only 32’ on the long wall would have been a challenging sacrifice.
?
“Felder recommends way more operating clearance around the machine than I (and probably most people have). Because of that, I can’t always put my kept piece of wood to the left of the blade to
use the material stops – e.g. if I wanted to cut a 10” piece off a full sheet I would need 86” right of the blade for clearance, which I don’t have (I actually don’t have it left of the blade either”
if i understand your concern above it is not a felder machine issue rather the space you have for the machine. correct?
On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
?
I just purchased a CF531 and have now had it for a couple weeks. I replaced a 52” SawStop cabinet saw. I also previously had a A3/31 jointer/planer. The reason for my change was that I got a CNC machine with a 4’ x 8’ table and have moved
to doing my large sheet processing on the CNC router instead of the table saw. I wanted to reclaim some space.
?
I debated on the Hammer C3 and also just a saw shaper but ended up getting the CF531 for the nicer XRoll table and the tilting shaper. I got the full combo instead of just a saw shaper because the extra jointer/planer function was only
about $2K more than the saw shaper version and also provided some more table surface area.
?
I’m not very far into the machine and this is my first sliding saw, but here are a few initial thoughts:
?
- Felder recommends way more operating clearance around the machine than I (and probably most people have). Because of that, I can’t always put my kept piece of wood to the left of the
blade to use the material stops – e.g. if I wanted to cut a 10” piece off a full sheet I would need 86” right of the blade for clearance, which I don’t have (I actually don’t have it left of the blade either – I would probably do that cut with either the track
saw or the CNC router.
- The CF531 slider is perfect for 5’ x 5’ plywood sheets.
- There are some operations that are harder [for me] to do the slider way and therefore I use conventional saw techniques – ripping boards longer than 6’, or combination techniques –
using the fence to put the kept piece of wood to the right of the blade but still using the sliding table to maneuver the rest of the sheet
- The hole in the table between the saw section and the J/P section is mildly annoying to work around – if you want to set the fence at 18” you’re doing it with a tape measure rather
than the fence scale. This is a minor nuisance only.
- If you can plan your project where you do your operations in order, then the combination machine is totally functional. If you do a bunch of one-off things where you bounce between
saw and planer especially, the changeovers get annoying fast.
- There are a ton of options that take a lot of time to sort through. If you decide to order one, do your homework to figure out what you need and what the choices are. I had probably
30 hours of research and 4 hours of phone calls with my sales rep.
?
At this point, I think I’m going to keep my A3/31 J/P along with the CF531. The way my shop is laid out I will probably do most of the jointing on the CF531 and planning on the A3/31, but could swap that around depending on the needs of
the job in hand.
?
Short version – if you have a 10,000 sq ft shop and a rich benefactor, then a combo machine is not for you. If you have limited space like I have and your projects are usually on the smaller side, especially if you can plan all of your
construction steps to minimize tool changes, then the combo machine is probably fine.
?
Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK
|
No worries. I’ve been a part of the FOG for only about 60 days and I’ve learned a lot. Due to the wide breadth of applications here, it is often necessary to sort out the full-timers where the capital cost of large and expensive machines
and space to put them in makes sense in terms of labor savings, from the DIYers that bought into Hammer/Felder because they enjoy nice tools but have different expectations and make different cost/benefit decisions.
?
i am glad you shared that detail. i just wanted to be sure i understood your concern correctly. yes, since an 8’ piece of ply can be xcut on a slider (which one cannot do on a conventional saw) it does require more physical space to do
so.
with overhead saw guard on my K975 the material to the right of the blade if longer than ~50” can be only ~18” wide. i believe my cast iron table is 36” deep.
On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:26 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
?
PK was asking for experiences of combination machine owners, and as I’m a recent convert, I thought my observations about workflow in general might be helpful since I’m keenly aware of differences compared to how I used to do things. You
are right – it’s not Felder’s fault that plywood is 8’ long, but in a conventional table saw your kept piece is typically against the fence and right of the blade, where with the slider, the stop is left of the blade, meaning if you want to avoid the math
of subtracting the blade thickness and kept portion of the wood, the kept piece needs to be left of the blade. It’s not necessarily better or worse, but it is a pretty different workflow with some space impact, at least for me.
?
BTW, my shop is 22’ x 32’ and my CF can use about 18’ along the table axis (total distance including infeed and outfeed) and maybe about 13’ of width. If I would have gotten the full-blown 10’ slider in a CF741 – something that a lot of
folks here recommend to be able to rip 8’ on the table, I would have lost close to 8’ worth of space in length, which in a shop that’s only 32’ on the long wall would have been a challenging sacrifice.
?
“Felder recommends way more operating clearance around the machine than I (and probably most people have). Because of that, I can’t always put my kept piece of wood to the left of the blade to
use the material stops – e.g. if I wanted to cut a 10” piece off a full sheet I would need 86” right of the blade for clearance, which I don’t have (I actually don’t have it left of the blade either”
if i understand your concern above it is not a felder machine issue rather the space you have for the machine. correct?
On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
?
I just purchased a CF531 and have now had it for a couple weeks. I replaced a 52” SawStop cabinet saw. I also previously had a A3/31 jointer/planer. The reason for my change was that I got a CNC machine with a 4’ x 8’ table and have moved
to doing my large sheet processing on the CNC router instead of the table saw. I wanted to reclaim some space.
?
I debated on the Hammer C3 and also just a saw shaper but ended up getting the CF531 for the nicer XRoll table and the tilting shaper. I got the full combo instead of just a saw shaper because the extra jointer/planer function was only
about $2K more than the saw shaper version and also provided some more table surface area.
?
I’m not very far into the machine and this is my first sliding saw, but here are a few initial thoughts:
?
- Felder recommends way more operating clearance around the machine than I (and probably most people have). Because of that, I can’t always put my kept piece of wood to the left of the
blade to use the material stops – e.g. if I wanted to cut a 10” piece off a full sheet I would need 86” right of the blade for clearance, which I don’t have (I actually don’t have it left of the blade either – I would probably do that cut with either the track
saw or the CNC router.
- The CF531 slider is perfect for 5’ x 5’ plywood sheets.
- There are some operations that are harder [for me] to do the slider way and therefore I use conventional saw techniques – ripping boards longer than 6’, or combination techniques –
using the fence to put the kept piece of wood to the right of the blade but still using the sliding table to maneuver the rest of the sheet
- The hole in the table between the saw section and the J/P section is mildly annoying to work around – if you want to set the fence at 18” you’re doing it with a tape measure rather
than the fence scale. This is a minor nuisance only.
- If you can plan your project where you do your operations in order, then the combination machine is totally functional. If you do a bunch of one-off things where you bounce between
saw and planer especially, the changeovers get annoying fast.
- There are a ton of options that take a lot of time to sort through. If you decide to order one, do your homework to figure out what you need and what the choices are. I had probably
30 hours of research and 4 hours of phone calls with my sales rep.
?
At this point, I think I’m going to keep my A3/31 J/P along with the CF531. The way my shop is laid out I will probably do most of the jointing on the CF531 and planning on the A3/31, but could swap that around depending on the needs of
the job in hand.
?
Short version – if you have a 10,000 sq ft shop and a rich benefactor, then a combo machine is not for you. If you have limited space like I have and your projects are usually on the smaller side, especially if you can plan all of your
construction steps to minimize tool changes, then the combo machine is probably fine.
?
Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK
|
|
|
If you are a hobbyist, ok, might serve you well.
but f you are a semi commercial, no.?
Shaper takes a long time to setup. and time is money.?
I have recently upgraded to a larger shaper. my slider is a 3.8m/150inch slider. my workshop is only 54m2/580ft2. but I also have a 1100mm/43in wide belt sander in the shop?
I used to own a full size combo but went separates 2-3 years ago due to increased workload.?
|
Hobbyist with kf700 in a 2.5 car garage. Shaper hood can be accurately relocated if necessary. Careful planning of workflow minimizes changeover time. Moving powerfeeder also takes some time to accomplish. For me it is not a big deal. Now that I have used the shaper a bit I would not go back to a router setup, the powerfeeder?+ shaper give amazing results. Powerfeeder also useful for some saw ripping operations and gives very smooth cuts. I would not have room for separates.
Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK
|
Mark,
What options did you choose?
PK
|
I once had a Knapp JP and Saw-Shaper in a 2 car garage. ?Moved the equipment to a larger space. ?I experienced ownership of this equipment in both shops. ?I now still have a JP, not Knapp, instead of separates, but a separate saw and shaper, and I would never want a Saw-Shaper again. ?Too much hassle with setup, at least for me. ?It is really a personal preference and priority issue as to how you want to use your space. ?For me, the shaper fits nicely next to a router table so the infeed for one is outfeed for the other. ?
I have read posts about ditching the router table and just use the shaper for everything, but not so sure that would work for me. ?Went to cut a small chamfer on smaller stock and set up the shaper with the variable angle cutter to 45 degrees, then found that the fence could not be easily setup to avoid the stock being drawn in without an aux fence, and I though, I should just do this on the router table. ?I was making the cut 60 seconds later. ?If I want to make a roundover on smaller pieces, or through dovetails with my modified Keller jig, I like the router table. ?I would love to think the router table is not needed, but at least for me, I am not there yet.
|
I had a 3 car garage shop and the only way to fit a slider big enough to process 4 by 8 sheets was to get a combo.? I moved from separates where I never
had to move anything to a combo saw/shaper where I also had to move the drum sander and planer to use them. ?I would do it again to get the sliding saw and I am a shaper guy.? The slider is that worth it.? Having said that I just moved into a large shop, I
don’t even had the wiring and duct work done, and I’ve already bought a stand alone Felder shaper so I don’t have to deal with the combo.
?
What size shop?
?
Joe Jensen
?|
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On 17-8-2020 23:26, TJ Cornish wrote:
... in a conventional table saw your kept
piece is typically against the fence and right of the blade,
where with the slider, the stop is left of the blade, meaning
if you want to avoid the math of subtracting the blade
thickness and kept portion of the wood, the kept piece needs
to be left of the blade. It’s not necessarily better or worse,
but it is a pretty different workflow with some space impact,
at least for me.
There is no need to do math with a simple and easy to make
reference stick, see my recent posts in the Bump stop thread:
/g/felderownersgroup/message/108533
/g/felderownersgroup/message/108534
Jonathan
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I’m in a basement shop(not a lot of space) and I have a KF700. For me, it would be a struggle to fit a stand ?alone shaper in addition the slider. It is a PITA to switch modes—move the big overhead saw guard out of the way, remove the blade and riving knife because they stick 1/4” above the table, lift the shaper fence onto the saw, Tilt the comatic feeder into place, sometimes take the outrigger off, and switch the DC hoses. It’s really not a big deal if you then use the shaper for a huge batch of parts. I recently did a ton of hemlock shiplap for a timberframe ceiling, and I had no problem doing all of the above for that project. I used the shaper for probably 6 hours on that run of parts. Where it becomes annoying is when you want to make two rebates in a cutting board for handles, or you are making 4 tenons. Stuff where you spend more time setting up the machine changeover and back again than you do making the parts. However, all that said I do not regret the purchase. I think saw/shapers retain less value on the used market(see above for reasons why) and I feel that I paid an aggressive price for my machine. I easily paid the same or less for the combo machine as I would have for one of the similar vintage/condition 700 series separates. If you are tight on space and budget, I’d rather have the option to annoy myself for ten mins and have a quality shaper than not have that option.?
Patrick
On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 2:45 AM Jonathan Martens < jonathan@...> wrote:
On 17-8-2020 23:26, TJ Cornish wrote:
... in a conventional table saw your kept
piece is typically against the fence and right of the blade,
where with the slider, the stop is left of the blade, meaning
if you want to avoid the math of subtracting the blade
thickness and kept portion of the wood, the kept piece needs
to be left of the blade. It’s not necessarily better or worse,
but it is a pretty different workflow with some space impact,
at least for me.
There is no need to do math with a simple and easy to make
reference stick, see my recent posts in the Bump stop thread:
/g/felderownersgroup/message/108533 /g/felderownersgroup/message/108534
Jonathan
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I have a KF700SP saw/shaper in a double car garage workshop.? Saw/shaper combo is a compromise for sure, the changeover is definitely a hassle,?I really hate it.?
I will never buy a saw/shaper combo if space is not the issue. Martin has the J/P combo, but does not sell saw/shaper combo, this tells you something.
James ??
Specifically, if you have a small footprint shop (hobbiest).
If you already have one, I would love to know if you would have chosen differently.
PK
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Yes, I have a KF700SP and think that it is a good value.? Also, I don't have a large shop, so space constrain partially forced the decision.? If I have the space, I'd definite get a dedicated shaper, probably in addition to the KF700SP.? I don't mind setting up the shaper function of the KF700SP, but it is a bit annoying to need to use it in the middle of a build and have to repeat a set up.? I predict that lifting the power feeder up and down will become more prohibitive as I get older.??
SW
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PK
Mark Foster
imran
Albert Lee
Joe Jensen
Jonathan Martens